roof lights

A very good caulk sealant is at West Marine. It is polyether and will seal underwater. I used this on both the windshield, side front windows and roof
cap/body seam. A bit pricy, but worth not having to repeat the job in the future.

Tom
--
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
 
Like these?
https://www.amazon.com/RUBBER-NUT-THREADED-INSERTS-THREAD-015-156/dp/B015EVZOU0/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1528326439&sr=8-17&keywords=neoprene+well+nuts

I got my LED lights from Grote. What do I use to hook up the wires? I keep hearing crimp connectors are bad- so I don't know what to use.

thanks
kelly

> The big advantage of the LED lights is the molded one piece construction.
> No leaks. The OEM lights are a guaranteed leak source, no matter how
> fastidious you are when you install them. The molly screws are the culprit.
> I always remove them, drill out the holes to fit neoprene "well nuts" and
> use all stainless steel screws, sealed down with 3M flexible sealant, not
> rigid adhesive. If there is any silicone sealant present, be sure and
> remove all of it. Just the residue from that crap will prevent a good deal,
> and it will leak again.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
> 78 GMC ROYALE 403
>

>
> > Chuck,
> >
> > You're right! I didn't read the blurb carefully the ones I noted are
> > INCANDESCENT not LED!
> >
> > At $11.99 and 10.99 that's a great deal!
> >
> > Regards,
> > Rob M.
> > The Pedantic Mechanic
> > Sydney, Australia
> > AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> > USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
> > USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of
> > Charles Boyd
> > Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2018 8:42 AM
> > To: gmclist
> > Subject: Re: [GMCnet] roof lights
> >
> > Rob, I believe these are the LEDs.
> >
> > https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/grote-industries-hi-count-school-bus-wedge-led-marker-lamps?tw=School%20bus%20&sw=G
> >
> > rote%20Industries%20Hi%20Count%20School%20Bus%20Wedge%20LED%20Marker%20Lamps
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >

> >> Kelly,
> >>
> >> Tom is 100% correct re being a PITA to change these IF the 6/32 screws
> > are rusted in and the rivnuts strip / spin in the roof.
> >>
> >> To R&R them spray them with penetrating fluid such as PB Blaster several
> > times over a week or so, then VERY carefully try to
> > unscrew
> >> them. Should the rivnuts spin you can get these to replace them:
> >>
> >> https://www.mcmaster.com/#blind-rivet-nuts/=1d0urn0
> >>
> >> Be careful when you remove the wires, if the bullet connectors come
> > loose the wire will disappear under the roof and you'll have a
> >> hell of a time fishing it back out!
> >>
> >> As far as sealing them goes the Grote lights I sent you the link for
> > have THICK sponge rubber seals, I put a set on Double Trouble
> >> in 2008 and they haven't leaked yet. BTW you don't have to squash the
> > seal FLAT.
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >> Rob M.
> >> The Pedantic Mechanic
> >> Sydney, Australia
> >> AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> >> USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
> >> USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of
> > Thomas Phipps
> >> Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2018 8:00 AM
> >> To: gmclist
> >> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] roof lights
> >>
> >> DOT requires the lights. If your State has vehicle inspections, it will
> > not pass without functioning clearance lights. Disclaimer:
> >> Alabama does not inspect privately owned vehicles.
> >>
> >> The LED replacements work well, but the color coded wires on the lights
> > are reversed. Install them once and seal them down with
> > your
> >> favorite gasket material that is not silicon.
> >>
> >> JmK and others have complete sets of proper LED clearance lights. If
> > your rivnuts are not destroyed by rust, the screw holes match
> >> up. Otherwise, it is PITA.
> >>
> >> Tom
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> > --
> > C. Boyd
> > 76 Crestmont
> > East Tennessee
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

--
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
 
> Like these?
> https://www.amazon.com/RUBBER-NUT-THREADED-INSERTS-THREAD-015-156/dp/B015EVZOU0/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1528326439&sr=8-17&keywords=neopre
> ne+well+nuts
>
> I got my LED lights from Grote. What do I use to hook up the wires? I keep hearing crimp connectors are bad- so I don't know what to use.
>
> thanks
> kelly

Kelly,

Real crip connectors are not the problem.
You should need connectors like these. https://www.delcity.net/store/Bullet-Connectors/p_801749
What you should avoid using are these. https://www.delcity.net/store/Quick-Splice-&-Tap-Connectors/p_901562
They are massively unreliable and will die in a very short time if exposed to anything.....

