Squealing power steering

jim d.

New member
Dec 23, 2017
107
0
0
As the title of this thread says. My power steering pulley is squealing like a stuck pig. I'm sure it
Needs to be replaced soon but here's a quick synopsis of the events leading up to this. We were driving yesterday and we threw the alternator belt. No
biggie we had just pulled into a casino for the night when it happened and there were more than ample parts stores in the area. Wake up,hit NAPA grab
a replacement for all the belts and go change out the damaged belt. Installed the belt in the parking lot fire the coach back up go to pull away and
the power steering is screaming bloody murder. Now i never took off the actual power steering belt just the A/C belt to get the alternator belt on.
The belt seems to have the right amount of tension but clearly something changed when I installed the new belt. All belts are in there respective
grooves. Other than that I'm not really sure what to do.
Thanks JimD
--
Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis
NH natives
1975 GMC “Palm Beach” ,455, her names Linda
Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and unusual parts of the country.
 
You seem to have a different belt system from stock. The stock belt system has a single belt driving the Alt. and P/S.
The belts today vary in width and if too narrow, will cause them to slip.

Here is a link to info in determining if a belt will work or not.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/alternator-belt-maint/p41721-use-the-correct-belt.html

This post by JimK may also help for tightening:
http://gmc.mybirdfeeder.net/GMCforum/index.php?t=msg&goto=322134&rid=5019&srch=Belt+width

If you have a different belt/pulley system, then all bets are off and you will have to do some digging at the nearest parts house to figure out what
you have. I would suggest an old dirty parts house/shop or a NAPA store that have real car people and will help you do research.
--
Patti & Jerry Burt
73 Gmc 26' Canyon Lands -
77 Palm Beach
Members: FMCA - GMCMI - GMCWS
 
I’m pretty sure I have the stock setup. The forward most belt closest to the radiator drives the A/C. Middle for the power steering and the inner most belt for the alternator.

Sent from my iPhone

>
> You seem to have a different belt system from stock. The stock belt system has a single belt driving the Alt. and P/S.
> The belts today vary in width and if too narrow, will cause them to slip.
>
> Here is a link to info in determining if a belt will work or not.
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/alternator-belt-maint/p41721-use-the-correct-belt.html
>
> This post by JimK may also help for tightening:
> http://gmc.mybirdfeeder.net/GMCforum/index.php?t=msg&goto=322134&rid=5019&srch=Belt+width
>
> If you have a different belt/pulley system, then all bets are off and you will have to do some digging at the nearest parts house to figure out what
> you have. I would suggest an old dirty parts house/shop or a NAPA store that have real car people and will help you do research.
> --
> Patti & Jerry Burt
> 73 Gmc 26' Canyon Lands -
> 77 Palm Beach
> Members: FMCA - GMCMI - GMCWS
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
FWIW the ones Ive looked at had the two belts on the PS pump pulley but only one of them goes to the alternator.

are you sure its not the alternator pulley squealing?
 
Then you need to check that the pump is not seized or tighten the belt. If you are out of belt adjustment, the belt is stretched and needs to be
replaced.

I think you will find you have a double pulley on your pump and there was a double pulley Alt. on there at one time.

> I'm pretty sure I have the stock setup. The forward most belt closest to the radiator drives the A/C. Middle for the power steering and the inner
> most belt for the alternator.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

--
Patti & Jerry Burt
73 Gmc 26' Canyon Lands -
77 Palm Beach
Members: FMCA - GMCMI - GMCWS
 
Jim,

Try loosening both the alternator and power steering adjustment bolts. Push the power steering pump away from the engine (do not push on the reservoir) as far as possible tightening up the belts and lock it down. Then push the alternator as far away from the engine as possible then tighten it down.

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808


-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Jim DeMellia
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2018 10:03 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Squealing power steering

I’m pretty sure I have the stock setup. The forward most belt closest to the radiator drives the A/C. Middle for the power steering and the inner most belt for the alternator.

