roof lights

Kelly,

Those are not the OEM lights.

A direct replacement is:

Grote 46322 - Red lens - LED = https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gte-46322
Grote 46323 - Yellow lens - LED = https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gte-46323

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808


-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of kelly stockwell
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2018 7:15 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: [GMCnet] roof lights

are these the same ones that are on the roof now?

https://www.amazon.com/Lights-Pickup-Triangle-Yellow-IKONMOTORSPORTS/dp/B00R2LDQWY/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1527423100&sr=8-19&keywor
ds=led+roof+lights+for+trucks

I think the leak I have at the windshield when it's raining and I go downhill is actually water dripping though a light and pooling
on the back of the
headliner.

thank you
kelly
 
DOT requires the lights. If your State has vehicle inspections, it will not pass without functioning clearance lights. Disclaimer: Alabama does not
inspect privately owned vehicles.

The LED replacements work well, but the color coded wires on the lights are reversed. Install them once and seal them down with your favorite gasket
material that is not silicon.

JmK and others have complete sets of proper LED clearance lights. If your rivnuts are not destroyed by rust, the screw holes match up. Otherwise, it
is PITA.

Tom
--
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
 
Kelly,

Tom is 100% correct re being a PITA to change these IF the 6/32 screws are rusted in and the rivnuts strip / spin in the roof.

To R&R them spray them with penetrating fluid such as PB Blaster several times over a week or so, then VERY carefully try to unscrew
them. Should the rivnuts spin you can get these to replace them:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#blind-rivet-nuts/=1d0urn0

Be careful when you remove the wires, if the bullet connectors come loose the wire will disappear under the roof and you'll have a
hell of a time fishing it back out!

As far as sealing them goes the Grote lights I sent you the link for have THICK sponge rubber seals, I put a set on Double Trouble
in 2008 and they haven't leaked yet. BTW you don't have to squash the seal FLAT.

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808


-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Thomas Phipps
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2018 8:00 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] roof lights

DOT requires the lights. If your State has vehicle inspections, it will not pass without functioning clearance lights. Disclaimer:
Alabama does not inspect privately owned vehicles.

The LED replacements work well, but the color coded wires on the lights are reversed. Install them once and seal them down with your
favorite gasket material that is not silicon.

JmK and others have complete sets of proper LED clearance lights. If your rivnuts are not destroyed by rust, the screw holes match
up. Otherwise, it is PITA.

Tom
 
Rob, I believe these are the LEDs.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/grote-industries-hi-count-school-bus-wedge-led-marker-lamps?tw=School%20bus%20&sw=Grote%20Industries%20Hi%20Count%20School%20Bus%20Wedge%20LED%20Marker%20Lamps

> Kelly,
>
> Tom is 100% correct re being a PITA to change these IF the 6/32 screws are rusted in and the rivnuts strip / spin in the roof.
>
> To R&R them spray them with penetrating fluid such as PB Blaster several times over a week or so, then VERY carefully try to unscrew
> them. Should the rivnuts spin you can get these to replace them:
>
> https://www.mcmaster.com/#blind-rivet-nuts/=1d0urn0
>
> Be careful when you remove the wires, if the bullet connectors come loose the wire will disappear under the roof and you'll have a
> hell of a time fishing it back out!
>
> As far as sealing them goes the Grote lights I sent you the link for have THICK sponge rubber seals, I put a set on Double Trouble
> in 2008 and they haven't leaked yet. BTW you don't have to squash the seal FLAT.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic
> Sydney, Australia
> AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
> USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Thomas Phipps
> Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2018 8:00 AM
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] roof lights
>
> DOT requires the lights. If your State has vehicle inspections, it will not pass without functioning clearance lights. Disclaimer:
> Alabama does not inspect privately owned vehicles.
>
> The LED replacements work well, but the color coded wires on the lights are reversed. Install them once and seal them down with your
> favorite gasket material that is not silicon.
>
> JmK and others have complete sets of proper LED clearance lights. If your rivnuts are not destroyed by rust, the screw holes match
> up. Otherwise, it is PITA.
>
> Tom
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
 
Chuck,

You're right! I didn't read the blurb carefully the ones I noted are INCANDESCENT not LED!

At $11.99 and 10.99 that's a great deal!

