Drinking the Koolaide... 😊

[Tybalt39]

Rant warning!....

I posted last year about my new rooftop heat-pump. It works well and is quiet!

But...

I purchased it on Amazon (best pricing). It is supplied to Amazon by the manufacturer in two separate boxes; one labeled "Inside Unit", the other labeled "Outside Unit". Amazon only has one SKU for the entire system, and that SKU indicates only one box for the heat-pump in their inventory system. I received the outside (compressor) unit, but not the inside (air handler) unit. When I called about this error, I was told there was no error and that I had the entire system.... As no other solution was forthcoming, I accepted the option of re-shipping the order to see what I would get (perhaps a full system this time?).

Upon receiving the second "system", I saw I had received only the Inside unit (air handler) this time. Good enough; I had a complete system . Except, Amazon was under the impression they had now shipped two systems and wanted one of them back. Many phone calls later (starting late November and going through mid-January), after submitting multiple photos of the boxes and shipping labels, plus a letter from the manufacturer indicating there are two boxes per system, I was told there was nothing Amazon could do for me; I had to send something back or pay for a second heat-pump. By that point the system was installed on the coach and working great.

I finally had to contact my bank to dispute the charges when they appeared on my card New Years Day. Fast forward to yesterday, I received notification from my bank that my "temporary" credit for the second unit was now permanent and that I had won my dispute with Amazon. Still, Amazon keeps emailing me for a card number so they can charge me for that second unit (I cancelled Prime and removed all forms of payment from my account).

So, I have the new heat-pump functioning, and I paid what it cost (only once). But, I may never be able to purchase on Amazon again unless I use someone else's account/Prime and provide my CC info for that transaction.

Looking at reviews for this system on Amazon, I'm not the only person who didn't receive a complete system. I don't know how others handled it (probably sent it back and moved on), but I don't recommend purchasing this system on Amazon. If you are fortunate, you may be able to convince another vendor to price-match.

End rant....

 

[pvfjr]

Yikes, what a mess. It's really too bad when they can't either:
1. Get their act together
2. Actually listen to the customer and accept that they screwed up

 

[Tybalt39]

Yikes, what a mess. It's really too bad when they can't either:
1. Get their act together
2. Actually listen to the customer and accept that they screwed up

Especially when I designed a system for Amazon to correct fulfillment issues (incomplete or incorrect shipments) some years back. I drove to Seattle to install it in their R&D lab for testing.

They went a different direction, but I wonder if....

 

[LQQKatJon]

Rant warning!....

I posted last year about my new rooftop heat-pump. It works well and is quiet!

But...

I purchased it on Amazon (best pricing). It is supplied to Amazon by the manufacturer in two separate boxes; one labeled "Inside Unit", the other labeled "Outside Unit". Amazon only has one SKU for the entire system, and that SKU indicates only one box for the heat-pump in their inventory system. I received the outside (compressor) unit, but not the inside (air handler) unit. When I called about this error, I was told there was no error and that I had the entire system.... As no other solution was forthcoming, I accepted the option of re-shipping the order to see what I would get (perhaps a full system this time?).

Upon receiving the second "system", I saw I had received only the Inside unit (air handler) this time. Good enough; I had a complete system . Except, Amazon was under the impression they had now shipped two systems and wanted one of them back. Many phone calls later (starting late November and going through mid-January), after submitting multiple photos of the boxes and shipping labels, plus a letter from the manufacturer indicating there are two boxes per system, I was told there was nothing Amazon could do for me; I had to send something back or pay for a second heat-pump. By that point the system was installed on the coach and working great.

I finally had to contact my bank to dispute the charges when they appeared on my card New Years Day. Fast forward to yesterday, I received notification from my bank that my "temporary" credit for the second unit was now permanent and that I had won my dispute with Amazon. Still, Amazon keeps emailing me for a card number so they can charge me for that second unit (I cancelled Prime and removed all forms of payment from my account).

So, I have the new heat-pump functioning, and I paid what it cost (only once). But, I may never be able to purchase on Amazon again unless I use someone else's account/Prime and provide my CC info for that transaction.

Looking at reviews for this system on Amazon, I'm not the only person who didn't receive a complete system. I don't know how others handled it (probably sent it back and moved on), but I don't recommend purchasing this system on Amazon. If you are fortunate, you may be able to convince another vendor to price-match.

End rant....

Interesting…. Thanks for warning.

