Edelbrock Olds Exhaust Crossover Plugs

Rick,

There's no sign in your photo that your coach ever had framing for the rear
utility door. It would have extended from the top of the beltline
longitudinal extrusion up into the window opening. Perhaps it was unique to
the Transmodes.

I don't have any pictures of the door frame but IIRC it's just aluminum
channel welded into a rectangle, open side to the outside, as around the
window openings. Half of one flange is glued to the skin and the other half
forms the door stop against which the door seats. The foam seal I found
beneath the aluminum was very thin; I've replaced it with a bulb seal. But
even with the old seal I never had any leakage. The compartment I built
there is sealed with fiberglass with a bottom which slopes 2"-3" down to the
inside: it would have standing water in it if it ever leaked; I've never
found a drop in it. I was concerned that the piano hinge across the top
would leak, but it doesn't.

Any newbie should be aware: Neither Rick's nor my 23' bears much similarity
to any others; they've both undergone total interior rebuilds with no
preconceptions as to what the design "should" be.

Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
www.gmcwipersetc.com


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rick Denney [mailto:rick]
> > I've never seen another 23' with that door; I've often wondered
> > whether they all have the rubber and striker lurking back there.
>
> Not mine. My electrical service door is above the rear wheel
> well, four or five feet forward of the generator compartment.
> There was no door frame or bits for the door over the
> generator compartment on mine. There was only the bottom edge
> of the window frame.
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=8919
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=8926
>
> Do you have pictures of the working parts of that door frame?
> I am concerned that mine is still leaking.
>
> Looking at a photo of your coach again, I'm reminded that
> your refer vent door is just forward of the electrical
> service door (as you now have it). That's true of mine also,
> but both are amidships instead of in the stern. I suspect
> that's a rear-bath vs. side-bath thing.
>
> Rick "thinking that the later rear-bath Birchaven plan wasn't
> in GM's mind in '73" Denney

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Rick,

Thanks for the info; I appreciate your taking the time to respond.

