ws visor

W

wayne newland

New member
Jul 5, 1999
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A couple of days ago I was reading a message about removing the
windshield visor. Whether it was a message or in someones page, I don't
remember. I have decided to remove my headliner to paint instead of
painting overhead. (Is this a big misteak?)

Yes, the nut is tight and the further down it comes, the tighter it
gets. Am I going to be sorry that I started this - especially when I
try to start the nut back up?

Wayne Newland F9300 75 Palm Beach
 
Manny

Thanks for the reply..

No rust. The long nut seems to be binding on the shaft holding the passengers
side sun visor. It' like the round bar isn't straight and the nut has gone down
as far as it can go and bound up. I'd hate to force it out and not be able to
get it back in.

Wayne

> In a message dated 8/2/99 3:25:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time, wayne

>
> windshield visor. Whether it was a message or in someones page, I don't
> remember. I have decided to remove my headliner to paint instead of
> painting overhead. (Is this a big misteak?)
>
> Yes, the nut is tight and the further down it comes, the tighter it
> gets. Am I going to be sorry that I started this - especially when I
> try to start the nut back up? >>
>
> I removed mine and painted it.
> Make sure you have a helper during removal and installation.
> While the headliner is out, it might be a good idea to put some insulation up
> there.
> Mine had none.
> The threads may have some rust. Once out, some wd40 will help go back in.
>
> Manny Trovao
> 73 Custom/ex-Glacier
 
I just had my headliner out and repainted it. While it was
out I could see what the visor is connected to. A large nut
is welded up there. The large bolt like thing you're trying
to unscrew is screwed up in that large nut. You have to keep
the visor stationary and unscrew the bolt. The visor shaft
sits inside the bolt and is held in place by a spring. I thought
the passenger side was the hardest to get out. You have to be
patient and unscrew it "counter clockwise" a little bit at a time.
It will come out. The thread is about 3/4" long if I remember
correctly. It's almost as much fun to get it back on. I still have my
passenger side to get back in.
Richard Waters '76 PB (supposed to leave on Saturday and the
headliner is still not done)

> Manny
>
> Thanks for the reply..
>
> No rust. The long nut seems to be binding on the shaft holding the passengers
> side sun visor. It' like the round bar isn't straight and the nut has gone down
> as far as it can go and bound up. I'd hate to force it out and not be able to
> get it back in.
>
> Wayne
>

>
> > In a message dated 8/2/99 3:25:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time, wayne

> >
> > > windshield visor. Whether it was a message or in someones page, I don't
> > remember. I have decided to remove my headliner to paint instead of
> > painting overhead. (Is this a big misteak?)
> >
> > Yes, the nut is tight and the further down it comes, the tighter it
> > gets. Am I going to be sorry that I started this - especially when I
> > try to start the nut back up? >>
> >
> > I removed mine and painted it.
> > Make sure you have a helper during removal and installation.
> > While the headliner is out, it might be a good idea to put some insulation up
> > there.
> > Mine had none.
> > The threads may have some rust. Once out, some wd40 will help go back in.
> >
> > Manny Trovao
> > 73 Custom/ex-Glacier
 
Richard

Thanks for the reply.....I went back and kept at it - it did finally come out. The
driver's side was much easier. If I had started there, I wouldn't have ask for help.
Next, to get my wife to help me remove the front cap so I can repair a couple of small
cracks around the screw holes for the curtain track and paint it real purty.

Wayne

> I just had my headliner out and repainted it. While it was
> out I could see what the visor is connected to. A large nut
> is welded up there. The large bolt like thing you're trying
> to unscrew is screwed up in that large nut. You have to keep
> the visor stationary and unscrew the bolt. The visor shaft
> sits inside the bolt and is held in place by a spring. I thought
> the passenger side was the hardest to get out. You have to be
> patient and unscrew it "counter clockwise" a little bit at a time.
> It will come out. The thread is about 3/4" long if I remember
> correctly. It's almost as much fun to get it back on. I still have my
> passenger side to get back in.
> Richard Waters '76 PB (supposed to leave on Saturday and the
> headliner is still not done)
>

>
> > Manny
> >
> > Thanks for the reply..
> >
> > No rust. The long nut seems to be binding on the shaft holding the passengers
> > side sun visor. It' like the round bar isn't straight and the nut has gone down
> > as far as it can go and bound up. I'd hate to force it out and not be able to
> > get it back in.
> >
> > Wayne
> >

> >
> > > In a message dated 8/2/99 3:25:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time, wayne

