GMC Aluminum

R

Rich Kinas

Member
Jul 30, 2019
110
1
18
Hey all. I have some patch work to do on the roof of my coach, 1976 Eleganza II. I measured the aluminum thickness at .065 inches (14 gauge). But when
looking online to purchase an appropriate "patch" panel there are various alloys available. Does anyone know that actual alloy that was used on our
coaches? Also I am looking for any suggestions as to my proposed process to move the refrigerator vent outboard since I am installing a propane
combination Norcold and originally it was just electric. I would have just ducted it over to the existing opening however the duct would be at an
angle greater than 45deg which Norcold states can not be the case for proper performance. So I am just going to move it outboard. My plan is to use a
patch 1 inch larger than the existing cutout, rivet this patch onto the inside surface of the roof, using existing holes where the vent cap was
mounted (at a minimum) then epoxy a fill in piece of aluminum to this patch area to bring the patch flush with existing roof. Here are some questions
for the group:

1) I would prefer to use countersunk rivets but can only find dimple sets for up to 16gauge aluminum. Any problem using flush (large flange) rivets?
2) How many rivets would you recommend to secure the patch? Existing holes for cap were about 1.5" apart, I would think this would be sufficient.
Thoughts?
3) Would epoxy be sufficient to attach the filler aluminum to the underlying patch or should I rivet this some amount as well?
4) I would prefer solid rivets as well however they do make some closed-end self sealing blind (pop) rivets. Any concerns on using these, since the
process would be much simpler and I could do it without getting the wife involved (which in situations such as this, un-tried and un-tested processes,
I have found to be a better plan ;)

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated

Rich Kinas
1976 Eleganza II
Orlando, FL
 
Very interested in this topic as well as I’ll be patching the tv antenna plate/hole I’m about to create.

Jeff Luke
77’ Royale
Western MA

Sent from my mobile device

>
> Hey all. I have some patch work to do on the roof of my coach, 1976 Eleganza II. I measured the aluminum thickness at .065 inches (14 gauge). But when
> looking online to purchase an appropriate "patch" panel there are various alloys available. Does anyone know that actual alloy that was used on our
> coaches? Also I am looking for any suggestions as to my proposed process to move the refrigerator vent outboard since I am installing a propane
> combination Norcold and originally it was just electric. I would have just ducted it over to the existing opening however the duct would be at an
> angle greater than 45deg which Norcold states can not be the case for proper performance. So I am just going to move it outboard. My plan is to use a
> patch 1 inch larger than the existing cutout, rivet this patch onto the inside surface of the roof, using existing holes where the vent cap was
> mounted (at a minimum) then epoxy a fill in piece of aluminum to this patch area to bring the patch flush with existing roof. Here are some questions
> for the group:
>
> 1) I would prefer to use countersunk rivets but can only find dimple sets for up to 16gauge aluminum. Any problem using flush (large flange) rivets?
> 2) How many rivets would you recommend to secure the patch? Existing holes for cap were about 1.5" apart, I would think this would be sufficient.
> Thoughts?
> 3) Would epoxy be sufficient to attach the filler aluminum to the underlying patch or should I rivet this some amount as well?
> 4) I would prefer solid rivets as well however they do make some closed-end self sealing blind (pop) rivets. Any concerns on using these, since the
> process would be much simpler and I could do it without getting the wife involved (which in situations such as this, un-tried and un-tested processes,
> I have found to be a better plan ;)
>
> Any feedback would be greatly appreciated
>
> Rich Kinas
> 1976 Eleganza II
> Orlando, FL
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Hey Rich,
I'll see if I can find the alloy I've got it somewhere. It's not critical however. 6061 should be fine.

The way I did all my patches:

Cut a patch panel larger than the patch by 1" on all sides. Clean the inside of the area down to bare metal and use 3m panel bond adhesive to attach
the panel to the inside.
Once that's dry cut a fill panel for the outside and adhere it to the inner one with the same 3m panel bond.
I used screws to hold it in place while it dried, and then removed them and filled the holes with the same panel bond (its epoxy based and turns rock
hard)
years later and many holes patched with no issues.
--
Justin Brady
http://www.thegmcrv.com/
1976 Palm Beach 455
 
What Justin said. Easiest and best way period.

