1973 GMC 26' Glacier Build

[ScottC]

Bump, Bump, Bump......still looking for guidance on the front timing cover/oil pan seal, being I an not dropping the pan I think I need to trim the seal and use RTV, let me know how you guys did it. I also have not had time to look for the chain oiler.

 

[ScottC]

I found the oiler and feel stupid for not noticing it when I pulled the gear, for those that do not not know it is behind the cam gear at about 10 o'clock behind the fuel pump lever, cleaned it out with welding wire and brake clean. As far as the cover/pan seal did not get any replies and have not found anything online so I will just Get R Done. I am on delay with the timing cover because I discovered the oil slinger is cracked and need to order another one.

 

[Matt Colie]

Scott,
An apology, I intended to tell you about that oiler when when I was watching what you were doing. If you ever hat the engine out, there is another like that in the rear to oil the distributor drive.
I have never seen a slinger cracked like that.
Matt

 

[ScottC]

Scott,
An apology, I intended to tell you about that oiler when when I was watching what you were doing. If you ever hat the engine out, there is another like that in the rear to oil the distributor drive.
I have never seen a slinger cracked like that.
Matt

Yep, I have no idea why it would be cracked, seems very odd

 

[Matt Colie]

Scott,
If you have a have any trouble getting a replacement, I might have one in the junk engine that I have here. I won't be able to get it out real fast and I am not even sure it is still there. Let me know.
Matt

 

[ScottC]

Scott,
If you have a have any trouble getting a replacement, I might have one in the junk engine that I have here. I won't be able to get it out real fast and I am not even sure it is still there. Let me know.
Matt

Thanks Matt!, I actually ordered one and hoping it will get here tomorrow so I can try and get the damn timing cover installed.....

 

[ScottC]

Ok got my new oil slinger from Ebay and after reading what I could find on the actual installation of an Oldsmobile timing cover I believe one of comments was "It is the hardest thing you can do" being the cover is supposed to go on before the pan. The only tips I found was to grind (file) the bottom of the pins and trim the seal, I did both these items and decided to go for it, I put my RTV where it is needed and off I went.....I fought that cover for 1/2 hour before I gave up with drying RTV, covered in sweat and extremely frustrated with my failure, had to walk away. Day 2: I did a little more custom trimming of the top of the seal, grabbed 2 longer punches, warmed the seal up (oven) and went for it again, RTV then angled the bottom of cover in, used punches in the 2 bottom bolt holes to get enough leverage to push cover down, over the pins and in, quickly ran 2 bolts into holes above pins to hold it, installed water pump then pulled bottom bolts out and installed engine mount.....VICTORY! What a PITA!!!

 

[pvfjr]

Good job persevering. It can be hard to return after being forced to walk away for sake of sanity.
When you say you trimmed the seal, can you elaborate? Pics? I haven't encountered this, but it may be in my future.

 

[Matt Colie]

Scott,
If you have not gotten much farther than the picture, think about the oil that leaks onto that front mount is what makes them go bad.
When I was there, I though about it long enough to make an aluminum umbrella out of flashing. Unfortunately, it will be decades before I (or the SO) knows if it did any good.
Matt

 

[ScottC]

Good job persevering. It can be hard to return after being forced to walk away for sake of sanity.
When you say you trimmed the seal, can you elaborate? Pics? I haven't encountered this, but it may be in my future.

Paul, unfortunately I was "in the moment" and did not take pictures but below is a drawing, just make sure the areas in the top corners are clean & dry before applying RTV, squeeze some RTV in the oil pan gasket and timing cover gasket meet. Will mine leak? probably, only time will tell, lol.

 

[ScottC]

Finished cleaning out the lifter valley, got the block off kit from Dick Paterson, followed Dick's instructions including making a guide pin out of a 3/8-16 bolt. Ended up using a lift plate, some chain and a piece of Uni Strut and two of us carefully lowered manifold into place, worked great.

 

[Matt Colie]

Scott,
You won't hear anybody that knows fault you for using rigging to hand that thing.
Matt - BTDT

 

[ScottC]

Valve covers back on and torqued to 7 ft lbs. should I be posting pictures in the body of message or attach files as thumbnail?

 

[ScottC]

Yes I am still here, lol! Summer is always very busy for us so I have only been able to work on the coach a little. Got new water pump, alternator and belts, went ahead an picked up a double belt pulley for alternator but not using it yet.

 

[ScottC]

Added drain plug to final drive cover and tranny pan, final drive cover will be swapped in on first fluid change, the one in the tranny pan now has a Auto Meter temp sensor installed.

 

[Matt Colie]

Added drain plug to final drive cover and tranny pan, final drive cover will be swapped in on first fluid change, the one in the tranny pan now has a Auto Meter temp sensor installed.

Scott,
Both look really good. Did you look up magnetic drain plugs for them? If not, you should.
You do know that the final drive lube might want to get changed in a decade or so? It doesn't get that hot and the only thing that can contaminate it (no combustion by-products and no clutch dust) is metal coming off places it should stay and changing the lube won't help that.
Matt

 

[ScottC]

Thanks for the advise on changing the final drive cover, being it is a new 3.70 I figured I would change it after a few thousand miles just because. The tranny has a temp sensor in the bung but I did add an AC Delco magnet to the pan. I covered the fuel line with heat sleeves and I added same sleeves to the new tranny lines near the exhaust manifolds.

 

[ScottC]

Installed aluminum radiator from Superior (JimK Allied), I not sure if I mentioned it before I called Griffin and they wanted $1,400 shipped, I also installed a stacked plate tranny cooler from a Ford F250 (junkyard).

 

[tmsnyder]

Installed aluminum radiator from Superior (JimK Allied), I not sure if I mentioned it before I called Griffin and they wanted $1,400 shipped, I also installed a stacked plate tranny cooler from a Ford F250 (junkyard).

Is that a drop-in fit for the old radiator? How much was it?

 

[ScottC]

Is that a drop-in fit for the old radiator? How much was it?

Yes the fit was good, it was tricky for me because I have not swapped one out before and my radiator frame is far from perfect. As far as cost, I paid $815 and I just looked, he is up to (Holy Sh$t)) $999.98 for it!