Tips for installing engine vents

kmorefield

Member
Jan 4, 2020
62
6
8
I bought some stainless engine vents from Sirum and am looking for tips on cutting the hole to install. I’ve seen the tips for installing as high
as possible, and as far back as possible. I’m thinking of figuring out the best placement, then putting masking tape down where the cut will go,
then drawing the cut outline over the tape. Drill or hole saw the corners, then a dremel with a diamond disk blade for cutting the rest. Any other
pointers? I want to get it right, as there aren’t really any do-overs!
--
1975 - 26’ Eleganza II
Unsure of what upgrades may have been done. I'm working on sorting that out in the coming months.
Ken Morefield - Redding, CA
 
Drilling a hole in the corners is a good idea. A jigsaw (saber saw) will work just as well and might be faster than a Dremel.

Emery Stora

>
> I bought some stainless engine vents from Sirum and am looking for tips on cutting the hole to install. I’ve seen the tips for installing as high
> as possible, and as far back as possible. I’m thinking of figuring out the best placement, then putting masking tape down where the cut will go,
> then drawing the cut outline over the tape. Drill or hole saw the corners, then a dremel with a diamond disk blade for cutting the rest. Any other
> pointers? I want to get it right, as there aren’t really any do-overs!
> --
> 1975 - 26’ Eleganza II
> Unsure of what upgrades may have been done. I'm working on sorting that out in the coming months.
> Ken Morefield - Redding, CA
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
Ken,

It looks as though you have done a great job thinking through this. I can only say attention to measurements, mark the masking tape and double check
before drilling and cutting.

I can't think of any thing I would do differently.

Make sure you check the back side that you are clear of anything structural or the like.

Good luck,
Tom K.
--
Tom & Oki Katzenberger,
Kingsville, Maryland,
1977 23' Birchaven, 455 C.I.D.
 
I would drill a hole, or two, somewhere in the center to probe and double check that the placement is good.
Best to start with a small hole first. easy to make it bigger and modify the location.
--
1977 Kingsley 455 as stock as it gets except lots of Ragusa parts
 
I can’t tell you how many hours I’ve sat underneath the front quarter panels eyeballing where to cut. I will only cut flat panels, nothing with a
90 degree angle on it.. I just don’t see the logic in cutting.. it would only be a couple inch of vent effectiveness to where the wheel well insert
is. And that is with the long/skinny and/or shorter/wider vents. But to be honest, I was only looking at the rear area in the quarter panel.
If anyone has data to justify cutting, I am all ears.
Scott.
--
Scott Nutter
1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi. Alex Ferrera
installed MSD Atomic EFI
Houston, Texas
 
Multi-tool is your friend here.

Milwaukee M12 12-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless Oscillating Multi-Tool
(Tool-Only)-2426-20 - The Home Depot
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Tool-Only-2426-20/203111676?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PortablePower&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PortablePower-71700000071858267-58700006317203701-92700062668014077&gclid=872c0b18305e10c50a656bde811c6a67&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=872c0b18305e10c50a656bde811c6a67

> I can’t tell you how many hours I’ve sat underneath the front quarter
> panels eyeballing where to cut. I will only cut flat panels, nothing with a
> 90 degree angle on it.. I just don’t see the logic in cutting.. it would
> only be a couple inch of vent effectiveness to where the wheel well insert
> is. And that is with the long/skinny and/or shorter/wider vents. But to
> be honest, I was only looking at the rear area in the quarter panel.
> If anyone has data to justify cutting, I am all ears.
> Scott.
> --
> Scott Nutter
> 1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final
> drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi. Alex Ferrera
> installed MSD Atomic EFI
> Houston, Texas
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
LaGrange, Wyoming
GMC=Genetically Modified Chevy
 
Before you buy ANY look a like Multi-tool.... Be sure to test it in the material you intend to cut. Some of them vibrate the handle more than the blade! If you have ever used an original Fein Multi-tool, you will be hard pressed to buy anything else.

I did eventually buy a battery powered one and got a dewalt 20V lithium battery powered one and it is ok. But if I need to cut something tough, I drag out the extension cord and use the Fein. Saw blades for these things are also expensive.