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808


-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Charles Boyd
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2018 8:42 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] roof lights

Rob, I believe these are the LEDs.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/grote-industries-hi-count-school-bus-wedge-led-marker-lamps?tw=School%20bus%20&sw=G
rote%20Industries%20Hi%20Count%20School%20Bus%20Wedge%20LED%20Marker%20Lamps

> Kelly,
>
> Tom is 100% correct re being a PITA to change these IF the 6/32 screws are rusted in and the rivnuts strip / spin in the roof.
>
> To R&R them spray them with penetrating fluid such as PB Blaster several times over a week or so, then VERY carefully try to
unscrew
> them. Should the rivnuts spin you can get these to replace them:
>
> https://www.mcmaster.com/#blind-rivet-nuts/=1d0urn0
>
> Be careful when you remove the wires, if the bullet connectors come loose the wire will disappear under the roof and you'll have a
> hell of a time fishing it back out!
>
> As far as sealing them goes the Grote lights I sent you the link for have THICK sponge rubber seals, I put a set on Double Trouble
> in 2008 and they haven't leaked yet. BTW you don't have to squash the seal FLAT.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic
> Sydney, Australia
> AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
> USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Thomas Phipps
> Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2018 8:00 AM
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] roof lights
>
> DOT requires the lights. If your State has vehicle inspections, it will not pass without functioning clearance lights. Disclaimer:
> Alabama does not inspect privately owned vehicles.
>
> The LED replacements work well, but the color coded wires on the lights are reversed. Install them once and seal them down with
your
> favorite gasket material that is not silicon.
>
> JmK and others have complete sets of proper LED clearance lights. If your rivnuts are not destroyed by rust, the screw holes match
> up. Otherwise, it is PITA.
>
> Tom
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee

_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
The big advantage of the LED lights is the molded one piece construction.
No leaks. The OEM lights are a guaranteed leak source, no matter how
fastidious you are when you install them. The molly screws are the culprit.
I always remove them, drill out the holes to fit neoprene "well nuts" and
use all stainless steel screws, sealed down with 3M flexible sealant, not
rigid adhesive. If there is any silicone sealant present, be sure and
remove all of it. Just the residue from that crap will prevent a good deal,
and it will leak again.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403

> Chuck,
>
> You're right! I didn't read the blurb carefully the ones I noted are
> INCANDESCENT not LED!
>
> At $11.99 and 10.99 that's a great deal!
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic
> Sydney, Australia
> AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
> USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of
> Charles Boyd
> Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2018 8:42 AM
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] roof lights
>
> Rob, I believe these are the LEDs.
>
> https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/grote-industries-hi-count-school-bus-wedge-led-marker-lamps?tw=School%20bus%20&sw=G
>
> rote%20Industries%20Hi%20Count%20School%20Bus%20Wedge%20LED%20Marker%20Lamps
> https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/grote-industries-hi-count-school-bus-wedge-led-marker-lamps?tw=School%20bus%20&sw=Grote%20Industries%20Hi%20Count%20School%20Bus%20Wedge%20LED%20Marker%20Lamps
>
>
>
>
>

> > Kelly,
> >
> > Tom is 100% correct re being a PITA to change these IF the 6/32 screws
> are rusted in and the rivnuts strip / spin in the roof.
> >
> > To R&R them spray them with penetrating fluid such as PB Blaster several
> times over a week or so, then VERY carefully try to
> unscrew
> > them. Should the rivnuts spin you can get these to replace them:
> >
> > https://www.mcmaster.com/#blind-rivet-nuts/=1d0urn0
> >
> > Be careful when you remove the wires, if the bullet connectors come
> loose the wire will disappear under the roof and you'll have a
> > hell of a time fishing it back out!
> >
> > As far as sealing them goes the Grote lights I sent you the link for
> have THICK sponge rubber seals, I put a set on Double Trouble
> > in 2008 and they haven't leaked yet. BTW you don't have to squash the
> seal FLAT.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Rob M.
> > The Pedantic Mechanic
> > Sydney, Australia
> > AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> > USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
> > USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of
> Thomas Phipps
> > Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2018 8:00 AM
> > To: gmclist
> > Subject: Re: [GMCnet] roof lights
> >
> > DOT requires the lights. If your State has vehicle inspections, it will
> not pass without functioning clearance lights. Disclaimer:
> > Alabama does not inspect privately owned vehicles.
> >
> > The LED replacements work well, but the color coded wires on the lights
> are reversed. Install them once and seal them down with
> your
> > favorite gasket material that is not silicon.
> >
> > JmK and others have complete sets of proper LED clearance lights. If
> your rivnuts are not destroyed by rust, the screw holes match
> > up. Otherwise, it is PITA.
> >
> > Tom
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
> East Tennessee
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Kelly,

Go with the LED and never look back.