I not remember if the lights were two male bullets or a male and a female. I always have stock of both.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
So, I think I lucked out. The front lights all seem to have newer mollys in them, all the screws came out cleanly and the gasket connecting to the
rig is in good shape.

The rear have sealant around the lights, the screws all came out but some were VERY rusted, had to goto a small flat head and make a new slot in a
few. However, the furthest passenger side rear light is not screwed on, it looks like rivets. How do I remove them? It's a rounded screw like head
with no slot and a thin metal rod coming out of it maybe 1/8" tall or so.

thanks
kelly

--
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
 
Pop rivet. Have to drill em out. Use a bit smaller than the head, and just
cut through the head. Go slow and careful.
Jim Hupy

> So, I think I lucked out. The front lights all seem to have newer mollys
> in them, all the screws came out cleanly and the gasket connecting to the
> rig is in good shape.
>
> The rear have sealant around the lights, the screws all came out but some
> were VERY rusted, had to goto a small flat head and make a new slot in a
> few. However, the furthest passenger side rear light is not screwed on,
> it looks like rivets. How do I remove them? It's a rounded screw like head
> with no slot and a thin metal rod coming out of it maybe 1/8" tall or so.
>
> thanks
> kelly
>
>
> --
> 1978 Kingsley
> Putney VT
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
That metal rod was supposed to have broken off below the head. Use a punch
(a very small punch, maybe a nail set) to drive it back in and below the
surface.

> Pop rivet. Have to drill em out. Use a bit smaller than the head, and just
> cut through the head. Go slow and careful.
>

>
> > So, I think I lucked out. The front lights all seem to have newer mollys
> > in them, all the screws came out cleanly and the gasket connecting to the
> > rig is in good shape.
> >
> > The rear have sealant around the lights, the screws all came out but some
> > were VERY rusted, had to goto a small flat head and make a new slot in a
> > few. However, the furthest passenger side rear light is not screwed on,
> > it looks like rivets. How do I remove them? It's a rounded screw like
> head
> > with no slot and a thin metal rod coming out of it maybe 1/8" tall or so.
>
>
 
That's what I thought you would say... Glad it's only one, that will be the last one I do. I assume I'll need to get a molly for that one so I can
use the 6-32 screws like the others?

> Pop rivet. Have to drill em out. Use a bit smaller than the head, and just
> cut through the head. Go slow and careful.
> Jim Hupy
>

>
> > So, I think I lucked out. The front lights all seem to have newer mollys
> > in them, all the screws came out cleanly and the gasket connecting to the
> > rig is in good shape.
> >
> > The rear have sealant around the lights, the screws all came out but some
> > were VERY rusted, had to goto a small flat head and make a new slot in a
> > few. However, the furthest passenger side rear light is not screwed on,
> > it looks like rivets. How do I remove them? It's a rounded screw like head
> > with no slot and a thin metal rod coming out of it maybe 1/8" tall or so.
> >
> > thanks
> > kelly
> >
> >
> > --
> > 1978 Kingsley
> > Putney VT
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

--
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
 
I wondered if it was normal, it was hard to find a photo of what I saw

were they all originally put in with rivets?

> That metal rod was supposed to have broken off below the head. Use a punch
> (a very small punch, maybe a nail set) to drive it back in and below the
> surface.
>

>
> > Pop rivet. Have to drill em out. Use a bit smaller than the head, and just
> > cut through the head. Go slow and careful.
> >

> >
> >> So, I think I lucked out. The front lights all seem to have newer mollys
> >> in them, all the screws came out cleanly and the gasket connecting to the
> >> rig is in good shape.
> >>
> >> The rear have sealant around the lights, the screws all came out but some
> >> were VERY rusted, had to goto a small flat head and make a new slot in a
> >> few. However, the furthest passenger side rear light is not screwed on,
> >> it looks like rivets. How do I remove them? It's a rounded screw like
> > head
> >> with no slot and a thin metal rod coming out of it maybe 1/8" tall or so.
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

