I pulled the radiator out of our first 78 11 years ago by removing the radiator in it's framework. That was a job. Can the radiator frame be cut with a small air cut off grinder. And not damage the radiator tanks? Then put some pull pin hinges in a the cut for install? Bob Dunahugh
Removing the radiator in a 78 GMC.
- Thread starter Bob Dunahugh
- Start date
Good morning Bob. I have found that if you do hinges and pins or bolts that you need offset hinges for the pins to clear the frame. It is easier to
use a couple of pieces of angle iron as a bed frame and drill a couple holes for bolts before welding in for alignment. If you are installing by
yourself a floor jack and longer than needed bolts will get it started then shorter bolts for final install. It can get tricky with pins trying to
align by yourself especially with new rubber supports. It does help to loosen the 4 top plate bolts in frame but leave installed.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/texas/p57823-welded.html
> I pulled the radiator out of our first 78 11 years ago by removing the radiator in it's framework. That was a job. Can the radiator frame be cut
> with a small air cut off grinder. And not damage the radiator tanks? Then put some pull pin hinges in a the cut for install? Bob Dunahugh
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
use a couple of pieces of angle iron as a bed frame and drill a couple holes for bolts before welding in for alignment. If you are installing by
yourself a floor jack and longer than needed bolts will get it started then shorter bolts for final install. It can get tricky with pins trying to
align by yourself especially with new rubber supports. It does help to loosen the 4 top plate bolts in frame but leave installed.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/texas/p57823-welded.html
> I pulled the radiator out of our first 78 11 years ago by removing the radiator in it's framework. That was a job. Can the radiator frame be cut
> with a small air cut off grinder. And not damage the radiator tanks? Then put some pull pin hinges in a the cut for install? Bob Dunahugh
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
> I pulled the radiator out of our first 78 11 years ago by removing the radiator in it's framework. That was a job. Can the radiator frame be cut
> with a small air cut off grinder. And not damage the radiator tanks? Then put some pull pin hinges in a the cut for install? Bob Dunahugh
Bob,
Talk about a "Yee-Hah", we did that with Nick Chapkis's coach last year. I didn't a satisfactory air tool, so we (I - offered to let Nick and he
declined) made the cut with a Sawzall - Very Carefully.
We put the stainless hinges only about 8" up from the turn in the bottom of the frame. Far and away, the worst part, (excluding the nervousness
sawing the frame) was get the upper coolant and four cooler lines loose. Apart from those mentioned, getting the radiator itself out and back in was
not difficult.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> with a small air cut off grinder. And not damage the radiator tanks? Then put some pull pin hinges in a the cut for install? Bob Dunahugh
Bob,
Talk about a "Yee-Hah", we did that with Nick Chapkis's coach last year. I didn't a satisfactory air tool, so we (I - offered to let Nick and he
declined) made the cut with a Sawzall - Very Carefully.
We put the stainless hinges only about 8" up from the turn in the bottom of the frame. Far and away, the worst part, (excluding the nervousness
sawing the frame) was get the upper coolant and four cooler lines loose. Apart from those mentioned, getting the radiator itself out and back in was
not difficult.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
For those that cannot weld once the radiator is dropped, one can use bolts to the angle iron and make it work
Sent from my iPhone
>
>> I pulled the radiator out of our first 78 11 years ago by removing the radiator in it's framework. That was a job. Can the radiator frame be cut
>> with a small air cut off grinder. And not damage the radiator tanks? Then put some pull pin hinges in a the cut for install? Bob Dunahugh
>
> Bob,
>
> Talk about a "Yee-Hah", we did that with Nick Chapkis's coach last year. I didn't a satisfactory air tool, so we (I - offered to let Nick and he
> declined) made the cut with a Sawzall - Very Carefully.
>
> We put the stainless hinges only about 8" up from the turn in the bottom of the frame. Far and away, the worst part, (excluding the nervousness
> sawing the frame) was get the upper coolant and four cooler lines loose. Apart from those mentioned, getting the radiator itself out and back in was
> not difficult.
