Jacking up the coach

Larry,
Would a shorter piece for just one side work as well?
--
Douglas & Virginia Smith
dsmithy18 at gmail
Lincoln Nebraska
’73 “Canyonlands” since ‘95: "Wanabizo";
Quadrabag/6 wheel disks/3:70 final/Paterson QuadraJet/Thorley’s/Alloy wheels(finally!)/Sundry other
 
> Larry,
> Would a shorter piece for just one side work as well?

Hey Doug,
I can't imagine that it would. If you are lifting the coach by the bogie, you are in effect lifting both wheels at once, so you need to keep both
wheels from dropping. As soon as you raise the bottle jack to make contact with the bogie, you need to slide the iron bar in place, then let the air
out of the bag. Then raise the coach with the jack until the wheels are off of the ground. The iron bar will keep the bogie arms from dropping past
the full extension of the shock absorbers...both front and rear arms. JWIT

--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
> > Larry,
> > Would a shorter piece for just one side work as well?
>
> Hey Doug,
> I can't imagine that it would. If you are lifting the coach by the bogie, you are in effect lifting both wheels at once, so you need to keep both
> wheels from dropping. As soon as you raise the bottle jack to make contact with the bogie, you need to slide the iron bar in place, then let the
> air out of the bag. Then raise the coach with the jack until the wheels are off of the ground. The iron bar will keep the bogie arms from dropping
> past the full extension of the shock absorbers...both front and rear arms. JWIT

Oh, and BTW, you need to install the iron bar while the coach is at normal or lower height. Raise it above normal height and it is hard to get the bar
in because the arms have dropped....something the bar is intended to prevent.
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
Great tip there Larry - I've already got the fluorescent paint, just need to know the length of the piece so I can make some up before I go get the
coach :) ...oh and could I use flat bar (mild steel) or does it have to be spring material?

TIA

Larry

Quote:
> Karma:
>

>

>
> Larry,
> Would a shorter piece for just one side work as well?
>
> Hey Doug,
> I can't imagine that it would. If you are lifting the coach by the bogie, you are in effect lifting both wheels at once, so you need to keep
> both wheels from dropping. As soon as you raise the bottle jack to make contact with the bogie, you need to slide the iron bar in place, then let
> the air out of the bag. Then raise the coach with the jack until the wheels are off of the ground. The iron bar will keep the bogie arms from
> dropping past the full extension of the shock absorbers...both front and rear arms. JWIT
>
> Oh, and BTW, you need to install the iron bar while the coach is at normal or lower height. Raise it above normal height and it is hard to get the
> bar in because the arms have dropped....something the bar is intended to prevent.

--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach - 39,000 original miles so far
 
Ah. I thought it might be due to overextending, makes sense, thanks for the explanation Jim

Larry

> They do not all break. The Bilsteins are the most prone to breakage. The
> KYB's are physically stronger, and they rarely break but they do
> hyperextend and the results are a failure of the seals, a subsequent loss
> of the gasses they are filled with, and sometimes fluid as well. What
> lowering the air pressure does is to prevent or lessen the effects of
> hyperextension. The addition of a short piece of leaf spring between the
> bogie box and bogie arm before you jack the coach is all that is needed,
> usually.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
>
> On Sat, Dec 19, 2020, 6:19 PM twlldeen--- via Gmclist <

>
> > So why do the shocks break if you don't let out the air one way or another?
> >
> > Larry
> > --
> > Larry - Victoria BC -
> >
> > 1977 Palm Beach - 39,000 original miles so far
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach - 39,000 original miles so far
 
Ok let's just say I sourced 7 new 16.5's and take them with me when I go to pick up the GMC.

I drive to the nearest fairly big town and pull into a reputable tire shop to get them mounted on my coach. In your experience, would a tire fitter at
a typical tire shop be able to jack up the coach to change the tires without destroying the shocks or popping the windshield?

Larry

--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach - 39,000 original miles so far
 
[/quote

> > That is what I do. 9/16" open end
>
> There is are two simple reasons that I don't do that.
>
> I don't have to get out a wrench.
> And....
> My ride height control works.
> So, the system is usually set to travel unless I have a reason to change that. That be the case, if I disconnect at the airspring, I will loose
> the pressure in the entire system. I am still running the second generation Dana pump and it takes a while (~2.5min) to get the system back up when
> it is down.
>
> Matt

My ride height works great and I have never had the opposite side go down by disconnecting one hose. They are controlled by different solenoids and
ride height is not even eon when the key is off.

