Stranded: Ignition switch, key switch or starter

[ek_lektro]

OK, progress update: I put in the new ignition switch, and it helped… somewhat. With battery boost, i can start the engine, in certain tilt positions. Now there’s no more need to turn the key 2x, however, the "sweet spot" is very elusive, definitely affected by wheel tilt,
So i’m not out of the woods yet. And... its starting to look like i have (4) separate minor issues that all finally added up to the major fail, last night.

1) Ignition switch, I’m gonna try adjusting it tomorrow, based on Charles’ suggestions

> Try raising the tilt wheel to make the rod pull further. Next remove the lower dash cover and try loosening the 2 screws that hold the ignition switch vertically to the column under the dash and slide the switch down toward the floor bout 1/4" or so and tighten the 2 screws back down. You can also try holding the key in the start position as you move the tranny leaver thru the gears from full park to low and see if it turns over anywhere. If you are still experiencing problems chances are you have an internal problem. The plastic gear or the rack gear is broke or the housing is busted or the tumbler is broke.

2) the tumbler was always a little bit “loose”… But now, the whole mechanism moves about 3/4” with the turn of the key
(maybe part of this is because the new ignition switch needs some adjustment?)
I don’t see any way to tighten the tumbler(?)… so maybe i should replace this while i’m at it (not expensive)
Autozone has the tumbler in stock, and they also loan out the steering wheel removal tool.
Any caveats on doing this job? I watched it being done, years ago, but didn’t take notes.

> Did you cross the small terminal on the solenoid with the large terminal on there?
> --- If you did and it cranked. then the starter is not your issue. (today)

hey Matt, backing up, Yes, large to small terminal and it started. So… both the starter and solenoid are probably OK?

3) I’m a bit concerned about the small wire terminal, turning internally when i tried to tighten it.
I’m guessing this is a causing a bit more resistance.

4) Lastly, the one battery cell that was super low on water… i brought it up to the proper level, and i have the battery
on a 10 amp charge tonight. Its an old reliable Sears charger, and the light goes green when it detects a fully charged battery. (Do engine start batteries respond to 15.2 volt Equalization charges, same as deep cycle batteries do?)
We’ll see if i can get it to crank without battery boost tmrw. If not, then i’m gonna have to look more closely at replacing the starter/solenoid. The Duralast starter/solenoid combo has the lifetime warranty, and i have a spare here at home anyway, so no need to swap just the solenoid, since it’d surely void the warranty

Recapping the (4) different problems: Its hard to believe that up until last week, the worst thing i experienced was having to turn the key twice, ha! But long story / short, i’m getting ready to possibly sell this custom 21’ Birchhaven (and get back to simple one-coach Eleganza living), So gotta start by making it turn-key!

Thanks again, everybody, More news tomorrow, cheers
Greg / SolarSonic / Los Angeles

 

[emerystora]

You say “We’ll see if i can get it to crank without battery boost tmrw. If not, then i’m gonna have to look more closely at replacing the starter/solenoid. “

I would think that you would want to consider replacing the battery. Because if it will start with the boost but not with your engine battery that has charged all night it sure seems that it is a battery problem and not a starter/ solenoid problem.

Emery Stora

>
> We’ll see if i can get it to crank without battery boost tmrw. If not, then i’m gonna have to look more closely at replacing the starter/solenoid.

 

[ek_lektro]

Well here’s the update,… and i wish it was better news.
Having now tried the 3 main suspects in the system
1) good/working battery swapped from other RV
2) new ignition switch
3) new starter / new solenoid (needed to be swapped eventually, due to a stripped solenoid connection, the nut on the small post just turns..
(i really thought this iffy connection was gonna be my problem!)

All that, and we get nothing more than a solenoid click, even with battery boost.
So,,, assuming (and this is a big assumption) that Autozone gave me a good starter, and good ignition switch,,
What’s the next step?

1) the ignition key tumbler?
(would like to avoid embarking on this project if at all possible, pulling the steering wheel,)…,
so is there a test i can do to rule the ignition tumbler out?) (or is the click enough to prove its doing its job?
or does this also pass electricity, might have internal resistance?)

2) further experimenting with adjusting the ignition switch(?)
but i’ve adjusted it up and down, and with different wheel tilt positions and not experiencing any difference.. just the click

3) something else in the wiring?? i’m going to take a closer look at the alarm kill switch,
but i don’t think this is it, since i don’t think it would even pass power for a solenoid click.
And forgive my ignorance, but the "ignition module"(?)… This would not prevent the motor from turning over, right?
just stop it from firing up?

Unrelated issue? After i jumped the solenoid posts with a screwdriver, and started driving it home; 10 miles into the drive,
i noticed that the idle was extraordinarily high. sitting at a traffic light, had to hold the brake down tight. put it in neutral and it was racingd crazy. couldn’t diagnose it on the road, especially since i wasn’t sure i could get the thing started again! made it home. started it up that evening with warm engine. idled 10 minutes in the driveway with no issue. inspected the accelerator cable, spring, carb adjusting screw (on a 1yr old rebuilt carb); everything looks normal! Weird.

OK, Any new insights or tests to perform would be well appreciated!
Many thanks,l
Greg / Los Angeles

 

[emerystora]

Be sure to check your battery posts for a good clean connection. Also check the negative battery cable where it connects to the passenger side of the engine block.

Emery Stora

>
> Well here’s the update,… and i wish it was better news.
> Having now tried the 3 main suspects in the system
> 1) good/working battery swapped from other RV
> 2) new ignition switch
> 3) new starter / new solenoid (needed to be swapped eventually, due to a stripped solenoid connection, the nut on the small post just turns..
> (i really thought this iffy connection was gonna be my problem!)
>
> All that, and we get nothing more than a solenoid click, even with battery boost.
> So,,, assuming (and this is a big assumption) that Autozone gave me a good starter, and good ignition switch,,
> What’s the next step?
>
> 1) the ignition key tumbler?
> (would like to avoid embarking on this project if at all possible, pulling the steering wheel,)…,
> so is there a test i can do to rule the ignition tumbler out?) (or is the click enough to prove its doing its job?
> or does this also pass electricity, might have internal resistance?)
>
> 2) further experimenting with adjusting the ignition switch(?)
> but i’ve adjusted it up and down, and with different wheel tilt positions and not experiencing any difference.. just the click
>
> 3) something else in the wiring?? i’m going to take a closer look at the alarm kill switch,
> but i don’t think this is it, since i don’t think it would even pass power for a solenoid click.
> And forgive my ignorance, but the "ignition module"(?)… This would not prevent the motor from turning over, right?
> just stop it from firing up?
>
> Unrelated issue? After i jumped the solenoid posts with a screwdriver, and started driving it home; 10 miles into the drive,
> i noticed that the idle was extraordinarily high. sitting at a traffic light, had to hold the brake down tight. put it in neutral and it was racingd crazy. couldn’t diagnose it on the road, especially since i wasn’t sure i could get the thing started again! made it home. started it up that evening with warm engine. idled 10 minutes in the driveway with no issue. inspected the accelerator cable, spring, carb adjusting screw (on a 1yr old rebuilt carb); everything looks normal! Weird.
>
> OK, Any new insights or tests to perform would be well appreciated!
> Many thanks,l
> Greg / Los Angeles
>
>
>
>
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