Sent from my iPhone

>
> You seem to have a different belt system from stock. The stock belt system has a single belt driving the Alt. and P/S.
> The belts today vary in width and if too narrow, will cause them to slip.
>
> Here is a link to info in determining if a belt will work or not.
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/alternator-belt-maint/p41721-use-the-correct-belt.html
>
> This post by JimK may also help for tightening:
> http://gmc.mybirdfeeder.net/GMCforum/index.php?t=msg&goto=322134&rid=5019&srch=Belt+width
>
> If you have a different belt/pulley system, then all bets are off and you will have to do some digging at the nearest parts house to figure out what
> you have. I would suggest an old dirty parts house/shop or a NAPA store that have real car people and will help you do research.
> --
> Patti & Jerry Burt
> 73 Gmc 26' Canyon Lands -
> 77 Palm Beach
> Members: FMCA - GMCMI - GMCWS
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Here is probably what is going on. You got a replacement belt from NAPA. NAPA's standard belts are made by Gates. A few years back Gates stopped
making the 7/16" wide belts that you require. They kept the same numbers but inserted 3/8" wide belts in the packages. If you look at the small
print on the package it will say 9.5mm. The one you need is 11mm. Now you have one belt across the PS pulley that is 7/16" and one that is 3/8".
Take a look at both belts where thy cross the water pump pulley. You will see that one is riding lower in the pulley groove that the other one.

Get another brand alternator belt that is 7/16" wide. Take a 10 mm open end wrench with you when you go to get a replacement belt. If it will fit
across the belt, the belt is too narrow.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
From parts interchange book:
You can use an Industrial belt, it is a hefty belt and built to stricter
tolerances.
Napa # A56.

> Here is probably what is going on. You got a replacement belt from NAPA.
> NAPA's standard belts are made by Gates. A few years back Gates stopped
> making the 7/16" wide belts that you require. They kept the same numbers
> but inserted 3/8" wide belts in the packages. If you look at the small
> print on the package it will say 9.5mm. The one you need is 11mm. Now
> you have one belt across the PS pulley that is 7/16" and one that is 3/8".
> Take a look at both belts where thy cross the water pump pulley. You will
> see that one is riding lower in the pulley groove that the other one.
>
> Get another brand alternator belt that is 7/16" wide. Take a 10 mm open
> end wrench with you when you go to get a replacement belt. If it will fit
> across the belt, the belt is too narrow.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
 
Read here

http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/BELTS.html

> From parts interchange book:
> You can use an Industrial belt, it is a hefty belt and built to stricter
> tolerances.
> Napa # A56.
>

>
> > Here is probably what is going on. You got a replacement belt from NAPA.
> > NAPA's standard belts are made by Gates. A few years back Gates stopped
> > making the 7/16" wide belts that you require. They kept the same numbers
> > but inserted 3/8" wide belts in the packages. If you look at the small
> > print on the package it will say 9.5mm. The one you need is 11mm. Now
> > you have one belt across the PS pulley that is 7/16" and one that is
> 3/8".
> > Take a look at both belts where thy cross the water pump pulley. You
> will
> > see that one is riding lower in the pulley groove that the other one.
> >
> > Get another brand alternator belt that is 7/16" wide. Take a 10 mm open
> > end wrench with you when you go to get a replacement belt. If it will
> fit
> > across the belt, the belt is too narrow.
> > --
> > Ken Burton - N9KB
> > 76 Palm Beach
> > Hebron, Indiana
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Bruce Hart
> 1976 Palm Beach
> Milliken, Co
> GMC=Got More Class
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
 
Thanks fellas. Ken I think that’s the info I was looking for. I’ll find the nearest parts store and track down a dayco belt. The new belt is definitely a 10mm

Sent from my iPhone

>
> Read here
>
>
> http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/BELTS.html
>
>

>>
>> From parts interchange book:
>> You can use an Industrial belt, it is a hefty belt and built to stricter
>> tolerances.
>> Napa # A56.
>>