I have no idea how a power level works but on Electrolevel I and II what I am saying works great. It is also possible to raise and change the tire
without the metal pieces installed. With the hose disconnected, the bogie arms go up and down easily. I have a pair of those pieces somewhere but I
have not needed or used them in years.

--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Larry,

> Take a look at these 3 pictures.

thanks for the pics. I always wondered what exactly people were talking
about. Now it makes much more sense
--
Best regards

Olly Schmidt
PGP KeyID: 0x4196BF22
'76a 26' Eleganza II - Virginia, US
'73 23' Sequoia - Schleswig-Holstein, Germany
 
When I made mine 15 or so years ago I stopped by a local body shop and asked "the next time you replace a leaf spring on something please save the
removed on for me? A month or so later he called and said come pick up your bent spring. I picked it up, sawed up two lengths, oiled them up and
stored them in a double ziplock bag. A couple of years ago while paint some fire extinguishers I pulled them out and painted them red. I do not
remember the lengths. I have only used them once or twice, but I have them in the coach if ever needed.

I loosen the lug nuts, put a jack under the bogie support or air up the air bag, go up a bit and put some cribbing under the center support. (usually
the on a stack of 4x4s and 2x4's) drop the jack or air, remove the air bag hose. Now the only weight left on the tire is the tire that is still
resting on the ground and a little from the bogie arm. It is easy now to remove the tire. It bothers you, you can put the jack under the bogie arm
and lift it slightly or install the steel pieces that you made.

To install the replacement tire without the jack under the bogie arm, just engage one of the lug studs to the wheel and rotate the tire which lifts
the arm until all of the eight studs are lined up. Without the tire installed and the air hose removed you can actually raise the arm by hand, but
you have no way to hold it there. A small jack makes it easier. Push the tire on, and install all 8 lug nuts reasonably tight. Remove the steel
pieces if used. Install the bad air hose hose and turn on the the coach air to raise that side only. The coach will raise, them remove and cribbing.
Torque the wheel(s) and set the air controls to travel. I seldom use a jack unless that air does not work but always use some cribbing.

So go get an old remove leaf spring from a spring or body shop for free and start cutting. I used a steel band saw but a cut off wheel or torch would
also work. On the spring I got I cut several sets out of it and gave them away to other GMCers.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
I'll chime in here uninvited: If you can get it use a piece of leaf spring
for your suspension arm lift bar. One of my bars, 3/8"x3"x~13" has a
definite curve to it from a friend forgetting, years ago, to relieve
the bag pressure before lifting the wheels from the ground. You DO need to
do that.

Somewhere around here is a bogie (not from that incident) with the bottom
cracked from using an aluminum block to support only one arm (with 4-bag
system). I don't remember the exact numbers, but the force exerted by
the air bag to support 1800# or so at the wheel is multiplied by the ratio
between the air bag arm and the distance from the pivot pin to the contact
on the bogie bottom. That's probably something like 18:3=6, so an inflated
air bag can potentially put a load of several unexpected tons on the thin
bottom of the bogie.

Ken H.

On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 12:44 AM twlldeen--- via Gmclist <

> Great tip there Larry - I've already got the fluorescent paint, just need
> to know the length of the piece so I can make some up before I go get the
> coach :) ...oh and could I use flat bar (mild steel) or does it have to
> be spring material?
>
> TIA
>
> Larry
>
> Quote:
> > Karma:
> >

> >

> >
> > Larry,
> > Would a shorter piece for just one side work as well?
> >
> > Hey Doug,
> > I can't imagine that it would. If you are lifting the coach by the
> bogie, you are in effect lifting both wheels at once, so you need to keep
> > both wheels from dropping. As soon as you raise the bottle jack to make
> contact with the bogie, you need to slide the iron bar in place, then let
> > the air out of the bag. Then raise the coach with the jack until the
> wheels are off of the ground. The iron bar will keep the bogie arms from
> > dropping past the full extension of the shock absorbers...both front and
> rear arms. JWIT
> >
> > Oh, and BTW, you need to install the iron bar while the coach is at
> normal or lower height. Raise it above normal height and it is hard to get
> the
> > bar in because the arms have dropped....something the bar is intended to
> prevent.
>
> --
> Larry - Victoria BC -
>
> 1977 Palm Beach - 39,000 original miles so far
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
> Ok let's just say I sourced 7 new 16.5's and take them with me when I go to pick up the GMC.
>
> I drive to the nearest fairly big town and pull into a reputable tire shop to get them mounted on my coach. In your experience, would a tire
> fitter at a typical tire shop be able to jack up the coach to change the tires without destroying the shocks or popping the windshield?
>
> Larry

Larry,

Unless there is a picture of a GMC on the shop wall, it will require personal supervision.
Tire shops are always in too much of a hurry.

