Refrigerator replacement 2026

[Don Jaksa]

I am on a roll upgrading house systems and now the 53 year old electric color-matched refrigerator is ready for a modernization

I hate to do away with the whole original theme to my coach but at some point, doing away with the old one is necessary to assure reliable service

I tested it out when I first got the coach and it cooled and froze as expected
I ran it yesterday and it started to cool but was not progressing
The previous owner had added a schlader valve to add refrigerant (propane) and the unit would probably work if I did that

Once I have the unit out, it can be serviced by a regular appliance tech if I so desire

New refrigerator:
I will need a refrigerator that will fit in the existing space...or nearly fit

The cutout appears to be 52.5" H 24" wide and reportedly 24" deep @ 52.5" high
Once I remove "Ol yellow" I can see how much space I actually have to work with

Absorption vs compressor technology:
Absorption allows the use of propane but requires venting. I would have to add the vent and plumb the gas line to the compartment. I am moving away from propane these days and going 12vdc, but I have to consider the options

Here is my leading contender for an absorption 3-way refrigerator

RV Refrigerator 6.3 Cubic Feet 3-Way Gas and 12v/110v Electric

Looking for a reliable and efficient way to keep your food fresh while on the road? Look no further than RecPro's RV refrigerator with three power options - DC 12v, AC 120v, and Propane.

recpro.com

A beautiful appliance, three-way power

But word-on-the-street is that modern 12vdc staged compressors work really well, even in hot weather and do not require venting
I looked at a lot of contenders but size was the biggest determining factor for selection

Here is the leading contender for 12vdc refrigerator

Norcold 8 Cu. Ft. 12V DC Right-Hinge Black Refrigerator (N8DCBKR)

The Norcold 8 Cu. Ft. 12V DC Right-Hinge Black Refrigerator (N8DCBKR) from Nomadic Supply Company® is a 12V compressor refrigerator designed for the road, featuring battery-saving night mode, travel latch,…

nomadicsupply.com

I can't wait to pull the fridge out and clean out the space
I will also insulate the compartment like others have suggested

Any suggestions?

 

[sailor man]

I am on a roll upgrading house systems and now the 53 year old electric color-matched refrigerator is ready for a modernization
View attachment 18704
I hate to do away with the whole original theme to my coach but at some point, doing away with the old one is necessary to assure reliable service

I tested it out when I first got the coach and it cooled and froze as expected
I ran it yesterday and it started to cool but was not progressing
The previous owner had added a schlader valve to add refrigerant (propane) and the unit would probably work if I did that

Once I have the unit out, it can be serviced by a regular appliance tech if I so desire

New refrigerator:
I will need a refrigerator that will fit in the existing space...or nearly fit

The cutout appears to be 52.5" H 24" wide and reportedly 24" deep
Once I remove "Ol yellow" I can see how much space I actually have to work with

Absorption vs compressor technology:
Absorption allows the use of propane but requires venting. I would have to add the vent and plumb the gas line to the compartment. I am moving away from propane these days and going 12vdc, but I have to consider the options

Here is my leading contender for an absorption 3-way refrigerator

RV Refrigerator 6.3 Cubic Feet 3-Way Gas and 12v/110v Electric

Looking for a reliable and efficient way to keep your food fresh while on the road? Look no further than RecPro's RV refrigerator with three power options - DC 12v, AC 120v, and Propane.

recpro.com

A beautiful appliance, three-way power

But word-on-the-street is that modern 12vdc staged compressors work really well, even in hot weather and do not require venting
I looked at a lot of contenders but size was the biggest determining factor for selection

Here is the leading contender for 12vdc refrigerator

Norcold 8 Cu. Ft. 12V DC Right-Hinge Black Refrigerator (N8DCBKR)

The Norcold 8 Cu. Ft. 12V DC Right-Hinge Black Refrigerator (N8DCBKR) from Nomadic Supply Company® is a 12V compressor refrigerator designed for the road, featuring battery-saving night mode, travel latch,…

nomadicsupply.com

I can't wait to pull the fridge out and clean out the space
I will also insulate the compartment like others have suggested

Any suggestions?

Check out the Indel Combi CR195 refrigeration/freezer that is detailed in my post. It only is supposed to be using 680 watts per day for the refrigerator/freexer and 35% less if you add the compressor controller. You can purchase an optional trim from them so that you can insert a panel that matches your cabinetry.



See #286 on page 15 of Converting to LiFePO4 batteries and Sailor Man's LiFePO4 Build. The 2023 pricing is in post #291. This pricing is for the stainless steel version. The version for your panel is considerably less.

I know that it is pricy but it will pay for itself in the significant reduction in energy costs and repairs. This is a very high quality product that is designed for the rugged marine world.

