Fan Shroud; Alternator bracket

[dick kennedy]

Some time back I noted that my fan shroud did not extend back over the fan
blades. There were a couple of replys that I may be missing some shroud.
Some one else has pointed out that many vehicles have a spacer between the
water pump and fan to extend the fan forward closer to the radiator. On my
'75 PB the fan clutch is bolted directly to the pulleys with minimal space.
My shroud doesn't look like it's been butchered so I'm wondering if there
is supposed to be a spacer that has disappeared over the years.

Surely somebody has been this path before so let me hear from you. As is
I'll probably try to locate a two to three inch spacer. This will put the
fan and shroud in about the right relationship and improve cooling in town.

Next problem: while changing the belts I found that the slotted piece
which adjusts tension on the alternator was broken into several pieces. I
don't know how it was holding tension but it can't go back in. Autozone
was no help but since it was late Saturday I didn't look farther. Is this a
stock item somewhere or do I need to make a new one? Will check NAPA then
junk yards if no one knows of a sure source.

The good news is the AC hoses are all connected and the vacuum pump is
running.
It's down to 700 microns as I write this. Assuming every thing proves tight
and there are no other random failures I'll have first cool in a couple of
days. (working for a living sure slows things down)

It's county fair this week, the wife wants to leave for NY on Friday and
the GMC is in pieces. Might have to skip sleeping this week.

Anyway any info or insight will be appreciated.

Enjoy

Dick

 

[richard waters]

Dick,
I sure know how you feel. My GMC is in pieces too and I have a trip
planned
in 12 days. I had a bad day today trying to shoot contact cement to
glue "warm
and fuzzy" material on 1/8" laun plywood for my new headliner. I tried
regular
spray gun and "airless" gun and the @#$ stuff just dribbled out! Stuff
was
supposed to be "sprayable" according to the label. Back to square 1!

Also have a new toilet to install!

Guess I won't sleep either.
Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI "apart and coming together slowly!"
- ----

>
>
> It's county fair this week, the wife wants to leave for NY on Friday and
> the GMC is in pieces. Might have to skip sleeping this week.
>
>

 

[richard waters]

Scott,
Thanks for the application tips. The way today went, I wondered if
all this GMC stuff was worth it. Tomorrow is another day however,
we'll see how it goes then.
Richard
- ---

>
> In a message dated 7/25/99 11:56:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time,

>
> > I tried
> > regular
> > spray gun and "airless" gun and the @#$ stuff just dribbled out! Stuff
> > was
> > supposed to be "sprayable" according to the label.
> Hi Richard!
> There are various kinds of contact cement that are available in spray cans
> like paint spray. These are not quite as messy! I use a spray adhesive made
> by Nashua #357, comes in a 17oz. can. I'm sure Lowes, Home depot etc carry
> something similar. A trick that I use sometimes to bond two surfaces that
> have contact cement sprayed on both surfaces ie. top of luan, bottom of
> cover material. IS - After the contact cement luan tacks up I would
> gently(do not bond) cover the surface with wax paper so it is completely
> covered with 3'' expose at one end, no open areas showing contact cement.
> The bottom of the cover material is place on top of wax paper gently. Once
> you get the material where you want it gently slide the middle wax paper
> out(using 3'' tab) while slightly touching material surface to bond just a
> little. Do this all the way to the ends. Once you get the wax paper out and
> finger bonded I use a dough roller (kitchen) or a board and hammer to really
> bond good. This at least gives you a fighting chance to get the fabric
> bonded to the board without a lot of ripping and rippled surface. Normally
> once bonded you are out of luck and into swearing Hope this helps!
>
> Scott NEHODA'S
> BACK YARD
>

 

[ron & gina]

I would like to get info also!! If thats possible by e-mail/site, or will
pay cost of copy/mail. Thanks Manny for any info.

Ron&Gina
73 Pumpkin-Rose
Ft. Mohave,AZ.

- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Sunday, July 25, 1999 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: GMC: Fan Shroud; Alternator bracket

> In a message dated 7/26/99 12:14:11 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
MTrovao

>
> > I have pix and his instructions if interested.
>
> Hell-Manny I will be interested to see what it looks like, if my stock set
up
> can be improved. I can imagine when I blow a belt its going to be real
fun.
> Richard forget about my last post even though it took me a half hour to
write
> and measure what I posted and the info is about OEM.
> Sometimes OEM sucks!
>
> Scott
>

 

[heinz wittenbecher]

>Scott,
>Thanks for the application tips. The way today went, I wondered if
>all this GMC stuff was worth it. Tomorrow is another day however,
>we'll see how it goes then.
>Richard

Yes it's worth it Richard.... hang in there.

Heinz

>---
>

>>
>> In a message dated 7/25/99 11:56:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time,

>>
>> > I tried
>> > regular
>> > spray gun and "airless" gun and the @#$ stuff just dribbled out!
Stuff
>> > was
>> > supposed to be "sprayable" according to the label.
>> Hi Richard!
>> There are various kinds of contact cement that are available in spray
cans
>> like paint spray. These are not quite as messy! I use a spray adhesive
made
>> by Nashua #357, comes in a 17oz. can. I'm sure Lowes, Home depot etc
carry
>> something similar. A trick that I use sometimes to bond two surfaces
that
>> have contact cement sprayed on both surfaces ie. top of luan, bottom of
>> cover material. IS - After the contact cement luan tacks up I would
>> gently(do not bond) cover the surface with wax paper so it is completely
>> covered with 3'' expose at one end, no open areas showing contact cement.
>> The bottom of the cover material is place on top of wax paper gently.
Once
>> you get the material where you want it gently slide the middle wax paper
>> out(using 3'' tab) while slightly touching material surface to bond just
a
>> little. Do this all the way to the ends. Once you get the wax paper out
and
>> finger bonded I use a dough roller (kitchen) or a board and hammer to
really
>> bond good. This at least gives you a fighting chance to get the fabric
>> bonded to the board without a lot of ripping and rippled surface.
Normally
>> once bonded you are out of luck and into swearing Hope this helps!
>>
>> Scott NEHODA'S
>> BACK YARD
>>
>
>

 

[dick kennedy]

Scott & Manny,

Thanks for the input. Mine is apparently missing some pieces so I need to
do something about it. The pix tell me I'm missing something but not a clue
of how it's mounted. So I'd like to see the alternative.

Manny, if you can't post the info I'd appreciate it if you would mail me a
copy.

Address is:

Dick Kennedy
606 S 750 W
Kokomo, In 46901

If the extender block would work it would solve the problem without having
to make another shroud. Can anybody think of a downside other than the
increased lever arm on the water pump shaft? Probably won't get to any of
this 'till after the next trip.

I too am wondering if this is all worth the effort. Some days I get the
urge to sneak the check book out of the drawer and head for the nearest RV
dealer and buy something new. I'd be happy with anything that runs!

Thanks

Dick

>Dick
>On the early coaches there is a two piece shroud. The plastic that bolts to
>the radiator and the iron ring that mounts to the engine. Ken Toma wrote an
>article in GMCMM on how to get rid of the iron ring and brackets and use a
>two piece aluminum ring. I took his advise and did mine. Looks better and
>makes it easy to replace belts, etc.
>I have pix and his instructions if interested.
>
>Manny Trovao
>73 Custom/ex-Glacier
>
>