They should be able to, but they will have to do it out in the yard if they are not a truck shop.
Also, the typical "tire gun" is only good for about 100~120, and that is almost half what will be needed to get the lug nuts loose.
Be ready to lend them your pipe and breaker bar.
Were I in your position, I would stand close by to make sure that they do not try to jack under the frame.
They may also want to jack under the radiator frame. That is about a 1000$us mistake.
If you have them do close pairs, and you drive the air system, you can avoid a lot of the problems associated.

It would also be a good thing if you stopped after the first hour and rechecked all 48 lug nuts.....

Matt (Do I have to add BTDT?)
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
This fall I bought two new tires on my 6 yr rotation schedule. I also put best of the two replaced tires on the spare, had all seven balanced and
rotated everything in keeping with my 6yr plan. Before I made the appointment to do this work, I talked to the manager and asked that I be allowed to
assist the employee with the lifting of the coach. At first reluctant on his part, changed his mind when I explained that lifting the front wrong ran
the risk of cracking one of the windshields, and lifting the rear wrong ran the risk of breaking the shock mounts off. That opened his eyes and
allowed me into the shop. The tire jockey was at first passive aggressive to my suggestions, as he was about to lift the frame behind the left front
wheel. But after explaining the risks involved, came around and actually allowed me to help him do the work. Work with your vendor. When you explain
the risks, I've found most don't want to damage something they have never worked on or even seen before. Just the way I handled it.
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
I would not have a huge chain type place work on my GMC unless I was in a
pinch. If you are I would at least pre spray the studs with silicone spray
or wd40 to prevent gaul seizure when the schwabbie spins the nuts off at
150 psi.

Sully
Bellevue wa

On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 7:37 AM Larry via Gmclist
wrote:

> This fall I bought two new tires on my 6 yr rotation schedule. I also put
> best of the two replaced tires on the spare, had all seven balanced and
> rotated everything in keeping with my 6yr plan. Before I made the
> appointment to do this work, I talked to the manager and asked that I be
> allowed to
> assist the employee with the lifting of the coach. At first reluctant on
> his part, changed his mind when I explained that lifting the front wrong ran
> the risk of cracking one of the windshields, and lifting the rear wrong
> ran the risk of breaking the shock mounts off. That opened his eyes and
> allowed me into the shop. The tire jockey was at first passive aggressive
> to my suggestions, as he was about to lift the frame behind the left front
> wheel. But after explaining the risks involved, came around and actually
> allowed me to help him do the work. Work with your vendor. When you explain
> the risks, I've found most don't want to damage something they have never
> worked on or even seen before. Just the way I handled it.
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
When I got the new tires for the Birchaven at a Firestone store I
specifically asked about supervising the lifting (after explaining the
pitfalls of doing it wrong). They said "OK, fine." Line crew were
parroting the company line about staying out of the service bays briefly
but then, after giving the spiel they relented and all was good.

and BTW, They couldn't get to 250 ft-lb of torque, their wrenches only
went to 200 !

JWID

Stu

I still wish I knew why she jettisoned her hubcaps within 300 feet :0

> I would not have a huge chain type place work on my GMC unless I was in
> a
> pinch. If you are I would at least pre spray the studs with silicone
> spray
> or wd40 to prevent gaul seizure when the schwabbie spins the nuts off
> at
> 150 psi.
>
> Sully
> Bellevue wa
>
> On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 7:37 AM Larry via Gmclist
>

