Perma cool has a nice dual circuit maxi-cool PRM-13318 for $172.95, that is
a brute. Size is 4"H X 10 1/2"W X 18" L with 900 CFM fan. It has 3/8" FPT
ends and can be obtained from Summit 1-800-230-3030. Also have a 500 CFM
model for $149.95
>There are a couple of manufacturers who make a combined cooling unit with fan
>attached that can be mounted anywhere under the coach. Revcor and
Flex-a-lite both
>make these units. Flex-a-lite makes a unit that has two different cooling
coils in
>it with an attached fan that can do both oil and trans oil. Size is 15 x 17
x 3.
>Can be mounted anywhere. I am planning to use this config., and mounting it
beside
>the rad on the drivers side behind the steering assembly. Darren
>
>
>> Chuck, Are you telling me to eliminate the oil and xmission fluid cooling
>> INTEGRAL to the factory rad and ADD separate coolers for these two functions?
>> I agree that separating these will enhance the engine cooling the rad is
>> designed to achieve (by taking out the heat from the xmission and oil) but
>> is there enough room up there for two more coils? And if those new coils go
>> foreward of the rad, isn't there the potential for air flow restriction to
>> the rad (and the A/C condenser which is already foreward of the rad on my
>> coach)?
>> And, if that IS your recommendation (and I suspect you know a hell of a lot
>> more about this than I do right now
), might it not be wise to convert to
>> a rad NOT having the separate cooling chambers for the now relocated oil and
>> xmission fluid cooling, thereby gaining that space for more heat xfer for
>> the engine coolant.
>>
>> I find that I'm going to need a LOT of steel (or, better yet, STAINLESS
>> steel) line (brake, hydraulic, gas, etc.) replacements. Have you -- or
>> anyone else -- acquired the tools for bending and double flaring steel (or
>> stainless) to allow you to form and flare your own lines from bulk material.
>> If so, how big a pain was it to learn the tricks to satisfactorily do this?
>> Is it REALLY aa "black art" better left to an "expert?" If it's NOT a black
>> art, the cost of the tools and fixtures MAY quickly evaporate when measured
>> against purchasing already made up lines. In the alternative, perhaps one
>> of you can steer me to one of the competent and reputable GMC suppliers in
>> here who doesn't want one's first born for these items in a ready-to-use
form?
>>
>> Looking forward to your continued input (and that of others who have been
>> there, done that).
>> Dick
>>
>> >Check the motor mounts! If you replace the Radiator leave off the oil
>> >cooler at the bottom. Just have it removed. Add auxiliary oil cooler,
>> >transmission cooler. If you don't do this then change the hoses at a
>> >minimum and re route them away from the exhaust manifold on the right
>> >side. Clean the recovery tank and replace the lines. Be careful. This
>> >thing will crack easily. Be sure to add a screen mesh cover about 1/4
>> >size squares to the bottom to protect the two coolers. If you are
>> >interested in more air to the carburetor you should consider "RAM AIR"
>> >this can be accomplished by adding air scoop at the grill area and
>> >connecting it to the air intake of the carburetor's air cleaner. Change
>> >the air cleaner out to a K and N (reusable). While all this is undone,
>> >check to see if your battery cable has been damaged or the plastic
>> >protection covering needs to be put on or replaced. This cable runs
>> >across the front of your radiator at the bottom. If you take the
>> >radiator out you will need to remove the grill. VERY CAREFULLY. Then
>> >make a piece to attach to each side of the two fenders to assist in
>> >holding the grill stable. This is a weak place on the front of the
>> >GMC. If you take the radiator out it comes straight down not too much
>> >trouble, I used a small floor jack. The coach must be on JACK STANDS
>> >about 24 inches up. Check the battery compartment in the front. If you
>> >are going to change out this arrangement make the parts up and have them
>> >ready to install. Mine are made of 1/4 inch thick steel. They can be
>> >dropped from the bottom. The bolts to secure the battery are also
>> >welded to the sides instead of moveable. The top is moveable and it is
>> >much easier. Don't forget to put in holes for drips, either a wooden
>> >floor or fiberglass the entire thing with the resin. I think that is
>> >all for this area. Chuck
>> >
>> >
>
>
>
Tom & Marg Warner
Vernon Center NY
1976 palmbeach
a brute. Size is 4"H X 10 1/2"W X 18" L with 900 CFM fan. It has 3/8" FPT
ends and can be obtained from Summit 1-800-230-3030. Also have a 500 CFM
model for $149.95
>There are a couple of manufacturers who make a combined cooling unit with fan
>attached that can be mounted anywhere under the coach. Revcor and
Flex-a-lite both
>make these units. Flex-a-lite makes a unit that has two different cooling
coils in
>it with an attached fan that can do both oil and trans oil. Size is 15 x 17
x 3.
