Pork chop

Bruce Hart

Active member
Oct 18, 2011
1,414
6
38
I am working on a 78 Birchaven that is too low in the front. The adjusting bolts on the pork chops are bottomed out. I have ordered the extra long
bolts from Jim K. but need a question about the pork chop position with adjusting bolt removed and pork chop in its relaxed position. Should the pork
chop extend below the brace that it is housed in or in the case of this coach the pork chop is flush with the bottom of the brace and in need of
indexing the torsion bar one flat to correct position of pork chop.

Just looked up torsion bar in maintenance manual and the pork chop should be 1 1/2" to 2" below crossmember

From manual:
5. Insert torsion bar adjusting arm into crossmember, position so the arm will engage the torsion bar and the end of the arm will be 1-3/4"-2" below
the crossmember (See figure 17). Tap crossmember forward enough to engage bar into arm.

I love it when I can answer my own question. Goes to shown the manual is load with info if one just takes the time to read it.

I could have just not posted this thread but it might be helpful for some else down the road.
--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
 
Bruce, just a few words of caution regarding torsion bars themselves.
If you have a really flat floor or workbench that is longer than the
bars, and a very accurate digital level, give your bars a quick checkout.
Place your digital level across the hex on one end of the bar, get it
absolutely zeroed out, then transfer the level to the other end of the bar.
It should exactly match the other end. If it does not, your bar is fatigued
and twisted. More than 5°, and you will have a hard time getting to ride
height with that bar, even with the longer bolts. You have two options,
replace the bar, or acquire a pork chop that has the internal socket
twisted about the amount that your bar is twisted. They are available.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019, 6:26 PM Bruce Hart via Gmclist <

> I am working on a 78 Birchaven that is too low in the front. The adjusting
> bolts on the pork chops are bottomed out. I have ordered the extra long
> bolts from Jim K. but need a question about the pork chop position with
> adjusting bolt removed and pork chop in its relaxed position. Should the
> pork
> chop extend below the brace that it is housed in or in the case of this
> coach the pork chop is flush with the bottom of the brace and in need of
> indexing the torsion bar one flat to correct position of pork chop.
>
> Just looked up torsion bar in maintenance manual and the pork chop should
> be 1 1/2" to 2" below crossmember
>
> From manual:
> 5. Insert torsion bar adjusting arm into crossmember, position so the arm
> will engage the torsion bar and the end of the arm will be 1-3/4"-2" below
> the crossmember (See figure 17). Tap crossmember forward enough to engage
> bar into arm.
>
> I love it when I can answer my own question. Goes to shown the manual is
> load with info if one just takes the time to read it.
>
> I could have just not posted this thread but it might be helpful for some
> else down the road.
> --
> Bruce Hart
> 1976 Palm Beach
> Milliken, Co
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Thanks Jim

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 10:00 PM James Hupy via Gmclist <

> Bruce, just a few words of caution regarding torsion bars themselves.
> If you have a really flat floor or workbench that is longer than the
> bars, and a very accurate digital level, give your bars a quick checkout.
> Place your digital level across the hex on one end of the bar, get it
> absolutely zeroed out, then transfer the level to the other end of the bar.
> It should exactly match the other end. If it does not, your bar is fatigued
> and twisted. More than 5°, and you will have a hard time getting to ride
> height with that bar, even with the longer bolts. You have two options,
> replace the bar, or acquire a pork chop that has the internal socket
> twisted about the amount that your bar is twisted. They are available.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
>
> On Sun, Nov 17, 2019, 6:26 PM Bruce Hart via Gmclist <

>
> > I am working on a 78 Birchaven that is too low in the front. The
> adjusting
> > bolts on the pork chops are bottomed out. I have ordered the extra long
> > bolts from Jim K. but need a question about the pork chop position with
> > adjusting bolt removed and pork chop in its relaxed position. Should the
> > pork
> > chop extend below the brace that it is housed in or in the case of this
> > coach the pork chop is flush with the bottom of the brace and in need of
> > indexing the torsion bar one flat to correct position of pork chop.
> >
> > Just looked up torsion bar in maintenance manual and the pork chop should
> > be 1 1/2" to 2" below crossmember
> >
> > From manual:
> > 5. Insert torsion bar adjusting arm into crossmember, position so the
> arm
> > will engage the torsion bar and the end of the arm will be 1-3/4"-2"
> below
> > the crossmember (See figure 17). Tap crossmember forward enough to engage
> > bar into arm.
> >
> > I love it when I can answer my own question. Goes to shown the manual is
> > load with info if one just takes the time to read it.
> >
> > I could have just not posted this thread but it might be helpful for some
> > else down the road.
> > --
> > Bruce Hart
> > 1976 Palm Beach
> > Milliken, Co
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
 
