Removing the radiator in a 78 GMC.

[sgltrac]

If you mix the grade of stainless between the nuts and bolts they will not
gaul seize.

Sully
77 eleganza 2
Bellevue

On Sat, Feb 17, 2018 at 12:04 PM RICHARD/MARLI SHOOP
wrote:

> Carl:
> Any time you use stainless fasteners be sure to use anti seize
> compound. The stainless has a characteristic of 'cold welding' itself
> together. Most noticeable when the connection is stainless to stainless,
> but also there with stainless to aluminum. Also, stainless hardware is MUCH
> weaker than the same size steel fastener. Rick Shoop
>
> > On February 17, 2018 at 8:00 AM Carl Stouffer

> >
> >
> > I used stainless steel bolts and welded the heads to the angle iron
> bracket. I also used SS nuts and lock washers on the bottom. I took the
> radiator
> > out a few weeks ago to make pulling the engine easier and the hardware
> was still tight but easy to remove.
> > --
> > Carl Stouffer
> > '75 ex Palm Beach
> > Tucson, AZ.
> > Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive,
> Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American
> Eagles,
> > Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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[Ken B]

> Hmmmpf -- use Captive nuts on the top so you don't have to try to put two
> hands where only one will fit -- like on my split fan shroud.
>
> (You can still use a telescope.)
>
> Ken H.
>
>

>
> > So, bolts in from the bottom? You make a valid point, Johnny. I guess, it
> > should not make any difference in clamping. Should help on the visual

The manufacturer of my split radiator shroud put the captive nuts on the bottom so the bolts went in from the top. What a PIA that is. They changed
it on later ones.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana