Oil dipstick tube

We sell every part applied gmc

On Thu, Oct 10, 2019 at 9:21 PM Samuel Ferguson via Gmclist <

> Where would I be able to find a replacement oil dipstick tube?
> Just need the bottom section.
> --
> Samuel Ferguson
> Pittsfield, Illinois
> (West Central Illinois)
> 1976 GMC Palm Beach (A newbie who will not allow this thing to kick my
> butt!!)
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
Borrmann's just made me one up using semi-rigid steel tubing. He brazed a washer for the stop near the bottom.

When I got it home, I noted the oil level on the dipstick. Then I measured the distance on the original tube from the stop to the junction and cut the
new one to length. Then I rechecked the oil level on the dipstick and it was within 1/16" of the old tube measurement, so that's good by me.

I believe it was 5/16" tubing.

JWID

--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
 
GMC venders should have this part. I have gotten them from Sirum, and applied also has them. if you get the correct one, it is pretty easy to
change and fits just right. Should have a little ridge as a stop where it goes into the block.

remove the old one with a small slide hammer. and I have a little tool fabricated to tap the new one back down into the block. It is a nut, with a
1/4" round rod welded on to it. I rounded the back of the nut off a little bit, so it has a little more clearance between the block and the tube.
and it slides over the new dipstick tube and butts up to that flange, and then I can easily tap the tube right down into place.

--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
 
Has anyone ever tried to swap out the lower tube section without removing
the exhaust manifold? I need to swap out my lower section ( I have a new
lower section), but that center bolt in the exhaust manifolds just will not
budge and I am afraid I will break it off if I really get on it. I did
purchase new copper exhaust manifold gaskets in preparation for
reinstalling and would really like to use them and have unobstructed access
to the block when installing the lower dipstick tube but....that stupid
bolt! Also I like to make sure my coach is always drive-able so I can move
it around as needed, and the thought of it being stuck in one position for
an extended period of time while I stare at a broken exhaust bolt trying to
figure out how to deal with that makes me very nervous....

On Fri, Oct 11, 2019 at 9:13 AM Jon Roche via Gmclist <

> GMC venders should have this part. I have gotten them from Sirum, and
> applied also has them. if you get the correct one, it is pretty easy to
> change and fits just right. Should have a little ridge as a stop where
> it goes into the block.
>
> remove the old one with a small slide hammer. and I have a little tool
> fabricated to tap the new one back down into the block. It is a nut, with
> a
> 1/4" round rod welded on to it. I rounded the back of the nut off a
> little bit, so it has a little more clearance between the block and the
> tube.
> and it slides over the new dipstick tube and butts up to that flange, and
> then I can easily tap the tube right down into place.
>
>
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Ah yes, the old corroded bolt trick. A couple that I use (more or less
successfully).
FIRST, BE KIND, GENTLE, AND PATIENT.
One ticked off yank on the breaker bar, and you are in do-do right up to
your neck.
SECOND, penetrating oil and a pinpoint heat source are your friends.
If you do not know them intimately, get to know them on a first name basis.
It will serve you well.
THIRD, LOW POWERED IMPACT TOOLS ARE YOUR FRIEND (or worst enemy,
depending upon how aggressively you apply their use).
So, open the hatch and spray your most effective penetrating agent
(there are many of them out there, and everyone professes to have the
secret mixture that will unlock anything and everything). Then, close the
hatch and walk away. Come back tomorrow, and repeat. 7 days is not too long
to repeat. NO JOKE. Give the stuff time to work.
Put a 6 point closed end wrench on the bolt, pull the wrench and tap,
tap, tap the end of the bolt with a hammer. If nothing budges, spray it
liberally with penetrant and WALK AWAY. Come back tomorrow with determined
resolve, and repeat the 6 point wrench trick. Try turning in both
directions. If it moves at all, your chances of success just improved a
great deal.
I have a battery powered 1/4 inch drive impact wrench. It will rattle
the hell out of those bolts, without snapping them off. I also have a
jeweler's oxy/acetylene torch with a tiny pinpoint flame that I use. Be
very, very carefull with flames under the hatch. Have an assistant with
lightning quick reactions and a cool head standing by with a CO2 or Halon
extinguisher when you do this. Absolutely not a dry chemical one. Apply
heat to the bolt and get it hot but not red hot. Then spray a couple of
quick squirts of penetrating oil on it. It might flare up briefly and smoke
like mad. Just blow it out with your breath, and apply the impact tricks
again. Repeat. BE PATIENT, you only have a stuck bolt. If you yank on that
wrench with too much force, you will set yourself up for a whole bunch of
work.
Jim Hupy
Salem,Oregon