>
> Matt
>
>
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Sent from my iPhone
>
>> I pulled the radiator out of our first 78 11 years ago by removing the radiator in it's framework. That was a job. Can the radiator frame be cut
>> with a small air cut off grinder. And not damage the radiator tanks? Then put some pull pin hinges in a the cut for install? Bob Dunahugh
>
> Bob,
>
> Talk about a "Yee-Hah", we did that with Nick Chapkis's coach last year. I didn't a satisfactory air tool, so we (I - offered to let Nick and he
> declined) made the cut with a Sawzall - Very Carefully.
>
> We put the stainless hinges only about 8" up from the turn in the bottom of the frame. Far and away, the worst part, (excluding the nervousness
> sawing the frame) was get the upper coolant and four cooler lines loose. Apart from those mentioned, getting the radiator itself out and back in was
> not difficult.
>
> Matt
>
>
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/timing-chain-2fradiator-project-05-2f09/p34552-timing-chain-2fradiator.html
--
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles,
Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
--
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles,
Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
Bob - I removed the bottom of the frame >carefully, with a cutoff wheel, and put hinges on each side of the 23'. If you have time an patience, unhook
all the hoses (6 of them) and unbolt the bottom half of the frame at the top. Drop it and the radiator. Set the radiator aside, and then drill and
bolt a hinge on each side centered front to back and such that the bottom of the hinge as above the curve of the housing. Remove the hinges and cut
the housing between the bolt hols. Reattach the hinges and drive the pins out. Bolt each part of the housing back in place. Now all you have to do
is stuff the radiator back (don't forget the cushions!) in place, put the bottom under, and drive the hinge pins in to hold it. Some folks replace
the pins with bolts and nuts, I haven't seen the need.
I haven';t doe the 26' because when it fell it hit on the radiator frame. I straightened it with a sledge... but there's stress on it yet so I didn't
cut it. If I have to remove the radiator again I'll try to find another bracket bottom off a parts coach. The current radiator is a recore from a
year ago, it may not need removing in my lifetime. I hope.
--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
all the hoses (6 of them) and unbolt the bottom half of the frame at the top. Drop it and the radiator. Set the radiator aside, and then drill and
bolt a hinge on each side centered front to back and such that the bottom of the hinge as above the curve of the housing. Remove the hinges and cut
the housing between the bolt hols. Reattach the hinges and drive the pins out. Bolt each part of the housing back in place. Now all you have to do
is stuff the radiator back (don't forget the cushions!) in place, put the bottom under, and drive the hinge pins in to hold it. Some folks replace
the pins with bolts and nuts, I haven't seen the need.
I haven';t doe the 26' because when it fell it hit on the radiator frame. I straightened it with a sledge... but there's stress on it yet so I didn't
cut it. If I have to remove the radiator again I'll try to find another bracket bottom off a parts coach. The current radiator is a recore from a
year ago, it may not need removing in my lifetime. I hope.
--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
Look at that show off Carl's nice clean and painted engine !
Mike in NS
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail
Virus-free.
www.avast.com
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail
On Fri, Feb 16, 2018 at 11:14 AM, Johnny Bridges via Gmclist <
> Bob - I removed the bottom of the frame >carefully, with a cutoff wheel,
> and put hinges on each side of the 23'. If you have time an patience,
> unhook
> all the hoses (6 of them) and unbolt the bottom half of the frame at the
> top. Drop it and the radiator. Set the radiator aside, and then drill and
> bolt a hinge on each side centered front to back and such that the bottom
> of the hinge as above the curve of the housing. Remove the hinges and cut
> the housing between the bolt hols. Reattach the hinges and drive the pins
> out. Bolt each part of the housing back in place. Now all you have to do
> is stuff the radiator back (don't forget the cushions!) in place, put the
> bottom under, and drive the hinge pins in to hold it. Some folks replace
> the pins with bolts and nuts, I haven't seen the need.
> I haven';t doe the 26' because when it fell it hit on the radiator frame.