>
>
> Multi-tool is your friend here.
>
> Milwaukee M12 12-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless Oscillating Multi-Tool
> (Tool-Only)-2426-20 - The Home Depot
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Tool-Only-2426-20/203111676?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PortablePower&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PortablePower-71700000071858267-58700006317203701-92700062668014077&gclid=872c0b18305e10c50a656bde811c6a67&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=872c0b18305e10c50a656bde811c6a67
>

>
> > I can’t tell you how many hours I’ve sat underneath the front quarter
> > panels eyeballing where to cut. I will only cut flat panels, nothing with a
> > 90 degree angle on it.. I just don’t see the logic in cutting.. it would
> > only be a couple inch of vent effectiveness to where the wheel well insert
> > is. And that is with the long/skinny and/or shorter/wider vents. But to
> > be honest, I was only looking at the rear area in the quarter panel.
> > If anyone has data to justify cutting, I am all ears.
> > Scott.
> > --
> > Scott Nutter
> > 1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final
> > drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi. Alex Ferrera
> > installed MSD Atomic EFI
> > Houston, Texas
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >
>
>
> --
> Bruce Hart
> 1976 Palm Beach
> LaGrange, Wyoming
> GMC=Genetically Modified Chevy
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
I would consider using a large hole saw at each end so there are no stress
corners.

On Sun, Jun 13, 2021 at 10:17 PM RICHARD/MARLI SHOOP
wrote:

> Before you buy ANY look a like Multi-tool.... Be sure to test it in the
> material you intend to cut. Some of them vibrate the handle more than the
> blade! If you have ever used an original Fein Multi-tool, you will be hard
> pressed to buy anything else.
>
> I did eventually buy a battery powered one and got a dewalt 20V lithium
> battery powered one and it is ok. But if I need to cut something tough, I
> drag out the extension cord and use the Fein. Saw blades for these things
> are also expensive.

> >
> >
> > Multi-tool is your friend here.
> >
> > Milwaukee M12 12-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless Oscillating Multi-Tool
> > (Tool-Only)-2426-20 - The Home Depot
> > <
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Tool-Only-2426-20/203111676?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PortablePower&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PortablePower-71700000071858267-58700006317203701-92700062668014077&gclid=872c0b18305e10c50a656bde811c6a67&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=872c0b18305e10c50a656bde811c6a67
> >
> >
> > On Sun, Jun 13, 2021 at 7:13 PM Scott Nutter

> >
> > > I can’t tell you how many hours I’ve sat underneath the front quarter
> > > panels eyeballing where to cut. I will only cut flat panels, nothing
> with a
> > > 90 degree angle on it.. I just don’t see the logic in cutting.. it
> would
> > > only be a couple inch of vent effectiveness to where the wheel well
> insert
> > > is. And that is with the long/skinny and/or shorter/wider vents. But
> to
> > > be honest, I was only looking at the rear area in the quarter panel.
> > > If anyone has data to justify cutting, I am all ears.
> > > Scott.
> > > --
> > > Scott Nutter
> > > 1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21
> final
> > > drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi. Alex Ferrera
> > > installed MSD Atomic EFI
> > > Houston, Texas
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Bruce Hart
> > 1976 Palm Beach
> > LaGrange, Wyoming
> > GMC=Genetically Modified Chevy
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>

--

*John Phillips*
 
I'd leave mine like it's been for the past 45 years -- with no vents. I
have only the outer half of each front wheel well liner in place, so maybe
my engine compartment cooling doesn't require side vents, but it seems to
stay pretty cool.

JWID,

Ken H.

On Sun, Jun 13, 2021 at 6:05 PM Ken Morefield
wrote:

> I bought some stainless engine vents from Sirum and am looking for tips on
> cutting the hole to install. I’ve seen the tips for installing as high
> as possible, and as far back as possible. I’m thinking of figuring out
> the best placement, then putting masking tape down where the cut will go,
> then drawing the cut outline over the tape. Drill or hole saw the
> corners, then a dremel with a diamond disk blade for cutting the rest. Any
> other
> pointers? I want to get it right, as there aren’t really any do-overs!
> --
> 1975 - 26’ Eleganza II
> Unsure of what upgrades may have been done. I'm working on sorting that
> out in the coming months.
> Ken Morefield - Redding, CA
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
I just don't run the fender liners, Maybe someday I'll put them back in
________________________________
From: John Phillips
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2021 12:23 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: [GMCnet] Re: Tips for installing engine vents

I would consider using a large hole saw at each end so there are no stress
corners.