JR Wheeler 78 Royale NC/OR
jrwheeler7

> [Original Message]
> From: Rick Denney
> To: Gerald Wheeler
> Date: 12/6/2007 12:59:37 PM
> Subject: Re: [gmclist] Edelbrock Olds Exhaust Crossover Plugs
>
> JR,
>
> See comments below.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Rick
>
> Gerald Wheeler writes...
>
> > I see in your photo's that you had the power cord and a receptacle
> > that would tie the power cord to the generator. Did you ever
> > replace that receptacle with a power switch??
>
> No. I'm still satisfied with my "move the plug" transfer switch.
>
> > What I'd like to know is how do you use multiple combiners to charge
> > the Onan battery with the alternator??
>
> I have a combiner between the house and engine batteries, which is
> essentially tied to both sides of the boost solenoid. I have another
> combiner from the house 12-volt power bus to the generator starting
> battery. I'm also using a battery sized for a lawn tractor for the
> generator, and I haven't yet had a problem with this arrangement.
>
> > And what size wire should I
> > use going back to the Onan battery after the combiner??
>
> I'm using 10-gauge wire from the house bus to the generator battery.
> If the generator starting battery is dead, and if the combiner to it
> is combined (i.e., you are on shore power or the main engine is
> running), it may try to start the generator through that wire. The
> current-limiting design of the combiner will prevent any resulting
> problem when using wire of 10-guage size. It may not start the
> generator, but it the combiner will cut out as a result of its current
> protection. The generator starting battery must be unchargeable and
> utterly dead, however, for this scenario to be possible; otherwise the
> charging system that is causing the combiner to combine will also
> charge the generatore battery. If the combiner is not combined, that
> 10-gauge wire has no effect.
>
> > As you can
> > tell, I don't know a whole lot about all the electrical stuff. I
> > have a 40 or 45 PD with charge wizard to charge the original engine
> > and house batteries that the PO put in. But I don't think the PD
> > can handle a 3rd battery bank. Can I also use a small trickle
> > charger to charge the Onan battery when 120v is available??
>
> A battery for a lawn tractor won't ever pull much current from the
> charger. For one thing, you never draw it down much just by starting
> the generator. And it runs nothing else. But even if it's fully
> discharged, a lawn tractor battery will charge quickly. If the battery
> charging load is too much for the PD, the PD will shut down or limit
> the current, with no resulting damage.
>
> To me, the three house batteries in parallel does indeed represent an
> overload problem for the 45-amp PD. Three high-quality deep-cycle
> batteries could draw 75 amps at full charge, and this would exceed the
> capacity of the converter significantly. I suspect it will shut itself
> down frequently if you ever give it the task of charge three
> fully-depleted house batteries. You might want to consider a larger
> converter if you really need all those batteries.
>
> > I have considered replacing the 3 house batteries with just 2 6 volt
golf
> > cart batteries, but since the batteries were new and he used this system
> > for years, haven't done anything.
>
> I suspect he never really allowed those house batteries to deplete
> fully. And not all batteries have sufficiently low internal resistance
> to be able to draw 25 amps at full charging rate. If you use the
> system the same way he did, it probably won't be a problem.
>
> My wiring from the front to the back is only 8 or 10-gauge, as with
> most early coaches that never attempt to provide boost current from a
> rear battery. It is usually protected with a 50-amp circuit breaker in
> the front. Mine is protected with an 80-amp thermal circuit breaker in
> the front (as a disaster fuse) and a 40-amp marine breaker in the back
> to provide general overcurrent protection. By protecting that wire at
> both ends, I protect against a break in the insulation causing a
> catastrophic short, which I know has caused fires for some GMC owners
> in the past. But that means that if my house or combined house and
> engine batteries drew more than 40 amps, the breaker would trip. The
> only time that has been a problem was when the house battery had a
> dead cell.
>
> If your coach also has an 8 or 10-gauge wire from back to front,
> protected by a breaker or fuse in the 40-amp range, and if that fuse
> or breaker never trips, then your batteries are not drawing more than
> 40 amps. In that case, the 40-amp PD is sufficient. What kind of fuse
> or breaker is on the main wire going from the firewall area to the
> house power bus?
>
> > Any help is appreciated.
>
>
> > JR Wheeler 78 Royale NC/OR
> > jrwheeler7
>
>
>
> >> [Original Message]
> >> From: Rick Denney
> >> To: gmclist
> >> Date: 12/5/2007 12:07:31 PM
> >> Subject: Re: [gmclist] Edelbrock Olds Exhaust Crossover Plugs
> >>
> >> Ken Henderson writes...
> >>
> >> > I've never seen another 23' with that door; I've often wondered
> >> > whether they all have the rubber and striker lurking back there.
> >>
> >> Not mine. My electrical service door is above the rear wheel well,
> >> four or five feet forward of the generator compartment. There was no
> >> door frame or bits for the door over the generator compartment on
> >> mine. There was only the bottom edge of the window frame.
> >>
> >> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=8919
> >>
> >> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=8926
> >>
> >> Do you have pictures of the working parts of that door frame? I am
> >> concerned that mine is still leaking.
> >>
> >> Looking at a photo of your coach again, I'm reminded that your refer
> >> vent door is just forward of the electrical service door (as you now
> >> have it). That's true of mine also, but both are amidships instead of
> >> in the stern. I suspect that's a rear-bath vs. side-bath thing.
> >>
> >> Rick "thinking that the later rear-bath Birchaven plan wasn't in GM's
> >> mind in '73" Denney
> >>
> >> '73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
> >> Northern Virginia
> >>
> >>
> >> To unsubscribe or change your settings -
> > http://www.gmcnet.org/settings.htm
> >> Donate to support GMCnet - http://www.gmcnet.org/support.html
>
>
>
>
>
> '73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
> Northern Virginia