Getting ready to pull out new battery slide to access 2nd Lithionics battery but had to stop. Today is our 41st Anniversary and time to go to dinner.
So what did you do to your GMC today?
- Thread starter RvRev2
- Start date
Getting ready to pull out new battery slide to access 2nd Lithionics battery but had to stop. Today is our 41st Anniversary and time to go to dinner.
They're certainly convenient, and almost equally certain to crack the SMC flanges if not attached with a longer-than-you-think-necessary reinforcement backing plate or angle.
This is a much closer view of how the gas struts are installed.
The struts are fastened to the reinforcing flanges to provide a secure attachment.
Is this how you are working on the generator?
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I have to modify the the sliding battery pan to make it much easier to remove the 2nd battery if I ever have to do it again. I will have to cut out a portion of the slide.
When the slide is all the way out, the rear portion of the slide is slightly in front of the battery. I might be able to slightly lift the battery and rotate it a bit to get it in a position to pull it out.
The latch that locks the slide in place is on the section I plan to remove. I will have to reinstall it on the left side of the slide and notch out the left slide to accommodate it.
When you are innovating there are always issues that arise that you have not anticipated.
I replaced my power steering pressure hose. I had a new one made up at a local hydraulic shop (American Hose, in Tucson) for less than $40.00 in less than 10 minutes, while I waited. I'm very happy with the results.
Washed, compounded, and waxed. Cloudy day, with cool temps. Perfect weather for it.
A few days ago, I finally got an insurance policy with Agreed Value. I ended up going through a broker that used Progressive. It's still less than what I have into it, but it's something.
I pulled the onan Emerald 6500 out. I rarely use it and am tired of dragging it all over the country
399 LBS SAVED
399 LBS SAVED
My first weekend camping with the new solar setup. My first overnight the fridge and freezer consumed 80% of the battery. The solar panels started sending a charge around 7:30AM and the 280AH battery was fully charged by 10AM (before peak solar window). After re-configuring the fridge settings, the next night only 10% was consumed and even on a completely overcast day, again the battery was full by 10AM.
Now to obtain a 4KW inverter to run the microwave, ice-maker, and charge mobile toys/phones, etc. I used my "solar generator" boxes for those since I didn't have an inverter yet. Then I connect the A/C to the inverter.... At some point I will probably need a second 280AH battery if I want to operate the A/C longer than a couple of hours. Small steps....
The LED lighting and vent fans are operating from the existing house FLA batteries. I need to connect those to the lithium battery soon and remove the FLA. I'm currently running parallel power systems while evaluating.
Yes, a 2500W inverter would be enough for everything except the A/C, but A/C on battery is my goal, so I may as well get the larger inverter to start with. I will most likely rewire the breaker panel for 30A service as I have eliminated the second A/C. A 30A system is more simple and lends itself better to an inverter setup. I could invest more time and money trying to get the Onan to operate smoothly, but since I want to make it redundant, I'm going to hold off investing more resources into it for now.
Now to obtain a 4KW inverter to run the microwave, ice-maker, and charge mobile toys/phones, etc. I used my "solar generator" boxes for those since I didn't have an inverter yet. Then I connect the A/C to the inverter.... At some point I will probably need a second 280AH battery if I want to operate the A/C longer than a couple of hours. Small steps....
The LED lighting and vent fans are operating from the existing house FLA batteries. I need to connect those to the lithium battery soon and remove the FLA. I'm currently running parallel power systems while evaluating.
Yes, a 2500W inverter would be enough for everything except the A/C, but A/C on battery is my goal, so I may as well get the larger inverter to start with. I will most likely rewire the breaker panel for 30A service as I have eliminated the second A/C. A 30A system is more simple and lends itself better to an inverter setup. I could invest more time and money trying to get the Onan to operate smoothly, but since I want to make it redundant, I'm going to hold off investing more resources into it for now.
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I finally got the slime out of the compartment. I found out where is was binding up. This unit is now safely stored it my garage. It was a deveil of a job to get to this point. I will make some improvement before I will reinstall it.
Now I can get out the 2nd Lithionics battery. Ut Oh! There is another strap down in the back of the battery that is a bitch to get to.
Welded a tab on the spare tire mount so the spare is easier to get the bolt holes lined up. The rim hole can hang on the tab then I can rotate the spare until the holes line up and push it home. 
