Amazing. I’m gonna do it that way exactly. I’ve seen someone caulk the top as well as butyl. Seems kind of redundant to me. Also do you recall how many screws you ordered? Thanks so much.
I am still fighting the front cap seam and I have tried just about everything except butyl. I think butyl would be very messy especially when it gets hot and I doubt you can paint over it.
I have some leftover Eternabond from an avion. I’ll probably use it and see what happens.
When I installed my CR Lawrence windows a dozen years back I used butyl rubber to seal them to the coach. So far the rubber has not been "very messy especially when it gets hot". I have not tried to do any painting so I don't know about that. I think butyl would work under the rails.
Yes I used Dicor on everything up top except for AC unit of course. It is also paintable.
Same here - I also sealed front and rear roof seam with Dicor. The appearance isn't perfection, but a bit of roof goop is better than interior rot.
Yep. Just make sure you moisten your gloves/fingers when applying!
Does the butyl tape extend down to the screw holes, or do you have to trim around it to install the screws?
As I recall, the screws are just below the 1” butyl tape. Some butyl sealant will squish out near the screws but that wasn’t an issue on my installation.
Ok, in my mind, I had to trim the butyl around the holes. The threaded studs you used for alignment. Did you drill the holes large enough that the trim piece just slides over the studs? Thanks again. Just want to get this worked out in my head before the screws and washers arrive.
I believe you are asking if the side rail (trim piece) will slide over the threaded studs - Yes. You should not make the holes on the side rail larger. Just focus on tapping each screw hole in the top for the 10-24 stainless screws. Just be sure to match the same angle of the top when tapping the holes or the screw will not sit flush on the side rail.
