Entry Door Recurving
- Thread starter 74_Coach
- Start date
Our Fearless Super Moderator is Canadian, distantly related to royalty and is well known in the finer poutine establishments throughout the Great White North.
I believe this is his coat of arms.
I believe this is his coat of arms.
Good news on it not spreading further and its possible the problem is more of the concentrated load from the aircon and the dynamic loading from the vehicle motion but for sure the rods could help with further spreading but some anslysis would have to be applied for sure. Anyhow if it stops thats good. Metal failure is a stretching process until you reach its ultimate tensil strength then you start seeing a slow tearing happen. Anyhow good to hear tge movement stops so the door curving will be what I’ll attempt to do. I too have leakage at the bottom of my door and it shows in the insides door finish with water stains.
Thanks for info,
TG
Thanks for the kind comments guys.
Here is a photo of the turnbuckle from the cabinet to the door frame. The bracket is a "T" bracket to spread the load on the cabinet.
No gap here between the door frame and the cabinet.
Here is a photo of the turnbuckle from the cabinet to the door frame. The bracket is a "T" bracket to spread the load on the cabinet.
No gap here between the door frame and the cabinet.
If your floor has a crown to it, you will need to outboard the body mounts. I did mine and the crown went away, and the door closes correct now.
Look at my second post in this thread from last August 17th and you will see the turnbuckle holding the cabinet against the aluminum framework.
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I thought you had meant to post an additional photo.
There's a lot of force on that turnbuckle, and it looks like there are wood screws holding the T-strap as there's nothing visible on the other side. I would've figured the screws would loosen and start to pull out of the ~5/8" particle board panel as the coach goes bouncing down the road over the years.
The screws are still all tight?
Nice use of square drive... oops, Robertson screws, BTW.
Bruce, we still haven't seen the turnbuckle setup you use for your personal middle age spread...
Inquiring minds want to know...
Inquiring minds want to know...
In my world there are no other kind!Nice use of square drive... oops, Robertson screws, BTW.
Just for you I checked the screws yesterday and yes they are still tight. I used a pipe clamp across the coach to pull the wall in about 1/8" if I recall. Then the turnbuckle inside to hold the wall on the door side against the cabinet.
Here you go.. Turnbuckle is on the front to cinch in the personal middle age spread known as Molson Muscle here in the Great White North.
Now where did I put that hammer...
Definitely superior. We can thank Henry Ford for square drive screws not gaining traction in the US until sometime in the 1970s.
Okay, thanks, Bruce. In your post above you said you had used the turnbuckle to pull the sidewall in, and that was throwing me. Now I understand that you used a pipe clamp to pull things together and the turnbuckle holds things together. Got it.
I recall Emery went across the coach and attached the far end of a come-along to a 2x4 on the outside of the driver's side window frame. Where were the 2 ends of your pipe clamp anchored?
One end was on the rear edge of the door opening about mid height with a piece of softwood to prevent damage. On the other side I had the window out behind the sink and used a 2x4 to spread the force over more area.Definitely superior. We can thank Henry Ford for square drive screws not gaining traction in the US until sometime in the 1970s.
Okay, thanks, Bruce. In your post above you said you had used the turnbuckle to pull the sidewall in, and that was throwing me. Now I understand that you used a pipe clamp to pull things together and the turnbuckle holds things together. Got it.
I recall Emery went across the coach and attached the far end of a come-along to a 2x4 on the outside of the driver's side window frame. Where were the 2 ends of your pipe clamp anchored?