On Sun, Jun 13, 2021 at 10:17 PM RICHARD/MARLI SHOOP
wrote:

> Before you buy ANY look a like Multi-tool.... Be sure to test it in the
> material you intend to cut. Some of them vibrate the handle more than the
> blade! If you have ever used an original Fein Multi-tool, you will be hard
> pressed to buy anything else.
>
> I did eventually buy a battery powered one and got a dewalt 20V lithium
> battery powered one and it is ok. But if I need to cut something tough, I
> drag out the extension cord and use the Fein. Saw blades for these things
> are also expensive.

> >
> >
> > Multi-tool is your friend here.
> >
> > Milwaukee M12 12-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless Oscillating Multi-Tool
> > (Tool-Only)-2426-20 - The Home Depot
> > <
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Tool-Only-2426-20/203111676?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PortablePower&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PortablePower-71700000071858267-58700006317203701-92700062668014077&gclid=872c0b18305e10c50a656bde811c6a67&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=872c0b18305e10c50a656bde811c6a67
> >
> >
> > On Sun, Jun 13, 2021 at 7:13 PM Scott Nutter

> >
> > > I can’t tell you how many hours I’ve sat underneath the front quarter
> > > panels eyeballing where to cut. I will only cut flat panels, nothing
> with a
> > > 90 degree angle on it.. I just don’t see the logic in cutting.. it
> would
> > > only be a couple inch of vent effectiveness to where the wheel well
> insert
> > > is. And that is with the long/skinny and/or shorter/wider vents. But
> to
> > > be honest, I was only looking at the rear area in the quarter panel.
> > > If anyone has data to justify cutting, I am all ears.
> > > Scott.
> > > --
> > > Scott Nutter
> > > 1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21
> final
> > > drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi. Alex Ferrera
> > > installed MSD Atomic EFI
> > > Houston, Texas
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Bruce Hart
> > 1976 Palm Beach
> > LaGrange, Wyoming
> > GMC=Genetically Modified Chevy
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>

--

*John Phillips*
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
Seems like an absolute waste. If that air does not exit there, it simple exits under the coach. Radiator temp not changed as intake air same. Plus
the boat vents are the WRONG format as too long. Only half of it is functional as rest is blocked once installed, which is then too small to even
help. It’s totally a “makes you think it helps” thing. The Explorer brand conversion GM conversion vans have a much better (taller less long)
shaped vent that would be a better choice if ever to consider. Rant over.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
Ive mulled this over as well....no extra holes for me yet....my post on here even discussed the possibility of using fans to assist the vents.
--
Rich Mondor,

Brockville, ON

77 Hughes 2600
 
My first GMC had a nice set of engine vents installed. Little known to my new guy status, there was a typical marine compartment axial blower
installed to power vent the engine compartment. It had an elaborate electronic control panel consisting of era specific relays, sensors, etc. to
control the engaging of the motor of the powered vent. I did have a hand sketch of the wiring, but was of dubious value.
I was pumping gas the first time I encountered it in action. Thought the coach was on fire.
I replaced the wiring with a simple dash switch. Engaging the axial blower would drop the temperature gauge immediately. Worked very nicely in the Hot
Deep South Summers.

--
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
 
This is the one vent that I have seen in the last 20 years or so and the one that I have on the coaches that We have owned. IMPO it is the best one to use.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/attwood--stainless-steel-louvered-vent--1364900

At one time there used to be a how to on installation but have not found it.