> I straightened it with a sledge... but there's stress on it yet so I didn't
> cut it. If I have to remove the radiator again I'll try to find another
> bracket bottom off a parts coach. The current radiator is a recore from a
> year ago, it may not need removing in my lifetime. I hope.
>
> --johnny
> --
> 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
> in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS
Life is too short to hold a grudge; slash some tires and call it even !
Mike in NS
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail
Virus-free.
www.avast.com
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail
On Fri, Feb 16, 2018 at 11:14 AM, Johnny Bridges via Gmclist <
> Bob - I removed the bottom of the frame >carefully, with a cutoff wheel,
> and put hinges on each side of the 23'. If you have time an patience,
> unhook
> all the hoses (6 of them) and unbolt the bottom half of the frame at the
> top. Drop it and the radiator. Set the radiator aside, and then drill and
> bolt a hinge on each side centered front to back and such that the bottom
> of the hinge as above the curve of the housing. Remove the hinges and cut
> the housing between the bolt hols. Reattach the hinges and drive the pins
> out. Bolt each part of the housing back in place. Now all you have to do
> is stuff the radiator back (don't forget the cushions!) in place, put the
> bottom under, and drive the hinge pins in to hold it. Some folks replace
> the pins with bolts and nuts, I haven't seen the need.
> I haven';t doe the 26' because when it fell it hit on the radiator frame.
> I straightened it with a sledge... but there's stress on it yet so I didn't
> cut it. If I have to remove the radiator again I'll try to find another
> bracket bottom off a parts coach. The current radiator is a recore from a
> year ago, it may not need removing in my lifetime. I hope.
>
> --johnny
> --
> 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
> in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS
Life is too short to hold a grudge; slash some tires and call it even !
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/timing-chain-2fradiator-project-05-2f09/p34552-timing-chain-2fradiator.html
This is a great way to handle the split radiator frame. I did mine that way back in 2004 and have had the radiator out several times. After unbolting,
I used a floor jack to lower and raise the radiator. Between the split radiator and the floor jack it made this job relatively easy. You need to
remember that this split is out in the weather, exposed to the elements. Do yourselves a favor and use Stainless Steel nuts, bolts and washers here
and put a little white lube on the threads when assembling. Steel bolts will rust and resist coming apart. SS will come apart as if you just put it
together yesterday. Just something I learned the hard way.
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
This is a great way to handle the split radiator frame. I did mine that way back in 2004 and have had the radiator out several times. After unbolting,
I used a floor jack to lower and raise the radiator. Between the split radiator and the floor jack it made this job relatively easy. You need to
remember that this split is out in the weather, exposed to the elements. Do yourselves a favor and use Stainless Steel nuts, bolts and washers here
and put a little white lube on the threads when assembling. Steel bolts will rust and resist coming apart. SS will come apart as if you just put it
together yesterday. Just something I learned the hard way.
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
I really don’t find it all that hard to raise the front of the GMC and drop the radiator out without cutting the frame.
We did Ken Burton’s at a GMCMI rally in Delaware and I recently (in Jan) replaced my radiator by just unbolting it and dropping it out the bottom.
It didn’t seem very hard and probably was a lot less work than cutting the frame and welding in hinge pieces.
Larry says he has had his radiator out “several times” since 2004. I have had mine out only once since I have owned it (37 years) and hopefully will never have to take it out again.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO
>
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/timing-chain-2fradiator-project-05-2f09/p34552-timing-chain-2fradiator.html
>
> This is a great way to handle the split radiator frame. I did mine that way back in 2004 and have had the radiator out several times. After unbolting,
> I used a floor jack to lower and raise the radiator. Between the split radiator and the floor jack it made this job relatively easy. You need to
> remember that this split is out in the weather, exposed to the elements. Do yourselves a favor and use Stainless Steel nuts, bolts and washers here
> and put a little white lube on the threads when assembling. Steel bolts will rust and resist coming apart. SS will come apart as if you just put it
> together yesterday. Just something I learned the hard way.