 

[Don Jaksa]

The Indel 195 combo will fit for the required dimensions

Dimensions (cut-out): 52.9" H x 21.4" W x 22.5" D

Ouch! Kinda out of my price range @ $2800

 

[LarryW]

Before you replace your frig, take a look at this site. You may only need to replace parts on your old refrigerator to make it cool and be reliable again.

RV Cooling Unit Warehouse, LLC Home Page

Our new homepage.

rvcoolingunit.com

 

[Don Jaksa]

After pricing and quotes for shipping costs of new units, repair looks like a viable option (in my price range)

I have watched videos of people servicing this exact unit.

The current refrigerator already is 12/110 volt

 

[RF_Burns]

I couldn't justify $2,000 for a new fridge when my OEM all-electric Norcold died. So I bought a 7.5Cu.Ft apartment size fridge for under $400 Cdn. It's 120VAC, but I already had the inverter. Since then I've upgraded the inverter to a Samlex Inverter/charger/Transfer switch and installed 200AmpHr of LiFePO4 batteries. I also put a 175W solar panel on the roof. I'm still under the original $2k total cost. The solar panel keeps up with the fridge on a sunny day.

The new fridge has been working great for 12 years now.

One moment, please...

 

[Don Jaksa]

REMOVING THE UNIT:

There is a hinge pin/flathead screw on the top of the freezer door and the bottom of the refrigerator door. Remove these and the doors come off


There are four screws holding the unit in place

It seems like the base was stuck to the floor and I had to coax it to break free

I think I'll get my transmission jack out and see if it can be of some use in removing the unit

 

[tmsnyder]

I am on a roll upgrading house systems and now the 53 year old electric color-matched refrigerator is ready for a modernization
View attachment 18704
I hate to do away with the whole original theme to my coach but at some point, doing away with the old one is necessary to assure reliable service

I tested it out when I first got the coach and it cooled and froze as expected
I ran it yesterday and it started to cool but was not progressing
The previous owner had added a schlader valve to add refrigerant (propane) and the unit would probably work if I did that

Once I have the unit out, it can be serviced by a regular appliance tech if I so desire

New refrigerator:
I will need a refrigerator that will fit in the existing space...or nearly fit

The cutout appears to be 52.5" H 24" wide and reportedly 24" deep @ 52.5" high
Once I remove "Ol yellow" I can see how much space I actually have to work with

Absorption vs compressor technology:
Absorption allows the use of propane but requires venting. I would have to add the vent and plumb the gas line to the compartment. I am moving away from propane these days and going 12vdc, but I have to consider the options

Here is my leading contender for an absorption 3-way refrigerator

RV Refrigerator 6.3 Cubic Feet 3-Way Gas and 12v/110v Electric

Looking for a reliable and efficient way to keep your food fresh while on the road? Look no further than RecPro's RV refrigerator with three power options - DC 12v, AC 120v, and Propane.

recpro.com

A beautiful appliance, three-way power

But word-on-the-street is that modern 12vdc staged compressors work really well, even in hot weather and do not require venting
I looked at a lot of contenders but size was the biggest determining factor for selection

Here is the leading contender for 12vdc refrigerator

Norcold 8 Cu. Ft. 12V DC Right-Hinge Black Refrigerator (N8DCBKR)

The Norcold 8 Cu. Ft. 12V DC Right-Hinge Black Refrigerator (N8DCBKR) from Nomadic Supply Company® is a 12V compressor refrigerator designed for the road, featuring battery-saving night mode, travel latch,…

nomadicsupply.com

I can't wait to pull the fridge out and clean out the space
I will also insulate the compartment like others have suggested

Any suggestions?

Hi Don,

I have my refrigerator replacement documented in my build thread, here for reference:

T

Post in thread '1976 Eleganza II'

May 17, 2021

The refrigerator dumped all its ammonia just as we were heading off for a weekend camping, had to use coolers, which really made us appreciate the refrigerator.

We got a Norcold NA7LXR from our local family owned RV store (Mantelli Trailer Sales in Lockport, NY) They were able to price match what I was seeing online and it was very appreciated, they are a great asset to have locally.

It's a 7 cf refrigerator. I got it based on my brother's GMC which has a Norcold 641.3 in it, this is supposed to be a direct replacement so it _should_ fit.

Well, "should fit" turned out to be...

• tmsnyder

Maybe it will be of some help in your decision,

Todd

 

[Don Jaksa]

What a headache for a direct-drop-in replacement.
How many times did you have to put it in-take it out? The exterior vent shroud should have helped.

