OK, progress update: I put in the new ignition switch, and it helped… somewhat. With battery boost, i can start the engine, in certain tilt positions. Now there’s no more need to turn the key 2x, however, the "sweet spot" is very elusive, definitely affected by wheel tilt,
So i’m not out of the woods yet. And... its starting to look like i have (4) separate minor issues that all finally added up to the major fail, last night.
1) Ignition switch, I’m gonna try adjusting it tomorrow, based on Charles’ suggestions
> Try raising the tilt wheel to make the rod pull further. Next remove the lower dash cover and try loosening the 2 screws that hold the ignition switch vertically to the column under the dash and slide the switch down toward the floor bout 1/4" or so and tighten the 2 screws back down. You can also try holding the key in the start position as you move the tranny leaver thru the gears from full park to low and see if it turns over anywhere. If you are still experiencing problems chances are you have an internal problem. The plastic gear or the rack gear is broke or the housing is busted or the tumbler is broke.
2) the tumbler was always a little bit “loose”… But now, the whole mechanism moves about 3/4” with the turn of the key
(maybe part of this is because the new ignition switch needs some adjustment?)
I don’t see any way to tighten the tumbler(?)… so maybe i should replace this while i’m at it (not expensive)
Autozone has the tumbler in stock, and they also loan out the steering wheel removal tool.
Any caveats on doing this job? I watched it being done, years ago, but didn’t take notes.
> Did you cross the small terminal on the solenoid with the large terminal on there?
> --- If you did and it cranked. then the starter is not your issue. (today)
hey Matt, backing up, Yes, large to small terminal and it started. So… both the starter and solenoid are probably OK?
3) I’m a bit concerned about the small wire terminal, turning internally when i tried to tighten it.
I’m guessing this is a causing a bit more resistance.
4) Lastly, the one battery cell that was super low on water… i brought it up to the proper level, and i have the battery
on a 10 amp charge tonight. Its an old reliable Sears charger, and the light goes green when it detects a fully charged battery. (Do engine start batteries respond to 15.2 volt Equalization charges, same as deep cycle batteries do?)
We’ll see if i can get it to crank without battery boost tmrw. If not, then i’m gonna have to look more closely at replacing the starter/solenoid. The Duralast starter/solenoid combo has the lifetime warranty, and i have a spare here at home anyway, so no need to swap just the solenoid, since it’d surely void the warranty
Recapping the (4) different problems: Its hard to believe that up until last week, the worst thing i experienced was having to turn the key twice, ha! But long story / short, i’m getting ready to possibly sell this custom 21’ Birchhaven (and get back to simple one-coach Eleganza living), So gotta start by making it turn-key!
Thanks again, everybody, More news tomorrow, cheers
Greg / SolarSonic / Los Angeles
So i’m not out of the woods yet. And... its starting to look like i have (4) separate minor issues that all finally added up to the major fail, last night.
1) Ignition switch, I’m gonna try adjusting it tomorrow, based on Charles’ suggestions
> Try raising the tilt wheel to make the rod pull further. Next remove the lower dash cover and try loosening the 2 screws that hold the ignition switch vertically to the column under the dash and slide the switch down toward the floor bout 1/4" or so and tighten the 2 screws back down. You can also try holding the key in the start position as you move the tranny leaver thru the gears from full park to low and see if it turns over anywhere. If you are still experiencing problems chances are you have an internal problem. The plastic gear or the rack gear is broke or the housing is busted or the tumbler is broke.
2) the tumbler was always a little bit “loose”… But now, the whole mechanism moves about 3/4” with the turn of the key
(maybe part of this is because the new ignition switch needs some adjustment?)
I don’t see any way to tighten the tumbler(?)… so maybe i should replace this while i’m at it (not expensive)
Autozone has the tumbler in stock, and they also loan out the steering wheel removal tool.
Any caveats on doing this job? I watched it being done, years ago, but didn’t take notes.
> Did you cross the small terminal on the solenoid with the large terminal on there?
> --- If you did and it cranked. then the starter is not your issue. (today)
hey Matt, backing up, Yes, large to small terminal and it started. So… both the starter and solenoid are probably OK?
3) I’m a bit concerned about the small wire terminal, turning internally when i tried to tighten it.
I’m guessing this is a causing a bit more resistance.
4) Lastly, the one battery cell that was super low on water… i brought it up to the proper level, and i have the battery
on a 10 amp charge tonight. Its an old reliable Sears charger, and the light goes green when it detects a fully charged battery. (Do engine start batteries respond to 15.2 volt Equalization charges, same as deep cycle batteries do?)
We’ll see if i can get it to crank without battery boost tmrw. If not, then i’m gonna have to look more closely at replacing the starter/solenoid. The Duralast starter/solenoid combo has the lifetime warranty, and i have a spare here at home anyway, so no need to swap just the solenoid, since it’d surely void the warranty
Recapping the (4) different problems: Its hard to believe that up until last week, the worst thing i experienced was having to turn the key twice, ha! But long story / short, i’m getting ready to possibly sell this custom 21’ Birchhaven (and get back to simple one-coach Eleganza living), So gotta start by making it turn-key!
Thanks again, everybody, More news tomorrow, cheers
Greg / SolarSonic / Los Angeles