--
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
 
When the Zip-Dee awning is installed, that light has to be moved. That is
why it differs from the rest of them. There is a hole under the mounting
rail that will leak if not well sealed.
Jim Hupy

> I wondered if it was normal, it was hard to find a photo of what I saw
>
> were they all originally put in with rivets?
>
>
>

> > That metal rod was supposed to have broken off below the head. Use a
> punch
> > (a very small punch, maybe a nail set) to drive it back in and below the
> > surface.
> >

> >
> > > Pop rivet. Have to drill em out. Use a bit smaller than the head, and
> just
> > > cut through the head. Go slow and careful.
> > >

> > >
> > >> So, I think I lucked out. The front lights all seem to have newer
> mollys
> > >> in them, all the screws came out cleanly and the gasket connecting
> to the
> > >> rig is in good shape.
> > >>
> > >> The rear have sealant around the lights, the screws all came out but
> some
> > >> were VERY rusted, had to goto a small flat head and make a new slot
> in a
> > >> few. However, the furthest passenger side rear light is not screwed
> on,
> > >> it looks like rivets. How do I remove them? It's a rounded screw
> like
> > > head
> > >> with no slot and a thin metal rod coming out of it maybe 1/8" tall
> or so.
> > >
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> --
> 1978 Kingsley
> Putney VT
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Hole under the awning? I'm sure that was sealed. And that makes perfect sense as to why this is different.
Thanks guys!

Hope to get them done this weekend, at least the easy front ones.

Cheers
kelly

> When the Zip-Dee awning is installed, that light has to be moved. That is
> why it differs from the rest of them. There is a hole under the mounting
> rail that will leak if not well sealed.
> Jim Hupy
>

>
> > I wondered if it was normal, it was hard to find a photo of what I saw
> >
> > were they all originally put in with rivets?
> >
> >
> >

> >> That metal rod was supposed to have broken off below the head. Use a
> > punch
> >> (a very small punch, maybe a nail set) to drive it back in and below the
> >> surface.
> >>

> >>
> >>> Pop rivet. Have to drill em out. Use a bit smaller than the head, and
> > just
> >>> cut through the head. Go slow and careful.
> >>>

> >>>
> >>>> So, I think I lucked out. The front lights all seem to have newer
> > mollys
> >>>> in them, all the screws came out cleanly and the gasket connecting
> > to the
> >>>> rig is in good shape.
> >>>>
> >>>> The rear have sealant around the lights, the screws all came out but
> > some
> >>>> were VERY rusted, had to goto a small flat head and make a new slot
> > in a
> >>>> few. However, the furthest passenger side rear light is not screwed
> > on,
> >>>> it looks like rivets. How do I remove them? It's a rounded screw
> > like
> >>> head
> >>>> with no slot and a thin metal rod coming out of it maybe 1/8" tall
> > or so.
> >>>
> >>>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> > --
> > 1978 Kingsley
> > Putney VT
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

--
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
 
It is the factory hole for the clearance light. The drip rail extrusion
used for the awning interferes with the light, so it has to be moved. That
is why there is a different fastener used on the light..
Jim Hupy

> Hole under the awning? I'm sure that was sealed. And that makes perfect
> sense as to why this is different.
> Thanks guys!
>
> Hope to get them done this weekend, at least the easy front ones.
>
> Cheers
> kelly
>
>
>

> > When the Zip-Dee awning is installed, that light has to be moved. That is
> > why it differs from the rest of them. There is a hole under the mounting
> > rail that will leak if not well sealed.
> > Jim Hupy
> >

> >
> > > I wondered if it was normal, it was hard to find a photo of what I saw
> > >
> > > were they all originally put in with rivets?
> > >
> > >
> > >

> > >> That metal rod was supposed to have broken off below the head. Use a
> > > punch
> > >> (a very small punch, maybe a nail set) to drive it back in and below
> the
> > >> surface.
> > >>

> > >>
> > >>> Pop rivet. Have to drill em out. Use a bit smaller than the head,
> and
> > > just
> > >>> cut through the head. Go slow and careful.
> > >>>

