The Ferrigno Family's 1976 Palm Beach

FiTech's surge tank looked like a good upgrade.... BUT the high pressure pump and regulator is inside the surge tank. So the excess fuel from the regulator was just dumped back into the surge tank. The same fuel was going round and round in that little container causing the fuel to heat up... alot!
Once it was modified to dump the fuel back to the main tanks it work ok.
 
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FiTech's surge tank looked like a good upgrade.... BUT the high pressure pump and regulator is inside the surge tank. So the excess fuel from the regulator was just dumped back into the surge tank. The same fuel was going round and round in that little container causing the fuel to heat up... alot!
Once it was modified to dump the fuel back to the main tanks it work ok.

Good example of the law of conservation of energy
 
I got some seals replaced this week. I did a lot of fooling around with the fuel sender setup, but no pics yet.
National 6712NA for the torque converter
National 470380V for the right axle
SKF 17746 for the left axle

Things to note:
  • The right axle seal was originally a two-piece assembly. The seal went in first, but the seal also had a big groove in its face. Tapped into that groove was a seal protector cage of sorts. This is for the long axle. I imagine that was there to help folks align the axle, and to keep them from dinging up the seal while installing the axle shaft. In lieu of this, I suppose I'll just have to exercise some care instead.
  • The left axle seal was originally complex. On the inside it had a lot of extra structure. Baffles to keep oil at bay, since the seal was vented. The new seal is conventional, and is not vented. I will be adding a vent nipple with a hose to the diff cover, and will baffle it on the inside.
  • There were crusty deposits behind all the old seals. It seemed like the kind of carbonized oil gunk you get in an engine. I'm guessing the oil was not changed often, and the older oils just didn't perform like today's oils. I'll also add a drain plug to the diff cover so I can change the oil more often with little effort.




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I got some seals replaced this week. I did a lot of fooling around with the fuel sender setup, but no pics yet.
National 6712NA for the torque converter
National 470380V for the right axle
SKF 17746 for the left axle

Things to note:
  • The right axle seal was originally a two-piece assembly. The seal went in first, but the seal also had a big groove in its face. Tapped into that groove was a seal protector cage of sorts. This is for the long axle. I imagine that was there to help folks align the axle, and to keep them from dinging up the seal while installing the axle shaft. In lieu of this, I suppose I'll just have to exercise some care instead.
  • The left axle seal was originally complex. On the inside it had a lot of extra structure. Baffles to keep oil at bay, since the seal was vented. The new seal is conventional, and is not vented. I will be adding a vent nipple with a hose to the diff cover, and will baffle it on the inside.
  • There were crusty deposits behind all the old seals. It seemed like the kind of carbonized oil gunk you get in an engine. I'm guessing the oil was not changed often, and the older oils just didn't perform like today's oils. I'll also add a drain plug to the diff cover so I can change the oil more often with little effort.




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Is this on the 3.21 FD?
 
Hmm, I thought they vented the cover on the 3.07 and the seal on the 3.21.
That would make some sense. I've been wondering why there are two venting methods. This one wasn't vented through the cover, but the cover does have the pinhole for it. Perhaps it's been tampered with.
 
A new problem arose. I started lightly planning the wiring phase, and looked at the ECM connector from the harness pieces I have, and the ECM I have. They don't match! Ugh. Three years since I've bought this stuff, and I just thought they went together. I found the two connector shells on ebay, and some Delphi series 100 micro-pack pins to go with them. I think those are the right ones. Looks like this harness will be 100% built from scratch. It costs me time, but at least it will all be fresh and new.

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We got the new engine winched up into place from below, and bolted it in place with the front mount. The load leveling bar was a pain when we pulled the old motor, so mods were made. I cut the useless crank handle off and welded on a 3/4" nut. I also modded the lead screw and added a roller thrust bearing at each end. Wow, what a difference! It was a real pleasure to use the drill powered winch and leveler pair this time around.
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I also finished my fuel pump module for the main(rear) tank. That tank should be getting installed tonight. I forgot to take pics of the whole thing before I installed it into the tank. I'll try to get some pics of the one I build for the aux tank. I did take some video, so here's a couple poor screenshots instead.
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The fuel output and vent lines are all hooked up with compression fittings and hard lines. The ends of the hard lines are "flared" for the click-on quick connect fittings, where I'll be attaching nylon lines. I expect a long service life out of these.