I have had the opposite usually. Have ended up with two items in past and not charged for two. Complained it had been delivered and never was. “Left at front desk” in the delivery comments. (No front desk at my house).


I do know that almost every rooftop air system is two pieces. The top unit is normally the same. The interior side is either a direct vent/non-ducted(what we need). Or they have the ducted version for campers what have a duct system.

 

[Tybalt39]

New purchase...

Ultrasonic obstacle warning system for the bumpers. Four sensors per bumper (front & rear), with a display on the dash to indicate the area of proximity and the distance to the obstacle. I chose the through-the-bumper version (drill holes in the bumper). These have come down in price in the last year or so; $33!

 

[pvfjr]

New purchase...

Ultrasonic obstacle warning system for the bumpers. Four sensors per bumper (front & rear), with a display on the dash to indicate the area of proximity and the distance to the obstacle. I chose the through-the-bumper version (drill holes in the bumper). These have come down in price in the last year or so; $33!

Got any pics or a link?

 

[Tybalt39]

Got any pics or a link?

Link And yes, I received what is pictured. Shipped from California.

 

[Tybalt39]

Out of curiosity, Anyone know when the graphics may have been added to this coach? Multiple persons have indicated they are aware of this coach, so I'm hoping someone can tell me when they first were aware of it. I have a list of owners since 1995, so I'd like to find who added the graphics.

While my goal is to repaint and replace the graphics, I want to keep a reminder of the existing graphics. I have found various sites offering merchandise with this graphic, but it seems to be a poor copy; like they copied it from another source and lost some of the detail. A coupe of years back I found a T-shirt listing with the original graphic in detail, but I can't find it anymore. The graphics I find now have lost much of the shading and resolution (highlights become "blobby"). I've tried reaching out to the sellers to see if they can point me to the original artist, but there are no links to contact the current "artists".



Creating spare tire cover

 

[Tybalt39]

EFI...
Looking for input from those who have gone this path...
(Yes, these posts are often just to help me organize my thoughts....)

ECM Options
GM Stock
Works (if a .bin file for this engine is installed) but is difficult/tedious to fine-tune.

EBL
This ECM modification is not currently an option (someone has indicated they are in contact with the estate and hope to acquire the rights to the product for future sales...)

MegaSquirt
Does what the EBL did, plus there are modules from Dakota Digital to interface that ECM with their digital gauge cluster.

Other
Options vary by manufacturer

Throttle-Body Options
4-Barrel bodies

• Spread-bore (GM/Rochester)
  • Matches stock intake manifold; no modifications needed.
    • There is no Rochester-made 4-barrel EFI throttle-body
• Square-bore (Holley, etc)
  • Needs adapter plate when used with stock manifold.

2-Barrel bodies (GM/Rochester, Holley, etc.)
Needs adapter plate. Bores may need to be enlarged and injectors may need to be replaced for adequate flow (need 80-100pph)

So far, I seem to be looking at either a

• Rochester 454/7.4 throttle-body with 80-90pph injectors with a stock (doubtful) ECM or a MegaSquirt ECM (DIY)
• smaller Rochester throttle-body bored larger with large injectors (Affordable EFI option) with custom ECM (full kit)
• Holley Sniper system (complete kit)

The majority appear to be in favor of the GM 454 solution with EBL. Understandable and my original preference as well for all of the standard reasons (availability of parts/service, etc.). It does require an adapter and may involve modifying the air-intake/cleaner assembly. But, with the future of the EBL in limbo at the moment, the MegaSquirt seems to be the next option. It also makes changing to a Dakota Digital instrument cluster much easier as there is an interface module available to simplify installation (don't need redundant sensors and their wires). However...

The sniper is very interesting. As Jim Hupy indicated, it simply bolts on with no adapter (already spread-bore) and utilizes the stock bore sizes. It fits the stock air-cleaner without modifying the hatch cover. It is self-learning (more convenient than even the EBL); just enter your drive-train parameters and let it self-calibrate while the engine runs. Installation is more convenient. It also has an interface module available for the Dakota Digital instrument cluster. The drawbacks are known; if it dies you may have a wait because it has to be sent in for repair/replacement. Not good if you are broken-down on the road.

I spoke with Affordable today. They use the small Rochester, bore it out, upgrade the injectors, and include an adapter. They offer a CCS option with their ECM (so it must not be the stock GM ECM). They are aware of the EBL situation. They indicated they have something in the works; a learning ECM. It is currently having a harness built for a Ford engine. Once testing is completed it will be offered for other engines. No time frame yet (I tried...).