Hey Bruce,

I am working on my front end right now (replacing all the bushings, ball
joints, etc). Rented the GM torsion bar unloader tool from Autozone (free
tool loan, but have to leave an $80 deposit in case you don't bring it
back). Once unloaded my porkchops were indeed about 2 inches below the
crossmember. Also I checked when removing the adjusting bolts, I had 14
turns (8 tenths of an inch), which leaves lots of room for adjustment.

Of course in typical fashion I was excited about getting started and
unloaded the bars, removed the brakes, etc, and then realized that I had
forgotten to release the spindle nuts. Rats.......had to put it all back
together and I am still working on releasing the spindle nuts. Using a 1.5
inch socket on a 3/4" driver. Going to get a longer persuader pipe section
this evening ;)

Rich

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 9:26 PM Bruce Hart via Gmclist <

> I am working on a 78 Birchaven that is too low in the front. The adjusting
> bolts on the pork chops are bottomed out. I have ordered the extra long
> bolts from Jim K. but need a question about the pork chop position with
> adjusting bolt removed and pork chop in its relaxed position. Should the
> pork
> chop extend below the brace that it is housed in or in the case of this
> coach the pork chop is flush with the bottom of the brace and in need of
> indexing the torsion bar one flat to correct position of pork chop.
>
> Just looked up torsion bar in maintenance manual and the pork chop should
> be 1 1/2" to 2" below crossmember
>
> From manual:
> 5. Insert torsion bar adjusting arm into crossmember, position so the arm
> will engage the torsion bar and the end of the arm will be 1-3/4"-2" below
> the crossmember (See figure 17). Tap crossmember forward enough to engage
> bar into arm.
>
> I love it when I can answer my own question. Goes to shown the manual is
> load with info if one just takes the time to read it.
>
> I could have just not posted this thread but it might be helpful for some
> else down the road.
> --
> Bruce Hart
> 1976 Palm Beach
> Milliken, Co
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Would Autozone have an impact driver and 1 1/2" socket to rent !!

On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 5:51 AM Rich Kinas via Gmclist <

> Hey Bruce,
>
> I am working on my front end right now (replacing all the bushings, ball
> joints, etc). Rented the GM torsion bar unloader tool from Autozone (free
> tool loan, but have to leave an $80 deposit in case you don't bring it
> back). Once unloaded my porkchops were indeed about 2 inches below the
> crossmember. Also I checked when removing the adjusting bolts, I had 14
> turns (8 tenths of an inch), which leaves lots of room for adjustment.
>
> Of course in typical fashion I was excited about getting started and
> unloaded the bars, removed the brakes, etc, and then realized that I had
> forgotten to release the spindle nuts. Rats.......had to put it all back
> together and I am still working on releasing the spindle nuts. Using a 1.5
> inch socket on a 3/4" driver. Going to get a longer persuader pipe section
> this evening ;)
>
> Rich
>
> On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 9:26 PM Bruce Hart via Gmclist <

>
> > I am working on a 78 Birchaven that is too low in the front. The
> adjusting
> > bolts on the pork chops are bottomed out. I have ordered the extra long
> > bolts from Jim K. but need a question about the pork chop position with
> > adjusting bolt removed and pork chop in its relaxed position. Should the
> > pork
> > chop extend below the brace that it is housed in or in the case of this
> > coach the pork chop is flush with the bottom of the brace and in need of
> > indexing the torsion bar one flat to correct position of pork chop.
> >
> > Just looked up torsion bar in maintenance manual and the pork chop should
> > be 1 1/2" to 2" below crossmember
> >
> > From manual:
> > 5. Insert torsion bar adjusting arm into crossmember, position so the
> arm
> > will engage the torsion bar and the end of the arm will be 1-3/4"-2"
> below
> > the crossmember (See figure 17). Tap crossmember forward enough to engage
> > bar into arm.
> >
> > I love it when I can answer my own question. Goes to shown the manual is
> > load with info if one just takes the time to read it.
> >
> > I could have just not posted this thread but it might be helpful for some
> > else down the road.
> > --
> > Bruce Hart
> > 1976 Palm Beach
> > Milliken, Co
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
 
Bruce,
Have you checked the torsion bar sockets in the lower control arms? They have been known to blow out, causing the symptoms you are seeing.