This particular fuel sender I cannibalized had an extra fuel return line, so it's plugged with a cut-off 5/16" bolt stuff in its compression fitting. Something I can undo at a later date if I choose.
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A new problem arose. I started lightly planning the wiring phase, and looked at the ECM connector from the harness pieces I have, and the ECM I have. They don't match! Ugh. Three years since I've bought this stuff, and I just thought they went together. I found the two connector shells on ebay, and some Delphi series 100 micro-pack pins to go with them. I think those are the right ones. Looks like this harness will be 100% built from scratch. It costs me time, but at least it will all be fresh and new.

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We got the new engine winched up into place from below, and bolted it in place with the front mount. The load leveling bar was a pain when we pulled the old motor, so mods were made. I cut the useless crank handle off and welded on a 3/4" nut. I also modded the lead screw and added a roller thrust bearing at each end. Wow, what a difference! It was a real pleasure to use the drill powered winch and leveler pair this time around.
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There's a guy near me with a complete chevy 454 TBI system for sale, $300, he parts out late 90s chevy/gmc trucks, lmk if you want his number
 
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Acquiring a torque converter has turned into a whole issue. So far, I'm unimpressed with Applied's handling of my order (or the lack thereof). Hopefully they get it together soon so I can get my trans installed and start my engine. Oh how I wish the starter just bolted to the engine block!

My TBI adapter adapter prototype is done. The model got a bit messy, but I was trying not to get bogged down with perfection here. It'll work, and it looks conducive to much better flow than the other options I've seen. All the bore edges line up within 10-15 thou, so that's good.
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I also made an insert for our oil filler cap, since it's one of the unmarked variety and looks too much like a radiator cap. It's got raised letters, so hopefully it'll stay legible even with some grime on it. The printer was having a bad day so it's not perfect, but it'll do. The wife wants this coach to be "wife friendly", so that's why we're doing fuel injection and such. This follows that theme.

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The main fuel tank is all done. Generator pickup is updated to ni-copp with a quick-connect flare for nylon tubing. The vapor line nipple is brazed, and has nylon tubing fitted to it. The fuel pump output and vent line have steel and ni-copp respectively, with compression fittings at the tank center, and quick-connect flares at the tank edge. These will have nylon lines clicked onto them as well. I've also got a nice pigtail length soldered to the fuel pump and sender wires for later connections.

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We got the main tank installed as well. It's nice to see things going in, rather than coming out.
 
The little man got to hang out for a couple hours. He mocked up the TBI with the new bolts, got to use Loctite, and bolted the flex plate on. Unfortunately 60 ft-lbs wasn't in the cards for him, so I had to take over, much to his chagrin.


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Got the engine off the trolley and onto an engine support bar. There's a little room to work now.

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I also got out the piston stop. I figured it couldn't hurt to verify the timing marks. White dot between the pink marks landed exactly on the 0 degree tick mark, so we're dead on. Good to know.

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The main fuel tank is all done. Generator pickup is updated to ni-copp with a quick-connect flare for nylon tubing. The vapor line nipple is brazed, and has nylon tubing fitted to it. The fuel pump output and vent line have steel and ni-copp respectively, with compression fittings at the tank center, and quick-connect flares at the tank edge. These will have nylon lines clicked onto them as well. I've also got a nice pigtail length soldered to the fuel pump and sender wires for later connections.

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We got the main tank installed as well. It's nice to see things going in, rather than coming out.

Santa brought me the Mastercool hydraulic flare tool that does those quick connect fuel line flares. And he was kind enough to also bring me the nylon fuel line tool as well. He's quite a guy. I've only repaired two fuel lines so far and have to say, it's the only way to go.
 
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Well last year I redid all of the brake lines. Now it's getting all new fuel lines, vent lines, and vapor lines. Also adding the TBI return and doing the high-tee mod for the vents. I'll have to check the vapor separator while I'm at it and make sure it works. Maybe I'll draw a vacuum on the canister to make sure it's ok too. All in all, I think I can prevent as few surprises for the next few years.

I did a lot of the fuel fittings tonight. I used the Mastercool dies with a vise grip and an arbor press. That's my favorite new method. No heat or grease like I've seen other folks do in desperation.