>>>
>>> Here is probably what is going on. You got a replacement belt from NAPA.
>>> NAPA's standard belts are made by Gates. A few years back Gates stopped
>>> making the 7/16" wide belts that you require. They kept the same numbers
>>> but inserted 3/8" wide belts in the packages. If you look at the small
>>> print on the package it will say 9.5mm. The one you need is 11mm. Now
>>> you have one belt across the PS pulley that is 7/16" and one that is
>> 3/8".
>>> Take a look at both belts where thy cross the water pump pulley. You
>> will
>>> see that one is riding lower in the pulley groove that the other one.
>>>
>>> Get another brand alternator belt that is 7/16" wide. Take a 10 mm open
>>> end wrench with you when you go to get a replacement belt. If it will
>> fit
>>> across the belt, the belt is too narrow.
>>> --
>>> Ken Burton - N9KB
>>> 76 Palm Beach
>>> Hebron, Indiana
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Bruce Hart
>> 1976 Palm Beach
>> Milliken, Co
>> GMC=Got More Class
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> --
> Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
> “Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
> -------
> http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/
> Alternator Protection Cable
> http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Those are 1/2" wide be;ts. How do they work for you? Do you need to change all 3 belts to 1/2"? I have one that needs to be changed. I think I'll
try one. Well actually 2 because I have a double pulley alternator.

Ken B.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Wasn't sure if I should open a new thread for this so I'm just going to post here. Good news found some belts a Dayco and some Gates for spares and
power steering works fine. Bad news is we are currently at a garage in Malad,Idaho because there is some knocking going on and it doesn't sound good.
Shop won't be able to check it out till Monday but I'm no mechanic but have been around cars long enough where I'm no holding high hopes of the engine
being salvageable without a rebuild. Hopefully I'm wrong and I'm told otherwise, but I'm trying to plan for the worst. I spoke to Larry Foote and a
few other GMCers in the area for reputable shops. Downside is that my standard Good Sam membership only got us as far as 45mins in the wrong
direction of Salt Lake City because I found that a lot of the shops in the area weren't comfortable with having to remove the engine if needed. The
other huge problem is the tow bill to get down to salt lake would have taken a few bucks away from us to put towards repair bills.
My question is what are some options I should consider if I need a new motor
Find a good machine shop that'll rebuild our current motor?
Find a used 455?
Swap to a caddy 500 if ones available?
We've got around $9k left of our 1 yr travel fund. I figured this is going to eat up atleast $7k if the engine needs to be yanked. Which leaves some
travel money to get us back to NH from here. Any help or advise would be great. I've got 3 days to marinate on all the possible ideas and outcomes.
Thanks everyone.
Jim And Jen the nomads
--
Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis
NH natives
1975 GMC “Palm Beach” ,455, her names Linda
Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and unusual parts of the country.
 
S and J in Spokane.
Jim Hupy

> Wasn't sure if I should open a new thread for this so I'm just going to
> post here. Good news found some belts a Dayco and some Gates for spares and
> power steering works fine. Bad news is we are currently at a garage in
> Malad,Idaho because there is some knocking going on and it doesn't sound
> good.
> Shop won't be able to check it out till Monday but I'm no mechanic but
> have been around cars long enough where I'm no holding high hopes of the
> engine
> being salvageable without a rebuild. Hopefully I'm wrong and I'm told
> otherwise, but I'm trying to plan for the worst. I spoke to Larry Foote and
> a
> few other GMCers in the area for reputable shops. Downside is that my
> standard Good Sam membership only got us as far as 45mins in the wrong
> direction of Salt Lake City because I found that a lot of the shops in the
> area weren't comfortable with having to remove the engine if needed. The
> other huge problem is the tow bill to get down to salt lake would have
> taken a few bucks away from us to put towards repair bills.
> My question is what are some options I should consider if I need a new
> motor
> Find a good machine shop that'll rebuild our current motor?
> Find a used 455?
> Swap to a caddy 500 if ones available?
> We've got around $9k left of our 1 yr travel fund. I figured this is going
> to eat up atleast $7k if the engine needs to be yanked. Which leaves some
> travel money to get us back to NH from here. Any help or advise would be
> great. I've got 3 days to marinate on all the possible ideas and outcomes.
> Thanks everyone.
> Jim And Jen the nomads
> --
> Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis
> NH natives
> 1975 GMC “Palm Beach” ,455, her names Linda
> Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and unusual parts of the country.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
I figured I’d get a couple S&J read a couple posts with you and others praising there build quality.