On Sat, Oct 12, 2019, 6:35 AM Samuel Ferguson via Gmclist <

> This is what I am going to have to deal with when I get brave enough to
> start trying to remove exhaust manifold bolts.
>
> Sam
> --
> Samuel Ferguson
> Pittsfield, Illinois
> (West Central Illinois)
> 1976 GMC Palm Beach (A newbie who will not allow this thing to kick my
> butt!!)
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Perfect Hupy.

Sully
Bellevue wa.

On Sat, Oct 12, 2019 at 7:13 AM James Hupy via Gmclist <

> Ah yes, the old corroded bolt trick. A couple that I use (more or less
> successfully).
> FIRST, BE KIND, GENTLE, AND PATIENT.
> One ticked off yank on the breaker bar, and you are in do-do right up to
> your neck.
> SECOND, penetrating oil and a pinpoint heat source are your friends.
> If you do not know them intimately, get to know them on a first name basis.
> It will serve you well.
> THIRD, LOW POWERED IMPACT TOOLS ARE YOUR FRIEND (or worst enemy,
> depending upon how aggressively you apply their use).
> So, open the hatch and spray your most effective penetrating agent
> (there are many of them out there, and everyone professes to have the
> secret mixture that will unlock anything and everything). Then, close the
> hatch and walk away. Come back tomorrow, and repeat. 7 days is not too long
> to repeat. NO JOKE. Give the stuff time to work.
> Put a 6 point closed end wrench on the bolt, pull the wrench and tap,
> tap, tap the end of the bolt with a hammer. If nothing budges, spray it
> liberally with penetrant and WALK AWAY. Come back tomorrow with determined
> resolve, and repeat the 6 point wrench trick. Try turning in both
> directions. If it moves at all, your chances of success just improved a
> great deal.
> I have a battery powered 1/4 inch drive impact wrench. It will rattle
> the hell out of those bolts, without snapping them off. I also have a
> jeweler's oxy/acetylene torch with a tiny pinpoint flame that I use. Be
> very, very carefull with flames under the hatch. Have an assistant with
> lightning quick reactions and a cool head standing by with a CO2 or Halon
> extinguisher when you do this. Absolutely not a dry chemical one. Apply
> heat to the bolt and get it hot but not red hot. Then spray a couple of
> quick squirts of penetrating oil on it. It might flare up briefly and smoke
> like mad. Just blow it out with your breath, and apply the impact tricks
> again. Repeat. BE PATIENT, you only have a stuck bolt. If you yank on that
> wrench with too much force, you will set yourself up for a whole bunch of
> work.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem,Oregon
>
> On Sat, Oct 12, 2019, 6:35 AM Samuel Ferguson via Gmclist <

