Ken,
I am going to address your issues inline for two reasons (even though I don't like doing this):
A - It should be clearer in the final reading.
B - I am a little lazy about some things....
> I will begin the process of fixing fuel delivery issues on my motorhome. The previous owner (my Grandpa!) let it sit for a bit too long. It has
> trouble getting fuel from the tanks all the way to the carb.
> **Given the age and condition of the coach, I would bet that the rubber lines on top of the tank have become porous.**
> It will start and run just fine on a small tank strapped to the bumper. So I want to drop the fuel tanks, verify they are clean, and begin to
> replace everything that might need replacing due to age and ethanol.
> **This is not a terrible job (wrote the guy that had his tanks down 5 times until he got it right). I will send you my notes on methods and what
> I have learned if you would like. (That is really just me hoping to save someone else four tank services.)
> I will likely run with the carburetor for a few years before possibly looking at fuel injection - that said - I'd like to make life as easy as
> possible on myself once this is done. I live in Northern California, where it gets very hot in the summer (well above 100). I want to minimize
> vapor lock as much as possible with the carb setup, so I will be looking to:
> 1. Potentially rebuild carb
> **The word rebuild is over used here. Just buy a kit, read the instructions on the Rochester site, clean it and put it back on. GENTLY
> **Ask us before trying to remove it. The filter plug is easily damaged and expensive to repair.
> 2. Insulated carb to fuel pump line
> **This is the one line that is under pressure and does not really need insulation. OR at lease it didn't help me much.
> 3. New Gates Barricade fuel lines all the way around
> **Very good plan - It has been good for me.
> 4. Polyarmor hard lines at least on top of the tanks
> **Also a good plan that was kind of a pain but I don't have to worry about the rubber on top of the tanks again.
> 5. New fuel tank selector valve
> **What you have is probably junk, most are but the replacement is upside down and backwards and take some creativity to install.
> 6. New manual fuel pump
> **Do not do this if you are going to in-tank pumps or any electric pumps *** More down the page
> 7. New in tank electric fuel pumps - https://www.gmcrvparts.com/product-p/gm12-007.3.htm
> **If going to TBI this is a good idea. More down the page - again
> 8. Access holes in floor to facilitate electric pump service in the future.
> **This can't hurt.
>
> Has anyone used the above in tank fuel pumps? They seem like the easiest, quickest, and maybe best path forward? Any other advice, or
> parts/pieces I might be missing?
>
> Thanks,
> Ken
****************
Getting away from the engine driven pump is not all bad, but many have had success with low pressure (for carburetor) pumps mounted low in the frame
where there is very little lift height (negative pressure) to deal with and they are easily serviced.
If you mount a pump for each tank, you can eliminate the selector valve with a little additional control and then have built in redundancy. If you
later go to TBI, the pumps will want to be in the tank for cooling.
When you arrived here back in January I warned you that we all have this agenda that is to see to it that you get to enjoy your coach and what it can
do for you. All you have to do is ask and you will get the benefit of a truly awesome amount of experience. (I, by the way, am a piker in this
crowd.)
Please keep us apprised of your plans and ask us before you spend money.
When JimK said call him, he meant it. He knows about these things and knows what the good parts are.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
I am going to address your issues inline for two reasons (even though I don't like doing this):
A - It should be clearer in the final reading.
B - I am a little lazy about some things....
> I will begin the process of fixing fuel delivery issues on my motorhome. The previous owner (my Grandpa!) let it sit for a bit too long. It has
> trouble getting fuel from the tanks all the way to the carb.
> **Given the age and condition of the coach, I would bet that the rubber lines on top of the tank have become porous.**
> It will start and run just fine on a small tank strapped to the bumper. So I want to drop the fuel tanks, verify they are clean, and begin to
> replace everything that might need replacing due to age and ethanol.
> **This is not a terrible job (wrote the guy that had his tanks down 5 times until he got it right). I will send you my notes on methods and what
> I have learned if you would like. (That is really just me hoping to save someone else four tank services.)
> I will likely run with the carburetor for a few years before possibly looking at fuel injection - that said - I'd like to make life as easy as
> possible on myself once this is done. I live in Northern California, where it gets very hot in the summer (well above 100). I want to minimize
> vapor lock as much as possible with the carb setup, so I will be looking to:
> 1. Potentially rebuild carb
> **The word rebuild is over used here. Just buy a kit, read the instructions on the Rochester site, clean it and put it back on. GENTLY
> **Ask us before trying to remove it. The filter plug is easily damaged and expensive to repair.
> 2. Insulated carb to fuel pump line
> **This is the one line that is under pressure and does not really need insulation. OR at lease it didn't help me much.
> 3. New Gates Barricade fuel lines all the way around
> **Very good plan - It has been good for me.
> 4. Polyarmor hard lines at least on top of the tanks
> **Also a good plan that was kind of a pain but I don't have to worry about the rubber on top of the tanks again.
> 5. New fuel tank selector valve
> **What you have is probably junk, most are but the replacement is upside down and backwards and take some creativity to install.
> 6. New manual fuel pump
> **Do not do this if you are going to in-tank pumps or any electric pumps *** More down the page
> 7. New in tank electric fuel pumps - https://www.gmcrvparts.com/product-p/gm12-007.3.htm
> **If going to TBI this is a good idea. More down the page - again
> 8. Access holes in floor to facilitate electric pump service in the future.
> **This can't hurt.
>
> Has anyone used the above in tank fuel pumps? They seem like the easiest, quickest, and maybe best path forward? Any other advice, or
> parts/pieces I might be missing?
>
> Thanks,
> Ken
****************
Getting away from the engine driven pump is not all bad, but many have had success with low pressure (for carburetor) pumps mounted low in the frame
where there is very little lift height (negative pressure) to deal with and they are easily serviced.
If you mount a pump for each tank, you can eliminate the selector valve with a little additional control and then have built in redundancy. If you
later go to TBI, the pumps will want to be in the tank for cooling.
When you arrived here back in January I warned you that we all have this agenda that is to see to it that you get to enjoy your coach and what it can
do for you. All you have to do is ask and you will get the benefit of a truly awesome amount of experience. (I, by the way, am a piker in this
crowd.)
Please keep us apprised of your plans and ask us before you spend money.
When JimK said call him, he meant it. He knows about these things and knows what the good parts are.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