>
>> This fall I bought two new tires on my 6 yr rotation schedule. I also
>> put
>> best of the two replaced tires on the spare, had all seven balanced
>> and
>> rotated everything in keeping with my 6yr plan. Before I made the
>> appointment to do this work, I talked to the manager and asked that I
>> be
>> allowed to
>> assist the employee with the lifting of the coach. At first reluctant
>> on
>> his part, changed his mind when I explained that lifting the front
>> wrong ran
>> the risk of cracking one of the windshields, and lifting the rear
>> wrong
>> ran the risk of breaking the shock mounts off. That opened his eyes
>> and
>> allowed me into the shop. The tire jockey was at first passive
>> aggressive
>> to my suggestions, as he was about to lift the frame behind the left
>> front
>> wheel. But after explaining the risks involved, came around and
>> actually
>> allowed me to help him do the work. Work with your vendor. When you
>> explain
>> the risks, I've found most don't want to damage something they have
>> never
>> worked on or even seen before. Just the way I handled it.
>> --
>> Larry
>> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
>> Menomonie, WI.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
A 4"X 4" piece of wood cut to the length of 13.5" with a hole in the center
of each end to accept a 5/8" X 5" lag bolt has been used.

A 1 1/2" iron pipe 13.5" long and used a 5/8" threaded rod 18" long with a
nut and lock washer at each end.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

>
> Thanks lads! all great info as usual!
>
> Now I have to find out if she has a wheel nut spider on board ...let me tell you, buying something sight unseen 300 miles away in the middle of a
> Canadian winter and dealing with a storage yard that only opens on the weekend a 30 min drive away from my contact's place who has neither a camera or
> cel phone ... not for the faint of heart! :? :evil:
>
> Oh and someone in the bringing the coach home thread mentioned having an emergency 4 x 4 and a couple of lagadags to use in an emergency if you get
> caught out with a blown airbag - so I can get that in my toolkit before I go up to get her, what length 4 x 4 and what size lag bolts would be good?
>
> Thanks again
>
> Larry
>
>
> --
> Larry - Victoria BC -
>
> 1977 Palm Beach - 39,000 original miles so far
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Thanks!
Much appreciated Emory

All the best

Larry

> A 4"X 4" piece of wood cut to the length of 13.5" with a hole in the center
> of each end to accept a 5/8" X 5" lag bolt has been used.
>
> A 1 1/2" iron pipe 13.5" long and used a 5/8" threaded rod 18" long with a
> nut and lock washer at each end.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
>
>
> > On Dec 18, 2020, at 10:22 AM, twlldeen--- via Gmclist <

> >
> > Thanks lads! all great info as usual!
> >
> > Now I have to find out if she has a wheel nut spider on board ...let me
> tell you, buying something sight unseen 300 miles away in the middle of a
> > Canadian winter and dealing with a storage yard that only opens on the
> weekend a 30 min drive away from my contact's place who has neither a
> camera or
> > cel phone ... not for the faint of heart! :? :evil:
> >
> > Oh and someone in the bringing the coach home thread mentioned having an
> emergency 4 x 4 and a couple of lagadags to use in an emergency if you get
> > caught out with a blown airbag - so I can get that in my toolkit before
> I go up to get her, what length 4 x 4 and what size lag bolts would be good?
> >
> > Thanks again
> >
> > Larry
> >
> >
> > --
> > Larry - Victoria BC -
> >
> > 1977 Palm Beach - 39,000 original miles so far
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
 
Sir, The reason she jettisoned her hubcaps (in my opinion and experience) is because they used fat weights that prevented the hubcaps from seating
on the rims completely.

> When I got the new tires for the Birchaven at a Firestone store I
> specifically asked about supervising the lifting (after explaining the
> pitfalls of doing it wrong). They said "OK, fine." Line crew were
> parroting the company line about staying out of the service bays briefly
> but then, after giving the spiel they relented and all was good.
>
> and BTW, They couldn't get to 250 ft-lb of torque, their wrenches only
> went to 200 !
>
> JWID
>
> Stu
>
> I still wish I knew why she jettisoned her hubcaps within 300 feet :0
>

> > I would not have a huge chain type place work on my GMC unless I was in
> > a
> > pinch. If you are I would at least pre spray the studs with silicone
> > spray
> > or wd40 to prevent gaul seizure when the schwabbie spins the nuts off
> > at
> > 150 psi.
> >
> > Sully
> > Bellevue wa
> >
> > On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 7:37 AM Larry via Gmclist
> >

