So what did you do to your GMC today?

Replaced the high blower relay with a Standard Motor Products RY12 and it's three terminal pigtail.
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My coach finally arrived from Cliff Golby late Wednesday night and I was finally able to get this setup together for the first time. I had the (2) YMGI Mini-splits, custom ac mounting frame, wheel cover and Thule box painted to match the coach. The Thule is not yet quire leveled. There is a through the bumper hitch which is supposed to have a 15,000 lb rating. This setup reduces it to 7,500 lb. When I tow the toad, the Thule is moved to the rear of the toad. The Thule is rated for 350 lb. IMG_2501.webp
Note that there is nothing on the roof. The storage box and the heat pumps are completely out of the air steam.
The normal lpg compartment does not have a tank. There is an additional compartment behind the front wheel for the lpg tank freeing the old compartment for storage.
I am now ready for the solar panel installation.
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License plate not on the Thule yet. I've got to fashion a plate to cover the "Thule" and put the GMC logo on it.
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The spare tire is made by Roadmaster. The vertical mount post actually telescopes to provide leverage to swing the tire to the ground on either side.
Remove the cover and rotate the tire to the ground. Unbolt the tire and roll it to where it will replace the flat tire. roll the flat tire to the mount and bolt it. Then rotate the mount to the vertical position.
No tire lifting!
There is plenty of free air for the heat pumps. The storage box can rotate backwards about 30° to provide more access to the tire.
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It can hold 350 lb. Looks a bit like a Pacman.
 
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Reworking my heads; added valve rotators, new springs, lapping the valves.

Need to get it back together in the next two weeks to drive to GMCMI convention in NC!
 
View attachment 14544
My coach finally arrived from Cliff Golby late Wednesday night and I was finally able to get this setup together for the first time. I had the (2) YMGI Mini-splits, custom ac mounting frame, wheel cover and Thule box painted to match the coach. The Thule is not yet quire leveled. There is a through the bumper hitch which is supposed to have a 15,000 lb rating. This setup reduces it to 7,500 lb. When I tow the toad, the Thule is moved to the rear of the toad. The Thule is rated for 350 lb. View attachment 14545
Note that there is nothing on the roof. The storage box and the heat pumps are completely out of the air steam.
The normal lpg compartment does not have a tank. There is an additional compartment behind the front wheel for the lpg tank freeing the old compartment for storage.
I am now ready for the solar panel installation.
View attachment 14546
View attachment 14547View attachment 14548
License plate not on the Thule yet. I've got to fashion a plate to cover the "Thule" and put the GMC logo on it.
View attachment 14550
The spare tire is made by Roadmaster. The vertical mount post actually telescopes to provide leverage to swing the tire to the ground on either side.
Remove the cover and rotate the tire to the ground. Unbolt the tire and roll it to where it will replace the flat tire. roll the flat tire to the mount and bolt it. Then rotate the mount to the vertical position.
No tire lifting!
There is plenty of free air for the heat pumps. The storage box can rotate backwards about 30° to provide more access to the tire.
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This is the water tank that I plan to carve out (2) enclosures for the mini-splits. I think that it make the installation look even sleeker. It will extend the belt line.
You can see the tank in the background over the Thule in the top photo in #81.
 
I changed the oil last Monday. The drain plug has been acting funny with kinda hanging up when taking it out. Finally stripped the threads in the pan. Went to NAPA and got a 1/2" oversized drain plug. I measured the old plug and the new "oversize" plug and found it to be .025 larger in diameter. It is also tapered thread at the end with thread cutting ribs. Cleaned out the few scraps that were still in the pan drain hole and with considerable pressure got the new thread cutting plug started. Then 1/2 turn at a time, backing out each 1/2 turn and cleaning the plug, got it cut in all of the way. So far all is well with no leaks. To my relief, that "oversized" plug works. JWID

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Autograde-090-031CD-Oversize-D/dp/B07QSWTMDN/ref=sr_1_6?crid=19RDP4WVJW6K2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Fxlmvpwc-SQmcLnDiZjdjV3zvFzmuVLRYcpK-qVfzGj90c8ZvLvV4UIbxSsibY07sd9avKw4RmfBOPdI2il0uLy_mqxpMsQXIAUecLE5UdHVav1hk4WmkHxzR8jhgb8vu7AUzR5ZqRuEgImDvOcOmOJbTAHEuBOIZS0tTHekF1lv-1Rf_l9yrx2mlyabpywTwA2B2g_1G538S6zowklpYVNYpGGWeWRePJUHgb7l5wg.xnAan58FCi0hKdpVHXFv4REeubNHSVb8A5sGwkG81kA&dib_tag=se&keywords=oversized+drain+plug+for+oil+pan+1/2-20&qid=1743857258&sprefix=1/2"+oversized+drain+plug+for+oil+pan,aps,499&sr=8-6
 
I changed the oil last Monday. The drain plug has been acting funny with kinda hanging up when taking it out. Finally stripped the threads in the pan. Went to NAPA and got a 1/2" oversized drain plug. I measured the old plug and the new "oversize" plug and found it to be .025 larger in diameter. It is also tapered thread at the end with thread cutting ribs. Cleaned out the few scraps that were still in the pan drain hole and with considerable pressure got the new thread cutting plug started. Then 1/2 turn at a time, backing out each 1/2 turn and cleaning the plug, got it cut in all of the way. So far all is well with no leaks. To my relief, that "oversized" plug works. JWID