So, do I try to find a good 454 Rochester TB, then DIY a system around MegaSquirt? Use a smaller modified Rochester from Affordable and upgrade to their learning ECM when it becomes available? Or go the Sniper route? I DO want to install a Dakota Digital instrument cluster with analog gauges and TFT displays for various vehicle functions (HDX series).

I await thoughts from the hive-mind....

I'd also like to hear how Jim H. made out with his proposed Sniper system.

 

[sailor man]

Anyone have a good dimensional drawing of the roof of a 26ft? I found this on GMCMI.
View attachment 12237
If I did the math correctly, there should be 21.35" between the front cap seam and the front fan opening, 30.05" between the front fan opening and the front A/C opening, and 102.25" from the A/C opening to the rear fan or A/C opening. I'm trying to find the surface width of the roof from drip-rail to drip-rail (91.84"? 85.5"?).

The Gree A/C unit has the dimensions below (flip it to align it properly to the roof drawing). This should result in a space of 78.25" between the rear of the housing and the leading edge of the rear fan opening.
View attachment 12238

I hope to place flexible solar panels on the roof, following the curve of the roof. The panels have the following dimensions (both sizes have the same electrical ratings):
Short 42.5" x 26"
Long 82.2" x 13.7"

It looks like I can place one short and two long in a "horseshoe" shape in front of the A/C unit. Then, I just have to determine how much space I have to maneuver around the vent pipes between the rear of the A/C and the rear fan (3 short + 2 long?).

This all assumes I have at least 83" of width on the roof.

Update:

Apparently I have 81.4"
View attachment 12291

This is the solar array on my 26 foot coach. I also have the base drawing.
My rig with the toad.
This is a (15) panel SunPower semi flexible solar system applied directly to the roof with zero framing. Check out how to install this on https://www.gmcmotorhome.org/thread...-batteries-and-sailor-mans-lifepo4-build.982/
I have the drawings on my cadd system, including elevations, floor plans, sections, elevations, etc. You can copy any of my drawings on the thread.

 

[Tybalt39]

Around 3PM on a partially cloudy day in the Pacific Northwest (after peak solar hours), 250W out of a maximum of 300W on my test system. Even partially (25%-50%) blocking a panel didn't shut that panel down; just decreased the output by about the same percentage. CIGS panels ROCK!

 

[tmsnyder]

EFI...
Looking for input from those who have gone this path...
(Yes, these posts are often just to help me organize my thoughts....)

ECM Options
GM Stock
Works (if a .bin file for this engine is installed) but is difficult/tedious to fine-tune.

EBL
This ECM modification is not currently an option (someone has indicated they are in contact with the estate and hope to acquire the rights to the product for future sales...)

MegaSquirt
Does what the EBL did, plus there are modules from Dakota Digital to interface that ECM with their digital gauge cluster.

Other
Options vary by manufacturer

Throttle-Body Options
4-Barrel bodies

• Spread-bore (GM/Rochester)
  • Matches stock intake manifold; no modifications needed.
    • There is no Rochester-made 4-barrel EFI throttle-body
• Square-bore (Holley, etc)
  • Needs adapter plate when used with stock manifold.

2-Barrel bodies (GM/Rochester, Holley, etc.)
Needs adapter plate. Bores may need to be enlarged and injectors may need to be replaced for adequate flow (need 80-100pph)

So far, I seem to be looking at either a

• Rochester 454/7.4 throttle-body with 80-90pph injectors with a stock (doubtful) ECM or a MegaSquirt ECM (DIY)
• smaller Rochester throttle-body bored larger with large injectors (Affordable EFI option) with custom ECM (full kit)
• Holley Sniper system (complete kit)

The majority appear to be in favor of the GM 454 solution with EBL. Understandable and my original preference as well for all of the standard reasons (availability of parts/service, etc.). It does require an adapter and may involve modifying the air-intake/cleaner assembly. But, with the future of the EBL in limbo at the moment, the MegaSquirt seems to be the next option. It also makes changing to a Dakota Digital instrument cluster much easier as there is an interface module available to simplify installation (don't need redundant sensors and their wires). However...

The sniper is very interesting. As Jim Hupy indicated, it simply bolts on with no adapter (already spread-bore) and utilizes the stock bore sizes. It fits the stock air-cleaner without modifying the hatch cover. It is self-learning (more convenient than even the EBL); just enter your drive-train parameters and let it self-calibrate while the engine runs. Installation is more convenient. It also has an interface module available for the Dakota Digital instrument cluster. The drawbacks are known; if it dies you may have a wait because it has to be sent in for repair/replacement. Not good if you are broken-down on the road.

