Boy these are a lot of fun....spent all day yesterday, but finally got the
old one out and the new one installed! For removal, I could not get enough
umph on anything sliding to get the old one out. What I ended up doing is
inserting a bolt into what was left and clamping vicegrips as tight as I
could get them (which was pretty darn tight, onto the section with the bolt
in it. Then crawled under the coach, had it jacked up (centered on the
engine cross member) and supported with 4, 3 ton jack stands (can never be
too careful) with all 4 rear tires blocked and the front wheels under the
side rails (again I am paranoid when it comes to potentially being crushed
to death). Under the coach there is just enough room between the oil pan
and transmission to insert a long 18" 3/8 socket extension and have it rest
right on the vice grips and tube. Then just some gentle tapping on end with
my trusty general purpose tool (hammer) it slid right out. Ok it slid right
out the second time, the first time the bolt and vicegrips just ripped the
remaining rusted bit of tube off, but then I had good tube to clamp to and
out she came! To install the new section of tube I acquired some 2000deg
paint from my local ACE store (did not know they made this high of temp
paint) and painted the tube above the lip (part that stays out of the oil
pan), oiled up the tube below the lip and correctly positioned it. To tap
it in, I used a 3/8" crowsfoot (I think it was 3/8) and socket extender
then just tapped the socket extender to set the tube in place. It started
kinda difficult but after an inch was in it just slid in with just a little
effort.
On Wed, Oct 16, 2019 at 9:53 AM Randy Van Winkle via Gmclist <
> > So good news...I got the drivers side manifold off (doing one side at a
> > time). I was originally trying to remove the center bold from inside the
> > coach, then decided to ensure I had more control over the amount of
> torque
> > I was applying that I should attack from the wheel well. Jacked up the
> > drivers front, removed the wheel well cover and had direct access. The
> bolt
> > was actually not that hard to remove, after a month of soaking...Did not
> > even have to apply heat! Although ran out of time today and will have to
> > wait until Wednesday to tackle removing the broken stub of dipstick tube
> > going into the block and installing the new lower section. I was planning
> > on just clamping on some vice grips and tapping upward with a hammer to
> > remove. Is this a good or a bad idea?
>
> I have removed a broken oil tube stub (broken even with the block) a
> couple of times. I have a long piece of small all-thread (maybe 1/8"). I
> thread a
> nut onto both ends. On one, I grind the nut so it fits into the tube. I
> then insert into the tube until the nut reaches the end of the tube and pull
> up until it laches on to the edge of the tube. Then with something like
> vise grips that I can loosely put onto the all-thread, I use that as a slide
> hammer to slide up against the second nut. A few taps and up pops the
> tube. In the ones I have done, I did not even have to use any penetrants.
> Since
> you have exposed tube above the block then inserting a bolt and clamping
> the tube with vise grips seems viable. My method may be something you
> consider especially if you break the tube flush with the block. BTW...I
> have even done this without removing the headers, although it is difficult
> to
> get the new tube aligned with the hole in the block because it is
> obscured. I ended up putting the all-thread back into the hole (without nuts
> attached) and using that as a guide for the new tube.
>
> --
> Randy & Margie
> '77 Eleganza II '403'
> Battlefield, MO
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
old one out and the new one installed! For removal, I could not get enough
umph on anything sliding to get the old one out. What I ended up doing is
inserting a bolt into what was left and clamping vicegrips as tight as I
could get them (which was pretty darn tight, onto the section with the bolt
in it. Then crawled under the coach, had it jacked up (centered on the
engine cross member) and supported with 4, 3 ton jack stands (can never be
too careful) with all 4 rear tires blocked and the front wheels under the
side rails (again I am paranoid when it comes to potentially being crushed
to death). Under the coach there is just enough room between the oil pan
and transmission to insert a long 18" 3/8 socket extension and have it rest
right on the vice grips and tube. Then just some gentle tapping on end with
my trusty general purpose tool (hammer) it slid right out. Ok it slid right
out the second time, the first time the bolt and vicegrips just ripped the
remaining rusted bit of tube off, but then I had good tube to clamp to and
out she came! To install the new section of tube I acquired some 2000deg
paint from my local ACE store (did not know they made this high of temp
paint) and painted the tube above the lip (part that stays out of the oil
pan), oiled up the tube below the lip and correctly positioned it. To tap
it in, I used a 3/8" crowsfoot (I think it was 3/8) and socket extender
then just tapped the socket extender to set the tube in place. It started
kinda difficult but after an inch was in it just slid in with just a little
effort.
On Wed, Oct 16, 2019 at 9:53 AM Randy Van Winkle via Gmclist <
> > So good news...I got the drivers side manifold off (doing one side at a
> > time). I was originally trying to remove the center bold from inside the
> > coach, then decided to ensure I had more control over the amount of
> torque
> > I was applying that I should attack from the wheel well. Jacked up the
> > drivers front, removed the wheel well cover and had direct access. The
> bolt
> > was actually not that hard to remove, after a month of soaking...Did not
> > even have to apply heat! Although ran out of time today and will have to
> > wait until Wednesday to tackle removing the broken stub of dipstick tube
> > going into the block and installing the new lower section. I was planning
> > on just clamping on some vice grips and tapping upward with a hammer to
> > remove. Is this a good or a bad idea?
>
> I have removed a broken oil tube stub (broken even with the block) a
> couple of times. I have a long piece of small all-thread (maybe 1/8"). I
> thread a
> nut onto both ends. On one, I grind the nut so it fits into the tube. I
> then insert into the tube until the nut reaches the end of the tube and pull
> up until it laches on to the edge of the tube. Then with something like
> vise grips that I can loosely put onto the all-thread, I use that as a slide
> hammer to slide up against the second nut. A few taps and up pops the
> tube. In the ones I have done, I did not even have to use any penetrants.
> Since
> you have exposed tube above the block then inserting a bolt and clamping
> the tube with vise grips seems viable. My method may be something you
> consider especially if you break the tube flush with the block. BTW...I
> have even done this without removing the headers, although it is difficult
> to
> get the new tube aligned with the hole in the block because it is
> obscured. I ended up putting the all-thread back into the hole (without nuts
> attached) and using that as a guide for the new tube.
>
> --
> Randy & Margie
> '77 Eleganza II '403'
> Battlefield, MO
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