> >
> >> This fall I bought two new tires on my 6 yr rotation schedule. I also
> >> put
> >> best of the two replaced tires on the spare, had all seven balanced
> >> and
> >> rotated everything in keeping with my 6yr plan. Before I made the
> >> appointment to do this work, I talked to the manager and asked that I
> >> be
> >> allowed to
> >> assist the employee with the lifting of the coach. At first reluctant
> >> on
> >> his part, changed his mind when I explained that lifting the front
> >> wrong ran
> >> the risk of cracking one of the windshields, and lifting the rear
> >> wrong
> >> ran the risk of breaking the shock mounts off. That opened his eyes
> >> and
> >> allowed me into the shop. The tire jockey was at first passive
> >> aggressive
> >> to my suggestions, as he was about to lift the frame behind the left
> >> front
> >> wheel. But after explaining the risks involved, came around and
> >> actually
> >> allowed me to help him do the work. Work with your vendor. When you
> >> explain
> >> the risks, I've found most don't want to damage something they have
> >> never
> >> worked on or even seen before. Just the way I handled it.
> >> --
> >> Larry
> >> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> >> Menomonie, WI.
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
 
> I would not have a huge chain type place work on my GMC unless I was in a
> pinch. If you are I would at least pre spray the studs with silicone spray
> or wd40 to prevent gaul seizure when the schwabbie spins the nuts off at
> 150 psi.
>
> Sully

Yup....sometimes life leaves you with just one preceived choice.
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
Ok lads, I've read and re-read this thread and the changing of a wheel and getting new tires on is a BIT clearer but there are still a few points I'm
not totally sure of, too bad there isn't a video or some photos to go along with the descriptions ...Part of the problem is that I've never seen the
bogie system or an airbag in the flesh and even had to google "cribbing" to find out what it was. :lol:

I could use some clarification on some parts of the responses because I know the info is pertinent but I can't fully visualize what is being
explained. As a guy with no experience AT ALL with the GMC with a 300 mile trip through the mountains ahead of me on what might be questionable tires,
I really do need to get this all straight before I load the the truck to take me up there to bring her home.

I have no problem buying new tires. I can get them here and take them with me or have them delivered to an installer up in the Shuswap/Okanagan
waiting for my arrival. Maybe one of our members knows if there is a shop up there or nearby that can handle the job? Nearest larger centers would be
Vernon or Kamloops.

So this is what I've picked up so far from the advice here.

Get a couple of pieces of a spring - check. On the to-do list.
Front tires, not a problem if I have a 6-ton bottle jack with me, right?
Ken Burton said:Quote:
> If I want to only change a tire, I jack up that wheel to be changed under the A-frame / ball joint for that side. You only go up an inch or two to
> get the tire off. The front torsion bar (spring)take most of the lift and does not raise the frame of the coach. If I want both sides up at the same
> time then I jack it in the middle.

The wheel nuts are going to be tight. Use a 24", 1/2" drive - 7/8" socket and a pipe extender. Check. On the get list.
Give the threads a shot of never-sieze when refitting. Check.
Steel Rims - How tight do the bolts have to be? My torque wrench quits at 150 ...so go a bit more -then guess? 8o

Now the rears. This is a little less clear. The coach is a 77 Palm Beach model, and as far as I know the air system is original. I'm not sure what
Electrolevel 1 and 2 are, guessing left and right side air bag controls?
Ken Burton again said:
Quote:
> My ride height works great and I have never had the opposite side go down by disconnecting one hose. They are controlled by different solenoids
> and ride height is not even eon when the key is off. I have no idea how a power level works but on Electrolevel I and II what I am saying works
> great.

I'm slowly getting familiar with the coach terminology - but in this key tip for wheel removal, I'm confused by what these two components are - the
bogie support and the center support
A photo would sure help!
Ken Burton said again:Quote:
> I loosen the lug nuts, put a jack under the bogie support or air up the air bag, go up a bit and put some cribbing under the center support.
> (usually the on a stack of 4x4s and 2x4's) drop the jack or air, remove the air bag hose. Now the only weight left on the tire is the tire that is
> still resting on the ground and a little from the bogie arm. It is easy now to remove the tire. It bothers you, you can put the jack under the bogie
> arm and lift it slightly or install the steel pieces that you made.

Last week I went and had a chat with Colin who showed me a neat modification he fitted to his air bags. It was pretty sketchy in my mind last week as
I was still figuring out how an air suspension operated, but now, a whole WEEK later I can see I'm going to do the same mod - Colin had fitted a ball
cock shutoff valve in the line at the bag and teed off a schraeder just ahead of it. That way, if he lost air pressure to the bag, he could shut off
the feed line and inflate the bag with an auxilliary pump or at a gas station. Easy to depressurize the bag if you need to also, just press the valve
in.