> > >
> > > > > windshield visor. Whether it was a message or in someones page, I don't
> > > remember. I have decided to remove my headliner to paint instead of
> > > painting overhead. (Is this a big misteak?)
> > >
> > > Yes, the nut is tight and the further down it comes, the tighter it
> > > gets. Am I going to be sorry that I started this - especially when I
> > > try to start the nut back up? >>
> > >
> > > I removed mine and painted it.
> > > Make sure you have a helper during removal and installation.
> > > While the headliner is out, it might be a good idea to put some insulation up
> > > there.
> > > Mine had none.
> > > The threads may have some rust. Once out, some wd40 will help go back in.
> > >
> > > Manny Trovao
> > > 73 Custom/ex-Glacier
 
Justin

I really hadn't given it a lot of real thought. I have casually read articles
about it, and I know that the prices have come down a lot. When I'm out with
the coach on business, I spend a lot of time calling on (and finding) my
distributors, so maybe now is the time. Thanks for the heads-up. I may get
back with you.

By the way....when I got my shell out there were 2 cracks where the curtin rod
holes are. I took it to a fiberglass repair shop near-by and he said the shell
wasn't fiberglass - probably ABS plastic, but he would repair them for $25. I
have no skill with fiberglass and some things I'll pay to have done. I know -
it's supposed to be easy.

Wayne

> Wayne, are you interested at all in someday installing a GPS system? Just
> returned from the Classics rally and one of the fellows had mounted his
> auxilary antenae on the front cap between it and the roof. According to him,
> it will pick up just fine through the fiberglas top. If you think you might
> install such a system, now would be an idea time to put it in place with the
> front inside cap out. I'll probably take mine out in the near future to
> install one.
> Justin
 
Justin

My wife is the computer guru in our house. I have figured out how to get on line
for my e-mail. The only trouble is...when I go out on a swing to call on
customers and distributors, she seldom is with me. To work (program) the GPS you
have to have some comfort level with a laptop. I guess I can learn.

Wayne

> Wayne, see my reply to TedPices. I'd think the GPS would be great for
> locating your customers. It's fantastic. My problem has been, and still is,
> figuring out how to make the co pilot think it was her idea.
> Justin
 
Wayne,
If I had the fiberglass job to do over again on my headliner
and there was someone who would do a good job for $25 I
would have it done. It is easy to do, but the materials alone
could cost almost $25 (I bought enough to do several GMCs).
I think some things are meant to be done by other people.
One of my fiberglass repairs (not a critical area) came apart
while I was installing the headliner. Could be that I didn't do
it right. Only time will tell.
Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
- ------

> Justin
>
> By the way....when I got my shell out there were 2 cracks where the curtin rod
> holes are. I took it to a fiberglass repair shop near-by and he said the shell
> wasn't fiberglass - probably ABS plastic, but he would repair them for $25. I
> have no skill with fiberglass and some things I'll pay to have done. I know -
> it's supposed to be easy.
 
Richard

Thanks. Now I don't feel so bad about having someone else do an easy repair. When
I dropped the cabinets in the rear, I found cracks in the cap on both sides behind
the cab. Now, do I take them out and repair them, or just paint them and let them
be?

OBTW - THERE WAS WATER DAMAGE TO THE PASS SIDE CAB. During a short heavy rain I
watched water come in where the rear shell joins the ceiling on the side. While it's
dry and not too hot, I guess I'd better get up on top and get the leak sealed.
Anybody have any positive thoughts about what works best as a sealer?

Wayne Newland F9300 75 Palm Beach

> Wayne,
> If I had the fiberglass job to do over again on my headliner
> and there was someone who would do a good job for $25 I
> would have it done. It is easy to do, but the materials alone
> could cost almost $25 (I bought enough to do several GMCs).
> I think some things are meant to be done by other people.
> One of my fiberglass repairs (not a critical area) came apart
> while I was installing the headliner. Could be that I didn't do
> it right. Only time will tell.
> Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
> ------
>

>
> > Justin
> >
> > By the way....when I got my shell out there were 2 cracks where the curtin rod
> > holes are. I took it to a fiberglass repair shop near-by and he said the shell
> > wasn't fiberglass - probably ABS plastic, but he would repair them for $25. I
> > have no skill with fiberglass and some things I'll pay to have done. I know -
> > it's supposed to be easy.
 
