MicroLevel New Lower price!
- Thread starter Keith V
- Start date
Apparently, I'm going to have to de-pin one cable plug for the height sensors in order to pass the wire next to the air lines at the bogie. There is a gap, but it's too narrow top to bottom to accept the connector. Is there a part number for the Delphi connector, or do you have di-pinning instructions?
It's that or cut the cables to pass them through. I'd go under the frame, but the cable is too short for that, so I'd be cutting and extending anyway.
It's that or cut the cables to pass them through. I'd go under the frame, but the cable is too short for that, so I'd be cutting and extending anyway.
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Call keith.
There is a tool you can buy off amazon that will allow you to pop out the pins and re-install.
Most coach’s the connector will fit between the frame and body…. But I ran into your problem on one coach I helped someone with.
Luther, why didn't you call me.
Yes some coaches need to either be massaged to fit, (body pads?) or depinning is possible.
Click this -> MicroLevel or the link in my sig.
Third video down is what you need
Yes some coaches need to either be massaged to fit, (body pads?) or depinning is possible.
Click this -> MicroLevel or the link in my sig.
Third video down is what you need
Closing the loop on this...
Microlevel successfully installed and calibrated. Travel height is within 1/8" of perfect every time!
If you are using the OEM compressor or a Firestone replacement, you will want to upgrade to a higher-capacity Viair or similar. If you retain your older compressor, keep the engine running or use the "boost" battery (if you still have it) while calibrating, as the system will fill slowly and your battery could drop voltage enough to limit the compressor. That results in not being able to provide enough pressure to the bags when lifting the coach for "camping" calibration.
That's what happened to me; killed an hour or so trying to troubleshoot a system with no issues other than not enough pressure due to the compressor not having enough voltage.
If you have a shop compressor you can tap it into the air tank or feed line to take the load from the onboard compressor. That coach adjusted QUICKLY when the shop compressor was connected.
Viair 485C in my near future.
I DO like the new system, and the person who helped install it may now want one as well.
Microlevel successfully installed and calibrated. Travel height is within 1/8" of perfect every time!
If you are using the OEM compressor or a Firestone replacement, you will want to upgrade to a higher-capacity Viair or similar. If you retain your older compressor, keep the engine running or use the "boost" battery (if you still have it) while calibrating, as the system will fill slowly and your battery could drop voltage enough to limit the compressor. That results in not being able to provide enough pressure to the bags when lifting the coach for "camping" calibration.
That's what happened to me; killed an hour or so trying to troubleshoot a system with no issues other than not enough pressure due to the compressor not having enough voltage.
If you have a shop compressor you can tap it into the air tank or feed line to take the load from the onboard compressor. That coach adjusted QUICKLY when the shop compressor was connected.
Viair 485C in my near future.
I DO like the new system, and the person who helped install it may now want one as well.
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Unfortunately, that is indeed AI BS.
Doubling the length will indeed double the amount of frictional loss--but that does not mean it cuts the flow rate in half. Length of pipe is only one of the many factors that determines the flow rate, and ignores pressure differentials, Reynold's number, surface roughness, corners/transitions, whether it's laminar/turbulent, etc. The responses aren't instantaneous either.
Think of the air line as a wire with distributed resistance and capacitance (fluid momentum is like inductance too). The volume and pressure inside it form a distributed capacitance, so the pressure response to a step function of sudden air consumption will show a exponential pressure drop. That's why short bursts of my impact gun with the 1/4" coil hose work better than a long, sustained trigger pull--it stays on the higher side of the exponential response. But if I'm sick of improvising with short bursts, the convenient coil hose comes off and it's straight 3/8" hose from there. It does indeed make a big difference with the impact gun. But that's only because of the high demand of the air gun, and the high pressure differential between the tank and the atmosphere.
The pressure differential between compressor and airbag will be determined by the flow rate and the "resistance" in the line. This is just like an electrical load. Undersized line with high loads will net a drop in pressure from one end to the other. Just like looking for a voltage drop while under load to determine if a wire is too small.
If your compressor/tank combo can pump up to 150 psi and the bags are still lagging behind at 75 psi, then the lines are too small. If the bags are slowly making their way past 80 psi and the compressor tank is in the same ballpark, the lines aren't slowing anything down. This is for filling.
For draining the bags, the exit pressure is merely atmospheric so we have the maximum pressure differential available. This means the air lines most definitely play a significant part in the flow rate--but so does every valve along the way. I can't say I've ever felt like I've had to wait too long for the bags to lower manually, and I'd be OK with them being even slower if necessary.