For the first three years, I was up on the roof every spring and sometimes in between to try to keep those buggers on and not leaking....
Then I sprung for LED and bedded them in Butyl Rubber. That was quite a while ago.

When you are changing them out, do it with the lights ON! Get each light loose and carefully pull the wires until you get to the bullet connectors.
Connect the new LED and make sure it lights. They are polarity sensitive and the old lights were not. I found them backwards about a third of the
time.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Thanks all!

I'll go with LED. Sounds like I should expect this to not go smoothly and then if it does I'll be pleasantly surprised.
I've replaced all the interior lights with LED, so far only the floor lights had reverse polarity. Good idea to do this with lights on so you don't
finish and realize it doesn't work

kelly

--
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
 
Is this as simple as replacing a bulb with a 12 volt led array?
What leds did you use?

> Thanks all!
>
> I'll go with LED. Sounds like I should expect this to not go smoothly and
> then if it does I'll be pleasantly surprised.
> I've replaced all the interior lights with LED, so far only the floor
> lights had reverse polarity. Good idea to do this with lights on so you
> don't
> finish and realize it doesn't work
>
>
> kelly
>
>
> --
> 1978 Kingsley
> Putney VT
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--

*John Phillips*
 
No, you don’t just replace the bulb. You replace the light assembly. The LED ones are totally sealed so no moisture can get under the lens and cause corrosion.
I got mine years back from Jim Kanomata at Applied GMC.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

>
> Is this as simple as replacing a bulb with a 12 volt led array?
> What leds did you use?
>

>
>> Thanks all!
>>
>> I'll go with LED. Sounds like I should expect this to not go smoothly and
>> then if it does I'll be pleasantly surprised.
>> I've replaced all the interior lights with LED, so far only the floor
>> lights had reverse polarity. Good idea to do this with lights on so you
>> don't
>> finish and realize it doesn't work
>>
>>
>> kelly
>>
>>
>> --
>> 1978 Kingsley
>> Putney VT
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
>
>
> --
>
> *John Phillips*
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Would there be a market for a led array that replaced a 12-volt bulb?

> No, you don’t just replace the bulb. You replace the light assembly. The
> LED ones are totally sealed so no moisture can get under the lens and cause
> corrosion.
> I got mine years back from Jim Kanomata at Applied GMC.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
>
> > On May 27, 2018, at 12:19 PM, John Phillips

> >
> > Is this as simple as replacing a bulb with a 12 volt led array?
> > What leds did you use?
> >
> > On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 11:14 AM, kelly stockwell

> >
> >> Thanks all!
> >>
> >> I'll go with LED. Sounds like I should expect this to not go smoothly
> and
> >> then if it does I'll be pleasantly surprised.
> >> I've replaced all the interior lights with LED, so far only the floor
> >> lights had reverse polarity. Good idea to do this with lights on so
> you
> >> don't
> >> finish and realize it doesn't work
> >>
> >>
> >> kelly
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> 1978 Kingsley
> >> Putney VT
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > *John Phillips*
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--

*John Phillips*
 
> are these the same ones that are on the roof now?
>
> I think the leak I have at the windshield when it's raining and I go downhill is actually water dripping though a light and pooling on the back of
> the headliner.
>
> thank you
> kelly

Kelly,

Don't bother buying a spare. You won't need it.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Where above your windshield is the water showing up? If it's showing up at the rearview mirror, or at the driver's or passenger's knees, the leak may
not be from the clearance lights.

