New shades with window-hugging valences

[RF_Burns]

At the GMCMI rally last fall (2019) we purchased a set of day-night shades from Gary Coaster. We wanted valence boxes (I hope that's the proper term) that held the shades against the curvature of the window. I also wanted the valences to be easy to clean and as slim as possible to take up the least amount of space.

I saw some made of PVC by Kerry Pinkerton so I thought I would give that a try. It worked out very well and Paula is pleased!

I made a jig of the wall curvature by holding a piece of wood along the door opening and tracing the curve at the window height. I then cut along the traced curved to make the jig.

I used PVC fence posts which I ripped on the table saw to make 4 right-angle pieces. I put the jig in my Work-Mate along with the PVC piece to curve. While heating the PVC I would clamp the jig tighter with the Work-mate. I found that heating the PVC to 80C was the sweet spot where it just began to soften. I then let the piece cool while still in the jig so it would set with the curve in place.

I then made a top and bottom using finger-jointed clear pine and used oak wall baseboard turned upside-down to finish the top of the valence. The wood was then stained to match. Where the top was hid behind a cabinet, I did not need the top of the valence of course.

We also got the front windshield blinds. These came with "I-Beam" type curtain carriers. Since there was already a "C-type" track in place, I purchased the sew-in T-tabs and used those instead. I'm not sure why there is not an option to have the T-tabs instead of the I-beam as the C-track was OEM from my understanding. Anyway the T-tab work great without the hassle of changing the tracks.

I've posted some photos here:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g7336-new-blinds.html

 

[tmsnyder]

Those are great Bruce!

How did you attach the pvc angle to the wall?

 

[RF_Burns]

Had the same question on my post on GMCNet. This is what I wrote there:

On the two large windows at the front we do not have cupboards above them. So I used a 1.5" x 0.5" clear pine wood at the top and bottom. I drilled through the pine and used #8 sheet metal screws to fasten them to the top and bottom of the window. The PVC sides are fastened to the pine with screws. I then used a piece of oak floor baseboard turned upside-down at the top to give it a finished look. We then stained it to match the rest of the wood.

For the rear window I did the same as the sides, but I used a wider pine board which I traced and cut to match the window trim contours. I then did the same as the front sides.

Where there are cupboards above, I cut the length of the PVC sides to slide up to the point where the wall and cupboard was the width of the PVC sides. I then used some "L" brackets made from scrap PVC and glued them to the PVC sides PVC pipe solvent/adhesive. I then fastened the PVC with a screw through the back of the cupboard into the PVC L brackets. The bottom of the PVC sides rest on the kitchen countertop or the blanket cabinet under the rear passenger window and the wood trim at the bottom of the rear driver's side window. I cut small "L" brackets and glued the L brackets in place at the inside bottom of the PVC sides and fastened through the L bracket with a screw.

Hope that helps.. clear as mud.

 

[pvfjr]

How did I miss this the first time? This is why we have the forum--so we can dig the good stuff back up!

Those look really great, Bruce. I might have to copy this when I get done playing whack-a-mole with the mechanicals.

 

[RF_Burns]

Thanks Paul.

They are working really well. The boxed in shades helps with the privacy and provides some insulation value against the windows.

 

[pvfjr]

Thanks Paul.

They are working really well. The boxed in shades helps with the privacy and provides some insulation value against the windows.

You listed the exact design requirements I've been mulling over. Our PO built some real eyesores, with about 5" in depth! They're curved at the wall, but flat in front, and poorly crafted with vinyl haphazardly glued on them. We've ripped most of them off since they were floppy anyway. So now the blinds dangle far from the wall with all the associated drawbacks.

I like your clever source for PVC angle stock as well. I'm always happy when I don't have to source weird stuff from a specialty supplier that's far from me.

 

[RF_Burns]

The colour I got was called "Putty". It was a good neutral colour that goes well with everything in our coach.

 

[74_Coach]

Nice! I have been waiting for my blinds from Gary since February, 2022. Apparently, my day color “Alabaster” has been on back order since April, 2022.

My MH came with blind frames made from wood that address the contour of the body. Since I was replacing all of the blinds, I removed all of the aluminum trim and cabinet covers around the windows and had them powder coated, replaced all of the rusty screws with stainless screws, powder coated all screens and replaced the screening. Then I re-upholstered all blind frames with neutral vinyl and threw that nasty 80’s “mauve” vinyl into the trash.

 

[74_Coach]

And now the final results of painstakingly rebuilding the interior from the window frames up. Very happy with the day/night blinds even after waiting 6 months for them.


The rear cap removal and rebuilding was a major PIA but I got-er-done. The rear blind frame was also poorly supported with dry wall screws going into the 46 y/o plastic so I engineered a better anchoring system. Solid now.

 

[bdub]

Looks terrific!