If I had only one suggestion to make on this system, it would be a wish for a "town" setting on the panel. Raise the rear just an inch or so for driving around town (while still controlling the final height via sensor input) to prevent the exhaust pipe from dragging on steep entry/exits to parking lots, etc. I can accomplish this with the remote (hit A&B together for a few seconds), but no ability to auto-regulate once set; a preset height would be handy. Three calibration steps instead of two. Revision 3?
I hear it's not such an issue in a 23' as it is in a 26'...
This is why I asked about exhaust pipe exit location in another thread; mine is straight out the back. Maybe curving it out the side (like the diagrams show) would solve my issues?
I hear it's not such an issue in a 23' as it is in a 26'...
This is why I asked about exhaust pipe exit location in another thread; mine is straight out the back. Maybe curving it out the side (like the diagrams show) would solve my issues?
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I did think about this, and I will take it under advisement, but really it's a simple matter to hit the up button on the front panel for a couple seconds. My driveway is steep enough to warrant this, you get used to it pretty quickIf I had only one suggestion to make on this system, it would be a wish for a "town" setting on the panel. Raise the rear just an inch or so for driving around town (while still controlling the final height via sensor input) to prevent the exhaust pipe from dragging on steep entry/exits to parking lots, etc. I can accomplish this with the remote (hit A&B together for a few seconds, but without the ability to auto-regulate once set), but a preset height would be handy. Three calibration steps instead of two. Revision 3?
I hear it's not such an issue in a 23' as it is in a 26'...
This is why I asked about exhaust pipe exit location in another thread; mine is straight out the back. Maybe curving it out the side (like the diagrams show) would solve my issues?
Keith,
Quick question on MicroLevel operation. When using the Manual Up/Down buttons, does the MicroLevel reference the ride height sensors? or does it just add air to both sides while the Up button for instance is pushed, equalizing the pressure in both airbags.
For instance, say you need 20 PSI more on the passenger side for equal ride height due to extra weight on that side. If pushing the Up button just opens the solenoids to add air, then the airbags would equalize pressure and the ride height would be lower (no longer level side to side) on the passenger side due to the extra weight. But if the Microlevel added sensor counts to each side, then the equal (level side to side) ride height would be maintained (I believe).
Asking for a friend
Pressing the up / down button or using the remote just adds or removes air from the bags. It no longer references the ride height sensors. This is mostly so the system still works if there is a broken sensor, If manual mode depended on the height sensors and one was broken it would do some very wrong things.
Also it doesn't equalize pressure in the bags, each side is controlled independently. If youre heavy on 1 side that bag will run at a higher pressure. Pressing up will always add air
There was thought of having a way to increment/decrement the ride height, but I was not convinced the added user complexity was worth it.
BUT, I could have the manual button and remote temporarily modify the height setpoint rather than just dropping out of travel mode.
Again, I am open to discussion on this
Camp also ignores the ride height sensors
Also it doesn't equalize pressure in the bags, each side is controlled independently. If youre heavy on 1 side that bag will run at a higher pressure. Pressing up will always add air
There was thought of having a way to increment/decrement the ride height, but I was not convinced the added user complexity was worth it.
BUT, I could have the manual button and remote temporarily modify the height setpoint rather than just dropping out of travel mode.
Again, I am open to discussion on this
Camp also ignores the ride height sensors
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A temporarily modified ride height set point...interesting. That would be programmable as well?
It makes sense to me. The button press duration is dependent on the airbag system (airbag pressure & volume), compressor strength, existence and size of an air tank and the preferred "bump it up" height.
Currently the bump it up height and button press duration would be a guess. More importantly it wouldn't require more than a couple quick presses (one second?) instead of having a hand off the wheel for a substantially longer time (ten seconds?).
It's primarily a safety concern in my mind but convenience is a close second.
I'm seeing an interesting idea.
While in travel mode, any up or down press would temporarily modify the ride height.
Temporarily until travel is pressed again, or manual or Camp?
How would I indicate youre in temporary travel height?
Flashing the travel LED already is used to indicate other things, like errors
While in travel mode, any up or down press would temporarily modify the ride height.
Temporarily until travel is pressed again, or manual or Camp?
How would I indicate youre in temporary travel height?
Flashing the travel LED already is used to indicate other things, like errors
It would require a new circuit, but a bi-color LED in the "travel" location? Maybe red for modified travel? Would this be activated at the panel or by remote? I ask because I can barely reach the panel while driving. I usually catch only a corner, activating only one valve instead of both.
Hmmmm. thats a bigger change than you think.
I am looking at changes for the next version, but that would be a few years off