Sully
Bellevue wa

On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 9:54 AM Justin Brady via Gmclist <

> Hey Rich,
> I'll see if I can find the alloy I've got it somewhere. It's not critical
> however. 6061 should be fine.
>
> The way I did all my patches:
>
> Cut a patch panel larger than the patch by 1" on all sides. Clean the
> inside of the area down to bare metal and use 3m panel bond adhesive to
> attach
> the panel to the inside.
> Once that's dry cut a fill panel for the outside and adhere it to the
> inner one with the same 3m panel bond.
> I used screws to hold it in place while it dried, and then removed them
> and filled the holes with the same panel bond (its epoxy based and turns
> rock
> hard)
> years later and many holes patched with no issues.
> --
> Justin Brady
> http://www.thegmcrv.com/
> 1976 Palm Beach 455
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Haven’t you considered not moving the vent?I have had 3 propane/electric refrigerators in my GMC over the 38 years I’ve owned it. The original vent placement worked very well. There was plenty of draft for the refrigerator without having it directly over the coils.

I am sure that dozens if not hundred GMC owners will tell you the same.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick CO

>
> Here's the 3m Panel bond.
> You'll need an applicator gun as well.
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PEW4MI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> --
> Justin Brady
> http://www.thegmcrv.com/
> 1976 Palm Beach 455
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Emery,

I did consider it however I have never used a propane frig before and from
what I was reading on the Norcold installation manual leaving the vent
where it is would not be sufficient. Did you build a special baffle for the
top of the frig and the wall to vector the plenum over to the vent? From
looking at it I would guess the current vent is 6 inches inboard of what
would be directly above the coils and the top of the frig is about 5 inches
or less exceeding the 45degree maximum specified by Norcold. And of course
there is an aluminum rib on the outside edge of the existing vent so that's
another 1.5 inches kinda blocking the angled draft. Do you think this could
sufficiently draft the frig?

Rich Kinas
1976 Elaganza II
Orlando, FL

On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 3:18 PM Emery Stora via Gmclist <

> Haven’t you considered not moving the vent?I have had 3 propane/electric
> refrigerators in my GMC over the 38 years I’ve owned it. The original vent
> placement worked very well. There was plenty of draft for the refrigerator
> without having it directly over the coils.
>
> I am sure that dozens if not hundred GMC owners will tell you the same.
>
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick CO
>
> > On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:56 AM, Justin Brady via Gmclist <

> >
> > Here's the 3m Panel bond.
> > You'll need an applicator gun as well.
> >
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PEW4MI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> > --
> > Justin Brady
> > http://www.thegmcrv.com/
> > 1976 Palm Beach 455
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Just another option:

You can put a computer fan or 2 at the top of the vent to create a draft. This makes the fridge cool better and should fully negate any losses from
the angle of the vent.
Downside is they pull an amp or so of electricty.
When I ran a propane fridge I had them wired to a temperature switch on the back of the fridge, when the fridge gets hot the fans kick on.

I probably still have my fan setup sitting around if you wanted it.
--
Justin Brady
http://www.thegmcrv.com/
1976 Palm Beach 455
 
I think if the opening is of the correct size it’s exact location in the
enclosure is not critical. You will need to ensure you have an inlet at or
near the bottom of the enclosure to allow make up air into the cabinet.

For some reason I thought you were deleting a sewer vent hole.

Sully
Bellevue wa.

