Drinking the Koolaide... 😊

Non-Facebook link please
The video was actually hosted on FB, in addition to being linked there. But with the raw link to the particular reel, perhaps you can view it without an account?


Edit: I did try it in an Incognito window (sans cookies) and it appears to work. It'll prompt you for a login with the video playing in the background, but just close out that prompt and it'll let you watch.
 
The video was actually hosted on FB, in addition to being linked there. But with the raw link to the particular reel, perhaps you can view it without an account?


Edit: I did try it in an Incognito window (sans cookies) and it appears to work. It'll prompt you for a login with the video playing in the background, but just close out that prompt and it'll let you watch.
Cool! That worked and it's a neat trick. Thanks. 🫔
 
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Don't worry about delayed relays or manual cutoff switches.

I'm looking at the 1975 diagram, so take the details with a grain of salt...
The factory wiring had the air compressor running off a #12 brown accessory wire. The accessory circuit does not have power while the engine is cranking. If your compressor actually stays running simultaneously with the engine cranking, someone has messed with the wiring. This is an easy fix though, just return it to the factory configuration.

There are only a few circuits that are supposed to stay on while the starter is cranking. Check out the ignition switch portion of the wiring diagram for more details.
So, I checked and of course you are correct; the compressor is not running while in the "start" position. I have a habit of letting the surge tank build pressure before starting (it just takes a couple of seconds). If instead I just immediately turn to "start" the engine cranks a bit longer while the pump gets up to pressure (first thing in the morning), but it starts strongly. Kelvin says that's a good thing as it lets the oil pump come up to pressure before firing the engine. :)

Time-delayed relay mod on "hold" indefinitely....
 
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Time to address the air suspension leaks....

Ordered the Microlevel system from Keith V. (thank you for the price drop and accessories recommendations).

Ordered the following from Amazon to complete the system:

4-Way Valve Block
1774640073440.webp

Check Valve
1774640138316.webp
Air Line
1774646441768.webp

Has anyone with the older coaches (Power Level) moved the compressor from the front to the rear (like Electro Level)? If so, what compressor did you choose to minimize noise under operation? Now that there is no pneumatic connection between the air system and the control panel, I'm thinking of shortening the air lines, potentially bypassing the air tank.
 
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Time to address the air suspension leaks....

Ordered the Microlevel system from Keith V. (thank you for the price drop and accessories recommendations).

Ordered the following from Amazon to complete the system:

4-Way Valve Block
View attachment 18129
Bought the same one on Keith's recommendation.

Bought the same one on your recommendation! šŸ˜‰

Has anyone with the older coaches (Power Level) moved the compressor from the front to the rear (like Electro Level)? If so, what compressor did you choose to minimize noise under operation? Now that there is no pneumatic connection between the air system and the control panel, I'm thinking of shortening the air lines, potentially bypassing the air tank.
Coachmen put the compressors further back in the interior. My rear bath Birchaven has it under the range. The noise isn't a problem, it's actually a feature - hearing it running when it normally isn't lets you know there's an air leak.

The Birchaven has a small, 1 or 1.5 liter air tank, and that works fine.