Sailor Man's Coach: Then & Now

HVAC guy came yesterday and verified that there is refrigerant in the system. However, the system did not start up. We are getting Code 6 & 7 errors which seem the be related to communication issues not power. Working on it.. Me HVAC said that it should start up if we get the communications right.
Found out that the 3 wire communications cable was never installed and that harness is missing. We had to wire the units ourselves and the two heat pumps started up and ran great.
It was around 74° today, so we had to set the temperature down to 68°. They ran strong, cold and quietly.
The only fly in the ointment was that one of the outside compressor units had a label that said that is was 24 volts not the 48 volts we are providing. We took the units enclosure off and verified that all of the components are 48 volt.
Can you believe that someone put the wrong label on!
Calling up the hvac guy to top off the refrigerant and fine tune the system.
I can't believe how cold the air is and how quiet.
It is a dream fulfilled.
 
View attachment 18349
I am color coding each breaker and will be using harness with Anderson connectors. Each breaker capacity is identified. These are not switches. If a breaker overloads and breaks the circuit, just push down on the white dot and the breaker will reset.
I forgot to mention that those black rectangles above the white breaker buttons are actually white letter on black labels, so that each circuit can be identified. No looking up for a list somewhere.
 
Calling up the hvac guy to top off the refrigerant and fine tune the system.
I can't believe how cold the air is and how quiet.
It is a dream fulfilled.
You've anticipated this day for many years, the completion of your mini-split house + cockpit A/C system that's all DC-powered. Congrats!
 
I forgot to mention that those black rectangles above the white breaker buttons are actually white letter on black labels, so that each circuit can be identified. No looking up for a list somewhere.
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I am in the process of assigning the destination and breaker capacities all of the new 12vdc breakers in my coach.
 
I have been thinking about how to make the exterior of my coach look better.

In the 50's & 50's, the vehicle paint was much different and we were so much younger then.

We would wash our cars at least once a week and maybe use a combination compound + wax every 6 weeks or so. If we were really serious, we would first wash our car, then apply compound, wipe it off and then apply wax. If your car was looking somewhat dirty, no girl would look at you.

There was no metallic paint or clear coat. It was just elbow grease. Were there electric buffing machine then?

What makes us think that type of paint that is on our GMC Motorhomes was any different?

What wo=uld happen if I did a little test by using a very aggressive compound and then wax a small area as a test. What if the compound will remove the oxidized surface of the paint and expose the real original paint?

IMG_0493.webp
Wow!

I have done that to a small area around the tail light. This was done entirely by hand using paper towels. Certainly not the best way to go about things.

The mini-split was newly paint to match the coach about 3 years ago and has never been washed.

Same deal for the bumper cover, the new Mini split enclosures and the new supporting frame

.I am thinking that if I just inspect the coach and repaint just the areas with defects and then compound and wax the coach. This would certainly be much more coat effective.

what if I just compound the coach and get a clear wrap. My neighbor is now a commercial fisherman but for years had a business tinting. I ask him how much it would cost and how long it would last.

He said $7,000 to $8,000 and should last at least 10 years.

Something to think about.
 
I have been thinking about how to make the exterior of my coach look better.

In the 50's & 50's, the vehicle paint was much different and we were so much younger then.

We would wash our cars at least once a week and maybe use a combination compound + wax every 6 weeks or so. If we were really serious, we would first wash our car, then apply compound, wipe it off and then apply wax. If your car was looking somewhat dirty, no girl would look at you.

There was no metallic paint or clear coat. It was just elbow grease. Were there electric buffing machine then?

What makes us think that type of paint that is on our GMC Motorhomes was any different?

What wo=uld happen if I did a little test by using a very aggressive compound and then wax a small area as a test. What if the compound will remove the oxidized surface of the paint and expose the real original paint?

View attachment 18399
Wow!

I have done that to a small area around the tail light. This was done entirely by hand using paper towels. Certainly not the best way to go about things.

The mini-split was newly paint to match the coach about 3 years ago and has never been washed.

Same deal for the bumper cover, the new Mini split enclosures and the new supporting frame

.I am thinking that if I just inspect the coach and repaint just the areas with defects and then compound and wax the coach. This would certainly be much more coat effective.

what if I just compound the coach and get a clear wrap. My neighbor is now a commercial fisherman but for years had a business tinting. I ask him how much it would cost and how long it would last.

He said $7,000 to $8,000 and should last at least 10 years.

Something to think about.
I've seen GMCs with the original Imron paint that had been buffed out and looked like a brand new paint job. The original Imron formulation was as good as paint gets, pretty much bulletproof.

As instructions always caution, start in a concealed spot. 😉