On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:34 PM Rich Kinas via Gmclist <

> Emery,
>
> I did consider it however I have never used a propane frig before and from
> what I was reading on the Norcold installation manual leaving the vent
> where it is would not be sufficient. Did you build a special baffle for the
> top of the frig and the wall to vector the plenum over to the vent? From
> looking at it I would guess the current vent is 6 inches inboard of what
> would be directly above the coils and the top of the frig is about 5 inches
> or less exceeding the 45degree maximum specified by Norcold. And of course
> there is an aluminum rib on the outside edge of the existing vent so that's
> another 1.5 inches kinda blocking the angled draft. Do you think this could
> sufficiently draft the frig?
>
> Rich Kinas
> 1976 Elaganza II
> Orlando, FL
>
> On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 3:18 PM Emery Stora via Gmclist <

>
> > Haven’t you considered not moving the vent?I have had 3 propane/electric
> > refrigerators in my GMC over the 38 years I’ve owned it. The original
> vent
> > placement worked very well. There was plenty of draft for the
> refrigerator
> > without having it directly over the coils.
> >
> > I am sure that dozens if not hundred GMC owners will tell you the same.
> >
> >
> > Emery Stora
> > 77 Kingsley
> > Frederick CO
> >
> > > On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:56 AM, Justin Brady via Gmclist <

> > >
> > > Here's the 3m Panel bond.
> > > You'll need an applicator gun as well.
> > >
> >
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PEW4MI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> > > --
> > > Justin Brady
> > > http://www.thegmcrv.com/
> > > 1976 Palm Beach 455
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Rick
The last refrigerator that I installed was slightly larger so I installed a little longer roof vent on top. this required cutting the hole a little longer. I assumed that would give more draw. I also installed a flat “pancake” fan in the roof vent but I've found that I have never had to use it,

I only have about 1’ of air clearance above the top back edge of my refrigerator but that seems to be plenty.

Do you have a baffle at the bottom? The GMC came with one to direct outside air up to the fins.

check out: http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/refrigerator-compartment-insulation-26amp-3b-baffle/p22306-p10100111.html

This shoes how I insulated my box and shows the baffle which is very important.

Emery Stora

>
> Emery,
>
> I did consider it however I have never used a propane frig before and from
> what I was reading on the Norcold installation manual leaving the vent
> where it is would not be sufficient. Did you build a special baffle for the
> top of the frig and the wall to vector the plenum over to the vent? From
> looking at it I would guess the current vent is 6 inches inboard of what
> would be directly above the coils and the top of the frig is about 5 inches
> or less exceeding the 45degree maximum specified by Norcold. And of course
> there is an aluminum rib on the outside edge of the existing vent so that's
> another 1.5 inches kinda blocking the angled draft. Do you think this could
> sufficiently draft the frig?
>
> Rich Kinas
> 1976 Elaganza II
> Orlando, FL
>
> On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 3:18 PM Emery Stora via Gmclist <

>
>> Haven’t you considered not moving the vent?I have had 3 propane/electric
>> refrigerators in my GMC over the 38 years I’ve owned it. The original vent
>> placement worked very well. There was plenty of draft for the refrigerator
>> without having it directly over the coils.
>>
>> I am sure that dozens if not hundred GMC owners will tell you the same.
>>
>>
>> Emery Stora
>> 77 Kingsley
>> Frederick CO
>>
>>> On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:56 AM, Justin Brady via Gmclist <

>>>
>>> Here's the 3m Panel bond.
>>> You'll need an applicator gun as well.
>>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PEW4MI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>>> --
>>> Justin Brady
>>> http://www.thegmcrv.com/
>>> 1976 Palm Beach 455
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Go to the Norcold website and download the installation manual. Read the
instructions carefully.
They tell you where the baffles should go. Read the fine print regarding
the warantee if the instructions are not followed exactly. . The one I
replaced lasted about 20 years before the tubing started to leak
refrigerant. The new one I had installed failed at the 11 month mark
No leaks, it just quit working. ...Norcold said " T-bleeping-S". Some
of the baffles and the lower vent were not installed to their
instructions.
It is possible to do the baffle that goes to the roof vent to suit them.
I don't think Dometic has the same installation and warranty caveat.

Norcold makes a great fridge, but the company policy sucks.

