Jacking up the coach

Ken Burton said:Quote:
>
> Steel Rims - How tight do the bolts have to be? My torque wrench quits at 150 ...so go a bit more -then guess? 8o

Don't use the torque wrench to tighten them after it clicks, you'll probably ruin the wrench. Use a big ass breaker bar or a bigger torque wrench.
--
Burl Vibert
Kingston, Ontario
1976 GMC, gotta check the VIN
 
Quick question, I'm storing for winter, do I put jackstands under the bogie section to keep it from dropping to the ground?
--
Burl Vibert
Kingston, Ontario
1976 GMC, gotta check the VIN
 
> Quick question, I'm storing for winter, do I put jackstands under the bogie section to keep it from dropping to the ground?

Burl,

It doesn't really matter if they are the OE, some of the newer don't like to lift if they get to go completely flat. If it is likely to leak down
(most are) just stack some cut 2xXor 4xX under the bogie casting. That way the coach can't settle too far.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Now me....I do not have inside storage. Mine gets stored on the grass next to the driveway. So, I inflate the bags up as high as it will go. Then
close the valves to the bags to eliminate system leaks and park it on 2 X 8's to keep it from sinking into the soil. Up that high, in my mind, allows
plenty of dry winter air to circulate and helps keep moisture from collecting underneath. Seems to work for me. Wish I had inside storage, but since I
don't, this is the best I can do. JWID
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
I don't know (and it's impossible for me to find out till I get there in April) but there's a pretty good chance there was no blocking installed when
she was stored in August, so there's a real possibility that the bags might be totally flat. Hopefully that isn't the case.

The coach was driven 2500 miles to the storage area by someone who could drive it but with no experience with GMC systems.

Driver didn't camp in it, stayed in motels on the way. It just got parked up in the storage yard, tarped over and there she sits.

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach - 39,000 original miles so far
 
> Ok lads, I've read and re-read this thread and the changing of a wheel and getting new tires on is a BIT clearer but there are still a few points
> I'm not totally sure of, too bad there isn't a video or some photos to go along with the descriptions ...Part of the problem is that I've never seen
> the bogie system or an airbag in the flesh and even had to google "cribbing" to find out what it was. :lol:

"Cribbing is a temporary wooden structure used to support heavy objects during construction, relocation, vehicle extrication and urban search and
rescue."

Do not feel bad. People use words and acronyms here all the time that I have to look up like "yo'll" and "gajaw". The worse for me is I have a
friend with an IQ of 164 and I have to look up words all the time after discussions.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
It looks like I will be doing the tire and wheel removal myself in the storage yard. I'll be taking the tires off and taking them to the tire
installer to have the new tires fitted and balanced. The tires are actually at least 10yrs old and I've heard they are going flat in storage.

I intend to get the spring steel bars made up to jack up the bogies.

Initially I was thinking of doing one rear side at a time, but would it be possible to remove all four rear tires working on one side at a time,
blocking the bogie then moving to the other side? I'll have a jack and some cribbing with me when I show up at the yard but the tire place is about 20
miles away and I don't mind making 2 trips. Unless I can get all 4 rears off and loaded down to the installer in one shot I'll have to make 3 trips.

For the front, I'll get the spare mounted along with the four rears so that after replacing the rears and setting her back down I can mount the spare
on one side and then take the remaining two old fronts along to get them done.

How does that sound?

any advice appreciated guys

thanks

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles
 
If you have enough cribbing and the right jacks, you can "fly" it and take all six wheels at once. My order of operations is as follows, do as you
wish:
3 ton jack under rear frame near bogies with a 4x4 between jack head and frame, long ways, along the frame to distribute the pressure point. Start
jack, when it is holding some weight, release air bag. Continue to jack until tires are clear and place wood block or jack stand under the bogies.
Lower jack so weight is on bogies. Repeat on the other side.

Go to front. Put jack under center cross member and raise the front until wheels are clear. Place jack stands on the outer edges of the cross member
and release jack enough that all three are holding weight.

Return to rear and put safety cribbing under the frame where doubled up "C" and cross members intersect.

