headliner replacement help needed

B

burt and faye curtis

New member
Jun 3, 2012
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I am replacing my headliner as so many of you have done before. My problem
is the fit between the ceiling and the bath mod near the refrig and on the
other side between the ceiling and the dresser/closet mod. There doesn't
seem to be much room to slide the new panel into place. Just trying to
insert a small test piece is difficult to impossible unless it come at
those corners from the center and is pushed towards the outside wall, which
with the full size piece can't be done. I am using a panel of the same
dimensions as the original - or as close as possible using the old one as a
template.
So, has anyone else had this problem and if so what did you do to overcome
it and/or is there maybe a way to temp raise the roof in that area so I can
slide the panel in and then lower the roof on? Or any other ideas?
Really hate to cut the ceiling panel so short that I would need to install
a ceiling fill strip to hide the gap that would result.
Again, thanks in advance for all assistance.

Fay Curtis
'76 Glenbrook
Kneeland, CA
 
Use a jack with a stiff leg of appropriate length to raise the roof at a
rib. Use a piece of lumber below the jack to spread the load on the
floor. It's rather dangerous in that the two pieces will try to scissor on
you. Adjust placement as required. Good luck!

> I am replacing my headliner as so many of you have done before. My problem
> is the fit between the ceiling and the bath mod near the refrig and on the
> other side between the ceiling and the dresser/closet mod. There doesn't
> seem to be much room to slide the new panel into place. Just trying to
> insert a small test piece is difficult to impossible unless it come at
> those corners from the center and is pushed towards the outside wall, which
> with the full size piece can't be done. I am using a panel of the same
> dimensions as the original - or as close as possible using the old one as a
> template.
> So, has anyone else had this problem and if so what did you do to overcome
> it and/or is there maybe a way to temp raise the roof in that area so I can
> slide the panel in and then lower the roof on? Or any other ideas?
> Really hate to cut the ceiling panel so short that I would need to install
> a ceiling fill strip to hide the gap that would result.
> Again, thanks in advance for all assistance.
>
 
Faye,

Rather than a lumber pole on a jack, I'd suggest one of two other
alternatives: There are tall screw jacks that you might be able to rent or
borrow. They're used for beam reinforcement, overhead drywall support
during installation, etc.

More readily available and about as effective:

Lay a 2x4 or 2x6 on the floor for load distribution.

Measure from that to the roof and subtract 1-1/2" for the thickness of a
short load distribution 2x4 there.

Cut a 2x4 to the resulting length plus 1-1/2"-2". Put the top
"distributor" over the rib, and hold it there with the tall 2x4 as you
wedge that piece between the top and bottom distributors by driving the
bottom of the long 2x4 toward vertical.

That wedging action will exert all the force you need to raise the
roof. The post might bow a little, but not enough to be of concern.

Ken H.

> Use a jack with a stiff leg of appropriate length to raise the roof at a
> rib. Use a piece of lumber below the jack to spread the load on the
> floor. It's rather dangerous in that the two pieces will try to scissor on
> you. Adjust placement as required. Good luck!
>
 
Ken,
I am a bit confused. You say to measure to the roof from the 2 X on the
floor and then subtract 1.5 inches from that length. Then to cut a 2X to
this length plus 1.5 to 2 inches. So would't it just be as good to take the
length measured and add up to .5 inches and cut it to that length?

