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You may still have vacuum leaks. At the time I was doing the installation,
I also replaced all the vacuum lines.
Very happy with mine
Manny Trovao
73 Custom/ex-Glacier
San Jose, California
Manny,
Osburn Rv in Albuquerque did my install and did not replace vacuum lines.
I'm sure that would help.
Thanks
Jerry
I also replaced all the vacuum lines.
Very happy with mine
Manny Trovao
73 Custom/ex-Glacier
San Jose, California
Manny,
Osburn Rv in Albuquerque did my install and did not replace vacuum lines.
I'm sure that would help.
Thanks
Jerry
Gene,
I too prefer electric gauges but have been unable to find 150 psi electric
gauges. My current 100 psi gauges sometimes overrange and the senders will
"stick". The only way to "unstick'" them is to depressure the air system;
then they will reset. The only 150 psi gauges I could find were for a Porsche
racing application and were unjustifiably expensive at about $100 each.
Fred Hudspeth
'78 Royale
I too prefer electric gauges but have been unable to find 150 psi electric
gauges. My current 100 psi gauges sometimes overrange and the senders will
"stick". The only way to "unstick'" them is to depressure the air system;
then they will reset. The only 150 psi gauges I could find were for a Porsche
racing application and were unjustifiably expensive at about $100 each.
Fred Hudspeth
'78 Royale
Mike,
Is the gauge electrical or mechanical? Does it go as high as 150 psi? If so,
I will stay with electrical (vs. mechanical) as I have the wiring already in
place. Also, is the diameter of the gauge 2 1/16 inches? That is the size of
the opening for my current gauges, also mounted next to the suspension
controls.
Thanks,
Fred Hudspeth
'78 Royale
Is the gauge electrical or mechanical? Does it go as high as 150 psi? If so,
I will stay with electrical (vs. mechanical) as I have the wiring already in
place. Also, is the diameter of the gauge 2 1/16 inches? That is the size of
the opening for my current gauges, also mounted next to the suspension
controls.
Thanks,
Fred Hudspeth
'78 Royale
>Just noticed your (now Custom). I like it.
>Manny Trovao
>73 Custom/ex-Glacier
>San Jose, California
I give you full credit for the idea...
I'd say... I'm darn near positive I got the idea from you about 6 months ago and
one day recently, the concept exploded in my brain, while looking at some of our
signatures and original models, that I knew didn't mean much any more. The best
example I can think of is '76 Transmode. The mental image I get, is a green and
white bus with the most startling feature being the door that looks like it sort
of grew onto the side of it, while I know the coach probably doesn't look like
that.
Regards... John 74 Glacier (now Custom) near Washington, DC
>Manny Trovao
>73 Custom/ex-Glacier
>San Jose, California
I give you full credit for the idea...
I'd say... I'm darn near positive I got the idea from you about 6 months ago and
one day recently, the concept exploded in my brain, while looking at some of our
signatures and original models, that I knew didn't mean much any more. The best
example I can think of is '76 Transmode. The mental image I get, is a green and
white bus with the most startling feature being the door that looks like it sort
of grew onto the side of it, while I know the coach probably doesn't look like
that.
Regards... John 74 Glacier (now Custom) near Washington, DC
Larry,
I ferried my SOB (an Airstream) to Alaska this past May for use during
summers there. I am a former long time resident of Alaska. We relocated to
Texas in '97 after retiring from our professional careers. In May, there was
about 100 miles of gravel and mud between Dawson Creek and Anchorage. And
that will likely be the case for many years to come as the original highway
is being continually upgraded. And the reconstructed road often has to be
repaired because of winter damage. There are no paved bypasses around the new
construction and repair work as there is here in the L 48.
While I would not drive my GMCMh on the Alaska highway again (I drove it to
Texas in Oct.'97), the trip IS very doable in a GMC. It will get very muddy
and you have to be very careful on frost heaved roads to avoid undercarriage
damage. The paint will be extensively chipped from gravel spray behind the
rear wheels and the lower part of the back wall. You also have to be careful
where you stop on unpaved surfaces as traction can be a big problem on steep
grades. The Airstream is built on a GM truck chassis (and it drives like a
truck too) but it has three times the ground clearance of a GMCMh and dual
rear wheels!! Another issue is service for the GMCMh on the Alaska Highway
and in Alaska. There are no service/repair facilities for these unique
vehicles. I prepared my GMC for the trip in summer '97 as though I was
preparing an aircraft. It was a mechanically uneventful trip.
'Hope this helps.
Fred Hudspeth
'78 Royale/Tyler, TX
I ferried my SOB (an Airstream) to Alaska this past May for use during
summers there. I am a former long time resident of Alaska. We relocated to
Texas in '97 after retiring from our professional careers. In May, there was
about 100 miles of gravel and mud between Dawson Creek and Anchorage. And
that will likely be the case for many years to come as the original highway
is being continually upgraded. And the reconstructed road often has to be
repaired because of winter damage. There are no paved bypasses around the new
construction and repair work as there is here in the L 48.