When I left it this way for extended time, I added another safety cribbing under the front frame.
--
1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath
Raleigh, NC
 
You can remove all four rear tires at the same time. With enough cribbing! Do not jack one side all the way up and then do the other side. Instead,
raise one side part way, move to the other side, match the height, then back to the original side and finish the job.
Break the lug nuts loose before even starting, them babies are tight. Breaker bar is your friend. Plus, get an impact rated socket for the lug nuts. I
broke a typical socket while playing tire mechanic.
--
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
 
Thanks for the help guys - I can see I'm going to have pack a whole load of lumber up there when I drive up there to get it!

I have a 3-1/2 ton floor jack and a bottle jack. In other posts and from what I've seen on youtube, people have placed cribbing under the bogie
castings to support the coach. I've also heard tips about jacking the wheels up on the bogie castings. What isn't all that clear is where to place the
jack (jacking point?) if you intend to lower it down so the bogie casting rests on the cribbing?
I've seen the hook bottle jack attachment and using that in the rear, is there enough room get the cribbing in place under the bogie casting? If the
hook is used on the front, where does it locate?

TIA

Larry

--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles
 
I use the hook and bottle jack for the rear. 4x6 under the bogie.

Front i jack the middle of the crossmember with the floor jack.

> Thanks for the help guys - I can see I'm going to have pack a whole load of lumber up there when I drive up there to get it!
>
> I have a 3-1/2 ton floor jack and a bottle jack. In other posts and from what I've seen on youtube, people have placed cribbing under the bogie
> castings to support the coach. I've also heard tips about jacking the wheels up on the bogie castings. What isn't all that clear is where to place
> the jack (jacking point?) if you intend to lower it down so the bogie casting rests on the cribbing?
> I've seen the hook bottle jack attachment and using that in the rear, is there enough room get the cribbing in place under the bogie casting? If
> the hook is used on the front, where does it locate?
>
> TIA
>
> Larry

--
1977 Kingsley 455 as stock as it gets except lots of Ragusa parts
 
I just measured the block of wood I used under one of the sides, it's 7-1/4" square. Might be of help when picking out pieces for cribbing.

BTW, about these J-hook jack adapters, is there a dimensional drawing or similar online so I can make one, I have the ability and tools.
Or, is it proprietary, as in, someone designed this and I should buy it from them?
--
Burl Vibert
Kingston, Ontario
1976 GMC, gotta check the VIN
 
Quote:
> BTW, about these J-hook jack adapters, is there a dimensional drawing or similar online so I can make one, I have the ability and tools.
> Or, is it proprietary, as in, someone designed this and I should buy it from them?

There's a bunch of stuff on the hooks here:

http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/rear.html

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles
 
Larry, Mike and Burl,

I originally posted this mid-year and there was a simplified version I posted in this thread in December. I suggest you read both and if you have
questions, I will be back tomorrow. Realize that this is an owner that had both fuel tanks down five times, his black tank down twice and pulled the
front frame twice. Before you ask why I didn't do it right the first time, the only of those I could have avoided was one of the fuel tank drops if I
had known then what I learned later. I have a lot of "under the coach" hours. In later times I learned how to lift the rear with my car lift, but
not many have that option.

Posted:
I need to lift the rear of my GMC and I only have one jack. Can this be done safely? (For both me and the coach?)
The simple answer is yes, but the complete answer is far from simple.

Ready?
You need a collection of 4X6 timber blocks and one that is a full 6' long. Have the yard (unless you have a really big saw) cut some 4x6 in 12 and 18
inch long pieces. You will want at least two of each, but more is better. And, a 3-ton floor jack.

The nature of the beast is such that you do not want to lift the coach weight directly on the frame ever except at the approved hard points. (I have
seen lots of coaches with the resulting damage.)

Take that long timber all the way aft. You can get a head start by putting it on two of the cut pieces. If you lift it there, you are not lifting
the whole (or even the rear half) of the coach weight. There is a considerable hard point where the rear cross frame bolts to the stringers.