>
> > This is what I am going to have to deal with when I get brave enough to
> > start trying to remove exhaust manifold bolts.
> >
> > Sam
> > --
> > Samuel Ferguson
> > Pittsfield, Illinois
> > (West Central Illinois)
> > 1976 GMC Palm Beach (A newbie who will not allow this thing to kick my
> > butt!!)
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Great suggestions. I have already been periodically spraying the bolts with penetrating oil for the last month every couple of days. I don't have a
jewelers torch but I do have a mig welder that I was considering using to create a weld on the top of the bolt to get it nice and hot, while not
buggering up the sides of the head. Are there any red flags on doing this, other than keeping the fire extinguisher handy? Also because of the way the
bolts are oriented, I'm not sure how much penetrating oil actually makes it to the threads, so I was considering making like a little bath tub for the
head to sit in out of aluminum tape. This way I could fill up the little bath with penetrating oil and hopefully it would flow (creep) into the
threads. Or is this just a wast of time? Eventually I just have to get on with it and deal with the results. One followup question would be how
important is this bolt for sealing the exhaust manifold? Could you run without it, at least until the engine needs a rebuild (which hopefully will be
a long time from now)...

--
Rich Kinas
1976 Elaganza II
Orlando, FL
 
Jim
I like your write up a lot. The only thing I would add from my time working on 50-80 year old farm equip. Is a week is usually my target time and
often it's longer and every day that I apply my solution I give the bolt a few light taps with the hammer straight on. I found it disrupts the next
dry area of rust on the thread allowing the penetrant to seep just a little further.

Just my two cents.
--
M Beam
75’ Avion Lots of Mods
Zuki Sidekick,
Dozier Al
 
I see my reply never made it to the forum.

Most will tell you if that middle bolt breaks off, just leave it. Others will say even if it does not break, leave it out. Most should agree
that you do not want to overtighten that middle top bolt.

That bolt is the only one that "goes into the head". You dont have access to the backside of the bolt. The others go "through the head". At
the spark plug locations. You can get to the backside of the bolt.

So make sure you see that and the other 4 bolts can use some penetrating oil on the back side of the bolt, in the spark plug hole.

--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
 
So good news...I got the drivers side manifold off (doing one side at a
time). I was originally trying to remove the center bold from inside the
coach, then decided to ensure I had more control over the amount of torque
I was applying that I should attack from the wheel well. Jacked up the
drivers front, removed the wheel well cover and had direct access. The bolt
was actually not that hard to remove, after a month of soaking...Did not
even have to apply heat! Although ran out of time today and will have to
wait until Wednesday to tackle removing the broken stub of dipstick tube
going into the block and installing the new lower section. I was planning
on just clamping on some vice grips and tapping upward with a hammer to
remove. Is this a good or a bad idea?

Thanks for all the suggestions

Rich

On Sun, Oct 13, 2019 at 12:37 PM Jon Roche via Gmclist <

> I see my reply never made it to the forum.
>
> Most will tell you if that middle bolt breaks off, just leave it.
> Others will say even if it does not break, leave it out. Most should
> agree
> that you do not want to overtighten that middle top bolt.
>
> That bolt is the only one that "goes into the head". You dont have
> access to the backside of the bolt. The others go "through the head".
> At
> the spark plug locations. You can get to the backside of the bolt.
>
> So make sure you see that and the other 4 bolts can use some penetrating
> oil on the back side of the bolt, in the spark plug hole.
>
>
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Insert a bolt in the broken off tube before gripping it with the lockgrips.

Ken H.

On Sun, Oct 13, 2019, 7:47 PM Rich Kinas via Gmclist <

> So good news...I got the drivers side manifold off (doing one side at a
> time). I was originally trying to remove the center bold from inside the
> coach, then decided to ensure I had more control over the amount of torque
> I was applying that I should attack from the wheel well. Jacked up the
> drivers front, removed the wheel well cover and had direct access. The bolt
> was actually not that hard to remove, after a month of soaking...Did not
> even have to apply heat! Although ran out of time today and will have to
> wait until Wednesday to tackle removing the broken stub of dipstick tube
> going into the block and installing the new lower section. I was planning
> on just clamping on some vice grips and tapping upward with a hammer to
> remove. Is this a good or a bad idea?
>
> Thanks for all the suggestions
>
> Rich
>
> On Sun, Oct 13, 2019 at 12:37 PM Jon Roche via Gmclist <