Wayne Newland - On the subject of the removal of the visors and ceiling
panel,
I have several comments for you. I also have my ceiling panel out and
plan to repair several splits or cracks near the edges in the area of
the fastener holes. Like you I want to do this once and do it right, so
have been snooping around for ideas. While at Cinnabar some months back
I noticed tham working on a ceiling panel and they were bonding a curved
length of flat aluminum bar on the top side apparently as a stiffener.
If curious you might want to ask Ivan Henderson about the reason for
this procedure and perhaps do likewise. Like you, I took my panel out
with the intention of painting it but while at Jim Bound's shop recently
he was covering one with "mouse fur" fuzzy cloth and foam headliner
material. He has a procedure that produces a very nicely contoured
result so I have decided to go this way for the looks and the sound
quality. If you are a heavy smoker this may not be the answer for you.
Jim also sandwiches a layer of foil/foam insulation between the panel
and the roof cap to improve the insulating qualities. Just some things
to consider now that you have the panel out.

Bob Burkitt Cincinnati '77 Palm Beach
 
Wayne,
When I dropped the rear cap I had small cracks where
the screw holes were located. I laid some fiberglasss
over each hole and drilled them out. There were a few
other minor cracks that I glassed over. After I painted
the cap and all the other plastic pieces back there (and
the whole coach I might add).

I was truly amazed at how good it looks. Just like that stuff
would have looked right off the assembly line. At this point
I say go for it and redo all the plastic stuff. Just know when
to stop as one thing will lead to another with the GMC.

Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI

> Richard
>
> Thanks. Now I don't feel so bad about having someone else do an easy repair. When
> I dropped the cabinets in the rear, I found cracks in the cap on both sides behind
> the cab. Now, do I take them out and repair them, or just paint them and let them
> be?
>
 
As a new veteran of "plastic cockpit headliner" refurbishment,
I have a few comments.

I'm not sure this procedure is for the unskilled (like me). It
sounds like you would have to know what you are doing, as
opposed to just shooting some plastic paint. However if you
have the time and skill to do it or could have it done by someone
who has done it, I'm sure the results would be fantastic.

I saw a few coaches at Buskrik's and Cinnabar where that was done
and they do look good. I just know that it would be a pain in the butt
for me to learn how to do well. The painting option is a relative
"no-brainer".

I don't know about the reinforcing strip. Jim Bounds (I think) told
me not to bother unless the headliner is sagging already.

Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
- ----

> .....................................................While at Cinnabar
> some months back
> I noticed tham working on a ceiling panel and they were bonding a curved
> length of flat aluminum bar on the top side apparently as a stiffener.
> If curious you might want to ask Ivan Henderson about the reason for
> this procedure and perhaps do likewise. Like you, I took my panel out
> with the intention of painting it but while at Jim Bound's shop recently
> he was covering one with "mouse fur" fuzzy cloth and foam headliner
> material. He has a procedure that produces a very nicely contoured
> result so I have decided to go this way for the looks and the sound
> quality.
 
Start out with a BONDO kit which you can find in most hardware/paint stores as
well as auto stores. The kit has everything you need (glass mat, resin,
activator) as well as instructions. You can buy more of the components as you
need them. It's really a piece of cake for the basics.
Gary
North Bend, Oregon Coast (Looking forward to another 70 degree scorcher)

> Richard,
> I know nothing about working with fiberglass but am willing to try. What
> brand of fiberglass would you recommend me to use to repair those panel you
> described also where to purchase it.
>
> Many Thanks,
> Ted
> Louisville, Ky
> Palm Beach 76'
>
>
> the screw holes were located. I laid some fiberglasss
> over each hole and drilled them out. There were a few
> other minor cracks that I glassed over. After I painted
> the cap and all the other plastic pieces back there (and
> the whole coach I might add).
>
> I was truly amazed at how good it looks. Just like that stuff
> would have looked right off the assembly line. At this point
> I say go for it and redo all the plastic stuff. Just know when
> to stop as one thing will lead to another with the GMC.
>
> Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
>
>
 
Richard

This started with the repalcement of the ceiling (vinyl drooping). Of course while you
are doing that, you have to re-do the side walls. And then add cable tv and cable to the
bedroom. and then addl insulation. and then the front and rear caps need to be painted to
match the new ceiling. and then new day/night shades had to be ordered (wait for them to
be made) and installed. and of course new windshield drapes and hardware. and while
doing all of this you break something and find a list of things to do. AND if you want to
use the coach in the meantime, replace the cabinets or take them in the house and clean up
the const mess. add to this - one of the hottest summers with very high humidity and
the results is slow going (but, boy am I learning a lot). And every once-in-a-while I
have to take a break and go make some money. And, oh yes, I painted all of the plastic
trim pieces around the windows. One thing leads to.......