Sent from my iPhone

>
> S and J in Spokane.
> Jim Hupy
>

>>
>> Wasn't sure if I should open a new thread for this so I'm just going to
>> post here. Good news found some belts a Dayco and some Gates for spares and
>> power steering works fine. Bad news is we are currently at a garage in
>> Malad,Idaho because there is some knocking going on and it doesn't sound
>> good.
>> Shop won't be able to check it out till Monday but I'm no mechanic but
>> have been around cars long enough where I'm no holding high hopes of the
>> engine
>> being salvageable without a rebuild. Hopefully I'm wrong and I'm told
>> otherwise, but I'm trying to plan for the worst. I spoke to Larry Foote and
>> a
>> few other GMCers in the area for reputable shops. Downside is that my
>> standard Good Sam membership only got us as far as 45mins in the wrong
>> direction of Salt Lake City because I found that a lot of the shops in the
>> area weren't comfortable with having to remove the engine if needed. The
>> other huge problem is the tow bill to get down to salt lake would have
>> taken a few bucks away from us to put towards repair bills.
>> My question is what are some options I should consider if I need a new
>> motor
>> Find a good machine shop that'll rebuild our current motor?
>> Find a used 455?
>> Swap to a caddy 500 if ones available?
>> We've got around $9k left of our 1 yr travel fund. I figured this is going
>> to eat up atleast $7k if the engine needs to be yanked. Which leaves some
>> travel money to get us back to NH from here. Any help or advise would be
>> great. I've got 3 days to marinate on all the possible ideas and outcomes.
>> Thanks everyone.
>> Jim And Jen the nomads
>> --
>> Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis
>> NH natives
>> 1975 GMC “Palm Beach” ,455, her names Linda
>> Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and unusual parts of the country.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Don't know how far you are from Caldwell, but Bill and Betty Huber (Huber 1
ton front end) live there. They are GMC CASCADERS, and Blacklisters. Bill
has an Agricultural Aerial Spray Company there and many special tools for
GMCs. Worth a look.
Jim Hupy

On Fri, Apr 27, 2018, 6:52 PM Jim DeMellia
wrote:

> I figured I’d get a couple S&J read a couple posts with you and others
> praising there build quality.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>

> >
> > S and J in Spokane.
> > Jim Hupy
> >

> >>
> >> Wasn't sure if I should open a new thread for this so I'm just going to
> >> post here. Good news found some belts a Dayco and some Gates for spares
> and
> >> power steering works fine. Bad news is we are currently at a garage in
> >> Malad,Idaho because there is some knocking going on and it doesn't sound
> >> good.
> >> Shop won't be able to check it out till Monday but I'm no mechanic but
> >> have been around cars long enough where I'm no holding high hopes of the
> >> engine
> >> being salvageable without a rebuild. Hopefully I'm wrong and I'm told
> >> otherwise, but I'm trying to plan for the worst. I spoke to Larry Foote
> and
> >> a
> >> few other GMCers in the area for reputable shops. Downside is that my
> >> standard Good Sam membership only got us as far as 45mins in the wrong
> >> direction of Salt Lake City because I found that a lot of the shops in
> the
> >> area weren't comfortable with having to remove the engine if needed. The
> >> other huge problem is the tow bill to get down to salt lake would have
> >> taken a few bucks away from us to put towards repair bills.
> >> My question is what are some options I should consider if I need a new
> >> motor
> >> Find a good machine shop that'll rebuild our current motor?
> >> Find a used 455?
> >> Swap to a caddy 500 if ones available?
> >> We've got around $9k left of our 1 yr travel fund. I figured this is
> going
> >> to eat up atleast $7k if the engine needs to be yanked. Which leaves
> some
> >> travel money to get us back to NH from here. Any help or advise would be
> >> great. I've got 3 days to marinate on all the possible ideas and
> outcomes.
> >> Thanks everyone.
> >> Jim And Jen the nomads
> >> --
> >> Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis
> >> NH natives
> >> 1975 GMC “Palm Beach” ,455, her names Linda
> >> Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and unusual parts of the
> country.
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Jimmy,
I'm rooting for you guys!!
James Hupy is the guru up in your area. I would go with his recommendations.
Hopefully the knocking is curable...
You shouldn't have left San Diego.. The surf gods are getting even with you........I'll send you a care package of oysters from Florida!!
Scott.
--
Scott Nutter
1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi.
Houston, Texas
 
Not being able to hear the knocking here, I'm suggesting that this could be lots of things other than an internal engine problem. It is too much of a
coincidence to ignore the fact that you threw or tore up a belt. I always think the worse and usually it is not as bad as I initially thought.