>
> > I see my reply never made it to the forum.
> >
> > Most will tell you if that middle bolt breaks off, just leave it.
> > Others will say even if it does not break, leave it out. Most should
> > agree
> > that you do not want to overtighten that middle top bolt.
> >
> > That bolt is the only one that "goes into the head". You dont have
> > access to the backside of the bolt. The others go "through the
> head".
> > At
> > the spark plug locations. You can get to the backside of the bolt.
> >
> > So make sure you see that and the other 4 bolts can use some penetrating
> > oil on the back side of the bolt, in the spark plug hole.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Jon Roche
> > 75 palm beach
> > St. Cloud, MN
> > http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Put a long bolt into the stub and clamp your visegrips onto that.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick CO

>
> So good news...I got the drivers side manifold off (doing one side at a
> time). I was originally trying to remove the center bold from inside the
> coach, then decided to ensure I had more control over the amount of torque
> I was applying that I should attack from the wheel well. Jacked up the
> drivers front, removed the wheel well cover and had direct access. The bolt
> was actually not that hard to remove, after a month of soaking...Did not
> even have to apply heat! Although ran out of time today and will have to
> wait until Wednesday to tackle removing the broken stub of dipstick tube
> going into the block and installing the new lower section. I was planning
> on just clamping on some vice grips and tapping upward with a hammer to
> remove. Is this a good or a bad idea?
>
> Thanks for all the suggestions
>
> Rich
>
> On Sun, Oct 13, 2019 at 12:37 PM Jon Roche via Gmclist <

>
>> I see my reply never made it to the forum.
>>
>> Most will tell you if that middle bolt breaks off, just leave it.
>> Others will say even if it does not break, leave it out. Most should
>> agree
>> that you do not want to overtighten that middle top bolt.
>>
>> That bolt is the only one that "goes into the head". You dont have
>> access to the backside of the bolt. The others go "through the head".
>> At
>> the spark plug locations. You can get to the backside of the bolt.
>>
>> So make sure you see that and the other 4 bolts can use some penetrating
>> oil on the back side of the bolt, in the spark plug hole.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jon Roche
>> 75 palm beach
>> St. Cloud, MN
>> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
I totally agree with every thing Jim suggested. I always use Kroil or acetone and ATF for soaking. A little heat always helps so I soak it first and
hit it in both directions with a 1/4" impact wrench for about 2 seconds each direction. If it is not loose, I start the vehicle to heat up the
manifolds and bolts. Shut it off, and shock cool the bolts with Kroil. Then let them it soak for another day. The next day(s) I do the same thing.
Usually it takes 3 to 5 days and they will spin right out. Be careful if you use a Harbor Freight (Bauer) 1/4" impact as it has more torque than most
other brands. I usually borrow my friends 1/4" Dewalt for something like this because it is much weaker.

I had a friend helping me on another project a few weeks ago and after he broke his second 5/16" bolt with my HF impact, I gave him a borrowed Dewalt
and he never broke another one. Time, and soaking is more important that a higher torque wrench.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Great suggestion on the bolt into the tube before clamping. Thanks. Slide
hammer may be easier but I don't have one so will try it without it first
and see how it goes.

Rich

On Mon, Oct 14, 2019 at 1:51 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist <

> I totally agree with every thing Jim suggested. I always use Kroil or
> acetone and ATF for soaking. A little heat always helps so I soak it first
> and
> hit it in both directions with a 1/4" impact wrench for about 2 seconds
> each direction. If it is not loose, I start the vehicle to heat up the
> manifolds and bolts. Shut it off, and shock cool the bolts with Kroil.
> Then let them it soak for another day. The next day(s) I do the same
> thing.
> Usually it takes 3 to 5 days and they will spin right out. Be careful if
> you use a Harbor Freight (Bauer) 1/4" impact as it has more torque than most
> other brands. I usually borrow my friends 1/4" Dewalt for something like
> this because it is much weaker.
>
> I had a friend helping me on another project a few weeks ago and after he
> broke his second 5/16" bolt with my HF impact, I gave him a borrowed Dewalt
> and he never broke another one. Time, and soaking is more important that
> a higher torque wrench.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Whatever you do, DO NOT BEND IT FROM SIDE TO SIDE, it is brittle, and will
break off flush with the block. A straight in-line pull is best. The slide
hammer trick works very well. Consider renting one.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Mon, Oct 14, 2019, 5:58 AM Rich Kinas via Gmclist <

> Great suggestion on the bolt into the tube before clamping. Thanks. Slide
> hammer may be easier but I don't have one so will try it without it first
> and see how it goes.
>
> Rich
>
> On Mon, Oct 14, 2019 at 1:51 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist <

>
> > I totally agree with every thing Jim suggested. I always use Kroil or
> > acetone and ATF for soaking. A little heat always helps so I soak it
> first
> > and
> > hit it in both directions with a 1/4" impact wrench for about 2 seconds
> > each direction. If it is not loose, I start the vehicle to heat up the
> > manifolds and bolts. Shut it off, and shock cool the bolts with Kroil.
> > Then let them it soak for another day. The next day(s) I do the same
> > thing.
> > Usually it takes 3 to 5 days and they will spin right out. Be careful if
> > you use a Harbor Freight (Bauer) 1/4" impact as it has more torque than
> most
> > other brands. I usually borrow my friends 1/4" Dewalt for something like
> > this because it is much weaker.
> >
> > I had a friend helping me on another project a few weeks ago and after he
> > broke his second 5/16" bolt with my HF impact, I gave him a borrowed
> Dewalt
> > and he never broke another one. Time, and soaking is more important that
> > a higher torque wrench.
> > --
> > Ken Burton - N9KB
> > 76 Palm Beach
> > Hebron, Indiana
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Your chain parts stores (Autozone, O'Reilys) have loaner tools. You might want to check with them.
--
Patti & Jerry Burt Fresno, CA.
73 Gmc 26' Canyon Lands
77 Palm Beach - Parts Coach
Members: FMCA - GMCMI - GMCWS
A truly happy person is one who can enjoy the scenery on a detour.
 
> So good news...I got the drivers side manifold off (doing one side at a
> time). I was originally trying to remove the center bold from inside the
> coach, then decided to ensure I had more control over the amount of torque
> I was applying that I should attack from the wheel well. Jacked up the
> drivers front, removed the wheel well cover and had direct access. The bolt
> was actually not that hard to remove, after a month of soaking...Did not
> even have to apply heat! Although ran out of time today and will have to
> wait until Wednesday to tackle removing the broken stub of dipstick tube
> going into the block and installing the new lower section. I was planning
> on just clamping on some vice grips and tapping upward with a hammer to
> remove. Is this a good or a bad idea?

I have removed a broken oil tube stub (broken even with the block) a couple of times. I have a long piece of small all-thread (maybe 1/8"). I thread a
nut onto both ends. On one, I grind the nut so it fits into the tube. I then insert into the tube until the nut reaches the end of the tube and pull
up until it laches on to the edge of the tube. Then with something like vise grips that I can loosely put onto the all-thread, I use that as a slide
hammer to slide up against the second nut. A few taps and up pops the tube. In the ones I have done, I did not even have to use any penetrants. Since
you have exposed tube above the block then inserting a bolt and clamping the tube with vise grips seems viable. My method may be something you
consider especially if you break the tube flush with the block. BTW...I have even done this without removing the headers, although it is difficult to
get the new tube aligned with the hole in the block because it is obscured. I ended up putting the all-thread back into the hole (without nuts
attached) and using that as a guide for the new tube.

--
Randy & Margie
'77 Eleganza II '403'
Battlefield, MO
 
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