Wayne

> Wayne,
> When I dropped the rear cap I had small cracks where
> the screw holes were located. I laid some fiberglasss
> over each hole and drilled them out. There were a few
> other minor cracks that I glassed over. After I painted
> the cap and all the other plastic pieces back there (and
> the whole coach I might add).
>
> I was truly amazed at how good it looks. Just like that stuff
> would have looked right off the assembly line. At this point
> I say go for it and redo all the plastic stuff. Just know when
> to stop as one thing will lead to another with the GMC.
>
> Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
>

>
> > Richard
> >
> > Thanks. Now I don't feel so bad about having someone else do an easy repair. When
> > I dropped the cabinets in the rear, I found cracks in the cap on both sides behind
> > the cab. Now, do I take them out and repair them, or just paint them and let them
> > be?
> >
 
I'm glad you said that Arch! Now you have given me a
2nd reason why I didn't reinforce my cap with a aluminum
bar. Besides what Jim Bounds told me, it just didn't seem to
need to be reinforced. It wasn't sagging when I took it down
and it doesn't sag now. I almost did the reinforcement when I
was repairing the cap, but couldn't figure out where to put
the aluminum bar I bought. Besides it seemed the aluminum
1/8"x2" bar was not rigid enough to do any good. Some sort
of an angle iron would have been better, but then I was
concerned with the clearance up there if I put anything stiff
enough to do any good. So I didn't do it at all!

I studied your web page on cap repair before doing it myself. It
was a great help!

Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
(2 days and counting before I have
to have my lady back together again!)

> Richard
>
> When I redid mine I talked to several people about using aluminum
> flat stock to reinforce the cap. I decided not to do it. Here is my theory.
> The ABS plastic used in the headliner and the aluminum stock have
> very different coefficients of expansion. In english that they both react to
> temperature very differently. The aluminum expands a lot more than the
> ABS plastic. I think that over time this will cause a problem. PLEASE
> this is just my theory----nothing more. You can see my headliner on
> Genes page.
 
Wayne,
Gee and I thought I was the only one that was "dumb" enough
to do all that stuff ! Good luck, as I know where you
have been and where you are going!
Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI

> Richard
>
> This started with the repalcement of the ceiling (vinyl drooping). Of course while you
> are doing that, you have to re-do the side walls. And then add cable tv and cable to the
> bedroom. and then addl insulation. and then the front and rear caps need to be painted to
> match the new ceiling. and then new day/night shades had to be ordered (wait for them to
> be made) and installed. and of course new windshield drapes and hardware. and while
> doing all of this you break something and find a list of things to do. AND if you want to
> use the coach in the meantime, replace the cabinets or take them in the house and clean up
> the const mess. add to this - one of the hottest summers with very high humidity and
> the results is slow going (but, boy am I learning a lot). And every once-in-a-while I
> have to take a break and go make some money. And, oh yes, I painted all of the plastic
> trim pieces around the windows. One thing leads to.......
>
 
Richard
there are alot of us "dummies" out here...me for one...ive got more parts
laying around....hope they find there way back on.....started headliner and
doing real well until i run up against removing the plastic moulding at
ceiling edge....how in hell does that thing come off? if you have a moment
tell me how....meantime ill search the archives...thanks jim

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-gmcmotorhome
> [mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Richard Waters
> Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 1999 11:27 AM
> To: gmcmotorhome
> Subject: Re: GMC: ws visor
>
>
> Wayne,
> Gee and I thought I was the only one that was "dumb" enough
> to do all that stuff ! Good luck, as I know where you
> have been and where you are going!
> Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
>

>
> > Richard
> >
> > This started with the repalcement of the ceiling (vinyl
> drooping). Of course while you
> > are doing that, you have to re-do the side walls. And then add
> cable tv and cable to the
> > bedroom. and then addl insulation. and then the front and rear
> caps need to be painted to
> > match the new ceiling. and then new day/night shades had to be
> ordered (wait for them to
> > be made) and installed. and of course new windshield drapes
> and hardware. and while
> > doing all of this you break something and find a list of things
> to do. AND if you want to
> > use the coach in the meantime, replace the cabinets or take
> them in the house and clean up
> > the const mess. add to this - one of the hottest summers
> with very high humidity and
> > the results is slow going (but, boy am I learning a lot). And
> every once-in-a-while I
> > have to take a break and go make some money. And, oh yes, I
> painted all of the plastic
> > trim pieces around the windows. One thing leads to.......
> >
>
 
Any one know where I can get information on temps for wheel bearings, normal
up to and including destruction temps? Spec sheet via bearing mfgs.
Educated guess, etc. Proven facts?