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I don't have the second tank in, but the pressure lines have all been run. The old selector valve has been removed, and what I'm calling the fuel combiner has replaced it. It's just a couple Carter check valves teed together with some street elbows and barbs. I'm still just roughing things in, and will get it all sheathed and secured.

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I replaced the Carbon Cannister (just because it was 45yo so I figured it was done) and added an electric purge control valve to be controlled by the EBL. I figured I paid for those gas fumes so I might as well get the energy out of them!
I will put together a document and post in Resources with part numbers.
 
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Well last year I redid all of the brake lines. Now it's getting all new fuel lines, vent lines, and vapor lines. Also adding the TBI return and doing the high-tee mod for the vents. I'll have to check the vapor separator while I'm at it and make sure it works. Maybe I'll draw a vacuum on the canister to make sure it's ok too. All in all, I think I can prevent as few surprises for the next few years.

I did a lot of the fuel fittings tonight. I used the Mastercool dies with a vise grip and an arbor press. That's my favorite new method. No heat or grease like I've seen other folks do in desperation.

View attachment 10885

I don't have the second tank in, but the pressure lines have all been run. The old selector valve has been removed, and what I'm calling the fuel combiner has replaced it. It's just a couple Carter check valves teed together with some street elbows and barbs. I'm still just roughing things in, and will get it all sheathed and secured.

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I see a business opportunity here... PVFJR's Custom Fuel and Brake Lines !
 
I see a business opportunity here... PVFJR's Custom Fuel and Brake Lines !
If only there was time...
I do rather enjoy making the lines for some reason. There's something satisfying about it.

I kinda played hooky this weekend. Three days of birthday related stuff for my daughter, other family things, more cake making. She's 9 already! Yikes. I gotta get this thing on the road and start living life with it before it's too late! She's in a big national park phase too, and wanted a "Junior Ranger" cake. Not sure what that was, so I just kinda winged it. She properly identified the tracks and the scat, so I guess she's a qualified ranger! 😆 Then she requested the scat for her slice, haha.

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On a somewhat GMC related note, I got a "new" tool! This one will fit much larger parts than my old one.

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I did a little work last week before having to stop and prep for the camping trip. The focus has been on prepping the transmission and final drive for reinstallation. The speedo output bullet got a new o-ring, and a new seal inside itself. It seems there is a circlip of sorts that holds the seal in its bore, and it's just a friction fit. I hadn't had one of these apart before, and was surprised to find no groove. It's lasted this long, so I suppose it's fine.
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The diff cover was heavily pitted, and dented. I also didn't like the whole vented gasket design. I decided to add a proper vent in the cover with a baffle (a 1" freeze plug, though the next size up might have been nice). I added a drain plug while I was at it. Nice, thick weldable bungs make it easier to get a drip-proof weld. If it ever leaks, I guess I'll be coming back with JB. I feel good about these ones though.
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I gave the cover a good pounding with a mallet against some wood blocks. The dents came out nicely. As for the pitting, well, it was obvious that paint did a poor job of protecting this from rock chips and rust over the years. I decided to make this my first powder coating project. It's a good item to practice on, since it's not primarily cosmetic in nature.

First came some media blasting, which revealed a fill level and fill angle marking I never knew existed. The thermostat housing came along for the ride as well. I'm still using my old blasting cabinet instead of the new one, much to my chagrin. It's very difficult to see and do a good job. I'm looking forward to the upgrade.
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Here's the only pic of the baffle. The upper rim of the freeze plug is welded, so oil won't dribble or flow downward across the vent opening. The lower part of the rim is left open, with about a 1/16" gap half way around. The gap is also raised up off the wall due to the weld fillet below it, which should help keep oil flows moving across the cover from veering inside. Maybe. It vents well, I guess time will tell how good it is at keeping oil out.
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And the finished product, complete with powder coating. Obviously the pitting still shines through. I didn't feel like buying Lab Metal so I could smooth it out with a conductive filler. It's just a diff cover, after all. The finish bonded well, both cohesively and adhesively. It feels great--smooth and slick. The fill level stamping still shows up well too.
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The thermostat housing taught me some lessons about intricate shapes, narrow gaps, and electric fields. It wasn't a great candidate for powder coating with the equipment I have. It still looks a lot better than it did, and was a valuable experiment.
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