>
>
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
We did Ken Burton’s at a GMCMI rally in Delaware and I recently (in Jan) replaced my radiator by just unbolting it and dropping it out the bottom.
It didn’t seem very hard and probably was a lot less work than cutting the frame and welding in hinge pieces.
Larry says he has had his radiator out “several times” since 2004. I have had mine out only once since I have owned it (37 years) and hopefully will never have to take it out again.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO
>
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/timing-chain-2fradiator-project-05-2f09/p34552-timing-chain-2fradiator.html
>
> This is a great way to handle the split radiator frame. I did mine that way back in 2004 and have had the radiator out several times. After unbolting,
> I used a floor jack to lower and raise the radiator. Between the split radiator and the floor jack it made this job relatively easy. You need to
> remember that this split is out in the weather, exposed to the elements. Do yourselves a favor and use Stainless Steel nuts, bolts and washers here
> and put a little white lube on the threads when assembling. Steel bolts will rust and resist coming apart. SS will come apart as if you just put it
> together yesterday. Just something I learned the hard way.
>
>
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Bob,
Look at these pictures on what I did years ago.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3850-radiator-support-bracket-modification.html
JR
>
> Good morning Bob. I have found that if you do hinges and pins or bolts that you need offset hinges for the pins to clear the frame. It is easier to
> use a couple of pieces of angle iron as a bed frame and drill a couple holes for bolts before welding in for alignment. If you are installing by
> yourself a floor jack and longer than needed bolts will get it started then shorter bolts for final install. It can get tricky with pins trying to
> align by yourself especially with new rubber supports. It does help to loosen the 4 top plate bolts in frame but leave installed.
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/texas/p57823-welded.html
>
>
>
>> I pulled the radiator out of our first 78 11 years ago by removing the radiator in it's framework. That was a job. Can the radiator frame be cut
>> with a small air cut off grinder. And not damage the radiator tanks? Then put some pull pin hinges in a the cut for install? Bob Dunahugh
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
> East Tennessee
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Look at these pictures on what I did years ago.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3850-radiator-support-bracket-modification.html
JR
>
> Good morning Bob. I have found that if you do hinges and pins or bolts that you need offset hinges for the pins to clear the frame. It is easier to
> use a couple of pieces of angle iron as a bed frame and drill a couple holes for bolts before welding in for alignment. If you are installing by
> yourself a floor jack and longer than needed bolts will get it started then shorter bolts for final install. It can get tricky with pins trying to
> align by yourself especially with new rubber supports. It does help to loosen the 4 top plate bolts in frame but leave installed.
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/texas/p57823-welded.html
>
>
>
>> I pulled the radiator out of our first 78 11 years ago by removing the radiator in it's framework. That was a job. Can the radiator frame be cut
>> with a small air cut off grinder. And not damage the radiator tanks? Then put some pull pin hinges in a the cut for install? Bob Dunahugh
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
> East Tennessee
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Agreed Emery. Couple more pumps on the jack is all were talkin.
Sully
77 eleganza 2
Bellevue.
> I really don’t find it all that hard to raise the front of the GMC and
> drop the radiator out without cutting the frame.
> We did Ken Burton’s at a GMCMI rally in Delaware and I recently (in Jan)
> replaced my radiator by just unbolting it and dropping it out the bottom.
> It didn’t seem very hard and probably was a lot less work than cutting the
> frame and welding in hinge pieces.
>
> Larry says he has had his radiator out “several times” since 2004. I have
> had mine out only once since I have owned it (37 years) and hopefully will
> never have to take it out again.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
>
> >
> >>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/timing-chain-2fradiator-project-05-2f09/p34552-timing-chain-2fradiator.html
> >
> > This is a great way to handle the split radiator frame. I did mine that
> way back in 2004 and have had the radiator out several times. After
> unbolting,
> > I used a floor jack to lower and raise the radiator. Between the split
> radiator and the floor jack it made this job relatively easy. You need to
> > remember that this split is out in the weather, exposed to the elements.