J.R. Wright
GMC Great Laker MHC
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMC Eastern States Charter Member
GMCMI
78 GMC Buskirk 29.5’ Stretch
75 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan

>
> My first GMC had a nice set of engine vents installed. Little known to my new guy status, there was a typical marine compartment axial blower
> installed to power vent the engine compartment. It had an elaborate electronic control panel consisting of era specific relays, sensors, etc. to
> control the engaging of the motor of the powered vent. I did have a hand sketch of the wiring, but was of dubious value.
> I was pumping gas the first time I encountered it in action. Thought the coach was on fire.
> I replaced the wiring with a simple dash switch. Engaging the axial blower would drop the temperature gauge immediately. Worked very nicely in the Hot
> Deep South Summers.
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> 2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
> KA4CSG
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
> This is the one vent that I have seen in the last 20 years or so and the one that I have on the coaches that We have owned. IMPO it is the best
> one to use.
>
> https://www.westmarine.com/buy/attwood--stainless-steel-louvered-vent--1364900
>
> At one time there used to be a how to on installation but have not found it.
>
> J.R. Wright
> GMC Great Laker MHC
> GMCGL Tech Editor
> GMC Eastern States Charter Member
> GMCMI
> 78 GMC Buskirk 29.5’ Stretch
> 75 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
> Michigan

That is the one I have on our coach. WOW, 15 yrs ago it did not cost that much! When on the road, and we stop for fuel, I can feel the heat coming
out those vents. At least, standing still, they sure seem to work. Can't speak for traveling down the road. JMHO
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
When installed on boats, one is installed facing
forward (for intake) and the other is installed
facing rearward (for exhaust) to vent any fumes
from the engine room. while the boat is in motion.

Engine room blowers (to prevent explosions of fuel
fumes) take air from the intakes and push the fumes
to the exhaust outlet.

The operator is supposed to run the blowers for five
minutes after refueling before restarting the engines.

This is for noise abatement (grin) of the noise create
by explosions.

D C "Mac" Macdonald
Amateur Radio K2GKK
Since 30 November '53
USAF and FAA, Retired
Member GMCMI & Classics
Oklahoma City, OK
"The Money Pit"
TZE166V101966
'76 ex-Palm Beach
k2gkk + hotmail dot com
________________________________
From: Larry
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2021 13:58
To: gmclist
Subject: [GMCnet] Re: Tips for installing engine vents

> This is the one vent that I have seen in the last 20 years or so and the one that I have on the coaches that We have owned. IMPO it is the best
> one to use.
>
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.westmarine.com%2Fbuy%2Fattwood--stainless-steel-louvered-vent--1364900&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cc7539d3e752d493de3cc08d931c25855%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637595533035436774%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=LOPqSOlcxzEu2aaA5FQ8paGNFxX2C%2BW5bZ33Cz3WVGE%3D&reserved=0
>
> At one time there used to be a how to on installation but have not found it.
>
> J.R. Wright
> GMC Great Laker MHC
> GMCGL Tech Editor
> GMC Eastern States Charter Member
> GMCMI
> 78 GMC Buskirk 29.5’ Stretch
> 75 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
> Michigan

That is the one I have on our coach. WOW, 15 yrs ago it did not cost that much! When on the road, and we stop for fuel, I can feel the heat coming
out those vents. At least, standing still, they sure seem to work. Can't speak for traveling down the road. JMHO
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
Back in 1990 I got some nice looking stainless steel vents and put them into the side. I must say that when you stopped you could certainly feel a lot of hot air coming out of them. However, I never knew if they did anything when driving down the road.

A few years back I installed some of Darren Paget's insulating blanket pads under my floor and engine box cover. That really deadened the noise and the floor was much cooler. However, I then found that I was starting to get vapor lock which I had never encountered in several previous years.

An examination of this new problem revealed that the fender liners have a "standoff" where the screw goes up into the floor above the liner. If you examine this closely you will see that the liners have a "scoop" on the front which brings air up and over the liner and down to the back. This is something like an airplane wing shape and the air going over the liner (think wing) is going a farther distance in the same amount of time as the air under the liner (think wing). This creates a low pressure zone at the top which in the case of a wing gives lift. I feel that in the case of the fender liner the lower pressure will pull the heat from the manifolds which are adjacent to the wheel liner. When I blocked this passage with the insulation it no longer pulled air over the liners and air from the motor box so I started to experience overheating and vapor lock.