The proof in the math. A typical 26' coach is in the 12K# region. Of that, there is 4000+ in the front and about 8K for the rear. When you do the
math, you will discover that even at 9400 on the rear, lifting the rear frame is still less than 6000. So, there should be some room there.

Before I got the Merrill hitch installed, I lifted my coach (admittedly only a light 23) there several times. When I did this with a 3 ton floor jack,
I would put a 4x6 across the rear most frame and lift in the center. Then place cribbing (blocks) under the bogey castings. When she was set on the
cribbing - usually two hunks of 4*6 - I would let the floor jack off and give the coach a solid body check. An acquaintance was watching this
procedure and asked if I were afraid I might knock the coach off the blocks. To this I replied,"I'm sure not worried now."

This lift never caused Chaumière any additional frame damage. (She came with some.) The notable point here is that you are not lifting as much weight
as you would have to when lifting any farther forward. You are distributing the weight you are lifting across that rear frame (and the bumper as well
if you have a Merril hitch).

A warning about wood, it does not have a yield strength. When/If you hear a crack, that is it. You are done. My long 4x6 is still here. It was used
for other things before the coach and has been used for many other things since.

Another caution here. When you are lifting the rear only do it when the front is on its own suspension. I have been told that having the front on
solid stands can cause the body to flex enough to crack a windshield. If you need to lift the front too, do that later.

I am sure you can do this, but it still requires that you use due care.

Matt Colie
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Quote:
> one 4 x 6 that is a full 6' long

Well Matt up here in BC where all the logs come from :) we don't commonly use 4 x 6's - would a 4 x 4 be ok to use for the 6' piece under the jack?

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles
 
I use 4x4s, it just takes more of them. (Some while back an employer gave me a pickup load of treated 8' 4x4s.) NEVER simply place one directly atop
the other, ALWAYS criss cross. On atop the other cost me an aluminum radiator when the coach came down.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
 
> Quote:
> > one 4 x 6 that is a full 6' long
>
> Well Matt up here in BC where all the logs come from :) we don't commonly use 4 x 6's - would a 4 x 4 be ok to use for the 6' piece under the
> jack?
>
> Larry

Larry,

Used 4*6 because that is what I have and it did work well to lift the rear of my coach.

If 4*4 is what you have, give it a try but stay clear. Wood had zero yield strength, when you hear it crack, it is done. if it doesn't crack, it
could also flex enough to bend the rear most cross member. If that is a worry, just put a block at each end so the long part has more room to bend.

Your coach is heavier than mine, most are. In the case that a 4*4 does not make the lift. Come back here and I will tell you about what I was going
to try before I found that I could get by with a single piece of wood there.

You will have to lift and then let the air off the rear so you don't blow out the shocks.

And yes, don't stack two 4*4 chunks. That won't be stable.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
I personally NEVER use wood to block or "crib up" ANYTHING that I plan on
crawling about under. On coaches, my procedure kinda goes like this: Front
end first. 6 ton floor jack under the center of the front crossmember
directly under the engine front mounting holes. Raise high enough to place
large steel 6 ton jack stands on the side frame rails where the front clip
joins the side rails. Jack stands that I use are tall enough that the
extension is clear down. (Not harbor freight ones) I have a local tool only
store that I shop at. Not cheap, but daily use professional quality stuff.
Then on to the rear. Same heavy duty 6 ton floor jack. Under the bogie
box. Unload the suspension with the floor jackets, then let about 1/2 the
air out of the bags. Finish raising the coach high enough until the side
frame is nearly level. Then, I use 4ea 3 ton jack stands, located ahead and
behind the tires. Location determined by crossmembers. Lower the jack under
the bogie box.
So, there are 6 jack stands total. 4 in the rear, two in the front.
This is in an enclosed, heated, well lighted shop with a concrete floor.
I didn't get to be 80 years old by being stupid about jacking heavy
stuff off the ground. Safety first.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Tue, Jan 19, 2021, 8:24 AM Matt Colie via Gmclist <

