So what did you do to your GMC today?

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If you do send your booster to Dave L, one of the issues he has is packing the booster so it is not damaged in shipping. There is a 40+ yr old plastic type of boot that surrounds the pushrod that is attached to the brake pedal. That boot is an essential part to the operation of the booster and is easily broken rendering the booster useless. That boot part is not available through any known source. Dave has developed a packaging method to preserve the integrity of that boot. Please see photos in this album from the GMC Motorhome Photo Archive for secure packaging.

Yup I'm well aware. I have one of his boosters already. He shipped it to me and I returned my core in his shipping container.

Dave had a pile of them at one of the rallies that were all junk b/c they had broken in transport to the rally. A real shame.
 
If you do send your booster to Dave L, one of the issues he has is packing the booster so it is not damaged in shipping. There is a 40+ yr old plastic type of boot that surrounds the pushrod that is attached to the brake pedal. That boot is an essential part to the operation of the booster and is easily broken rendering the booster useless. That boot part is not available through any known source. Dave has developed a packaging method to preserve the integrity of that boot. Please see photos in this album from the GMC Motorhome Photo Archive for secure packaging.
Does anyone have pictures of this plastic boot? I've not had my booster off before. Is it conceivable to 3D print one? It sounds like it's worth the work if it saves Dave's pile of broken boosters. If I could get a broken one in hand, I could probably come up with something.
 
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Does anyone have pictures of this plastic boot? I've not had my booster off before. Is it conceivable to 3D print one? It sounds like it's worth the work if it saves Dave's pile of broken boosters. If I could get a broken one in hand, I could probably come up with something.
I would think it is best to contact Dave L directly so that you get the clear information on what you need. My guess is that he has a number of broken boots that he could send to you. JWIT
 
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On another topic, I got to use my GMC for a youth event this week.

We had about 50-60 kids from the local youth group doing an around-the-town scavenger hunt/challenge. They were all allowed to sign up to ride with whichever driver/vehicle they wanted, and I ended up with a full dozen kids! Made 15-20 stops over the course of an hour, with all the kids piling in and out. Had a well stocked fridge and freezer, music and lights. Good times. Somehow came in second place against all the vehicles that were more nimble.

I have a feeling this will become an annual expectation.

Preceding this, I rearranged everything in the electrical/utility cabinet. I had that extra false wall that they put in some years, sitting in front of the old power converter I think? Anyway, it made the breaker box and water heater switch & outlet consume all the space in the cabinet. I changed the shore cord over to a side-entry in the breaker box, removed the extra wall/divider from the cabinet, put the breaker panel back on the other wall, detached/relocated the outlet/switch box, and made room for my Xantrex converter/inverter. I haven't decided whether I want to mount the remote controller somewhere visible yet. Previously, I couldn't fit the Xantrex in any orientation. Now, I think I still have room for an automatic transfer switch and a solar controller!

I still need to wire the inverter output into the breaker box and add a chassis ground, but at least it's functioning as a nice converter for now.
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I still need to wire the inverter output into the breaker box and add a chassis ground, but at least it's functioning as a nice converter for now.
Paul,
Since all the outlets are on one circuit breaker and that's all I want my inverter to power.... I disconnected the feed wire from that breaker and pulled it out of the box and wired it to the transfer switch output of my Samlex EVO convertor/inverter. Then I wired the power input from the Samlex to get power from that breaker.

In this way the same breaker powers the outlets as before and when there is no shore power, the Samlex powers all the outlets as I desired. No inverter power gets fed to the roof AC or water heater.

JWID
 
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Paul,
Since all the outlets are on one circuit breaker and that's all I want my inverter to power.... I disconnected the feed wire from that breaker and pulled it out of the box and wired it to the transfer switch output of my Samlex EVO convertor/inverter. Then I wired the power input from the Samlex to get power from that breaker.