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Autograde-090-031CD-Oversize-D/dp/B07QSWTMDN/ref=sr_1_6?crid=19RDP4WVJW6K2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Fxlmvpwc-SQmcLnDiZjdjV3zvFzmuVLRYcpK-qVfzGj90c8ZvLvV4UIbxSsibY07sd9avKw4RmfBOPdI2il0uLy_mqxpMsQXIAUecLE5UdHVav1hk4WmkHxzR8jhgb8vu7AUzR5ZqRuEgImDvOcOmOJbTAHEuBOIZS0tTHekF1lv-1Rf_l9yrx2mlyabpywTwA2B2g_1G538S6zowklpYVNYpGGWeWRePJUHgb7l5wg.xnAan58FCi0hKdpVHXFv4REeubNHSVb8A5sGwkG81kA&dib_tag=se&keywords=oversized+drain+plug+for+oil+pan+1/2-20&qid=1743857258&sprefix=1/2"+oversized+drain+plug+for+oil+pan,aps,499&sr=8-6
Good to know that's an option for when the goofball at the instant oil change place tries to put your bung back in with an impact gun
 
We just completed the first portion of a cross country trip from Tucson, AZ to Northern Lebanon County, Pennsylvania, 3200 miles. The only problem was an overcharging alternator that I swapped out in a campground in Florida.

We will be staying here in PA for about 2-1/2 weeks where I will change the oil, and give the coach a good bath (the island campgrounds in Florida and South Carolina are REALLY dirty, under the trees). Then we will head back home via a different route.

The trip started with a Saguaro Jetset rally in Southeastern AZ, several days to get across Texas, a stop in Daphne Alabama at Bill and Midge Kittredges place, where we enjoyed some first class southern hospitality, and an excellent red beans and rice meal courtesy of Midge, (who is a GREAT cook).

On across the Florida Panhandle where we picked up friends, Bruce an Sally, then three days at Amelia Island State Park, up to Savannah (four days) and then to Charleston, SC (3 days). Kathy then took Bruce and Sally to the airport to fly back to PA and we continued on.

Back on our own again, we stopped in Moorsville NC where we met a distant relative of mine, found by Kathy's genealogical research, then up to Mt Airy NC AKA Mayberry. Ate at the Snappy Lunch and checked out the Andy Griffith attractions, including the museum etc.

Next stop was in Middletown VA where we had the pleasure of meeting with Jared and Stefanie Kohl and their farmer neighbor, Levi for Dinner and a nice visit at the Wayside Inn, where we spent the night in the parking lot (they are a Harvest Home Location).

We arrived in Pennsylvania where we parked the coach at one of Kathy's aunt's farms, near Hamlin, then loaded up stuff to temporarily move in with Kathy's Sister Bonnie. A couple of weeks here, and we will be back on the road.
 
Played Tetris on the roof with solar panels.
With the roof-rails gone and only one AC unit (plus a rear fan), I can fit 900 watts of CIGS panels (I have 300W, just need to order more). If I could find a solution to moving the bathroom vent, I could get 1000 Watts. I had to remove the TV antenna and the radio antenna, but if I need radio I would install a shark-fin or short stub closer to the front windows anyway.

Fixed rough up-shifting issue. The vacuum hose "elbow" from the modulator was loose (the installer didn't use clamps 🤣). Removed some cracked material from one end and added clamps. Shifts smooth again!
 
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Got the wheels on. Installed new rear air bags. Fixed some air leaks on temp air fittings. Set ride height at 33 inches. Drove to alighnment. Set caster at 2.5, camber at 0 and toe at 0. Washed some crud off.
 

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Put my dash back together, using the new Telltale LED board so I can test it on the way to GMCMI starting Saturday :cool:
De-Winterized the water system, changed the oil ( sample sent to Blackstone for analysis ), topped off the antifreeze
 
I got my stove exhaust vent fan and lights working and re-installed. Somehow I lost one of the knurled nuts that goes around the switches and holds the faceplate up. Had it in my hand, ready to spin on, and dropped it. Can't find it anywhere. And this is inside the rig. Now how is that possible?
 
Just a simple oil change; WIX 51258 & 6qt of Shell Rotella T4 15w-40. Went very smooth.

There is a small oil leak and a small coolant leak I can see so need to track these down. Oil is coming off the block somewhere, coolant is dripping off the lower crossmember.
 
Oil is coming off the block somewhere, coolant is dripping off the lower crossmember.
Mine seeps a bit of oil at the oil pressure sensor between the intake manifold and the water pump. There is only one position the sensor can sit in, so I'm not brave enough to try to get one more turn on it without breaking it.

Check all your coolant hose clamps. There is also a weep hole in the water pump where coolant leaks if the seal is letting go.
 
I got my stove exhaust vent fan and lights working and re-installed. Somehow I lost one of the knurled nuts that goes around the switches and holds the faceplate up. Had it in my hand, ready to spin on, and dropped it. Can't find it anywhere. And this is inside the rig. Now how is that possible?
Well, I finally found that missing knurled nut that holds up on the stove exhaust/lite panel. I'm in my car, and I pull out my some change from my pocket, and out drops the nut. Somehow this nut must have fallen into my pocket. The pants were then laundered. And two days later, out it pops! ??????
 
Well, I finally found that missing knurled nut that holds up on the stove exhaust/lite panel. I'm in my car, and I pull out my some change from my pocket, and out drops the nut. Somehow this nut must have fallen into my pocket. The pants were then laundered. And two days later, out it pops! ??????
Now, can you find the needle-nose pliers I lost while they were sitting next to me 50 years ago? 🤣
 
Installed new transmission shift cable from Golby. It's a really nice, quality cable. The only issue I had, was the diameter of the holes where the inner cable attaches to the shift mechanisms, were too small. I don't know if that varied from year to year, or if it was mis-drilled. A quick fix, but worth checking before you go trying to install it and discover it won't connect.
 
I upgraded the kitchen countertop today. I had a bear of a time getting the sink out. But, it is all back together and if it doesn't look better, at least it looks different.
 

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