new vibration on acceleration (after steering pump swap)
- Thread starter ek_lektro
- Start date
It sounds as if the new pump isn't delivering sufficient presure/volume, and the pump pulses are shaking things. Maybe Alex or somebody knows how to
test for this...
--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
test for this...
--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
Was the new pump bled correctly. I recall you have to install it, fill it a bit and spin the pulley without the belt on a few times to work the air
out of the system.
--
77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson carb and dizzy.
Mid Michigan
out of the system.
--
77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson carb and dizzy.
Mid Michigan
Clean the filter at the windshield wiper motor. Probably caused your leaks. May fix the vibration.
Hal Kading 78 Buskirk Stretch Las Cruces NM
Hal Kading 78 Buskirk Stretch Las Cruces NM
Under the universal heading of Been There - Done That....
I suggest that you eyeball the PS sheave and be sure it is not bent.
If you buy the beer, I will tell you the rest of the lengthy story.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
I suggest that you eyeball the PS sheave and be sure it is not bent.
If you buy the beer, I will tell you the rest of the lengthy story.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> If you buy the beer, I will tell you the rest of the lengthy story.
OK cool Matt,
Would Amazon drop ship some beer? Perhaps by drone?
> I suggest that you eyeball the PS sheave and be sure it is not bent.
by “sheave”, you mean pulley, on the pump itself?
Yeah, when they put in the new pump, at first the pulley was slightly crooked.
I thought that this might be the source of the vibration problem,
so i came back and they loosened the belts and straightened
the pulley to 100%, but still the vibration / noise. no change at all.
The vibration can shake the whole front of the cab, and is hard to pinpoint the source (while driving),
but the noise does seem like it coming from the steering box more than the steering pump.
I should mention again, the box was rebuilt last month… just new seals basically.
And THEN, with a tight steering box, the steering pump leak got significantly worse.
So i was advised to try some stop-leak.
I asked if that might harm the new seals in the steering box, and was told No.
Asked a 2nd opinion, different mechanic… was told it shouldn’t be a problem.
Well,. maybe the stop-leak DID ruin some internal seal in the freshly rebuilt box?
I hate to think, but must speculate…
(and f that’s the case, then i’d be accepting beer donations to drown my misery.. and i don’t even drink.)
anyway Matt, I’ve got Prime
(if Amazon has beer)… and you care to tell your story;
Standing by
cheers!
Greg
> Under the universal heading of Been There - Done That....
> I suggest that you eyeball the PS sheave and be sure it is not bent.
>
OK cool Matt,
Would Amazon drop ship some beer? Perhaps by drone?
> I suggest that you eyeball the PS sheave and be sure it is not bent.
by “sheave”, you mean pulley, on the pump itself?
Yeah, when they put in the new pump, at first the pulley was slightly crooked.
I thought that this might be the source of the vibration problem,
so i came back and they loosened the belts and straightened
the pulley to 100%, but still the vibration / noise. no change at all.
The vibration can shake the whole front of the cab, and is hard to pinpoint the source (while driving),
but the noise does seem like it coming from the steering box more than the steering pump.
I should mention again, the box was rebuilt last month… just new seals basically.
And THEN, with a tight steering box, the steering pump leak got significantly worse.
So i was advised to try some stop-leak.
I asked if that might harm the new seals in the steering box, and was told No.
Asked a 2nd opinion, different mechanic… was told it shouldn’t be a problem.
Well,. maybe the stop-leak DID ruin some internal seal in the freshly rebuilt box?
I hate to think, but must speculate…
(and f that’s the case, then i’d be accepting beer donations to drown my misery.. and i don’t even drink.)
anyway Matt, I’ve got Prime
(if Amazon has beer)… and you care to tell your story;
Standing by
cheers!
Greg
> Under the universal heading of Been There - Done That....
> I suggest that you eyeball the PS sheave and be sure it is not bent.
>
Beside bleeding, which is a common problem on those, have you closely looked at every inch of the belt on the V side of it? A small chunk missing or
flaw in the belt surface could also cause your problem.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
flaw in the belt surface could also cause your problem.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Hey, i’m happy to report that i found the cause of the vibration. It was the fan clutch, and my suspicion is that the Autozone Duralast 22045 (replacement for 2747) apparently didn’t come with the right sized spool (not the right length/depth); and while i was busy overseeing the steering pump swap, as well as the bodywork and paint job(!), the other mechanic put the fan clutch in without analyzing the spool difference. During troubleshooting, i couldn’t really “see” the fan clutch spinning out of alignment, but when it ended up failing (and staying on constantly), suddenly it all made sense. So i got a Hayden 2747 from OReilly’s, and now the vibration is gone!
> Beside bleeding, which is a common problem on those, have you closely looked at every inch of the belt on the V side of it?
.. which brings up another issue, perhaps regarding pump bleeding. after installation, we did the ole turn hard right / turn hard left, add fluid, repeat… bleeding… and i could’ve sworn that i checked the hydraulic wipers, and they were working fine (but not 100% sure). but anyway, i’ve driven about 160 miles since the swap was done, and now the wipers are not moving at all. But the steering seems to be fine, fluid level is fine, and no noise from the gearbox. but apparently there’s either not enough pressure, or maybe the filter is blocked? This is the pump we put in: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MPPC/7322155/02869.oap?year=1975&make=Oldsmobile&model=98&vi=1215694&ck=Search_02869_1215694_-1&pt=02869&ppt=C0031
Well, the fun never ends, especially in Tijuana garages,
but where else can you get substantial bodywork and paint done in 3 days,
while they also work on the mechanical stuff…. and all for $750? (with me working alongside them)… https://www.instagram.com/p/BWEeHo5hRxn/?taken-by=solarsonic
Yep, its one of those 20 MPH paint-jobs… and the subject for a whole other post!
cheers all,
Greg
SolarSonic, back in the USA…
> Beside bleeding, which is a common problem on those, have you closely looked at every inch of the belt on the V side of it?
.. which brings up another issue, perhaps regarding pump bleeding. after installation, we did the ole turn hard right / turn hard left, add fluid, repeat… bleeding… and i could’ve sworn that i checked the hydraulic wipers, and they were working fine (but not 100% sure). but anyway, i’ve driven about 160 miles since the swap was done, and now the wipers are not moving at all. But the steering seems to be fine, fluid level is fine, and no noise from the gearbox. but apparently there’s either not enough pressure, or maybe the filter is blocked? This is the pump we put in: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MPPC/7322155/02869.oap?year=1975&make=Oldsmobile&model=98&vi=1215694&ck=Search_02869_1215694_-1&pt=02869&ppt=C0031
Well, the fun never ends, especially in Tijuana garages,
but where else can you get substantial bodywork and paint done in 3 days,
while they also work on the mechanical stuff…. and all for $750? (with me working alongside them)… https://www.instagram.com/p/BWEeHo5hRxn/?taken-by=solarsonic
Yep, its one of those 20 MPH paint-jobs… and the subject for a whole other post!
cheers all,
Greg
SolarSonic, back in the USA…
Greg,
If the filter was blocked so much that the wipers didn't work, then steering would be real hard.
Check that the cable is moving the valve on the wiper motor.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
If the filter was blocked so much that the wipers didn't work, then steering would be real hard.
Check that the cable is moving the valve on the wiper motor.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
