1973 GMC 26' Glacier Build

[Matt Colie]

Scott,
Yes, in the early 73 coaches that were all built with electric refrigeration only, there were no exterior vents. All the vents for the reefer were to inside around the reefer cabinet.
Problem 1: i When there were complaints in hot climates, the dealers cut in both roof and side vents.
Problem 2: Roof and side vents were added. Remember the existing vents to the interior? Those still existed and allowed the outside air (now ~20°F) to flow into the interior.
I closed off the vents to the exterior. I added so computer fans to move the hot air out the reefer box, and they are on a theral switch and they never run. Be aware that residential reefers use the case side as condenser so there has to be room to move cooling air through there.
To my knowledge, none of the coaches were made with more than the single hole in the black tank.
Chaumière is a 23 and so a smaller reefer. I found that a dorm reefer was a great fit. I power it with a cheap Chinese modified square wave inverted and the compressor case runs about 5°F higher than it is on shore power or the generator. Check the price of a 750/1500 inverter from Hazard Fright and make up your own mind.
If you have questions I did not address, come back and I will try again. '73's do have some special cases.
Matt

 

[tmsnyder]

It appears the PO planned on moving the bath forward next to the door where the fridge would have been

I wonder if the PO was planning to install a pair of single beds lengthwise in the coach, in place of the side facing dinette that's often there.

 

[ScottC]

Matt, thanks for the info. I am going to remove the vents and cover holes with aluminum, also I am going with a Victron Energy set up with solar and Lipo4.

Next question, remove and relocate the propane line from wheel well? I plan on running 20lb tanks in place of the dated fixed tank. Has anybody else done this? I searched all over but did not find anything on the subject.

 

[Matt Colie]

Scott,
I can't help you with the propane lines at all, but while the fixed tank is "dated" (and it is old), be aware that it is an ASTM code tank and as long as it is not mistreated or damaged, it does not require recertification. There may be an owner out there that is looking for one because the replacements are all built to be mounted under the frame and so have large guard structures that make putting them in a GMC impossible.
Matt

 

[ScottC]

Scott,
I can't help you with the propane lines at all, but while the fixed tank is "dated" (and it is old), be aware that it is an ASTM code tank and as long as it is not mistreated or damaged, it does not require recertification. There may be an owner out there that is looking for one because the replacements are all built to be mounted under the frame and so have large guard structures that make putting them in a GMC impossible.
Matt

Sounds like I might want re-think it

 

[PeteCarney]

Just joined the site, and reading some threads here on the forum.. You've really put some work into your motorhome! I saw a picture with your plate code of 71 so you must be near the South Bend region. I'm pretty local to you.

 

[ScottC]

Just joined the site, and reading some threads here on the forum.. You've really put some work into your motorhome! I saw a picture with your plate code of 71 so you must be near the South Bend region. I'm pretty local to you.

Pete, yes I am actually in Osceola so no not far at all, congratulations on your coach! Yes a lot of work in ours and at times I think it will never end, they say take what you think (cost & time) then double it and that probably will be true, lol. We will have to get together sometime this year.

 

[pvfjr]

Scott,
Good work with everything. One thing to check on the old propane tanks is leaks at the valve. The stem can leak, either with the valve all the way open, all the way closed, or somewhere in between. Check all three modes for leakage. I made a post in my build thread about revamping the valve with new o-rings, rubbing compound, and cotton string. Good as new.
https://www.gmcmotorhome.org/threads/the-ferrigno-familys-1975-gmc-glenbrook.342/post-13744

 

[ScottC]

Paul, thanks for the advise and link, it's funny how a few of us are working on propane and Jim Bounds post a video about the subject and he did today. I am thinking of just redoing my tank instead of going with 20lb tanks, mine is not to rusty so I might just repaint, repair or change value and put a 2 stage on it with a quick disconnect for grill or fire pit. I asked before about the LP line in the wheel well, I am just going to remove the line and run new line across to the driver side. Here are some pictures of redoing the propane area for the new style enclosure.

 

[ScottC]

Well I have some fitment issues I need to figure out, has any early owners swapped newer propane enclosure?

 

[ScottC]

The only thing I can figure out is to use some 1/2" treated lumber under the securing edge of the box, put some sealant between floor and treated then butyl between treated and fiberglass box, screw it all down together. The wheel wells do not have this issue, there must have been some changes in the aluminum structure at the rear. The generator box fits flat but the back side has some differences in the angled area but not as much of a problem as the propane box.

 

[ScottC]

Well hoping around, I figured before I get the propane box in I need to get the awning mounted so I could reinforce the bottom mount inside the propane box which has led me to the top seam. PO had removed screws at one point and left 2 broken ones, they then replaced with stainless sheet metal screws. As you can see they never cleaned the rail and just added some silicone in spots, took me days to get the original putty out, removed the 2 broken screws and cleaned the rail, I was able to tap the screw holes with 10-24 threads.

 

[ScottC]

Finished the passenger side and now working on install of older Zip Dee awning. Used Dicor 551LSW1 White Non-Sag for caps, 3/16" x 1/2" Closed End Aluminum Blind Rivets with Steel Mandrel and Dicor for awning attachment.

 

[ScottC]

Got the awning on over the weekend, as I stated before I picked up a used Zip Dee that was missing some parts, picked up the missing parts at Zip Dee on my way back from GMCMI Convention in Chippewa Falls, cleaned up aluminum the best I could, powder coated end mounts and had a black Sunbrella awning made by my local Amish Canvas Shop. I do have the brown & tan awning material available for sale if anybody needs it. I also have a New 18' Carefree tube, black material and LED strip light available.

 

[ScottC]

Wow 6 months since last post none of this stuff is in order. Finished up the propane tank, cleaned everything up and painted with Appliance Epoxy, had to make a new piece of floor out of 3/4" treated plywood that I routed and painted before install, the only thing we are keeping propane for is stove/oven, grill and firepit maybe.

 

[kidjedi]

I love that appliance epoxy. Tough as nails, easy to find (on the shelf at big box store), and cheap!

Looking good!

 

[ScottC]

Sealed up door and windows using Jim Bounds suggestions, 1st gen windows and they still leak at seam where the water channel meets the bottom of frame, finally found pictures of frame assembly and wow no wonder they leak, going to try and stop leaks with some crack seal, if I have to pull the windows I will probably look for newer replacements instead of trying to seal the old style frame.

 

[ScottC]

Added Carter electric fuel pump, Wix filter and moved all including selector switch out side frame rail before our trip to Fall Convention. Used some uni-strut for use of existing bolts in frame and allow parking brake cable to run behind plate. Fuel pump is ran off of Aux tank switch only if needed, usually run it for cold starts, was not needed for trip to convention, also have mechanical 3 port with return line to fill tube.

 

[ScottC]

Getting started on my Onan 6K generator, looks like I have got a lot of work ahead of me. Going to start tonight with basics, compression, spark and fuel. She turns over my hand so not frozen, feels like it has decent compression but will hook up battery tonight and get some compression numbers. Looks like the mounts are so bad that the sliders are twisting, definitely needs a re-wire, battery cable is split were it comes through base plate, board appears fried, needs a muffler and front seal.

 

[pvfjr]

Looks like a bit of a project, but I think they're generators worth saving. Man has that board seen better days! Might be salvageable still, but there's no shortage of bad components on there. What do the traces look like? Plenty of corrosion in other places.

It seems someone has monkeyed with some of the wiring already too. Seems to have a custom rectifier job as well. Fortunately you don't really need the board to test the generator. You can just bypass it and ensure the gen is worth saving first. Have fun!