> Do yourselves a favor and use Stainless Steel nuts, bolts and washers here
> > and put a little white lube on the threads when assembling. Steel bolts
> will rust and resist coming apart. SS will come apart as if you just put it
> > together yesterday. Just something I learned the hard way.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Larry
> > 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> > Menomonie, WI.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
Sully
77 eleganza 2
Bellevue.
> I really don’t find it all that hard to raise the front of the GMC and
> drop the radiator out without cutting the frame.
> We did Ken Burton’s at a GMCMI rally in Delaware and I recently (in Jan)
> replaced my radiator by just unbolting it and dropping it out the bottom.
> It didn’t seem very hard and probably was a lot less work than cutting the
> frame and welding in hinge pieces.
>
> Larry says he has had his radiator out “several times” since 2004. I have
> had mine out only once since I have owned it (37 years) and hopefully will
> never have to take it out again.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
>
> >
> >>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/timing-chain-2fradiator-project-05-2f09/p34552-timing-chain-2fradiator.html
> >
> > This is a great way to handle the split radiator frame. I did mine that
> way back in 2004 and have had the radiator out several times. After
> unbolting,
> > I used a floor jack to lower and raise the radiator. Between the split
> radiator and the floor jack it made this job relatively easy. You need to
> > remember that this split is out in the weather, exposed to the elements.
> Do yourselves a favor and use Stainless Steel nuts, bolts and washers here
> > and put a little white lube on the threads when assembling. Steel bolts
> will rust and resist coming apart. SS will come apart as if you just put it
> > together yesterday. Just something I learned the hard way.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Larry
> > 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> > Menomonie, WI.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
When you already have the radiator and support frame removed from the coach
is the best time to modify the support frame. Personally, I prefer two
pieces of 1" × 1" angle iron bolted together rather than loose pin hinges.
The angle iron bolts together, and each piece is welded to the support
frame on either side of the saw cut. That way, the nuts can point towards
the ground, easily accessible. I usually tack weld the bolts to the top
angle iron, it then can guide the lower piece into position during
reassembly, and you only have to handle the nuts and washers.
But, to defend Emery and Todd, how often are you going to be taking
the radiator in and out? Couple of extra pumps on the jack, and the whole
thing comes out. It is a heavy sucker, though. Use a floor jack.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
Agreed Emery. Couple more pumps on the jack is all were talkin.
Sully
77 eleganza 2
Bellevue.
> I really don’t find it all that hard to raise the front of the GMC and
> drop the radiator out without cutting the frame.
> We did Ken Burton’s at a GMCMI rally in Delaware and I recently (in Jan)
> replaced my radiator by just unbolting it and dropping it out the bottom.
> It didn’t seem very hard and probably was a lot less work than cutting the
> frame and welding in hinge pieces.
>
> Larry says he has had his radiator out “several times” since 2004. I have
> had mine out only once since I have owned it (37 years) and hopefully will
> never have to take it out again.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
>
> >
> >>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/timing-chain-2fradiator-project-05-2f09/
p34552-timing-chain-2fradiator.html
> >
> > This is a great way to handle the split radiator frame. I did mine that
> way back in 2004 and have had the radiator out several times. After
> unbolting,
> > I used a floor jack to lower and raise the radiator. Between the split
> radiator and the floor jack it made this job relatively easy. You need to
> > remember that this split is out in the weather, exposed to the elements.
> Do yourselves a favor and use Stainless Steel nuts, bolts and washers here
> > and put a little white lube on the threads when assembling. Steel bolts
> will rust and resist coming apart. SS will come apart as if you just put
it
> > together yesterday. Just something I learned the hard way.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Larry
> > 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> > Menomonie, WI.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
is the best time to modify the support frame. Personally, I prefer two
pieces of 1" × 1" angle iron bolted together rather than loose pin hinges.
The angle iron bolts together, and each piece is welded to the support
frame on either side of the saw cut. That way, the nuts can point towards
the ground, easily accessible. I usually tack weld the bolts to the top
angle iron, it then can guide the lower piece into position during
reassembly, and you only have to handle the nuts and washers.
