Engine Removal From Bottom

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Tom Katzenberger

Well-known member
Jun 26, 2019
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Guys,

I am in the process of removing the engine from the bottom. I have been diagnosed with a torn rotor cuff and it has slowed me down a little so it is taking a little longer then expected (I'm a little bit of a one armed bandit, LOL).

I have removed several engines in the pas, but always with the trans and final drive attached. Is it possible to get the engine down without the transmission and final drive? Or, is it best to stay with the program and just lower the whole bunch as I have always done?

Thanks for any shared experiences. I am thinking of trying to cut the work load down if I can.

Take care all and stay healthy,
Tom K.
 
Thank Christo,

I just want a fresh engine as we have put a small GMC group together to do RT66 out to the fall rally and then continue on to the Santa Monaca Pier and back. More a piece of mind thing and I have a lifter tap that I don't want to chance.

I did the engine on the road last year and never want to do that again. Soooo much easier in my shop with the lift and tools.

I'm rebuilding the engine with roller lifters and a couple of other items for use with 87 ethanol.

While I'm out with the shoulder the shop can be rebuilding the engine so hopefully not much time lost.

Thank you for the good vibes, they're much appreciated.

You take care and I hope to see you this year.

Tom K.
 
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Guys,

I'm basically trying to find if I leave the transmission up there will the engine clear the final drive coming down?

Thanks,
Tom K.
 
Guys,

I am in the process of removing the engine from the bottom. I have been diagnosed with a torn rotor cuff and it has slowed me down a little so it is taking a little longer then expected (I'm a little bit of a one armed bandit, LOL).

I have removed several engines in the pas, but always with the trans and final drive attached. Is it possible to get the engine down without the transmission and final drive? Or, is it best to stay with the program and just lower the whole bunch as I have always done?

Thanks for any shared experiences. I am thinking of trying to cut the work load down if I can.

Take care all and stay healthy,
Tom K.


I did mine down and out the bottom.

The height needed is only 23-24 inches. NOT the 30+ inches commonly reported.

There's no way to drop the engine + transmission + FD together, they won't clear the cross member. You have to drop the tranny first but you can leave the final drive attached which does make it easier.

The tranny plus FD is front heavy, so place the cup of a floor jack under the FD to support it as you lower the tranny. Do you have the special tool that bolts onto the tranny and provides a lift point?

You'll have to support the engine to lower the transmission, then pick it up, rotate it and lower it down and out. All the front accessory drive stuff has to be removed, and the exhaust manifolds removed too. Set the engine on two 4x4s on a Harbor Freight furniture dolly. It puts the bottom of the oil pan just above the floor and you can roll it right out.
 
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Did you consider rolling the front clip out?

My brother did it that way, and I have to say from "an ease of working on it" it sure was a lot more fun than rolling around underneath.

Going out the bottom, there was a lot of jumping around from under to up and in the coach, back and forth a million times, it got old.
 
Thanks Jared and Todd,

I'm already set up to go through the bottom and I was just trying to cut corners, but I guess I'll continue with the same old method. I would like to pull the engine from the top, but I already have the coach on the lift and disabled.

No worries, they moved my surgery date from tomorrow to the 26th, so I have abit more time.

Thanks guys, it is very helpful info.

You guys take care and thanks again,
Tom K.
 
I lowered my engine out of the bottom on my Palm Beach. I had twist it about 45 degrees on a vertical axis, then pitch it down in the back quite severly with a load leveling bar. And, this was all with the trans/final drive already removed as a pair. I can't see taking the engine out with the trans behind it. The engine needs to move rearward to clear the crossmember.
 
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I took them all out together. As mentioned, it's heavy! Coach has to be high enough to tilt the rear of the drive assembly down far enough to clear previously mentioned crossbar.
Seems like someone around should have the gantry assembly to pull from the top.
I would not want to try to remove the engine from the bottom without the trans. Maybe if you had a truck hoist.
 
I dropped mine out the bottom as a unit. I used a come-along in the front and another one in the back. I don't see any way to remove the engine with the transmission and FD in place.

I re-installed it the same way. It took some finagling to get it in that way, almost vertical to clear the front cross-member, then bring the back up.
 
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Thanks guys,

I've done 3 engine, trans and final drive drops where I dropped the engine, trans and final drive all together out the bottom. I was hoping there was a better way as I'm one and 1/2 handed with a torn Rotor Cuff.

I think there is no real short cuts and I will just do the whole thing. No just scooting the trans rearward. I called Barry Owens but there was no pick up so I'm just going to continue dropping everything.

Thank you all for all the input.

Have a wonderful evening,
Tom K.
 
This is the hoist I made and use, because the the hoist is rachet driven, both up and down, I should be good with operating it both up and down with one arm.

I replaced the engine while on the way to the NC Rally. The rod went through the oil pan. I had my son drive a spare engine out to me. I gave an 18 year old employee from the RV center a little side job to help me. We pulled and replaced the engine in 4 days. It was not easy working out of a hotel with basic tools.

Again, not fun with one arm either. Right now I just have too many projects.

Tom McMannus, thank you for the call and help as well.

Take care all and I really appreciate all the input and offers.
Tom K.
 

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FWIW, I installed with no manifolds. Not sure about whether vibration dampener was on or not. Leaving it off would help a bit. It's big, and heavy. No way to get around that.