> > >>>
> > >>>> So, I think I lucked out. The front lights all seem to have newer
> > > mollys
> > >>>> in them, all the screws came out cleanly and the gasket connecting
> > > to the
> > >>>> rig is in good shape.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> The rear have sealant around the lights, the screws all came out
> but
> > > some
> > >>>> were VERY rusted, had to goto a small flat head and make a new
> slot
> > > in a
> > >>>> few. However, the furthest passenger side rear light is not
> screwed
> > > on,
> > >>>> it looks like rivets. How do I remove them? It's a rounded screw
> > > like
> > >>> head
> > >>>> with no slot and a thin metal rod coming out of it maybe 1/8" tall
> > > or so.
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >> _______________________________________________
> > >> GMCnet mailing list
> > >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > >
> > > --
> > > 1978 Kingsley
> > > Putney VT
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> --
> 1978 Kingsley
> Putney VT
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
You'd think I wouldn't have so many questions...

Do I need to use any type of sealant in the holes on the LED light (where the long screws go through the light into the molys on the roof)? Like a
dab of RTV in each well to make sure that no water gets around the screw heads and directly into the coach? The old light assembly had the screws
protected/covered by the amber housing, these are right out in the elements.

All the ends on the new lights need to be male bullet connectors. I got new SS screws, and will hook this up with the lights on

thanks
kelly

--
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
 
Any possible leak point should have flexible sealant. That includes around
the screw heads unless they have "0" rings under the heads.
Only "dumb" question is the one you did not ask. We have all been
standing where you are presently. We all have an obligation to new owners
to welcome and assist them. Yes, and to give them a soft jab in the ribs
now and then, just for the heck of it. (Grin)
Jim Hupy

> You'd think I wouldn't have so many questions...
>
> Do I need to use any type of sealant in the holes on the LED light (where
> the long screws go through the light into the molys on the roof)? Like a
> dab of RTV in each well to make sure that no water gets around the screw
> heads and directly into the coach? The old light assembly had the screws
> protected/covered by the amber housing, these are right out in the
> elements.
>
>
> All the ends on the new lights need to be male bullet connectors. I got
> new SS screws, and will hook this up with the lights on
>
> thanks
> kelly
>
> --
> 1978 Kingsley
> Putney VT
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Thanks, there are no o-rings with the LED lights. I'll get a small tube of something when I get the correct bullet connectors.
Dab in the hole, then put the screw in is my plan

Got it all shiny up there, was really shiny under the old lights, now it's all shiny. Used waterless cleaner, then polish/sealant (just the top cap).
I think the water leak is at the joint where the windshield meets the roof, so that will be next.

-kelly

> Any possible leak point should have flexible sealant. That includes around
> the screw heads unless they have "0" rings under the heads.
> Only "dumb" question is the one you did not ask. We have all been
> standing where you are presently. We all have an obligation to new owners
> to welcome and assist them. Yes, and to give them a soft jab in the ribs
> now and then, just for the heck of it. (Grin)
> Jim Hupy
>

>
> > You'd think I wouldn't have so many questions...
> >
> > Do I need to use any type of sealant in the holes on the LED light (where
> > the long screws go through the light into the molys on the roof)? Like a
> > dab of RTV in each well to make sure that no water gets around the screw
> > heads and directly into the coach? The old light assembly had the screws
> > protected/covered by the amber housing, these are right out in the
> > elements.
> >
> >
> > All the ends on the new lights need to be male bullet connectors. I got
> > new SS screws, and will hook this up with the lights on
> >
> > thanks
> > kelly
> >
> > --
> > 1978 Kingsley
> > Putney VT
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

--
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
 
Kelly,

In my opinion it would be better to put a bit of sealant just under the screw head as well as a dab in the hole.

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808


-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of kelly stockwell
Sent: Saturday, June 9, 2018 11:08 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] roof lights

Thanks, there are no o-rings with the LED lights. I'll get a small tube of something when I get the correct bullet connectors. Dab
in the hole, then put the screw in is my plan

Got it all shiny up there, was really shiny under the old lights, now it's all shiny. Used waterless cleaner, then polish/sealant
(just the top cap). I think the water leak is at the joint where the windshield meets the roof, so that will be next.