But, to defend Emery and Todd, how often are you going to be taking
the radiator in and out? Couple of extra pumps on the jack, and the whole
thing comes out. It is a heavy sucker, though. Use a floor jack.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
Agreed Emery. Couple more pumps on the jack is all were talkin.
Sully
77 eleganza 2
Bellevue.
> I really don’t find it all that hard to raise the front of the GMC and
> drop the radiator out without cutting the frame.
> We did Ken Burton’s at a GMCMI rally in Delaware and I recently (in Jan)
> replaced my radiator by just unbolting it and dropping it out the bottom.
> It didn’t seem very hard and probably was a lot less work than cutting the
> frame and welding in hinge pieces.
>
> Larry says he has had his radiator out “several times” since 2004. I have
> had mine out only once since I have owned it (37 years) and hopefully will
> never have to take it out again.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
>
> >
> >>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/timing-chain-2fradiator-project-05-2f09/
p34552-timing-chain-2fradiator.html
> >
> > This is a great way to handle the split radiator frame. I did mine that
> way back in 2004 and have had the radiator out several times. After
> unbolting,
> > I used a floor jack to lower and raise the radiator. Between the split
> radiator and the floor jack it made this job relatively easy. You need to
> > remember that this split is out in the weather, exposed to the elements.
> Do yourselves a favor and use Stainless Steel nuts, bolts and washers here
> > and put a little white lube on the threads when assembling. Steel bolts
> will rust and resist coming apart. SS will come apart as if you just put
it
> > together yesterday. Just something I learned the hard way.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Larry
> > 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> > Menomonie, WI.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
I used hinges with removable pins. I bolted them to the radiator frame
using 1/4" stainless bolts and nylock nuts. I also made a little
aluminum-angle piece that fit over one bolt on each side of the pin, above
and below at the aft end of the hinge. The piece was drilled to slid over
the exposed bolt threads and was held in place with a couple of additional
nuts. The angle wraps over the pin to keep it from working out. I used
allen-head bolts with low-profile round heads to avoid getting too close to
the radiator tank.
What I can't remember is whether I did it while the frame was on the coach
or whether I removed it altogether the first time.
Too cold and wet for a picture. I thought I'd uploaded a picture years ago,
but I can't find it.
Rick "yes, they were offset hinges designed to lay flat" Denney
> I pulled the radiator out of our first 78 11 years ago by removing the
> radiator in it's framework. That was a job. Can the radiator frame be cut
> with a small air cut off grinder. And not damage the radiator tanks? Then
> put some pull pin hinges in a the cut for install? Bob Dunahugh
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
'73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
using 1/4" stainless bolts and nylock nuts. I also made a little
aluminum-angle piece that fit over one bolt on each side of the pin, above
and below at the aft end of the hinge. The piece was drilled to slid over
the exposed bolt threads and was held in place with a couple of additional
nuts. The angle wraps over the pin to keep it from working out. I used
allen-head bolts with low-profile round heads to avoid getting too close to
the radiator tank.
What I can't remember is whether I did it while the frame was on the coach
or whether I removed it altogether the first time.
Too cold and wet for a picture. I thought I'd uploaded a picture years ago,
but I can't find it.
Rick "yes, they were offset hinges designed to lay flat" Denney
> I pulled the radiator out of our first 78 11 years ago by removing the
> radiator in it's framework. That was a job. Can the radiator frame be cut
> with a small air cut off grinder. And not damage the radiator tanks? Then
> put some pull pin hinges in a the cut for install? Bob Dunahugh
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
'73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
> I really don't find it all that hard to raise the front of the GMC and drop the radiator out without cutting the frame.
> We did Ken Burton's at a GMCMI rally in Delaware and I recently (in Jan) replaced my radiator by just unbolting it and dropping it out the
> bottom.
> It didn't seem very hard and probably was a lot less work than cutting the frame and welding in hinge pieces.