RonC
On Wed, 28 Aug 2019 15:33:55 -0400 Rich Kinas via Gmclist

> Emery,
>
> I did consider it however I have never used a propane frig before
> and from
> what I was reading on the Norcold installation manual leaving the
> vent
> where it is would not be sufficient. Did you build a special baffle
> for the
> top of the frig and the wall to vector the plenum over to the vent?
> From
> looking at it I would guess the current vent is 6 inches inboard of
> what
> would be directly above the coils and the top of the frig is about 5
> inches
> or less exceeding the 45degree maximum specified by Norcold. And of
> course
> there is an aluminum rib on the outside edge of the existing vent so
> that's
> another 1.5 inches kinda blocking the angled draft. Do you think
> this could
> sufficiently draft the frig?
>
> Rich Kinas
> 1976 Elaganza II
> Orlando, FL
>
> On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 3:18 PM Emery Stora via Gmclist <

>
> > Haven�t you considered not moving the vent?I have had 3
> propane/electric
> > refrigerators in my GMC over the 38 years I�ve owned it. The
> original vent
> > placement worked very well. There was plenty of draft for the
> refrigerator
> > without having it directly over the coils.
> >
> > I am sure that dozens if not hundred GMC owners will tell you the
> same.
> >
> >
> > Emery Stora
> > 77 Kingsley
> > Frederick CO
> >
> > > On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:56 AM, Justin Brady via Gmclist <

> > >
> > > Here's the 3m Panel bond.
> > > You'll need an applicator gun as well.
> > >
> >
>
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PEW4MI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_
title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> > > --
> > > Justin Brady
> > > http://www.thegmcrv.com/
> > > 1976 Palm Beach 455
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

Ron & Linda Clark
North Plains, ORYGUN
1978 Eleganza II
 
I was planning to do some modifications on the roof and was going to use a patch of aluminum sheeting and 3M 5100 marine sealant.

3m 5100 has been said to make a very tough seal, that you only use it on installs that you don't plan to change because you have to destroy
the installed item to remove it again after the 3m cures.

As long as you have good air flow through your frig coils, you shouldn't have a problem. You need to check because when on propane you have
carbon monoxide to consider. You need that air flow to remove those gases.

Also you are using Propane I assume.
A propane leak is a pretty serious leak.

When propane leaks, the gas is heavy and it will puddle in any low spaces.
Some of the GMCs have a access door that is 6 to 9 inches above the floor, forming an area where the
gas can puddle. if you have a pilot light or auto start system, thats all thats needed when the propane
puddle is rich enough.

Electric leaks are simple, you see the smoke. If you don't see any smoke leaking, you have no electric leak.
:)
--
GatsbysCruise. \
74GMC260 Former Glacier Model style. \
Waukegan, Illinois \ Keep those MiniDiscs Spinning \ MY GREYHOUND IS FASTER THAN YOUR HONOR ROLL STUDENT \ WindowsXP-Win7-Win8.1-UBUNTU STUDIO -
UBUNTU VOYAGER - Berzin Auto Center
 
Wow lots of great advise! So the Norcold 641.3 installation manual is
pretty specific about dimensions and angle of baffles etc. I like the idea
of not cutting a new hole in my roof, and just try the angled baffle
install first and see how it performs, but I also know that a directly
above the coils for venting would perform better without the need for
possible battery sucking fans if the angled baffle does not work out.
Currently my frig cabinetry is fully removed (water damage from the lower
vent) so i think at this point I am going to build the bottom platform on
which the frig sits, then build the baffle "cage" for the frig to use the
original top vent (angled baffle) using Lowes Insulfoam board and fire up
the frig and see how it works. This will allow me to test this design
before I finalize the design of the cabinet. Does anyone see any problems
with this plan? Also to address the possible propane leak, since the bottom
of the original side vent is about 6 inches higher than the bottom of the
frig I was planning on drilling three holes (like under the propane storage
tank) to allow the propane to flow out the bottom (and into the wheel
well). Any issues with this?

Thanks everyone for all the great thoughts.