> > Quote:
> > > one 4 x 6 that is a full 6' long
> >
> > Well Matt up here in BC where all the logs come from :) we don't
> commonly use 4 x 6's - would a 4 x 4 be ok to use for the 6' piece under the
> > jack?
> >
> > Larry
>
> Larry,
>
> Used 4*6 because that is what I have and it did work well to lift the rear
> of my coach.
>
> If 4*4 is what you have, give it a try but stay clear. Wood had zero
> yield strength, when you hear it crack, it is done. if it doesn't crack, it
> could also flex enough to bend the rear most cross member. If that is a
> worry, just put a block at each end so the long part has more room to bend.
>
>
> Your coach is heavier than mine, most are. In the case that a 4*4 does
> not make the lift. Come back here and I will tell you about what I was
> going
> to try before I found that I could get by with a single piece of wood
> there.
>
> You will have to lift and then let the air off the rear so you don't blow
> out the shocks.
>
> And yes, don't stack two 4*4 chunks. That won't be stable.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL,
> GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum
> Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Quote:
> So, there are 6 jack stands total. 4 in the rear, two in the front.
> This is in an enclosed, heated, well lighted shop with a concrete floor.
> I didn't get to be 80 years old by being stupid about jacking heavy
> stuff off the ground. Safety first.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon

Sounds great James but I will not have the luxury of having the concrete floor and workshop. She's sitting outdoors, 300 miles away in a storage yard
on grass with temps in my pick up window (late March) just above freezing. No power and the only tools and cribbing available will be what I drive out
there with. Despite the less than optimal conditions, I have to change the 10+ year old tires one way or another.

I don't think I'll attempt to raise up the entire coach but I would like to do the rears in one go if possible.
Some of my apprehension and need for advice is due to TOTAL unfamiliarity with the GMC regarding everyday stuff like the frame, bogeys, front A-arms,
stringers etc. I have not yet seen the underbody of any GMC coach, not just mine!

All I have to go on to prep for the work is the advice from the forum and what images I can find on the net.

The coach is located in a small community called "Scotch Creek" and I don't want to be up there "without a paddle"

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles
 
Bogie box is the descriptive term most often used for the part of the rear
suspension that is bolted solid to the frame of the coach. It is the GMC
approved jacking point on the rear of the coach. That is where you would
place a large hydraulic floor jack to lift the coach. It is also where the
jack hooks and smaller hydraulic bottle jacks can be used.
The bogie arms are the movable arms that anchor into the bogie box via
bushings and pivot pins. They have spindles on the outboard ends that the
hubs, wheels, tires, and shocks attach to. Usually NOT a good idea to use a
jack under them, or jack stands either.
So to summarize, there are 3 point jacking supports. Center of the
front crossmember, and the 2 bogie boxes.
Hope this helps you, rather than confuses you.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Tue, Jan 19, 2021, 11:22 AM twlldeen--- via Gmclist <

> Quote:
> > So, there are 6 jack stands total. 4 in the rear, two in the front.
> > This is in an enclosed, heated, well lighted shop with a concrete floor.
> > I didn't get to be 80 years old by being stupid about jacking heavy
> > stuff off the ground. Safety first.
> > Jim Hupy
> > Salem, Oregon
>
> Sounds great James but I will not have the luxury of having the concrete
> floor and workshop. She's sitting outdoors, 300 miles away in a storage yard
> on grass with temps in my pick up window (late March) just above freezing.
> No power and the only tools and cribbing available will be what I drive out
> there with. Despite the less than optimal conditions, I have to change the
> 10+ year old tires one way or another.
>
> I don't think I'll attempt to raise up the entire coach but I would like
> to do the rears in one go if possible.
> Some of my apprehension and need for advice is due to TOTAL unfamiliarity
> with the GMC regarding everyday stuff like the frame, bogeys, front A-arms,
> stringers etc. I have not yet seen the underbody of any GMC coach, not
> just mine!
>
> All I have to go on to prep for the work is the advice from the forum and
> what images I can find on the net.
>
> The coach is located in a small community called "Scotch Creek" and I
> don't want to be up there "without a paddle"
>
> Larry
> --
> Larry - Victoria BC -
>
> 1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
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