Onan! Please help Me!

[dave1]

>What I did was remove the front fly wheel and the sheet
>metal cover behind it. ....

**-> !!Major caveat!! HAS ANYONE EVER REMOVED THE REAR GENERATOR SECTION FROM THE ENGINE? ARE
>THERE ANY TRICKS OR WATCH OUT FORS BEFORE I REMOVE THIS SUCKER?

Its actually not that hard. I replaced the bearing and commutator on mine
when one of the commutator wires burned up. Its been a while but I think
there are just the four bolts holding the stator and a bolt holding the
shaft to the bearing. Be careful with the weight. The back half weighs as
much or more than the front half. Be sure that they are both well
supported. I don't recall any major problems getting it apart. Of course
replacing the commutator rings is a whole nuther story!

Given that its so much easier to work on when its out of the coach, it
would probably be a good idea to check the brushes and replace them if they
look worn.

If you do decide to take it apart, I would consider replacing the rear
bearing too.

Dave
73 Sequoia

 

[richard bachert]

Needless to say, both trichlor and perchlor are highly volitile and toxic
and must be used with great caution and LOTS OF VENTILATION. I can recall
my dad, who did large apparatus and marine propulsion service work for GE
out of Cleveland for many years standing at our workbench with his head over
a bucket of either the two solvents mentioned or, worse yet, CARBON
TETRACHLORIDE. This was long before the genuine health risks of these
materials were fully understood. Those years of exposure MAY have
contributed to his early demise.
BE CAREFUL WITH THESE SOLVENTS! Don't want to lose any of you guys and the
knowledge you contribute to this forum.
Dick 75 PB in Atlanta.

>

>
>(GENERATOR AREA). >>
>
>Scott - I would suggest that you use a chlorinated solvent (dry cleaning
>solvent) such as trichlorethylene or perchlorethylene to flush out the
>kerosene and dirt that you have pushed into the armature. This is a metal
>degreaser that electronics companies use to wash parts before assembly. It
>evaporates very quickly and doesn't leave a residue such as kerosene will.
>You might also check with an auto parts store to see if they have any parts
>degreaser such as that used in mechanic's parts cleaning tanks. Don't use
>anything with an oil base (this includes paint thinner). Even the carb
>cleaner in a spray can is better than kerosene. Kerosene leaves an oily
>residue on everything which will attract and hold dust and dirt. There is
>also lacquer thinner and acetone that do a good job of cleaning parts but
>they are a little strong for around plastics (insulated wires?). You can get
>those at a paint store. MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) should be OK. A paint
>store or a hardware store should have that. If you have any plastic parts be
>sure to test a dab on it before spraying.
>
>Emery Stora
>77 Kingsley
>Santa Fe, NM
>