Fay

On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 9:06 PM, Ken Henderson
wrote:

> Faye,
>
> Rather than a lumber pole on a jack, I'd suggest one of two other
> alternatives: There are tall screw jacks that you might be able to rent or
> borrow. They're used for beam reinforcement, overhead drywall support
> during installation, etc.
>
> More readily available and about as effective:
>
> Lay a 2x4 or 2x6 on the floor for load distribution.
>
> Measure from that to the roof and subtract 1-1/2" for the thickness of a
> short load distribution 2x4 there.
>
> Cut a 2x4 to the resulting length plus 1-1/2"-2". Put the top
> "distributor" over the rib, and hold it there with the tall 2x4 as you
> wedge that piece between the top and bottom distributors by driving the
> bottom of the long 2x4 toward vertical.
>
> That wedging action will exert all the force you need to raise the
> roof. The post might bow a little, but not enough to be of concern.
>
> Ken H.
>
>

>
> > Use a jack with a stiff leg of appropriate length to raise the roof at a
> > rib. Use a piece of lumber below the jack to spread the load on the
> > floor. It's rather dangerous in that the two pieces will try to scissor
> on
> > you. Adjust placement as required. Good luck!
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
I vote for the bottle Jack and the post.

Sully
77 eleganza 2
Seattle

On Friday, September 16, 2016, Burt and Faye curtis <

> Ken,
> I am a bit confused. You say to measure to the roof from the 2 X on the
> floor and then subtract 1.5 inches from that length. Then to cut a 2X to
> this length plus 1.5 to 2 inches. So would't it just be as good to take the
> length measured and add up to .5 inches and cut it to that length?
>
> Fay
>
> On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 9:06 PM, Ken Henderson >

>
> > Faye,
> >
> > Rather than a lumber pole on a jack, I'd suggest one of two other
> > alternatives: There are tall screw jacks that you might be able to rent
> or
> > borrow. They're used for beam reinforcement, overhead drywall support
> > during installation, etc.
> >
> > More readily available and about as effective:
> >
> > Lay a 2x4 or 2x6 on the floor for load distribution.
> >
> > Measure from that to the roof and subtract 1-1/2" for the thickness
> of a
> > short load distribution 2x4 there.
> >
> > Cut a 2x4 to the resulting length plus 1-1/2"-2". Put the top
> > "distributor" over the rib, and hold it there with the tall 2x4 as you
> > wedge that piece between the top and bottom distributors by driving the
> > bottom of the long 2x4 toward vertical.
> >
> > That wedging action will exert all the force you need to raise the
> > roof. The post might bow a little, but not enough to be of concern.
> >
> > Ken H.
> >
> >
> > On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 11:22 PM, Billy Massey >
> > > Use a jack with a stiff leg of appropriate length to raise the roof at
> a
> > > rib. Use a piece of lumber below the jack to spread the load on the
> > > floor. It's rather dangerous in that the two pieces will try to
> scissor
> > on
> > > you. Adjust placement as required. Good luck!
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Faye,

Yeah, your math is correct. But if I'd left out the reason for it, you
might have not understood the rationale -- you obviously did, so it should
work great for you. Even if you have to add or subtract 1/2". :-)

(Seriously, I didn't really think YOU needed all that, but SOMEONE did) :-)

Ken H.

On Sat, Sep 17, 2016 at 12:25 AM, Burt and Faye curtis <

> Ken,
> I am a bit confused. You say to measure to the roof from the 2 X on the
> floor and then subtract 1.5 inches from that length. Then to cut a 2X to
> this length plus 1.5 to 2 inches. So would't it just be as good to take the
> length measured and add up to .5 inches and cut it to that length?
>
> Fay
>
> On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 9:06 PM, Ken Henderson

>
> > Faye,
> >
> > Rather than a lumber pole on a jack, I'd suggest one of two other
> > alternatives: There are tall screw jacks that you might be able to rent
> or
> > borrow. They're used for beam reinforcement, overhead drywall support
> > during installation, etc.
> >
> > More readily available and about as effective:
> >
> > Lay a 2x4 or 2x6 on the floor for load distribution.
> >
> > Measure from that to the roof and subtract 1-1/2" for the thickness
> of a
> > short load distribution 2x4 there.
> >
> > Cut a 2x4 to the resulting length plus 1-1/2"-2". Put the top
> > "distributor" over the rib, and hold it there with the tall 2x4 as you
> > wedge that piece between the top and bottom distributors by driving the
> > bottom of the long 2x4 toward vertical.
> >
> > That wedging action will exert all the force you need to raise the
> > roof. The post might bow a little, but not enough to be of concern.
> >
> > Ken H.
> >
> >

> >
> > > Use a jack with a stiff leg of appropriate length to raise the roof at
> a
> > > rib. Use a piece of lumber below the jack to spread the load on the
> > > floor. It's rather dangerous in that the two pieces will try to
> scissor
> > on
> > > you. Adjust placement as required. Good luck!
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Ken,
Thanks. Will try it tomorrow. Nice to know that pushing up should work.