On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 7:59 PM slc via Gmclist
wrote:

> I was planning to do some modifications on the roof and was going to use a
> patch of aluminum sheeting and 3M 5100 marine sealant.
>
> 3m 5100 has been said to make a very tough seal, that you only use it on
> installs that you don't plan to change because you have to destroy
> the installed item to remove it again after the 3m cures.
>
> As long as you have good air flow through your frig coils, you shouldn't
> have a problem. You need to check because when on propane you have
> carbon monoxide to consider. You need that air flow to remove those gases.
>
> Also you are using Propane I assume.
> A propane leak is a pretty serious leak.
>
> When propane leaks, the gas is heavy and it will puddle in any low spaces.
> Some of the GMCs have a access door that is 6 to 9 inches above the floor,
> forming an area where the
> gas can puddle. if you have a pilot light or auto start system, thats all
> thats needed when the propane
> puddle is rich enough.
>
> Electric leaks are simple, you see the smoke. If you don't see any smoke
> leaking, you have no electric leak.
> :)
> --
> GatsbysCruise. \
> 74GMC260 Former Glacier Model style. \
> Waukegan, Illinois \ Keep those MiniDiscs Spinning \ MY GREYHOUND IS
> FASTER THAN YOUR HONOR ROLL STUDENT \ WindowsXP-Win7-Win8.1-UBUNTU STUDIO -
> UBUNTU VOYAGER - Berzin Auto Center
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Rich,

It's been about 20 years since I did mine, so this old memory's not too
clear. But, I think if you check you'll find that beneath the beltline
longitudinal member the wheel well liner is an inch or so inside the outer
skin of the coach. That allows you to drill holes horizontally at the
bottom of the refrigerator compartment only through that inner liner. With
screen wire fastened over those holes, they're protected from both road
splash and critter intrusion, and leaked propane can escape.

Ken H.

On Thu, Aug 29, 2019 at 7:23 AM Rich Kinas via Gmclist <

> Wow lots of great advise! So the Norcold 641.3 installation manual is
> pretty specific about dimensions and angle of baffles etc. I like the idea
> of not cutting a new hole in my roof, and just try the angled baffle
> install first and see how it performs, but I also know that a directly
> above the coils for venting would perform better without the need for
> possible battery sucking fans if the angled baffle does not work out.
> Currently my frig cabinetry is fully removed (water damage from the lower
> vent) so i think at this point I am going to build the bottom platform on
> which the frig sits, then build the baffle "cage" for the frig to use the
> original top vent (angled baffle) using Lowes Insulfoam board and fire up
> the frig and see how it works. This will allow me to test this design
> before I finalize the design of the cabinet. Does anyone see any problems
> with this plan? Also to address the possible propane leak, since the bottom
> of the original side vent is about 6 inches higher than the bottom of the
> frig I was planning on drilling three holes (like under the propane storage
> tank) to allow the propane to flow out the bottom (and into the wheel
> well). Any issues with this?
>
> Thanks everyone for all the great thoughts.
>
> On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 7:59 PM slc via Gmclist

>
> > I was planning to do some modifications on the roof and was going to use
> a
> > patch of aluminum sheeting and 3M 5100 marine sealant.
> >
> > 3m 5100 has been said to make a very tough seal, that you only use it on
> > installs that you don't plan to change because you have to destroy
> > the installed item to remove it again after the 3m cures.
> >
> > As long as you have good air flow through your frig coils, you shouldn't
> > have a problem. You need to check because when on propane you have
> > carbon monoxide to consider. You need that air flow to remove those
> gases.
> >
> > Also you are using Propane I assume.
> > A propane leak is a pretty serious leak.
> >
> > When propane leaks, the gas is heavy and it will puddle in any low
> spaces.
> > Some of the GMCs have a access door that is 6 to 9 inches above the
> floor,
> > forming an area where the
> > gas can puddle. if you have a pilot light or auto start system, thats
> all
> > thats needed when the propane
> > puddle is rich enough.
> >
> > Electric leaks are simple, you see the smoke. If you don't see any smoke
> > leaking, you have no electric leak.
> > :)
> > --
> > GatsbysCruise. \
> > 74GMC260 Former Glacier Model style. \
> > Waukegan, Illinois \ Keep those MiniDiscs Spinning \ MY GREYHOUND IS
> > FASTER THAN YOUR HONOR ROLL STUDENT \ WindowsXP-Win7-Win8.1-UBUNTU
> STUDIO -
> > UBUNTU VOYAGER - Berzin Auto Center
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
The real problem here with Norcold refrigerators, is, in my opinion, two
fold.
Hundreds of GMC coaches were fitted with them during manufacture. They
were mostly all installed on the passenger side of the coach, next to the
entry door. As Ken said.
The problems arise when a replacement Norcold is fitted into the exact
same space that the old one came out of. Some of the newly fitted Norcolds
failed soon after installation. I know, I installed Ron Clark's unit.
Baffles were left intact, as was the roof vent.
Ron purchased the unit from a well known TEXAS motorhome supplier.
When his unit failed, he contacted them. They referred him to Norcold, who
refused to honor their warranty, claiming that the installation was at
fault, not their unit.
There is more to this story, but you get the idea.
Ron was out the cost of the unit, plus shipping. For that reason, I
will never install another NORCOLD unit, no matter who it was purchased
from. You can do as you wish.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Thu, Aug 29, 2019, 5:02 AM Ken Henderson via Gmclist <