Les Burt
Montreal
'75 Eleganza 26'

>
> Would Autozone have an impact driver and 1 1/2" socket to rent !!
>
>> On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 5:51 AM Rich Kinas via Gmclist <

>>
>> Hey Bruce,
>>
>> I am working on my front end right now (replacing all the bushings, ball
>> joints, etc). Rented the GM torsion bar unloader tool from Autozone (free
>> tool loan, but have to leave an $80 deposit in case you don't bring it
>> back). Once unloaded my porkchops were indeed about 2 inches below the
>> crossmember. Also I checked when removing the adjusting bolts, I had 14
>> turns (8 tenths of an inch), which leaves lots of room for adjustment.
>>
>> Of course in typical fashion I was excited about getting started and
>> unloaded the bars, removed the brakes, etc, and then realized that I had
>> forgotten to release the spindle nuts. Rats.......had to put it all back
>> together and I am still working on releasing the spindle nuts. Using a 1.5
>> inch socket on a 3/4" driver. Going to get a longer persuader pipe section
>> this evening ;)
>>
>> Rich
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 9:26 PM Bruce Hart via Gmclist <

>>
>>> I am working on a 78 Birchaven that is too low in the front. The
>> adjusting
>>> bolts on the pork chops are bottomed out. I have ordered the extra long
>>> bolts from Jim K. but need a question about the pork chop position with
>>> adjusting bolt removed and pork chop in its relaxed position. Should the
>>> pork
>>> chop extend below the brace that it is housed in or in the case of this
>>> coach the pork chop is flush with the bottom of the brace and in need of
>>> indexing the torsion bar one flat to correct position of pork chop.
>>>
>>> Just looked up torsion bar in maintenance manual and the pork chop should
>>> be 1 1/2" to 2" below crossmember
>>>
>>> From manual:
>>> 5. Insert torsion bar adjusting arm into crossmember, position so the
>> arm
>>> will engage the torsion bar and the end of the arm will be 1-3/4"-2"
>> below
>>> the crossmember (See figure 17). Tap crossmember forward enough to engage
>>> bar into arm.
>>>
>>> I love it when I can answer my own question. Goes to shown the manual is
>>> load with info if one just takes the time to read it.
>>>
>>> I could have just not posted this thread but it might be helpful for some
>>> else down the road.
>>> --
>>> Bruce Hart
>>> 1976 Palm Beach
>>> Milliken, Co
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
>
> --
> Bruce Hart
> 1976 Palm Beach
> Milliken, Co
> GMC=Got More Class
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
I am in agreement with Les. You really need to find out why the front is so low before trying to adjust it. I have seen that problem on one side only
and it was a bad socket. Twisted bars are definitely another possibility.

The guy sold the coach rather than fix the problem.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
If you are using one of the torsion bar tools that I make, and market
through Jim K., DO NOT USE IMPACT WRENCHES ON ANY OF THE THREADS. NO
WARRANTY IF YOU DO IT. Also, grease all the threads, as well as the ball
end with Extreme Pressure chassis grease. It will reduce the effort
required to tighten the tool by a whole bunch. I don't care what you do to
the Auto Zone tools, I don't have to warranty those.
Jim Hupy
Salem,Oregon

On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 6:03 AM Les Burt via Gmclist
wrote:

> Bruce,
> Have you checked the torsion bar sockets in the lower control arms? They
> have been known to blow out, causing the symptoms you are seeing.
>
> Les Burt
> Montreal
> '75 Eleganza 26'
>
>
> > On Nov 18, 2019, at 8:24 AM, Bruce Hart via Gmclist <

> >
> > Would Autozone have an impact driver and 1 1/2" socket to rent !!
> >
> >> On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 5:51 AM Rich Kinas via Gmclist <