Roger
 
Jim,
Do you mean that 4" plastic molding that runs the length
of the coach? If so you just pry it out. There is a center
rib that is wedged into small metal "U" shaped inserts.
Start at one end and start prying and it will come loose

One of the problems is that near the center they have
notches for electrical etc. to pass through. They are
very weak there. Be careful you don't break it if you want
to save it.

I'm going to junk mine. I plan on putting some sort of
wood molding there instead. Cinnabar told me that the
plastic stuff is not available. Someone said here they used
crown molding. The crown molding I looked at is a little
too narrow.

One thing I noticed is that I have lots of screws that I don't
remember where they are supposed to go. So I'm just using
screws that look like they might fit. I'm going to have to go
out and get more at Home Depot or some similar place. I'm
leaving in a few minutes to go there now.
Richard

> Richard
> there are alot of us "dummies" out here...me for one...ive got more parts
> laying around....hope they find there way back on.....started headliner and
> doing real well until i run up against removing the plastic moulding at
> ceiling edge....how in hell does that thing come off? if you have a moment
> tell me how....meantime ill search the archives...thanks jim
>
>
 
Arch,
What did you use to replace the plastic trim you and I both
have tossed as no good? I had hoped to use crown molding
but it is too narrow by about 1/2 inch (at least the stuff I looked
at).
I need to cover the door and the area over where the bunk beds
(which I will probably never use, but kept installed anyway).
Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
- --

> Jim
>
> I am going to give you an answer many wont like. I could not get mine
> off. I did get one piece off by closing up the lady and let it get to about
> 120 degrees inside. Decided I needed help so I called one of our wise
> Gurus and ask. (He ask me not to reveal his identity so I wont) He told
> me----All you really need is a piece to go over the door---if you have that
> the he** with the rest. Best advice I was ever given. Now if you are
> going to keep a front bunkbed then you need that piece too. I ripped
> the rest of mine down.
 
Jim

Another reply told you about the rib running down the middle behind the wide
moulding. To get it off, take a wide pri-bar that has flat ends. Wrap the end
of the hook with tape. Slip it under the moulding and gently pry. There are a
lot of clips that snap into a channel and they might be rusty. Some of these
will stay in the channel and some will come off with the piece. Take a pair of
needle-nose plyers and pull out all of the clips, otherwise you won't be able
to replace the moulding. When replacing, cover a rubber malliot with a thick
cotton sock and gently pop the clips back into the channel. (Put the clips
back on the rib before reinstalling)

Wayne

> Richard
> there are alot of us "dummies" out here...me for one...ive got more parts
> laying around....hope they find there way back on.....started headliner and
> doing real well until i run up against removing the plastic moulding at
> ceiling edge....how in hell does that thing come off? if you have a moment
> tell me how....meantime ill search the archives...thanks jim
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-gmcmotorhome
> > [mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Richard Waters
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 1999 11:27 AM
> > To: gmcmotorhome
> > Subject: Re: GMC: ws visor
> >
> >
> > Wayne,
> > Gee and I thought I was the only one that was "dumb" enough
> > to do all that stuff ! Good luck, as I know where you
> > have been and where you are going!
> > Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
> >

> >
> > > Richard
> > >
> > > This started with the repalcement of the ceiling (vinyl
> > drooping). Of course while you
> > > are doing that, you have to re-do the side walls. And then add
> > cable tv and cable to the
> > > bedroom. and then addl insulation. and then the front and rear
> > caps need to be painted to
> > > match the new ceiling. and then new day/night shades had to be
> > ordered (wait for them to
> > > be made) and installed. and of course new windshield drapes
> > and hardware. and while
> > > doing all of this you break something and find a list of things
> > to do. AND if you want to
> > > use the coach in the meantime, replace the cabinets or take
> > them in the house and clean up
> > > the const mess. add to this - one of the hottest summers
> > with very high humidity and
> > > the results is slow going (but, boy am I learning a lot). And
> > every once-in-a-while I
> > > have to take a break and go make some money. And, oh yes, I
> > painted all of the plastic
> > > trim pieces around the windows. One thing leads to.......
> > >
> >
 
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