Wally,
I feel like the guy looking at one of Jackson Pollak's paintings who says "I could do that." To which every other bystander turns and says "Yeah, but you didn't." It's just another of your great ideas nicely executed. I've had my spare tire off to fix a flat maybe twice in thirty years yet I see it and still lust for that mod. It makes an onerous job that much easier, especially as age saps my strength. One looks at this forum over time and underneath all the mechanical problem-solving, timely rescues and maintenance brilliance, there is a continuous stream of straightforward good ideas that simply make life better and easier in our coaches. This is a great addition to the canon, so thank you. I intend to do this just as soon as I get a welder and learn to weld.
Took the GMC out for a Sunday drive today, just to exercise everything, including the generator.
I reinstalled the alternator that was repaired under warranty. This is the one that I replaced on the road, in Florida a few months. My newly rebuilt spare. The problem was that it didn't excite (and kick in) until I got over a certain RPM (I'm guestimating about 2500). So, I got it all put in, reconnected the battery etc, fired it up, and it did pretty much the same thing. Didn't excite until I revved it up (like a deuce).
I believe this one is a 100 amp alternator and I'm wondering if that is just how they behave. Can anyone shed a little light on this? It just seems weird to me although my old school mechanic friend said that is not uncommon.
Oh, and I also greased up the chassis. When I was at the hydraulic shop getting a new power steering hose made up, I picked up one of these: https://locknlube.com/collections/b...cknlube-grease-coupler?variant=42029097025620 It definitely made the job easier.
I believe this one is a 100 amp alternator and I'm wondering if that is just how they behave. Can anyone shed a little light on this? It just seems weird to me although my old school mechanic friend said that is not uncommon.
Oh, and I also greased up the chassis. When I was at the hydraulic shop getting a new power steering hose made up, I picked up one of these: https://locknlube.com/collections/b...cknlube-grease-coupler?variant=42029097025620 It definitely made the job easier.
First, is this an "One Wire Alternator"? If so they need to be "revved up" to get them going again.
Otherwise, it sounds like your Exciter wire has gone open.
- When you turn the key to ON, but without the engine running, does the GEN light come one brightly or very dimly?
- If not bright, then your Exciter wire is open.
- Check for voltage on the smaller Brown wire on the two pin connector. With the Key ON and engine not running, you should measure about 3-4 volts at the brown wire with the connector still plugged into the alternator. If you read battery voltage (12 volts plus) then you have a faulty connector at the alternator plug, or a faulty regulator module inside the alternator.
- IF you have the APC cable, remove it and plug the OEM connector in directly as a test to be sure the APC cable is not faulty.
Hope this helps!
The lock n lube couplers are
Particularly helpful if you're not using a pistol grip grease gun and need 2 hands on the gun.
Thanks Bruce.
It is not a one wire alternator, but I think it's a 100 amp instead of the 80 amp I had in there. I will check on the wiring as you suggest, but everything works as it is supposed to once the alternator kicks in and starts charging...until I shut it down, then the behavior repeats itself.
Tried to find water leaks. I used an old blower motor from a furnace, removed the cover of the front Maxi Fan vent, and pressurize the interior of the coach. Using a spray bottle of Dawn soap mixed with water I applied the solution to various area of the coach. 
Found leaks at the rear panel al several screw heads and one at the upper passenger side.
One giant bubble at the seam
I failed to find the leaks around the sunroof and from the window above steering wheel.
Found leaks at the rear panel al several screw heads and one at the upper passenger side.
One giant bubble at the seam
I failed to find the leaks around the sunroof and from the window above steering wheel.
Bruce, you're talking about a leak at the windshield that lands near the steering wheel, right? There was a service bulletin about leaks that show up there or at the passenger's knees.
The exterior SMC front cap is bonded to an interior SMC stiffening "box" section, the join line is visible on the exterior at the very bottom of the exterior SMC above the windshield. There's a bead that hides the join.
Unfortunately the bonding was not quite 100% and there are tiny gaps in the adhesive bonding the 2 sections together. When water enters that tiny gap it can sit there, when there's pressure pushing water against the join line, whether from rain while sitting or rain and wind pressure when driving, a drop of water will drip inside, and capillary action will pull in another drop of water from the outside.
In the Body section it's 75-TM-10A.
GMC's suggested service was to smear some clear silicone caulk over the join line!
On one coach I used an oscillating tool with a carbide grit blade, typically used for removing tile grout, to cut along the join line to a depth about the same as the blade width (square section cut), then used 3M 08115 to fill in the gap.
Obviously this would not be the first choice remedy for a nicely painted coach, but to anyone that's read this far, please don't use silicone caulk anywhere on the outside of your GMC!