> >>
> >> Hey Bruce,
> >>
> >> I am working on my front end right now (replacing all the bushings, ball
> >> joints, etc). Rented the GM torsion bar unloader tool from Autozone
> (free
> >> tool loan, but have to leave an $80 deposit in case you don't bring it
> >> back). Once unloaded my porkchops were indeed about 2 inches below the
> >> crossmember. Also I checked when removing the adjusting bolts, I had 14
> >> turns (8 tenths of an inch), which leaves lots of room for adjustment.
> >>
> >> Of course in typical fashion I was excited about getting started and
> >> unloaded the bars, removed the brakes, etc, and then realized that I had
> >> forgotten to release the spindle nuts. Rats.......had to put it all back
> >> together and I am still working on releasing the spindle nuts. Using a
> 1.5
> >> inch socket on a 3/4" driver. Going to get a longer persuader pipe
> section
> >> this evening ;)
> >>
> >> Rich
> >>
> >> On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 9:26 PM Bruce Hart via Gmclist <

> >>
> >>> I am working on a 78 Birchaven that is too low in the front. The
> >> adjusting
> >>> bolts on the pork chops are bottomed out. I have ordered the extra long
> >>> bolts from Jim K. but need a question about the pork chop position with
> >>> adjusting bolt removed and pork chop in its relaxed position. Should
> the
> >>> pork
> >>> chop extend below the brace that it is housed in or in the case of this
> >>> coach the pork chop is flush with the bottom of the brace and in need
> of
> >>> indexing the torsion bar one flat to correct position of pork chop.
> >>>
> >>> Just looked up torsion bar in maintenance manual and the pork chop
> should
> >>> be 1 1/2" to 2" below crossmember
> >>>
> >>> From manual:
> >>> 5. Insert torsion bar adjusting arm into crossmember, position so the
> >> arm
> >>> will engage the torsion bar and the end of the arm will be 1-3/4"-2"
> >> below
> >>> the crossmember (See figure 17). Tap crossmember forward enough to
> engage
> >>> bar into arm.
> >>>
> >>> I love it when I can answer my own question. Goes to shown the manual
> is
> >>> load with info if one just takes the time to read it.
> >>>
> >>> I could have just not posted this thread but it might be helpful for
> some
> >>> else down the road.
> >>> --
> >>> Bruce Hart
> >>> 1976 Palm Beach
> >>> Milliken, Co
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> GMCnet mailing list
> >>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >>>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >>
> >
> >
> > --
> > Bruce Hart
> > 1976 Palm Beach
> > Milliken, Co
> > GMC=Got More Class
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
The 23 footers are not as prone to ride height issues as are the later
model 26 foot coaches. Not so heavy duty on the front. Be sure to correct
the rear ride height before adjusting the front. Just a suggestion.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 6:49 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist <

> I am in agreement with Les. You really need to find out why the front is
> so low before trying to adjust it. I have seen that problem on one side only
> and it was a bad socket. Twisted bars are definitely another
> possibility.
>
> The guy sold the coach rather than fix the problem.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
So not at the house right now but how much of a difference would one notch
on the pork-chop be? 60 deg for a hexagon. 4"sin(60) = 1.7" so it would
appear that the porkchop may have been slipped onto the torsion bar one
notch (60 deg) to much or too little depending on how you look at things I
guess. For the Passenger side this would be needing to rotate the porkchop
clockwise looking at the end of the torsion bar in the cross-member, and
looking forward. This was just doing some quick math, so others please
check me on this, and it may not be correct....

Rich

On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 11:15 AM James Hupy via Gmclist <

> The 23 footers are not as prone to ride height issues as are the later
> model 26 foot coaches. Not so heavy duty on the front. Be sure to correct
> the rear ride height before adjusting the front. Just a suggestion.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
>
> On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 6:49 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist <

>
> > I am in agreement with Les. You really need to find out why the front is
> > so low before trying to adjust it. I have seen that problem on one side
> only
> > and it was a bad socket. Twisted bars are definitely another
> > possibility.
> >
> > The guy sold the coach rather than fix the problem.
> > --
> > Ken Burton - N9KB
> > 76 Palm Beach
> > Hebron, Indiana
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Thanks to you all for your input.