Fay

> Faye,
>
> Yeah, your math is correct. But if I'd left out the reason for it, you
> might have not understood the rationale -- you obviously did, so it should
> work great for you. Even if you have to add or subtract 1/2". :-)
>
> (Seriously, I didn't really think YOU needed all that, but SOMEONE did)
> :-)
>
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Sat, Sep 17, 2016 at 12:25 AM, Burt and Faye curtis <

>
> > Ken,
> > I am a bit confused. You say to measure to the roof from the 2 X on the
> > floor and then subtract 1.5 inches from that length. Then to cut a 2X to
> > this length plus 1.5 to 2 inches. So would't it just be as good to take
> the
> > length measured and add up to .5 inches and cut it to that length?
> >
> > Fay
> >
> > On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 9:06 PM, Ken Henderson >

> >
> > > Faye,
> > >
> > > Rather than a lumber pole on a jack, I'd suggest one of two other
> > > alternatives: There are tall screw jacks that you might be able to
> rent
> > or
> > > borrow. They're used for beam reinforcement, overhead drywall support
> > > during installation, etc.
> > >
> > > More readily available and about as effective:
> > >
> > > Lay a 2x4 or 2x6 on the floor for load distribution.
> > >
> > > Measure from that to the roof and subtract 1-1/2" for the thickness
> > of a
> > > short load distribution 2x4 there.
> > >
> > > Cut a 2x4 to the resulting length plus 1-1/2"-2". Put the top
> > > "distributor" over the rib, and hold it there with the tall 2x4 as you
> > > wedge that piece between the top and bottom distributors by driving the
> > > bottom of the long 2x4 toward vertical.
> > >
> > > That wedging action will exert all the force you need to raise the
> > > roof. The post might bow a little, but not enough to be of concern.
> > >
> > > Ken H.
> > >
> > >
> > > On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 11:22 PM, Billy Massey > >
> > > > Use a jack with a stiff leg of appropriate length to raise the roof
> at
> > a
> > > > rib. Use a piece of lumber below the jack to spread the load on the
> > > > floor. It's rather dangerous in that the two pieces will try to
> > scissor
> > > on
> > > > you. Adjust placement as required. Good luck!
> > > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Morning from Germany,
> I am replacing my headliner as so many of you have done before. My > problem is the fit between the ceiling and the bath mod near the >
refrig and on the other side between the ceiling and the >
dresser/closet mod.

Everybody has that issue it seems. I fixed with standing up in that area
and with my head pushing the ceiling up enough to create an opening.
--

Best regards

Peer Oliver Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA

'76a Eleganza II, VA
 
Technical clarification:

The method described below should NOT be used by non-harded headed Germans or descendants thereof!

;-)

Regards,
Rob Mueller
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Peer Oliver Schmidt GMC
Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2016 5:54 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] headliner replacement help needed

Morning from Germany,

Everybody has that issue it seems. I fixed with standing up in that area and with my head pushing the ceiling up enough to create an
opening.

Best regards
Peer Oliver Schmidt
 
I used bottle jack and 4x4. Worked nicely. HF has a suitable device, designed for use in a pickup truck bed, that will easy do the trick. You may have
to place something underneath to get the jack high enough, but you can easily control the amount of pressure that you apply. I use this for moving
overhead cabinets.
Tom, MS II
--
1975 GMC Avion
KA4CSG
 
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