>
> Larry says he has had his radiator out "several times" since 2004. I have had mine out only once since I have owned it (37 years) and hopefully
> will never have to take it out again.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
There must be some differences.
The mounting frame of my radiator is held by ears above and bolted to the front frame. There is (was) no room to go up with the top frame removed.
Nick's is a upgraded Kingsly and we really did look for alternatives. We found none.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> We did Ken Burton's at a GMCMI rally in Delaware and I recently (in Jan) replaced my radiator by just unbolting it and dropping it out the
> bottom.
> It didn't seem very hard and probably was a lot less work than cutting the frame and welding in hinge pieces.
>
> Larry says he has had his radiator out "several times" since 2004. I have had mine out only once since I have owned it (37 years) and hopefully
> will never have to take it out again.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
There must be some differences.
The mounting frame of my radiator is held by ears above and bolted to the front frame. There is (was) no room to go up with the top frame removed.
Nick's is a upgraded Kingsly and we really did look for alternatives. We found none.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
I have had mine out twice. The first time Emery and Colonel Ken plus more than a few other observers helped at the Harrington rally. We called is a
seminar because we weren't suppose to work on coaches there. The second time more than a few GMCers lead by Rob Mueller stopped by my hangar on the
way to Amana Colonies and did it. I left town for a had to go trip to Cincinnati while the GMCers took care of my problem. When I got back it was
done. We had GMcers from Indiana, Michigan, Ohio, Ontario, and Australia there helping. Several others later said they would have stopped by but
thought there would not be a place to park when they got there.
Neither time did we bother to cut the frame. Both times I said why bother I'll never be doing this again and it was not a bad job without it.
As a side note, the second time we pulled it, there was a mis-diagnosis of the problem on my part and it did not really need to come out.
It was amazing how many GMCers helped out both times.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
seminar because we weren't suppose to work on coaches there. The second time more than a few GMCers lead by Rob Mueller stopped by my hangar on the
way to Amana Colonies and did it. I left town for a had to go trip to Cincinnati while the GMCers took care of my problem. When I got back it was
done. We had GMcers from Indiana, Michigan, Ohio, Ontario, and Australia there helping. Several others later said they would have stopped by but
thought there would not be a place to park when they got there.
Neither time did we bother to cut the frame. Both times I said why bother I'll never be doing this again and it was not a bad job without it.
As a side note, the second time we pulled it, there was a mis-diagnosis of the problem on my part and it did not really need to come out.
It was amazing how many GMCers helped out both times.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
I'll add a point to ponder on JimH's technique, learned from working feedlines on tall towers. Run the bolts through the angle with the nuts and
washers on top. Now, should one loosen and the nut come off, there will be a hole which you'll see from above when you're checking the oil and
coolant. If the bolt points down, you won't see a missing nut from the top when checking. Hopefully, seeing the hole will keep Bad Things from
happening. This alignment lets you also check every bolt on a tower from the ground with a telescope.
--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
washers on top. Now, should one loosen and the nut come off, there will be a hole which you'll see from above when you're checking the oil and
coolant. If the bolt points down, you won't see a missing nut from the top when checking. Hopefully, seeing the hole will keep Bad Things from
happening. This alignment lets you also check every bolt on a tower from the ground with a telescope.
--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
So, bolts in from the bottom? You make a valid point, Johnny. I guess, it
should not make any difference in clamping. Should help on the visual
checks.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
On Feb 17, 2018 6:11 AM, "Johnny Bridges via Gmclist" <
> I'll add a point to ponder on JimH's technique, learned from working
> feedlines on tall towers. Run the bolts through the angle with the nuts and
> washers on top. Now, should one loosen and the nut come off, there will
> be a hole which you'll see from above when you're checking the oil and
> coolant. If the bolt points down, you won't see a missing nut from the
> top when checking. Hopefully, seeing the hole will keep Bad Things from
> happening. This alignment lets you also check every bolt on a tower from
> the ground with a telescope.