I spoke with Affordable today. They use the small Rochester, bore it out, upgrade the injectors, and include an adapter. They offer a CCS option with their ECM (so it must not be the stock GM ECM). They are aware of the EBL situation. They indicated they have something in the works; a learning ECM. It is currently having a harness built for a Ford engine. Once testing is completed it will be offered for other engines. No time frame yet (I tried...).

So, do I try to find a good 454 Rochester TB, then DIY a system around MegaSquirt? Use a smaller modified Rochester from Affordable and upgrade to their learning ECM when it becomes available? Or go the Sniper route? I DO want to install a Dakota Digital instrument cluster with analog gauges and TFT displays for various vehicle functions (HDX series).

I await thoughts from the hive-mind....

I'd also like to hear how Jim H. made out with his proposed Sniper system.

I plan to install a 90s Chevy 454 TBI system using an adapter plate. And use the Chevy ECU for a little while, but may switch over to MegaSquirt as the ECU.

There is also Speeduino, but that is even more DIY than MS. Microsquirt could handle the task as well.

I do not like the idea of the electronics over the engine, built into the throttle body.

 

[Tybalt39]

Heat is a concern. If I decide to go the Sniper route I would want to find failure rates and what percentage of their units come back due to heat related issues.

I can find Dakota Digital interfaces for the MegaSquirt, I don't find any for the MicroSquirt. And since I eventually want to have a Dakota Digital dashboard, that is a consideration.

 

[Tybalt39]

There is a sale on BougeRV Yuma CIGS panels, plus additional discounts at various price points. I just pulled the trigger on 6 more panels to fill the roof (total of 9 panels). With new tariffs announced today for imported solar cells, I just couldn't risk a massive increase to my costs if I waited. Now to get that roof squeaky clean!

 

[mech0001]

EFI...
Looking for input from those who have gone this path...
(Yes, these posts are often just to help me organize my thoughts....)

ECM Options
GM Stock
Works (if a .bin file for this engine is installed) but is difficult/tedious to fine-tune.

EBL
This ECM modification is not currently an option (someone has indicated they are in contact with the estate and hope to acquire the rights to the product for future sales...)

MegaSquirt
Does what the EBL did, plus there are modules from Dakota Digital to interface that ECM with their digital gauge cluster.

Other
Options vary by manufacturer

Throttle-Body Options
4-Barrel bodies

• Spread-bore (GM/Rochester)
  • Matches stock intake manifold; no modifications needed.
    • There is no Rochester-made 4-barrel EFI throttle-body
• Square-bore (Holley, etc)
  • Needs adapter plate when used with stock manifold.

2-Barrel bodies (GM/Rochester, Holley, etc.)
Needs adapter plate. Bores may need to be enlarged and injectors may need to be replaced for adequate flow (need 80-100pph)

So far, I seem to be looking at either a

• Rochester 454/7.4 throttle-body with 80-90pph injectors with a stock (doubtful) ECM or a MegaSquirt ECM (DIY)
• smaller Rochester throttle-body bored larger with large injectors (Affordable EFI option) with custom ECM (full kit)
• Holley Sniper system (complete kit)

The majority appear to be in favor of the GM 454 solution with EBL. Understandable and my original preference as well for all of the standard reasons (availability of parts/service, etc.). It does require an adapter and may involve modifying the air-intake/cleaner assembly. But, with the future of the EBL in limbo at the moment, the MegaSquirt seems to be the next option. It also makes changing to a Dakota Digital instrument cluster much easier as there is an interface module available to simplify installation (don't need redundant sensors and their wires). However...

The sniper is very interesting. As Jim Hupy indicated, it simply bolts on with no adapter (already spread-bore) and utilizes the stock bore sizes. It fits the stock air-cleaner without modifying the hatch cover. It is self-learning (more convenient than even the EBL); just enter your drive-train parameters and let it self-calibrate while the engine runs. Installation is more convenient. It also has an interface module available for the Dakota Digital instrument cluster. The drawbacks are known; if it dies you may have a wait because it has to be sent in for repair/replacement. Not good if you are broken-down on the road.