-kelly
 
Kelly, do you still have the batwing tv antenna? Those things leak like a
sieve. Also, the whip radio antenna in the center of the roof will leak as
well. And last but not least, the extrusion on the forward end of the Zip
Dee roof bracket has a molded rubber gasket? that deteriorates over time.
Held in place by a single screw, they almost all leak. All for corners of
the coach have them, and they always leak. Roof leaks are a once a year
repair unless you shelter your coach. We had a 1/2" of rain here last
night. Glad I had my coach under cover. Oregon weather will test any roof
repair strategy you can come up with.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC Royale 403

> Thanks, there are no o-rings with the LED lights. I'll get a small tube
> of something when I get the correct bullet connectors.
> Dab in the hole, then put the screw in is my plan
>
> Got it all shiny up there, was really shiny under the old lights, now it's
> all shiny. Used waterless cleaner, then polish/sealant (just the top cap).
> I think the water leak is at the joint where the windshield meets the
> roof, so that will be next.
>
> -kelly
>
>

> > Any possible leak point should have flexible sealant. That includes
> around
> > the screw heads unless they have "0" rings under the heads.
> > Only "dumb" question is the one you did not ask. We have all been
> > standing where you are presently. We all have an obligation to new owners
> > to welcome and assist them. Yes, and to give them a soft jab in the ribs
> > now and then, just for the heck of it. (Grin)
> > Jim Hupy
> >

> >
> > > You'd think I wouldn't have so many questions...
> > >
> > > Do I need to use any type of sealant in the holes on the LED light
> (where
> > > the long screws go through the light into the molys on the roof)?
> Like a
> > > dab of RTV in each well to make sure that no water gets around the
> screw
> > > heads and directly into the coach? The old light assembly had the
> screws
> > > protected/covered by the amber housing, these are right out in the
> > > elements.
> > >
> > >
> > > All the ends on the new lights need to be male bullet connectors. I
> got
> > > new SS screws, and will hook this up with the lights on
> > >
> > > thanks
> > > kelly
> > >
> > > --
> > > 1978 Kingsley
> > > Putney VT
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> --
> 1978 Kingsley
> Putney VT
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
i have all those things with a lot of flexible but old caulk gooped around them. I had a shelter made off my garage to help protect the buggy but I
would love to work my way front to back and remove what's not needed, reseal/regoop what's left.

I will add a bit of RTV under the screw head when mounting the new lights and not worry about the big hole the wires come up through (it will be
surrounded by gasket)

as always thank you!

> Kelly, do you still have the batwing tv antenna? Those things leak like a
> sieve. Also, the whip radio antenna in the center of the roof will leak as
> well. And last but not least, the extrusion on the forward end of the Zip
> Dee roof bracket has a molded rubber gasket? that deteriorates over time.
> Held in place by a single screw, they almost all leak. All for corners of
> the coach have them, and they always leak. Roof leaks are a once a year
> repair unless you shelter your coach. We had a 1/2" of rain here last
> night. Glad I had my coach under cover. Oregon weather will test any roof
> repair strategy you can come up with.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
> 78 GMC Royale 403
>

>
> > Thanks, there are no o-rings with the LED lights. I'll get a small tube
> > of something when I get the correct bullet connectors.
> > Dab in the hole, then put the screw in is my plan
> >
> > Got it all shiny up there, was really shiny under the old lights, now it's
> > all shiny. Used waterless cleaner, then polish/sealant (just the top cap).
> > I think the water leak is at the joint where the windshield meets the
> > roof, so that will be next.
> >
> > -kelly
> >
> >

> >> Any possible leak point should have flexible sealant. That includes
> > around
> >> the screw heads unless they have "0" rings under the heads.
> >> Only "dumb" question is the one you did not ask. We have all been
> >> standing where you are presently. We all have an obligation to new owners
> >> to welcome and assist them. Yes, and to give them a soft jab in the ribs
> >> now and then, just for the heck of it. (Grin)
> >> Jim Hupy
> >>

> >>
> >>> You'd think I wouldn't have so many questions...
> >>>
> >>> Do I need to use any type of sealant in the holes on the LED light
> > (where
> >>> the long screws go through the light into the molys on the roof)?
> > Like a
> >>> dab of RTV in each well to make sure that no water gets around the
> > screw
> >>> heads and directly into the coach? The old light assembly had the
> > screws
> >>> protected/covered by the amber housing, these are right out in the
> >>> elements.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> All the ends on the new lights need to be male bullet connectors. I
> > got
> >>> new SS screws, and will hook this up with the lights on
> >>>
> >>> thanks
> >>> kelly
> >>>
> >>> --
> >>> 1978 Kingsley
> >>> Putney VT
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> GMCnet mailing list
> >>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >>>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> > --
> > 1978 Kingsley
> > Putney VT
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

--
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
 
Too dress the screw as well so water doesn’t pool in the pocket over the
screw. Use flexible sealant so it can be easily removed for screw
extraction. Later.