On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 12:44 PM Rich Kinas via Gmclist <

> So not at the house right now but how much of a difference would one notch
> on the pork-chop be? 60 deg for a hexagon. 4"sin(60) = 1.7" so it would
> appear that the porkchop may have been slipped onto the torsion bar one
> notch (60 deg) to much or too little depending on how you look at things I
> guess. For the Passenger side this would be needing to rotate the porkchop
> clockwise looking at the end of the torsion bar in the cross-member, and
> looking forward. This was just doing some quick math, so others please
> check me on this, and it may not be correct....
>
> Rich
>
> On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 11:15 AM James Hupy via Gmclist <

>
> > The 23 footers are not as prone to ride height issues as are the later
> > model 26 foot coaches. Not so heavy duty on the front. Be sure to correct
> > the rear ride height before adjusting the front. Just a suggestion.
> > Jim Hupy
> > Salem, Oregon
> >
> > On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 6:49 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist <

> >
> > > I am in agreement with Les. You really need to find out why the front
> is
> > > so low before trying to adjust it. I have seen that problem on one side
> > only
> > > and it was a bad socket. Twisted bars are definitely another
> > > possibility.
> > >
> > > The guy sold the coach rather than fix the problem.
> > > --
> > > Ken Burton - N9KB
> > > 76 Palm Beach
> > > Hebron, Indiana
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
 
What would happen if you swapped bars from left to right side of coach? Twisting in the other direction....Good or bad idea?
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
BAD!

You can swap end to end but not left and right! Think abut it.

Emery Stora

>
> What would happen if you swapped bars from left to right side of coach? Twisting in the other direction....Good or bad idea?
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
BAD idea!

The torsion bars are pre-stressed during manufacture. There's a limit to
the amount of stress a body can withstand without "yielding", or taking a
permanent set. After the yield point, the strength of the body is GREATLY
reduced. To allow a greater range of movement (stress) possible without
reaching the yield (and loss of strength) point, the bar is "pre-bent" in
the opposite direction of the expected load. That's why the bars have the
L and R marking -- to be sure they'll ONLY be located correctly. Reversing
the location would greatly increase the probability of the bar taking
additional set -- or worse.

Ken H.

On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 10:08 PM Larry via Gmclist
wrote:

> What would happen if you swapped bars from left to right side of coach?
> Twisting in the other direction....Good or bad idea?
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
> So not at the house right now but how much of a difference would one notch on the pork-chop be? 60 deg for a hexagon. 4"sin(60) = 1.7" so it would
> appear that the porkchop may have been slipped onto the torsion bar one notch (60 deg) to much or too little depending on how you look at things I
> guess. For the Passenger side this would be needing to rotate the porkchop clockwise looking at the end of the torsion bar in the cross-member, and
> looking forward. This was just doing some quick math, so others please check me on this, and it may not be correct....
>
> Rich

Rich,

As a result of recent experience....
If you are a flat out on anything, it will not go back together.
I was told, but have never seen, porkchops with different offsets to the hex.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Hi Rich,

If the drive axle nut is giving you trouble, I had a 3/4" breaker bar, 1-1/2" socket, and a couple extra feet of pipe on mine. With a jackstand
under the socket end of the bar, and 250 lb (me) bouncing on the other end of the bar, there was at least 750 ft-lb of torque on the nut and it
wouldn't come off.

Just out of curiousity I put my 1/2" air impact on it using a crappy little pancake compressor and it came right off. There's a lot to be said for
the hammering impact action of an air gun. Also have heard great things about the Milwaukee cordless 1/2" impact. Maybe try impact?

Todd
--
Todd Snyder, Buffalo NY
1976 Eleganza II
 
Todd,

I tried my air gun @120psi and it would not move the nut. Going to try a
long pipe extension on the 3/4" driver and see what happens. Maybe a
combination of the two is whats required, alternating between the
two....we'll see...

Thanks,

Rich

On Tue, Nov 19, 2019 at 9:11 AM Todd Snyder via Gmclist <

> Hi Rich,
>
> If the drive axle nut is giving you trouble, I had a 3/4" breaker bar,
> 1-1/2" socket, and a couple extra feet of pipe on mine. With a jackstand
> under the socket end of the bar, and 250 lb (me) bouncing on the other end
> of the bar, there was at least 750 ft-lb of torque on the nut and it
> wouldn't come off.
>
> Just out of curiousity I put my 1/2" air impact on it using a crappy
> little pancake compressor and it came right off. There's a lot to be said
> for
> the hammering impact action of an air gun. Also have heard great things
> about the Milwaukee cordless 1/2" impact. Maybe try impact?
>
> Todd
> --
> Todd Snyder, Buffalo NY
> 1976 Eleganza II
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
> BAD idea!
>
> The torsion bars are pre-stressed during manufacture. There's a limit to
> the amount of stress a body can withstand without "yielding", or taking a
> permanent set. After the yield point, the strength of the body is GREATLY
> reduced. To allow a greater range of movement (stress) possible without
> reaching the yield (and loss of strength) point, the bar is "pre-bent" in
> the opposite direction of the expected load. That's why the bars have the
> L and R marking -- to be sure they'll ONLY be located correctly. Reversing
> the location would greatly increase the probability of the bar taking
> additional set -- or worse.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 10:08 PM Larry via Gmclist

