1973 GMC 26' Glacier Build

Being I shot the ends with Raptor I decided to use 1/8 Plywood sprayed with Raptor instead of FRP panels. My thinking was it would match better and would allow me to "snap" the panels into place, they are also very light.
 

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Being I shot the ends with Raptor I decided to use 1/8 Plywood sprayed with Raptor instead of FRP panels. My thinking was it would match better and would allow me to "snap" the panels into place, they are also very light.
Scott this looks really good, I might do the same someday. I know 1/8" lauan doesn't do well with water leaks, but I'd rather replace a ceiling panel instead of the floor.
 
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Ah - now I understand the Raptor (bed liner spray) on 1/8" wood panels - to protect upper side from moisture.
Unfortunately with the high cost of Raptor I painted the top side and Raptor on the bottom or interior side, I thought about the sheets Larry suggested, a friend of mine at a sign shop suggested that material also, in the end I just decided to go with wood.
 

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Ceiling panels up, as stated before the panels snap into place therefore instead of using "H" channel between the panels I used 1/8" aluminum flat stock.
 

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Some of you might be interested in these pictures of bunk mounting hooks, mine did not have a bunk bed couch but I was lucky enough to buy one and then took the measurements from a burn out coach.
 

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The aluminum strips I purchased had to be "brushed", if you ever bought raw aluminum it needs some love to look nice. I have never brushed aluminum before and it does take some work, first you need to make a jig (fence,rail) to run your sanding block along, you need to drag a block with sandpaper in one direction multiple, multiple, multiple and multiple times to remove discoloration and nics. After the pieces were brushed and holes drilled they were clear coated to preserve look.
 

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I think I mentioned before that I changed the wheel wells, propane and generator enclosures to late model fiberglass units, I also took some of that foam and made a surround for the generator enclosure. I decided to use Unistrut for the bed frame that way if I need to make a change I can just unbolt and remove, the center section of plywood is hinged with a piano hinge and the outer pieces are loose so they can be lifted or removed.
 

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The unistrut is a good idea. I did mine with poplar before I had access to a metal shop. I made the center a hinged panel with removable cross braces so you can raise the mattress and access all the center area under the bed (where I have the water pump, a "whole house" Dyson canister vacuum, and storage). I raised my bed a little higher than where the original fold downs were set, with the intention of increasing my genny bay height by 3 inches to accommodate a portable Westinghouse genny (so I can take it in and out of the coach).
 
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Yep access to pump, tank and plumbing. I just made prop and it works well, still works after cabinet and bath install. I had some work to do on the cabinet before it went in.
 

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The mattress in the prior post is a 12" Cool Gel and is just too tall for our set up, we are going to do an 8" or maybe even a 6", we are not going to try and ship the 12" back so it is available if anybody is interested let me know. It is a "Full" size.

Let me know if anybody is using a 6" and happy with it, leaning more towards an 8", 12" is just to high, we have to use a stool to get in and out, lol. The 12" is also even with the bottom of our windows.
 
I made the same mistake. I bought a 10", but also raised my platform to accommodate a larger genny in the exterior compartment. My mattress is way too thick; the top is too close to the windows. With these dense foam mattresses and memory foam, 6-8" is plenty. I sleep on a 6" mattress at home.
 
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Our 8" mattress puts us 29" off of the floor, and about as high as I would want it to be. Same mattress as we have at home. Formerly had a 6" mattress in the coach but found ourselves bottoming out on the plywood base under it, so went to the 8". Sometimes I feel like we sleep better in the coach than we do at home. JWIT
 
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Larry, was that 6" a memory foam? I would like to take it down to that 29" you stated but that would mean a 6" instead of an 8" Currently by bed platform is 23" from floor, 12" mattress top is 35" from floor.
 
Larry, was that 6" a memory foam? I would like to take it down to that 29" you stated but that would mean a 6" instead of an 8" Currently by bed platform is 23" from floor, 12" mattress top is 35" from floor.
Scott, the 6" was not a memory foam type mattress. Can't think of a word to describe the type of foam. It was typical of the foams we use to see in the 90's before the Memory came out. It was comfortable until age (and our waist line) got our buts bumping the plywood base under it. When I built the support under the bed, I built it to only a couple of inches higher than the water tank on the passenger side and the Onan on the driver side. I put the base under the mattress at 21" off of the floor. The math says that the 8" mattress should be at 30" but the tape measure says 29".
 
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Scott, the 6" was not a memory foam type mattress. Can't think of a word to describe the type of foam. It was typical of the foams we use to see in the 90's before the Memory came out. It was comfortable until age (and our waist line) got our buts bumping the plywood base under it. When I built the support under the bed, I built it to only a couple of inches higher than the water tank on the passenger side and the Onan on the driver side. I put the base under the mattress at 21" off of the floor. The math says that the 8" mattress should be at 30" but the tape measure says 29".
Thanks for the info, I think the newer memory foam is firmer than the old foam, I will think about a 6" but sounds like 8" would be the safe bet.
 
The closet module is the only stock piece I am using, I actually picked this unit up from Cinnabar, it was a decent piece but it did need some love, replaced the shelf panels, the back panel and a new cabinet base, did not take many pictures.
 

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