My solution was install some louvers in the wheel liners (house foundation block vents) and also to put some scoops under the bumper (house rectangle to 4" round duct adapters from Home Depot. The ducts have some aluminum dryer hose that goes to the back top corners of the engine box to force cool air into the top of the box which in turn pushes out the hot air.

All I know is that it has worked extremely well. I live in the hot southwest and often travel in 120 degree temperatures while pulling a toad and have never had any vapor lock since doing my modifications.

You can see this at:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=3093 http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=3093

They are not in the original order but there are not many pictures.
Emery Stora
emerystora

>
> I just don't run the fender liners, Maybe someday I'll put them back in
> ________________________________
> From: John Phillips
> Sent: Monday, June 14, 2021 12:23 AM
> To: gmclist
> Subject: [GMCnet] Re: Tips for installing engine vents
>
> I would consider using a large hole saw at each end so there are no stress
> corners.
>
> On Sun, Jun 13, 2021 at 10:17 PM RICHARD/MARLI SHOOP

>
>> Before you buy ANY look a like Multi-tool.... Be sure to test it in the
>> material you intend to cut. Some of them vibrate the handle more than the
>> blade! If you have ever used an original Fein Multi-tool, you will be hard
>> pressed to buy anything else.
>>
>> I did eventually buy a battery powered one and got a dewalt 20V lithium
>> battery powered one and it is ok. But if I need to cut something tough, I
>> drag out the extension cord and use the Fein. Saw blades for these things
>> are also expensive.

>>>
>>>
>>> Multi-tool is your friend here.
>>>
>>> Milwaukee M12 12-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless Oscillating Multi-Tool
>>> (Tool-Only)-2426-20 - The Home Depot
>>> <
>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Tool-Only-2426-20/203111676?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PortablePower&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PortablePower-71700000071858267-58700006317203701-92700062668014077&gclid=872c0b18305e10c50a656bde811c6a67&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=872c0b18305e10c50a656bde811c6a67
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jun 13, 2021 at 7:13 PM Scott Nutter

>>>
>>>> I can’t tell you how many hours I’ve sat underneath the front quarter
>>>> panels eyeballing where to cut. I will only cut flat panels, nothing
>> with a
>>>> 90 degree angle on it.. I just don’t see the logic in cutting.. it
>> would
>>>> only be a couple inch of vent effectiveness to where the wheel well
>> insert
>>>> is. And that is with the long/skinny and/or shorter/wider vents. But
>> to
>>>> be honest, I was only looking at the rear area in the quarter panel.
>>>> If anyone has data to justify cutting, I am all ears.
>>>> Scott.
>>>> --
>>>> Scott Nutter
>>>> 1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21
>> final
>>>> drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi. Alex Ferrera
>>>> installed MSD Atomic EFI
>>>> Houston, Texas
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Bruce Hart
>>> 1976 Palm Beach
>>> LaGrange, Wyoming
>>> GMC=Genetically Modified Chevy
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>
>
>
> --
>
> *John Phillips*
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
> When installed on boats, one is installed facing
> forward (for intake) and the other is installed
> facing rearward (for exhaust) to vent any fumes
> from the engine room. while the boat is in motion.

Soooo, we actually have one of the vents installed wrong? Got both of mine facing back.....????
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
You might try reversing one and see if it helps.
That is just the way it is done on ALL boats.

Mac Macdonald in OKC, OK
'76 ex Palm Beach, now mongrel

Sent from my iPad

>

>> When installed on boats, one is installed facing
>> forward (for intake) and the other is installed
>> facing rearward (for exhaust) to vent any fumes
>> from the engine room. while the boat is in motion.
>
> Soooo, we actually have one of the vents installed wrong? Got both of mine facing back.....????
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
Larry
Are you driving a boat?
You have air coming in from your grille. A boat doesn’t have any incoming air to the hull. Leave the vents like they are.

Emery Stora

>

>> When installed on boats, one is installed facing
>> forward (for intake) and the other is installed
>> facing rearward (for exhaust) to vent any fumes
>> from the engine room. while the boat is in motion.
>
> Soooo, we actually have one of the vents installed wrong? Got both of mine facing back.....????
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
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