While I would not drive my GMCMh on the Alaska highway again (I drove it to
Texas in Oct.'97), the trip IS very doable in a GMC. It will get very muddy
and you have to be very careful on frost heaved roads to avoid undercarriage
damage. The paint will be extensively chipped from gravel spray behind the
rear wheels and the lower part of the back wall. You also have to be careful
where you stop on unpaved surfaces as traction can be a big problem on steep
grades. The Airstream is built on a GM truck chassis (and it drives like a
truck too) but it has three times the ground clearance of a GMCMh and dual
rear wheels!! Another issue is service for the GMCMh on the Alaska Highway
and in Alaska. There are no service/repair facilities for these unique
vehicles. I prepared my GMC for the trip in summer '97 as though I was
preparing an aircraft. It was a mechanically uneventful trip.
'Hope this helps.
Fred Hudspeth
'78 Royale/Tyler, TX
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>Gary--
>Just a question from someone who doesn't know----
>My previous (SOB) vehicles have all had a sheetmetal "chimney" and >IFRC
>the
>thing got pretty hot during propane operation of the refer. Are you >sure
>that
>there will be no fire potential with a fiberglass duct??? Other than
> >fire, it
>sounds like a great idea.
>Gary & Edie
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>Just a question from someone who doesn't know----
>My previous (SOB) vehicles have all had a sheetmetal "chimney" and >IFRC
>the
>thing got pretty hot during propane operation of the refer. Are you >sure
>that
>there will be no fire potential with a fiberglass duct??? Other than
> >fire, it
>sounds like a great idea.
>Gary & Edie
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Bill
I paid a LOT more for a remanufactured 80 amp alternator at a NAPA store in
Savannah, Ga. on 12 March '99. The price was $184.27 exchange. I did the
removal and reinstallation -- about a 30 minute job.
I am aware I probably could have rebuilt my OEM alternator for less than $20
in parts. But I was on the road enroute to the GMCMI Spring Convention at
Myrtle Beach, SC and paid a premium for convenience. I did not know, however,
that I was paying more than $100 above market for the NAPA replacement
alternator.
At the time I bought it, I compared the price to the $175 I paid for a 100
amp Ford remanufactured alternator (for a rare Lincoln Mark coupe with the
BMW turbodiesel drive train option) about 10 years ago. The Lincoln OEM
alternator was not repairable by just changing internal parts. Using that
experience as a basis, I reasoned that the price of the NAPA reman unit for
my GMCMh was not too unreasonable. It appears that my logic was wrong. If my
"apple" is the same as your "apple", it will certainly cause me to be more
analytical about anything I may consider buying from a NAPA store in the
future.
Fred Hudspeth
'78 Royale/Tyler, TX
I paid a LOT more for a remanufactured 80 amp alternator at a NAPA store in
Savannah, Ga. on 12 March '99. The price was $184.27 exchange. I did the
removal and reinstallation -- about a 30 minute job.
I am aware I probably could have rebuilt my OEM alternator for less than $20
in parts. But I was on the road enroute to the GMCMI Spring Convention at
Myrtle Beach, SC and paid a premium for convenience. I did not know, however,
that I was paying more than $100 above market for the NAPA replacement
alternator.
At the time I bought it, I compared the price to the $175 I paid for a 100
amp Ford remanufactured alternator (for a rare Lincoln Mark coupe with the
BMW turbodiesel drive train option) about 10 years ago. The Lincoln OEM
alternator was not repairable by just changing internal parts. Using that
experience as a basis, I reasoned that the price of the NAPA reman unit for
my GMCMh was not too unreasonable. It appears that my logic was wrong. If my
"apple" is the same as your "apple", it will certainly cause me to be more
analytical about anything I may consider buying from a NAPA store in the
future.
Fred Hudspeth
'78 Royale/Tyler, TX
My business experience tells me that any departure from components originally
certified by the USDOT subjects us to litigation risks, both as owners and
sellers. And the deeper the pockets are perceived to be, the greater the risk
of litigation. This is especially true in the aftermath of an accident,
regardless of whether the use of non-DOT certified components contributed to
the accident.
The safe logic is that if it is financially worthwhile for an attorney to
file suit on behalf of a client against someone who has modified a
USDOT-certified vehicle, a suit will be filed. If I were going to sell a
vehicle that has been modified, the least I would do is ask for a waiver of
legal liability from the buyer. And even that is not "bullet proof" armament
against litigation.
This is not to suggest that we should not modify our vehicles. But rather
assess the statistical probability of legal action as a result of our doing
so. If our assessment is that it is negligible, then proceed accordingly.
Our society was far less litigious during our hot rod days. We could do far
more things with much less legal and financial risk than today.
That's the way I see it, Henry.
Fred Hudspeth
'78 Royale/Tyler, TX
certified by the USDOT subjects us to litigation risks, both as owners and
sellers. And the deeper the pockets are perceived to be, the greater the risk
of litigation. This is especially true in the aftermath of an accident,
regardless of whether the use of non-DOT certified components contributed to
the accident.
The safe logic is that if it is financially worthwhile for an attorney to
file suit on behalf of a client against someone who has modified a
USDOT-certified vehicle, a suit will be filed. If I were going to sell a
vehicle that has been modified, the least I would do is ask for a waiver of
legal liability from the buyer. And even that is not "bullet proof" armament
against litigation.
This is not to suggest that we should not modify our vehicles. But rather
assess the statistical probability of legal action as a result of our doing
so. If our assessment is that it is negligible, then proceed accordingly.
Our society was far less litigious during our hot rod days. We could do far
more things with much less legal and financial risk than today.
That's the way I see it, Henry.
Fred Hudspeth
'78 Royale/Tyler, TX
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