> Rich,
>
> It's been about 20 years since I did mine, so this old memory's not too
> clear. But, I think if you check you'll find that beneath the beltline
> longitudinal member the wheel well liner is an inch or so inside the outer
> skin of the coach. That allows you to drill holes horizontally at the
> bottom of the refrigerator compartment only through that inner liner. With
> screen wire fastened over those holes, they're protected from both road
> splash and critter intrusion, and leaked propane can escape.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Thu, Aug 29, 2019 at 7:23 AM Rich Kinas via Gmclist <

>
> > Wow lots of great advise! So the Norcold 641.3 installation manual is
> > pretty specific about dimensions and angle of baffles etc. I like the
> idea
> > of not cutting a new hole in my roof, and just try the angled baffle
> > install first and see how it performs, but I also know that a directly
> > above the coils for venting would perform better without the need for
> > possible battery sucking fans if the angled baffle does not work out.
> > Currently my frig cabinetry is fully removed (water damage from the lower
> > vent) so i think at this point I am going to build the bottom platform on
> > which the frig sits, then build the baffle "cage" for the frig to use the
> > original top vent (angled baffle) using Lowes Insulfoam board and fire up
> > the frig and see how it works. This will allow me to test this design
> > before I finalize the design of the cabinet. Does anyone see any problems
> > with this plan? Also to address the possible propane leak, since the
> bottom
> > of the original side vent is about 6 inches higher than the bottom of the
> > frig I was planning on drilling three holes (like under the propane
> storage
> > tank) to allow the propane to flow out the bottom (and into the wheel
> > well). Any issues with this?
> >
> > Thanks everyone for all the great thoughts.
> >
> > On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 7:59 PM slc via Gmclist >

> >
> > > I was planning to do some modifications on the roof and was going to
> use
> > a
> > > patch of aluminum sheeting and 3M 5100 marine sealant.
> > >
> > > 3m 5100 has been said to make a very tough seal, that you only use it
> on
> > > installs that you don't plan to change because you have to destroy
> > > the installed item to remove it again after the 3m cures.
> > >
> > > As long as you have good air flow through your frig coils, you
> shouldn't
> > > have a problem. You need to check because when on propane you have
> > > carbon monoxide to consider. You need that air flow to remove those
> > gases.
> > >
> > > Also you are using Propane I assume.
> > > A propane leak is a pretty serious leak.
> > >
> > > When propane leaks, the gas is heavy and it will puddle in any low
> > spaces.
> > > Some of the GMCs have a access door that is 6 to 9 inches above the
> > floor,
> > > forming an area where the
> > > gas can puddle. if you have a pilot light or auto start system, thats
> > all
> > > thats needed when the propane
> > > puddle is rich enough.
> > >
> > > Electric leaks are simple, you see the smoke. If you don't see any
> smoke
> > > leaking, you have no electric leak.
> > > :)
> > > --
> > > GatsbysCruise. \
> > > 74GMC260 Former Glacier Model style. \
> > > Waukegan, Illinois \ Keep those MiniDiscs Spinning \ MY GREYHOUND IS
> > > FASTER THAN YOUR HONOR ROLL STUDENT \ WindowsXP-Win7-Win8.1-UBUNTU
> > STUDIO -
> > > UBUNTU VOYAGER - Berzin Auto Center
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
I don't see any issue with installing and running it to see how it goes.
Just think it through and use baffles to make sure that the intake air can only flow through the coils to cool the unit. From there convection from
the hot coils will draw the air through.
--
Justin Brady
http://www.thegmcrv.com/
1976 Palm Beach 455
 
Keep in mind, in warmer climete one needs all the help.
Domestic is no better at warrenty claims.