I would loosen or remove ALL of the belts. Then start then engine briefly and see if the noise is still there. If it is gone then I would look at
the various belt driven accessories and also the harmonic balancer mounted on the crank shaft. Check to make sure that bolt is tight and that the
balancer outside ring has not slipped.

Dan Gregg had a knocking sound one time at a rally. We found that the big bolt in the center of the crank was loose. Another time on Dan's coach he
had a noise after replacing the belts. We found that the AC belt was too long and the pulley would touch a bracket only when the engine was under
load. Other possibilities are water pump or fan clutch worn or loose. I heard a noise once that was the air cleaner wing nut loose.

All I am saying is to eliminate everything on the front of the engine before you go blaming the engine itself.

If it makes more noise with the belts loosened, then you probably have a worn front main bearing on the crank.

Good Luck

Ken B.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Thanks Scott. We’d both much rather be in board shorts drinking cervezas but sometimes you gotta get past a bad lime in your beer every once and awhile. And I was banking on Mr. Hupy chiming in with a suggestion. We’ll be waiting on those oysters. I’ll trade ya some Maine lobsters

Sent from my iPhone

>
> Jimmy,
> I'm rooting for you guys!!
> James Hupy is the guru up in your area. I would go with his recommendations.
> Hopefully the knocking is curable...
> You shouldn't have left San Diego.. The surf gods are getting even with you........I'll send you a care package of oysters from Florida!!
> Scott.
> --
> Scott Nutter
> 1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi.
> Houston, Texas
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Ken when I initially heard the knocking fortunately we had just pulled into=
the one campground in the town of 100 people. I spent the first hour talki=
ng with Jeff Sirum and Mike Glover back from our neck of the woods to get a=
bit of a game plan of what I could check myself. I had just changed the oi=
l to Mobil1 10w 30 and had driven maybe a 150miles on that change then the =
knocking occurred. So I drained the oil and put in fresh 20w 50 to see if i=
t was an oil pressure issue and still got the same result with the knocking=
. I pulled the drivers side valve cover because that=E2=80=99s where the s=
ound was strongest. Along with the plugs and wires individually to check if=
I had compression in those cylinders. There was nothing glaring sticking o=
ut. I also did like you said. Removed belts separately to see if the knocki=
ng subsided and it did not. I might try a few of your other suggestions wit=
h the tools I have to see if anything helps but it=E2=80=99s starting to ge=
t past any knowledge I=E2=80=99m comfortable with diagnosing. Sent fr=
om my iPhone > On Apr 27, 2018, at 8:54 PM, Ken Burton wrote: > > Not being able to hear the knocking here, I'm suggestin=
g that this could be lots of things other than an internal engine problem. =
It is too much of a > coincidence to ignore the fact that you threw or t=
ore up a belt. I always think the worse and usually it is not as bad as I=
initially thought. > > I would loosen or remove ALL of the belts. =
Then start then engine briefly and see if the noise is still there. If it =
is gone then I would look at > the various belt driven accessories and al=
so the harmonic balancer mounted on the crank shaft. Check to make sure th=
at bolt is tight and that the > balancer outside ring has not slipped. =
> > Dan Gregg had a knocking sound one time at a rally. We found tha=
t the big bolt in the center of the crank was loose. Another time on Dan's=
coach he > had a noise after replacing the belts. We found that the AC =
belt was too long and the pulley would touch a bracket only when the engine=
was under > load. Other possibilities are water pump or fan clutch worn =
or loose. I heard a noise once that was the air cleaner wing nut loose. =
> > All I am saying is to eliminate everything on the front of the en=
gine before you go blaming the engine itself. > > If it makes mor=
e noise with the belts loosened, then you probably have a worn front main b=
earing on the crank. > > Good Luck > > Ken B. > -- > Ken=
Burton - N9KB > 76 Palm Beach > Hebron, Indiana > > _____________=
__________________________________ > GMCnet mailing list > Unsubscribe =
or Change List Options: > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist=
_list.gmcnet.org