The final product looks pretty good and it works, so win win

Yeah, the NA7XLR is a electric/gas absorption refrigerator
The Norcold N8DCBKR is strictly 12vdc compressor refrigerator
less hardware, no venting

I read your thread and was concerned because the dimensions seemed the same as the one I am pondering but my cabinetry is early and not so dovetailed

The curve in the back of the refrigerator compartment is always trouble

The original refrigerator is already to come out now
Just power the coach down and heave-ho

​

​

 

[Richard RV]

The Norcold N8DCBKR is strictly 12vdc compressor refrigerator
less hardware, no venting

I'm not familiar with RV DC compressor refrigerators. A refrigerator is a heat pump regardless of where the BTUs come from, and there'll be a fair amount of heat being produced to achieve the cold. When you say no venting does that mean that it can be installed with no openings to the exterior and the only air exchange is to the interior?

The curve in the back of the refrigerator compartment is always trouble

I see too many coaches that don't have the back baffle just exterior to the refrigerator fins, and are not channeling the rising air directly over the fins. Not directing the air is shooting the refrigerator in it's foot.

I don't know if it's changed but the specific Dometic installation manual for my specific refrigerator that came with it 8 or 10 years ago did not mention the maximum clearance between the fins and the back baffle, but the generic Dometic instructions for all of their refrigerators did. Pissed me off big time.

Maximum clearance from the fins to the back baffle is an inch or less. Very important for efficient heat transfer.

 

[Carl Stouffer]

I am on a roll upgrading house systems and now the 53 year old electric color-matched refrigerator is ready for a modernization
View attachment 18704
I hate to do away with the whole original theme to my coach but at some point, doing away with the old one is necessary to assure reliable service

I tested it out when I first got the coach and it cooled and froze as expected
I ran it yesterday and it started to cool but was not progressing
The previous owner had added a schlader valve to add refrigerant (propane) and the unit would probably work if I did that

Once I have the unit out, it can be serviced by a regular appliance tech if I so desire

New refrigerator:
I will need a refrigerator that will fit in the existing space...or nearly fit

The cutout appears to be 52.5" H 24" wide and reportedly 24" deep @ 52.5" high
Once I remove "Ol yellow" I can see how much space I actually have to work with

Absorption vs compressor technology:
Absorption allows the use of propane but requires venting. I would have to add the vent and plumb the gas line to the compartment. I am moving away from propane these days and going 12vdc, but I have to consider the options

Here is my leading contender for an absorption 3-way refrigerator

RV Refrigerator 6.3 Cubic Feet 3-Way Gas and 12v/110v Electric

Looking for a reliable and efficient way to keep your food fresh while on the road? Look no further than RecPro's RV refrigerator with three power options - DC 12v, AC 120v, and Propane.

recpro.com

A beautiful appliance, three-way power

But word-on-the-street is that modern 12vdc staged compressors work really well, even in hot weather and do not require venting
I looked at a lot of contenders but size was the biggest determining factor for selection

Here is the leading contender for 12vdc refrigerator

Norcold 8 Cu. Ft. 12V DC Right-Hinge Black Refrigerator (N8DCBKR)

The Norcold 8 Cu. Ft. 12V DC Right-Hinge Black Refrigerator (N8DCBKR) from Nomadic Supply Company® is a 12V compressor refrigerator designed for the road, featuring battery-saving night mode, travel latch,…

nomadicsupply.com

I can't wait to pull the fridge out and clean out the space
I will also insulate the compartment like others have suggested

Any suggestions?

It depends on your intended usage. If you intend to do any dry camping, you may want to go with an absorption refrigerator as it will use MUCH less electricity than any compressor type. They also SIP propane. If you have enough solar to keep up with the demand, AND recharge your batteries, or if you will always be plugged in to shore power, then a compressor type will not be a problem for you.

 

[tyler]

Part of why I like RV life is figuring what works, how, and if it works for you. Fridges are like AC units - they use a good amount of power to do a specific thing and there are several ways to do that and each has trade offs. In the coach I actually use I put in a 6 cubic foot apartment style that I got on Craigslist for $60. My driveway is sloped, so pre-chilling an absorption fridge was always a hassle (they need to be level for 24-48 hours to get good and cold). The newer style of small compressor fridges do not have fins/grid on the back but radiate from their sides and top, which changes how you vent the cabinet. I opened the front cabinet bevel and closed off the exterior venting. In the colder months that is a good thing, in the warmer, not as good. It still does not regulate temp as well as a house fridge, so we might add back in a small cooler for our milk and coffee cream. I was ready to play with solar panels and lithium house batteries which makes the AC power feasible for our level of no shore power camping.

 

[tmsnyder]

I see too many coaches that don't have the back baffle just exterior to the refrigerator fins, and are not channeling the rising air directly over the fins. Not directing the air is shooting the refrigerator in it's foot.
Maximum clearance from the fins to the back baffle is an inch or less. Very important for efficient heat transfer.

Totally agree, and I spent a fair amount of time getting the baffle right on my install.

We had a dorm size fridge in our old SOB, with an invertor and 2 or 3 solar panels. With that setup it was enough solar to boondock steady state.