On Thu, Aug 29, 2019 at 7:16 AM Justin Brady via Gmclist <

> I don't see any issue with installing and running it to see how it goes.
> Just think it through and use baffles to make sure that the intake air can
> only flow through the coils to cool the unit. From there convection from
> the hot coils will draw the air through.
> --
> Justin Brady
> http://www.thegmcrv.com/
> 1976 Palm Beach 455
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
No, perhaps not Jimmy. But, you sure as heck are.
P.P.L. Motorhomes sure isn't.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Thu, Aug 29, 2019, 7:31 AM Jim Kanomata via Gmclist <

> Keep in mind, in warmer climete one needs all the help.
> Domestic is no better at warrenty claims.
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 29, 2019 at 7:16 AM Justin Brady via Gmclist <

>
> > I don't see any issue with installing and running it to see how it goes.
> > Just think it through and use baffles to make sure that the intake air
> can
> > only flow through the coils to cool the unit. From there convection from
> > the hot coils will draw the air through.
> > --
> > Justin Brady
> > http://www.thegmcrv.com/
> > 1976 Palm Beach 455
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> --
> Jim Kanomata
> Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
> jimk
> http://www.appliedgmc.com
> 1-800-752-7502
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
PPC in Texas didn't install the fridge, and Jim Hupy is not a factory
authorized dealer, so neither of them could authorize a warranty
replacement.
Norcold insists that only a factory authorized dealer can do the
inspection and authorization for a waranty replacement. I took the coach
to two local factory authorized dealers, and one said it was a problem
they had a recall solution for, and did the repair for that, which didn't
solve the problem. Then they said "Nope". The other one just said "Nope"
because of the baffles.
As far as I'm concerned, the problem was Norcold's way of avoiding the
warranty. Both reported their comments to Norcold, who said "Not only no,
but Hell no!"
The Amish-built replacement cooling unit is still cooling away, like it's
supposed to.
I didn't know about them when the original unit failed, sure wish I had.

The Amish cooling unit rebuild guy
http://www.fixyourfridge.com

Leon Herschberger, owner
National RV Refrigeration
5660 N SR 5
Shipshewana, IN 46565


As to where to stat looking for a new cooling unit.
Try this link
http://www.rvcoolingunit.net/servlet/StoreFront
They advertise the Amish Cooling units.
ron
PS. The Amish replacement cooling unit is available as a rebuilt or a new
one mfg. by them.
Don't remember which I got, but it's still cooling away runs like new.

On Thu, 29 Aug 2019 06:45:53 -0700 James Hupy via Gmclist

> The real problem here with Norcold refrigerators, is, in my opinion,
> two fold.
> Hundreds of GMC coaches were fitted with them during
> manufacture. They were mostly all installed on the passenger side of
the coach, next
> to the entry door. As Ken said.
> The problems arise when a replacement Norcold is fitted into
> the exact same space that the old one came out of. Some of the newly
fitted
> Norcolds failed soon after installation. I know, I installed Ron
Clark's
> unit.
> Baffles were left intact, as was the roof vent.
> Ron purchased the unit from a well known TEXAS motorhome
> supplier. When his unit failed, he contacted them. They referred him to

> Norcold, who refused to honor their warranty, claiming that the
installation was
> at fault, not their unit.
> There is more to this story, but you get the idea.
> Ron was out the cost of the unit, plus shipping. For that
> reason, I will never install another NORCOLD unit, no matter who it
was
> purchased from. You can do as you wish.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
>
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Get your shine on at www.cruzingear.co
GMCMI Spring 2026 Rally

Share this page

Share this page
Top Bottom
Back