Sully
Bellevue

> i have all those things with a lot of flexible but old caulk gooped around
> them. I had a shelter made off my garage to help protect the buggy but I
> would love to work my way front to back and remove what's not needed,
> reseal/regoop what's left.
>
> I will add a bit of RTV under the screw head when mounting the new lights
> and not worry about the big hole the wires come up through (it will be
> surrounded by gasket)
>
> as always thank you!
>
>
>
>

> > Kelly, do you still have the batwing tv antenna? Those things leak like a
> > sieve. Also, the whip radio antenna in the center of the roof will leak
> as
> > well. And last but not least, the extrusion on the forward end of the Zip
> > Dee roof bracket has a molded rubber gasket? that deteriorates over time.
> > Held in place by a single screw, they almost all leak. All for corners of
> > the coach have them, and they always leak. Roof leaks are a once a year
> > repair unless you shelter your coach. We had a 1/2" of rain here last
> > night. Glad I had my coach under cover. Oregon weather will test any roof
> > repair strategy you can come up with.
> > Jim Hupy
> > Salem, Or
> > 78 GMC Royale 403
> >

> >
> > > Thanks, there are no o-rings with the LED lights. I'll get a small
> tube
> > > of something when I get the correct bullet connectors.
> > > Dab in the hole, then put the screw in is my plan
> > >
> > > Got it all shiny up there, was really shiny under the old lights, now
> it's
> > > all shiny. Used waterless cleaner, then polish/sealant (just the top
> cap).
> > > I think the water leak is at the joint where the windshield meets the
> > > roof, so that will be next.
> > >
> > > -kelly
> > >
> > >

> > >> Any possible leak point should have flexible sealant. That includes
> > > around
> > >> the screw heads unless they have "0" rings under the heads.
> > >> Only "dumb" question is the one you did not ask. We have all
> been
> > >> standing where you are presently. We all have an obligation to new
> owners
> > >> to welcome and assist them. Yes, and to give them a soft jab in the
> ribs
> > >> now and then, just for the heck of it. (Grin)
> > >> Jim Hupy
> > >>

> > >>
> > >>> You'd think I wouldn't have so many questions...
> > >>>
> > >>> Do I need to use any type of sealant in the holes on the LED light
> > > (where
> > >>> the long screws go through the light into the molys on the roof)?
> > > Like a
> > >>> dab of RTV in each well to make sure that no water gets around the
> > > screw
> > >>> heads and directly into the coach? The old light assembly had the
> > > screws
> > >>> protected/covered by the amber housing, these are right out in the
> > >>> elements.
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> All the ends on the new lights need to be male bullet connectors.
> I
> > > got
> > >>> new SS screws, and will hook this up with the lights on
> > >>>
> > >>> thanks
> > >>> kelly
> > >>>
> > >>> --
> > >>> 1978 Kingsley
> > >>> Putney VT
> > >>>
> > >>> _______________________________________________
> > >>> GMCnet mailing list
> > >>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > >>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > >>>
> > >> _______________________________________________
> > >> GMCnet mailing list
> > >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > >
> > > --
> > > 1978 Kingsley
> > > Putney VT
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> --
> 1978 Kingsley
> Putney VT
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
> Thanks, there are no o-rings with the LED lights. I'll get a small tube of something when I get the correct bullet connectors.
> Dab in the hole, then put the screw in is my plan
>
> Got it all shiny up there, was really shiny under the old lights, now it's all shiny. Used waterless cleaner, then polish/sealant (just the top
> cap). I think the water leak is at the joint where the windshield meets the roof, so that will be next.
>
> -kelly

I used stainless screws with a spot of anti-seize on the threads for ease of future removal and an added O-ring under each head as a seal. No leaks.


--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
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