>
> > What would happen if you swapped bars from left to right side of coach?
> > Twisting in the other direction....Good or bad idea?
> > --
> > Larry
> > 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> > Menomonie, WI.
> >

Thanks Ken,
I don't have the problem, but if I did I always wondered if I could do that....now I know. :)
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
Removed pork chops cleaned up torsion bar and chops. Reinstalled and
adjusted screws to max. Set the ride height on the rear.
Front ride height was out 1/2" low on both sides. Took a test drive on
I-25 for twenty minutes. Checked ride height on rear and it was correct.
Ride height on front is low by 1" on both sides. Waiting for the longer
torsion bolts to see if I can get the ride height to correct dim.

On Tue, Nov 19, 2019 at 12:04 PM Larry via Gmclist
wrote:

> > BAD idea!
> >
> > The torsion bars are pre-stressed during manufacture. There's a limit to
> > the amount of stress a body can withstand without "yielding", or taking a
> > permanent set. After the yield point, the strength of the body is
> GREATLY
> > reduced. To allow a greater range of movement (stress) possible without
> > reaching the yield (and loss of strength) point, the bar is "pre-bent" in
> > the opposite direction of the expected load. That's why the bars have
> the
> > L and R marking -- to be sure they'll ONLY be located correctly.
> Reversing
> > the location would greatly increase the probability of the bar taking
> > additional set -- or worse.
> >
> > Ken H.
> >
> > On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 10:08 PM Larry via Gmclist

> >
> > > What would happen if you swapped bars from left to right side of
> coach?
> > > Twisting in the other direction....Good or bad idea?
> > > --
> > > Larry
> > > 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> > > Menomonie, WI.
> > >
>
> Thanks Ken,
> I don't have the problem, but if I did I always wondered if I could do
> that....now I know. :)
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
 
Forgot to add that I did not index the pork chop. Wanted to get complete
data before changing anything.

> Removed pork chops cleaned up torsion bar and chops. Reinstalled and
> adjusted screws to max. Set the ride height on the rear.
> Front ride height was out 1/2" low on both sides. Took a test drive on
> I-25 for twenty minutes. Checked ride height on rear and it was correct.
> Ride height on front is low by 1" on both sides. Waiting for the longer
> torsion bolts to see if I can get the ride height to correct dim.
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 19, 2019 at 12:04 PM Larry via Gmclist <

>

>> > BAD idea!
>> >
>> > The torsion bars are pre-stressed during manufacture. There's a limit
>> to
>> > the amount of stress a body can withstand without "yielding", or taking
>> a
>> > permanent set. After the yield point, the strength of the body is
>> GREATLY
>> > reduced. To allow a greater range of movement (stress) possible without
>> > reaching the yield (and loss of strength) point, the bar is "pre-bent"
>> in
>> > the opposite direction of the expected load. That's why the bars have
>> the
>> > L and R marking -- to be sure they'll ONLY be located correctly.
>> Reversing
>> > the location would greatly increase the probability of the bar taking
>> > additional set -- or worse.
>> >
>> > Ken H.
>> >
>> > On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 10:08 PM Larry via Gmclist

>> >
>> > > What would happen if you swapped bars from left to right side of
>> coach?
>> > > Twisting in the other direction....Good or bad idea?
>> > > --
>> > > Larry
>> > > 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
>> > > Menomonie, WI.
>> > >
>>
>> Thanks Ken,
>> I don't have the problem, but if I did I always wondered if I could do
>> that....now I know. :)
>> --
>> Larry
>> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
>> Menomonie, WI.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
>
> --
> Bruce Hart
> 1976 Palm Beach
> Milliken, Co
> GMC=Got More Class
>
>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class