>Can be mounted anywhere. I am planning to use this config., and mounting it
beside
>the rad on the drivers side behind the steering assembly. Darren
>
>
>> Chuck, Are you telling me to eliminate the oil and xmission fluid cooling
>> INTEGRAL to the factory rad and ADD separate coolers for these two functions?
>> I agree that separating these will enhance the engine cooling the rad is
>> designed to achieve (by taking out the heat from the xmission and oil) but
>> is there enough room up there for two more coils? And if those new coils go
>> foreward of the rad, isn't there the potential for air flow restriction to
>> the rad (and the A/C condenser which is already foreward of the rad on my
>> coach)?
>> And, if that IS your recommendation (and I suspect you know a hell of a lot
>> more about this than I do right now
), might it not be wise to convert to>> a rad NOT having the separate cooling chambers for the now relocated oil and
>> xmission fluid cooling, thereby gaining that space for more heat xfer for
>> the engine coolant.
>>
>> I find that I'm going to need a LOT of steel (or, better yet, STAINLESS
>> steel) line (brake, hydraulic, gas, etc.) replacements. Have you -- or
>> anyone else -- acquired the tools for bending and double flaring steel (or
>> stainless) to allow you to form and flare your own lines from bulk material.
>> If so, how big a pain was it to learn the tricks to satisfactorily do this?
>> Is it REALLY aa "black art" better left to an "expert?" If it's NOT a black
>> art, the cost of the tools and fixtures MAY quickly evaporate when measured
>> against purchasing already made up lines. In the alternative, perhaps one
>> of you can steer me to one of the competent and reputable GMC suppliers in
>> here who doesn't want one's first born for these items in a ready-to-use
form?
>>
>> Looking forward to your continued input (and that of others who have been
>> there, done that).
>> Dick
>>
>> >Check the motor mounts! If you replace the Radiator leave off the oil
>> >cooler at the bottom. Just have it removed. Add auxiliary oil cooler,
>> >transmission cooler. If you don't do this then change the hoses at a
>> >minimum and re route them away from the exhaust manifold on the right
>> >side. Clean the recovery tank and replace the lines. Be careful. This
>> >thing will crack easily. Be sure to add a screen mesh cover about 1/4
>> >size squares to the bottom to protect the two coolers. If you are
>> >interested in more air to the carburetor you should consider "RAM AIR"
>> >this can be accomplished by adding air scoop at the grill area and
>> >connecting it to the air intake of the carburetor's air cleaner. Change
>> >the air cleaner out to a K and N (reusable). While all this is undone,
>> >check to see if your battery cable has been damaged or the plastic
>> >protection covering needs to be put on or replaced. This cable runs
>> >across the front of your radiator at the bottom. If you take the
>> >radiator out you will need to remove the grill. VERY CAREFULLY. Then
>> >make a piece to attach to each side of the two fenders to assist in
>> >holding the grill stable. This is a weak place on the front of the
>> >GMC. If you take the radiator out it comes straight down not too much
>> >trouble, I used a small floor jack. The coach must be on JACK STANDS
>> >about 24 inches up. Check the battery compartment in the front. If you
>> >are going to change out this arrangement make the parts up and have them
>> >ready to install. Mine are made of 1/4 inch thick steel. They can be
>> >dropped from the bottom. The bolts to secure the battery are also
>> >welded to the sides instead of moveable. The top is moveable and it is
>> >much easier. Don't forget to put in holes for drips, either a wooden
>> >floor or fiberglass the entire thing with the resin. I think that is
>> >all for this area. Chuck
>> >
>> >
>
>
>
Tom & Marg Warner
Vernon Center NY
1976 palmbeach
atrick