I spoke with Affordable today. They use the small Rochester, bore it out, upgrade the injectors, and include an adapter. They offer a CCS option with their ECM (so it must not be the stock GM ECM). They are aware of the EBL situation. They indicated they have something in the works; a learning ECM. It is currently having a harness built for a Ford engine. Once testing is completed it will be offered for other engines. No time frame yet (I tried...).

So, do I try to find a good 454 Rochester TB, then DIY a system around MegaSquirt? Use a smaller modified Rochester from Affordable and upgrade to their learning ECM when it becomes available? Or go the Sniper route? I DO want to install a Dakota Digital instrument cluster with analog gauges and TFT displays for various vehicle functions (HDX series).

I await thoughts from the hive-mind....

I'd also like to hear how Jim H. made out with his proposed Sniper system.

I inherited a coach with the first gen FiTech system. No issues with that since I've owned it. The newer models have a divorced controller (away from the heat) and (as I recall) the ability to also control timing. Mine is a square bore so there is an adapter. Still able to get the stock air cleaner on, though. Might be worth looking into.

 

[Tybalt39]

Roof cleared of everything except center heat-pump, front and rear fans, vent stacks, bathroom vent, and clearance lights. You can see the original yellow where the rear AC used to be. Ready to install flexible CIGS panels.


Installation started! The panels mold to the curve of the roof close to the drip-rail. The cable will enter at the bathroom vent (no fridge vent in this coach). The MPPT controller is intended to mount in the vacuum closet (inside wall) and the batterie(s) go in the cubby below the fridge behind that wall. We will see if that plan survives the installation process.

 

[Tybalt39]

Mostly done with panel attachment. One more to go; center of roof behind the AC.
Here is the way I tetris'd BougeRV Yuma panels (and how I could have simplified it if I had only known)...

A combination of long and short 100W panels (purchased when I had a different idea of how to arrange them). Dimensions are "rough", but you get the idea.



UPDATE:
Added three 55W panels to fill in the gaps. Left space for a standard Gen 4 Starlink antenna in front of the rear vent (east/west orientation). Someday I'll clean-up that wiring.....

1065W

If anyone tries this, I could have fit additional 55W panels if I had used only short 100W panels. And it could have looked much better with a bit of spacing....

1130W! (I mislabeled the small panels as 65W).

 

[tmsnyder]

Mostly done with panel attachment. One more to go; center of roof behind the AC.
Here is the way I tetrised BougeRV Yuma panels (and how I could have simplified it if I had only known)...

A combination of long and short 100W panels (purchased when I had a different idea of how to arrange them). Dimensions are "rough", but you get the idea.
View attachment 14934

How I could have arranged them using all the same size panels...
View attachment 14935

I just couldn't figure a way to get a 10th panel up there....

I'll add a drone shot showing the actual panels later.

Now to wire them and route/secure the cables.

I'd love to see some production data once they are up and running.

 

[Tybalt39]

While data would be nice, I'm "lazy"...
If I make enough power to charge two 280Ah batteries within the "solar window" to run my fridge and freezer, two ceiling vent fans, interior LED lighting, plus the occasional use of microwave and induction cook-top, I'll be happy.

With everything operating at "peak" (it never will), it would take 8 hours to fully charge a depleted battery bank. I don't drain one batteries more than 50% in a long weekend of boondocking, so I should never have a dead battery bank with two batteries. 4-5 hours of good sun should suffice. If not, I have the Onan and a 70A "buzzbox" set to LiFePo.

Once everything is connected (I've tested the panels on one battery before installation), and a second battery is procured (after trying the system with only one battery for a few months), I'll try my luck with a 4K inverter and the AC.

Very much "by the seat of my pants" system design. Fill the roof, add batteries, and hope....

That said, I've "glamped" in tents for a decade using smaller battery banks and less solar, but the same amount of equipment (except for the AC), so I'm not just guessing and hoping. I used the coach with the listed appliances last year using one battery and two 300W solar "blankets" with no issues.

Anecdotally, as a test, one year I used two EcoFlow Delta 1300 battery banks to run a 40L fridge, a 15L freezer, a 600W microwave, an ice-maker, plus keeping various 12v fans and chargers operating. I charged all of this using those two 300W folding solar "blankets" mentioned above. I had a very comfortable weekend living off of frozen/refrigerated boxed meals and snacks, popcorn, blended drinks, etc. Successful test! (Stuffed potato skins and margaritas at 3AM in the woods is what I call "comfortable camping". )

 

[Kendra]

"Follow Your Dreams, Sunshine!"