Entry Door - Best option for easy closing.

[billvv]

No, the bushing is inside the shell. If the steel shell is loose it’s because the rubber has rotted and collapsed.

Rick “common to all the original pins by this time” Denney

Ahhhhh... So the solid pin replacement strike doesn't change the OEM distance between the pin and the plate; it just compensates for the missing rubber. If you don't want to buy the replacement plate then you might need to move the OEM plate outboard.

My door, in addition to the missing rubber, is held away from the latch by an overcurved bottom that I need to straighten out, and I've created a new post asking if there's any suggestions on how to do that.

 

[Keith V]

I'd say the most important thing is to cut back the striker plate so it's flush with the door jamb, THEN decide if you need to move the pin, via the plate

 

[billvv]

I'd say the most important thing is to cut back the striker plate so it's flush with the door jamb, THEN decide if you need to move the pin, via the plate

I'll check tomorrow, but I haven't moved the plate and there's no play in the outboard holes. I'm pretty sure the plate is flush. I think it's the bottom of the door that's the issue at this point.

 

[Carl Stouffer]

I'm a little late to this discussion, but another reason the door latch might not be closing as easily as it did in the past is that the latch mechanism itself may be dirty/dry. I have had to open up my door and clean/lubricate the mechanism a couple of times over the years, even with the Bill Bramlett latch pin. The last time I had an issue with difficult closing, I used some spray penetrating oil on it, from the outside, and it fixed the problem, at least temporarily.

 

[eserv]

What you need is a solid striker pin. The factory striker pin is a thin steel shell over a rubber bushing. By now the rubber bushings have collapsed and the latch won’t close around the pin.

Bill Bramlett was making them using a solid steel pin welded to the mounting plate. The owners of those enjoy one finger closure.

Applied is listing them (search on “striker”) for a higher price than Bill used to charge, but this is one of those things you’ll thank yourself for buying even if the price seems a reach. I’ve certainly paid more for less in my GMC journey.

Rick “never a moment’s regret” Denney

Paying more for less seems to be the norm these days!

 

[MikeB]

When I was going through the same problem with mine I found it to be multiple issues. Replaced hinge bushings, adjusted hinges up/down in/out, and tried a solid striker. One problem I found was that the latch mechanism has a locking cam that has a spring And the spring was broke. The spring pulls the cam down to lock the jaws around the striker. Think of it as the jaws sort of grab the striker and pull the door tighter. Just a bit. Without the spring the cam just falls via gravity into place. So it still locks but requires a harder force to push door In to make up for the jaws not pulling. I bought a whole new latch mechanism from Golby and now the door shuts noticeably more solid.

Might be worth check it out.

 

[Bhart]

I was on the receiving end of Bill Bramlett's door closure parts and pieces. He did not move the pin 1/8" out.
Old OEM pin was pressed out and new pin pressed in. New pin was welded on the back side as well around on the pin on the front side.

 

[Rdenney]

I was on the receiving end of Bill Bramlett's door closure parts and pieces. He did not move the pin 1/8" out.
Old OEM pin was pressed out and new pin pressed in. New pin was welded on the back side as well around on the pin on the front side.

I bet there's a market for them if you have the pieces to fab some up, unless you are already doing that through JimK. I know of three or four just in the local group here who would like them if priced well.

Rick "didn't realize he used an OEM plate with a replacement pin, but it only makes sense" Denney

 

[billvv]

It seems the replacement strike is then just a steel pin that's the same diameter as the old pin/rubber/thin sleeve (before the rubber disappears). What is the purpose of the flange on the end of the pin? if it's just to keep the rubber/thin sleeve from slipping off the end, why not cut the flange off and slide a bushing onto the OEM pin?

 

[Bhart]

Possibly another item that has not been identified by anyone that could be a source for the door not latching properly. Are the hinges in line with each other? This would involve the door pins removed and a rod inserted from the top half hinge to the bottom half hinge to check for alignment. Door half hinge as well as half hinge on door frame. Getting the pins removed is another issue!!!!

 

[Keith V]

Yes the first step is to remove the striker plate and get the door to close nicely
Then put the striker plate where it is needed

 

[billvv]

Yes the first step is to remove the striker plate and get the door to close nicely
Then put the striker plate where it is needed

That's pretty much where I was when I started this thread.... When I close it without the strike, the bottom hits and springs to fully close, so I need to figure out how to curve the lower half of the door outward. The 'stick a 2x4 in the opening and push hasn't work; I need to figure out a way to use a clamp, similar to the photos to recurve the center of the door outward, but the other way around for the bottom half.

 

[daver]

I agree with MikeB that the latch mechanism may be the problem.
I did battle with the striker pin for several weeks, moving it all over to get the perfect close. Couldn't do it, still loose.
I finally took the latch out of the door and padded up the 2 latch fingers that grip the pin with a bit of weld. Ground the weld down so it was smooth and only about 2mm thick. Now the door closes near perfectly and is tight with no looseness. Very happy with the outcome.
BTW, I found the door's tendency to swing close or open or something in-between irritating. The steel latch/lock mechanism in the door is about the only magnetic thing about the frame. I glued a VERY strong magnet inside the body where the latch swings onto the body and the door. The magnet, being inside the FG, can not be seen and in the last inch of door swing, the door magically gets pulled onto the body. Now the door stays against the body if the GMC is anywhere near level. Since I took off the bumper strip, the door hits the paint so I glued 2 round rubber bumpers onto the exterior rivets on the latch so they touch the paint and cushion the impact. They work great IMO.