Thanks to all who responded both on the forum, and with the email - all tips gratefully received!

Larry

--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach - 39,000 original miles so far
 
Once the air is totally out of the bag it is very difficult to get an air
hose to the schrader valve to air it up.
Instead of mounting the schrader valve at the tee I ran an extra
airline over to the T-skirt and installed the schrader valve pointing to
the ground between the two grease zerks on the bogie. JWID

On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 8:59 PM twlldeen--- via Gmclist <

> Ok lads, I've read and re-read this thread and the changing of a wheel and
> getting new tires on is a BIT clearer but there are still a few points I'm
> not totally sure of, too bad there isn't a video or some photos to go
> along with the descriptions ...Part of the problem is that I've never seen
> the
> bogie system or an airbag in the flesh and even had to google "cribbing"
> to find out what it was. :lol:
>
> I could use some clarification on some parts of the responses because I
> know the info is pertinent but I can't fully visualize what is being
> explained. As a guy with no experience AT ALL with the GMC with a 300 mile
> trip through the mountains ahead of me on what might be questionable tires,
> I really do need to get this all straight before I load the the truck to
> take me up there to bring her home.
>
> I have no problem buying new tires. I can get them here and take them with
> me or have them delivered to an installer up in the Shuswap/Okanagan
> waiting for my arrival. Maybe one of our members knows if there is a shop
> up there or nearby that can handle the job? Nearest larger centers would be
> Vernon or Kamloops.
>
> So this is what I've picked up so far from the advice here.
>
> Get a couple of pieces of a spring - check. On the to-do list.
> Front tires, not a problem if I have a 6-ton bottle jack with me, right?
> Ken Burton said:Quote:
> > If I want to only change a tire, I jack up that wheel to be changed
> under the A-frame / ball joint for that side. You only go up an inch or two
> to
> > get the tire off. The front torsion bar (spring)take most of the lift
> and does not raise the frame of the coach. If I want both sides up at the
> same
> > time then I jack it in the middle.
>
> The wheel nuts are going to be tight. Use a 24", 1/2" drive - 7/8" socket
> and a pipe extender. Check. On the get list.
> Give the threads a shot of never-sieze when refitting. Check.
> Steel Rims - How tight do the bolts have to be? My torque wrench quits at
> 150 ...so go a bit more -then guess? 8o
>
> Now the rears. This is a little less clear. The coach is a 77 Palm Beach
> model, and as far as I know the air system is original. I'm not sure what
> Electrolevel 1 and 2 are, guessing left and right side air bag controls?
> Ken Burton again said:
> Quote:
> > My ride height works great and I have never had the opposite side go
> down by disconnecting one hose. They are controlled by different solenoids
> > and ride height is not even eon when the key is off. I have no idea how
> a power level works but on Electrolevel I and II what I am saying works
> > great.
>
> I'm slowly getting familiar with the coach terminology - but in this key
> tip for wheel removal, I'm confused by what these two components are - the
> bogie support and the center support
> A photo would sure help!
> Ken Burton said again:Quote:
> > I loosen the lug nuts, put a jack under the bogie support or air up the
> air bag, go up a bit and put some cribbing under the center support.
> > (usually the on a stack of 4x4s and 2x4's) drop the jack or air, remove
> the air bag hose. Now the only weight left on the tire is the tire that is
> > still resting on the ground and a little from the bogie arm. It is easy
> now to remove the tire. It bothers you, you can put the jack under the bogie
> > arm and lift it slightly or install the steel pieces that you made.
>
> Last week I went and had a chat with Colin who showed me a neat
> modification he fitted to his air bags. It was pretty sketchy in my mind
> last week as
> I was still figuring out how an air suspension operated, but now, a whole
> WEEK later I can see I'm going to do the same mod - Colin had fitted a ball
> cock shutoff valve in the line at the bag and teed off a schraeder just
> ahead of it. That way, if he lost air pressure to the bag, he could shut off
> the feed line and inflate the bag with an auxilliary pump or at a gas
> station. Easy to depressurize the bag if you need to also, just press the
> valve
> in.
>
> Thanks to all who responded both on the forum, and with the email - all
> tips gratefully received!
>
> Larry
>
>
>
>
> --
> Larry - Victoria BC -
>
> 1977 Palm Beach - 39,000 original miles so far
>
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>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
 
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