I replaced my clearance lights and still had a leak. Bill Bryant referred me to an early Service Bulletin, 75-TM-10, that
describes a potential point of water entry - the roof cap to windshield frame joint. The two pieces are bonded together and the joint is partially
concealed by a bead in the SMC running along the bottom edge of the roof cap. My coach had been repainted and the gap in the joint was barely visible
even close up, but it was enough to let water enter and capillary action kept sucking water into the gap.

If the leak does turn out to be coming from that gap...don't use silicone caulk!

Richard

> I think the leak I have at the windshield when it's raining and I go downhill is actually water dripping though a light and pooling on the back of
> the headliner.
>
> thank you
> kelly

--
'77 Birchaven TZE...777
 
To add to Richards recommendation, The windshield guys that we use at the rallies have seen that overhead windshield leak many times. Usually it is
between the gasket and the fiber glass. They pre-emptively seal the top of the windshield to the body all the way across the top and down the sides
whenever the install a new windshield. The do not do the bottom. GM never did this. It only takes a few minutes, one tube of butyl caulk, and a
roll of masking tape.

Note: if silicone was previously used in the area then the butyl will not stick. You will have to use a tube of black silicone instead.

> Where above your windshield is the water showing up? If it's showing up at the rearview mirror, or at the driver's or passenger's knees, the leak
> may not be from the clearance lights.
>
> I replaced my clearance lights and still had a leak. Bill Bryant referred me to an early Service Bulletin, 75-TM-10, that describes a potential
> point of water entry - the roof cap to windshield frame joint. The two pieces are bonded together and the joint is partially concealed by a bead in
> the SMC running along the bottom edge of the roof cap. My coach had been repainted and the gap in the joint was barely visible even close up, but
> it was enough to let water enter and capillary action kept sucking water into the gap.
>
> The windshield frame to roof cap is a built up box section. It holds water, and sometimes days after a rain, I'd start driving and water would
> start leaking from above when I turned a corner or the coach was on an incline.
>
> As a test, tape up that joint well and hose down the roof to see if you can recreate the leak. Odd thing about that leak, I'd pressurized and
> tested the coach seams with soapy water twice and there were never any bubbles at the roof cap/windshield frame joint.
>
> If the leak does turn out to be coming from that gap...don't use silicone caulk!
>
> Richard
>
>

> > I think the leak I have at the windshield when it's raining and I go downhill is actually water dripping though a light and pooling on the
> > back of the headliner.
> >
> > thank you
> > kelly

--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
There's a drip right in the middle of where the passenger sits, but only shows up when I'm going downhill or stopping (and water i assume rushes
forward). It's only a few drops each time. I'm assuming water is pooling on top of the plastic headliner but maybe not? So to test this I need to
be on an pretty serious incline. I'll replace the lights (I can wiggle them and some have water in them) and see if it goes away.

Lights are ordered! I did get an extra; because I don't know why (before I saw that note). I think the extra amber could replace the side door
light? I've already replaced that bulb to LED

-kelly

> Where above your windshield is the water showing up? If it's showing up at the rearview mirror, or at the driver's or passenger's knees, the leak
> may not be from the clearance lights.
>
> I replaced my clearance lights and still had a leak. Bill Bryant referred me to an early Service Bulletin, 75-TM-10, that describes a potential
> point of water entry - the roof cap to windshield frame joint. The two pieces are bonded together and the joint is partially concealed by a bead in
> the SMC running along the bottom edge of the roof cap. My coach had been repainted and the gap in the joint was barely visible even close up, but
> it was enough to let water enter and capillary action kept sucking water into the gap.
>
> The windshield frame to roof cap is a built up box section. It holds water, and sometimes days after a rain, I'd start driving and water would
> start leaking from above when I turned a corner or the coach was on an incline.
>
> As a test, tape up that joint well and hose down the roof to see if you can recreate the leak. Odd thing about that leak, I'd pressurized and
> tested the coach seams with soapy water twice and there were never any bubbles at the roof cap/windshield frame joint.
>
> If the leak does turn out to be coming from that gap...don't use silicone caulk!
>
> Richard
>
>

> > I think the leak I have at the windshield when it's raining and I go downhill is actually water dripping though a light and pooling on the
> > back of the headliner.
> >
> > thank you
> > kelly

--
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
 
Oh, and some joker has put silicone on weird spots on the roof over the years... lucky me

--
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
 
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