>
> --johnny
> --
> 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
> in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
should not make any difference in clamping. Should help on the visual
checks.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
On Feb 17, 2018 6:11 AM, "Johnny Bridges via Gmclist" <
> I'll add a point to ponder on JimH's technique, learned from working
> feedlines on tall towers. Run the bolts through the angle with the nuts and
> washers on top. Now, should one loosen and the nut come off, there will
> be a hole which you'll see from above when you're checking the oil and
> coolant. If the bolt points down, you won't see a missing nut from the
> top when checking. Hopefully, seeing the hole will keep Bad Things from
> happening. This alignment lets you also check every bolt on a tower from
> the ground with a telescope.
>
> --johnny
> --
> 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
> in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
Hmmmpf -- use Captive nuts on the top so you don't have to try to put two
hands where only one will fit -- like on my split fan shroud.
(You can still use a telescope.)
Ken H.
> So, bolts in from the bottom? You make a valid point, Johnny. I guess, it
> should not make any difference in clamping. Should help on the visual
> checks.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
>
> On Feb 17, 2018 6:11 AM, "Johnny Bridges via Gmclist" <
>
> > I'll add a point to ponder on JimH's technique, learned from working
> > feedlines on tall towers. Run the bolts through the angle with the nuts
> and
> > washers on top. Now, should one loosen and the nut come off, there will
> > be a hole which you'll see from above when you're checking the oil and
> > coolant. If the bolt points down, you won't see a missing nut from the
> > top when checking. Hopefully, seeing the hole will keep Bad Things from
> > happening. This alignment lets you also check every bolt on a tower from
> > the ground with a telescope.
>
hands where only one will fit -- like on my split fan shroud.
(You can still use a telescope.)
Ken H.
> So, bolts in from the bottom? You make a valid point, Johnny. I guess, it
> should not make any difference in clamping. Should help on the visual
> checks.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
>
> On Feb 17, 2018 6:11 AM, "Johnny Bridges via Gmclist" <
>
> > I'll add a point to ponder on JimH's technique, learned from working
> > feedlines on tall towers. Run the bolts through the angle with the nuts
> and
> > washers on top. Now, should one loosen and the nut come off, there will
> > be a hole which you'll see from above when you're checking the oil and
> > coolant. If the bolt points down, you won't see a missing nut from the
> > top when checking. Hopefully, seeing the hole will keep Bad Things from
> > happening. This alignment lets you also check every bolt on a tower from
> > the ground with a telescope.
>
I used stainless steel bolts and welded the heads to the angle iron bracket. I also used SS nuts and lock washers on the bottom. I took the radiator
out a few weeks ago to make pulling the engine easier and the hardware was still tight but easy to remove.
--
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles,
Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
out a few weeks ago to make pulling the engine easier and the hardware was still tight but easy to remove.
--
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles,
Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
Carl:
Any time you use stainless fasteners be sure to use anti seize compound. The stainless has a characteristic of 'cold welding' itself together. Most noticeable when the connection is stainless to stainless, but also there with stainless to aluminum. Also, stainless hardware is MUCH weaker than the same size steel fastener. Rick Shoop
>
>
> I used stainless steel bolts and welded the heads to the angle iron bracket. I also used SS nuts and lock washers on the bottom. I took the radiator
> out a few weeks ago to make pulling the engine easier and the hardware was still tight but easy to remove.
> --
> Carl Stouffer
> '75 ex Palm Beach
> Tucson, AZ.
> Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles,
> Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Any time you use stainless fasteners be sure to use anti seize compound. The stainless has a characteristic of 'cold welding' itself together. Most noticeable when the connection is stainless to stainless, but also there with stainless to aluminum. Also, stainless hardware is MUCH weaker than the same size steel fastener. Rick Shoop
>
>
> I used stainless steel bolts and welded the heads to the angle iron bracket. I also used SS nuts and lock washers on the bottom. I took the radiator
> out a few weeks ago to make pulling the engine easier and the hardware was still tight but easy to remove.
> --
> Carl Stouffer
> '75 ex Palm Beach
> Tucson, AZ.
> Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles,
> Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