In this way the same breaker powers the outlets as before and when there is no shore power, the Samlex powers all the outlets as I desired. No inverter power gets fed to the roof AC or water heater.

JWID
That's the plan, I just wanted to make sure my microwave is on the same circuit first. I think that'll be the wife's #1 use case for the inverter.
 
Thanks! This gives me some things really to think about. I have delayed installing inverter because I am never quite sure how to handle the smaller inverter capacity compared to the 120v shore power.

I have two air conditioners on my gmc and I rarely run both…. But when I do??

I have been really thinking of dropping to a 30 amp 10AWG cord and separating the rear A\C. Then if I do decide to run that I can just run a 2nd cord to the power. How many times are we hooked up to a 50amp plug and there is not a 2nd 20 amp outlet next to it(or 30).

My onan is gone. So my generator capacity is not much.

I have accumulated 2 nice inverters. I have been trying to ponder how I want to install one. (Or maybe 2?)
 
Ughhh! Winter finally arrived in central Kansas. No where near as much snow as you guys up north got, but enough snow to shut down any outside work on the rig, or travel with it.
The good news is I can still work on the inside of it!
 

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Went and got my friend’s gmc started. He drove it to storage place yesterday…. Was in the 20’s yesterday when he drove it there. Today when they went to kive it inside it was zero out.

Not sure if he had a frozen fuel line or not. But primed the carb and she fired off. I did my rag over the carb to help choke it a
Little more while it warmed up.

Roads are bad…. I am surprised he waa able to drive it accross
Town yesterday without crashing or getting stuck.
 
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I've spent the past two afternoons changing the oil & filter, the transmission fluid & filter and the final drive oil.

I still need to hit all the grease fittings, then grease the Dave Lenzi front wheel bearings and swap the front tires. I might need to put brake pads on the front and maybe new shocks as well.

When you use your GMC as much as we do, all those things are necessary.

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I have 30,000 miles on the front wheel bearings on my coach, so instead of pulling and greasing them again I'm just going to swap on a pair of knuckle/hub/rotor assemblies from Lenzi.

Today I boxed up and shipped via FedEx a pair of loaded knuckles from my parts coach to Dave Lenzi for him to work his magic.
 
I have 30,000 miles on the front wheel bearings on my coach, so instead of pulling and greasing them again I'm just going to swap on a pair of knuckle/hub/rotor assemblies from Lenzi.

Today I boxed up and shipped via FedEx a pair of loaded knuckles from my parts coach to Dave Lenzi for him to work his magic.
You won't regret it. I have over 100,000 miles on my Lenzi hubs/knuckles/ bearings. I grease them through the zerk fitting per Dave's instructions every 20,000 miles (or less) and they are still as good as new.
 
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Having a flush-mount StarLink Standard Gen3/4 antenna roof-mount 3D printed. Magnetically mounted to the roof using adhered metal pads. The slight curve at the center of the roof will be compensated for by applying the adhesive to the disc while attached to the magnets/frame. The adhesive will cure with the angle "built-in".

I'll report back with the results....
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Today I greased my front wheel bearings (Dave Lenzi with the grease fitting, grooved spacer, etc). Its a rather involved, messy job, but it has kept my bearings running smooth and cool for over 100,000 miles. I also swapped my front wheels side for side and checked the front brake pads, They were good.

It seemed like everything came due at once.
 
I replaced the oil cooler adapter seal with a Parker 02-230 as recommended here by Rob Mueller:

Another seal that will work is a Dorman 917-036 which no one had stock of around here. Its a bit thicker and needs to be stretched a bit to fit in place (not fun in cramped working conditions). I found the parker seal in stock at a small local hydraulic shop and it slipped in perfectly, but I wish it had a bit more crush.

I had just replaced it 2 years ago with a seal from a new oil filter. Both the previous seals were leaking and came out looking like this, The link above explains it is due to cold flow of the rubber seal due to it being too thick.

Deformed oil filter gasket from oil cooler adapter.webp
 
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