- #56 411685 HOSE—vent, valve to carburetor
I also need to connect
- #31 385204 GROMMET—filter to valve cover
- #32 403192 FILTER ASSY.—ventilation, crankcase (prior to 1978)
Drinking the Koolaide... 😊
- Thread starter Tybalt39
- Start date
I also need to connect
I did, it is a Powermaster brand, and got it on eBay about 5yrs ago. Sounds different than stock starter. It has worked perfect since first installed. Much lighter and easier to handle. IIRC price was around $150 at the time.
I just used fuel line hose, and when that ages out I'll probably replace it with silicone hose.
I also like the 90° PCV - make the sharp bend in the fitting, not the hose.
Do you still have the old valve cover grommet? I ordered a new one, and it "looked right", but I could not get it to fit. It was a poor replica of the old one. So I ended up finding and reusing my old one. It's experienced the expected atrophy over the years and isn't as tight as I'd like, so I still need to revisit that--but at least it fits.
I do have everything, assuming its in better condition than the brittle hose.
Any luck with your search for an air-box to replace the cone filters that roar?
A thought from left field, looking for input....
I plan to replace the donut and birdcage with a McNeal Supreme II dashboard with a Dakota Digital instrument cluster, but I need to save a bit before putting out the cash for that new cluster and I have nowhere to store a new dash while waiting. I'm concerned that "Mac" will age out before I am ready for the complete conversion. So, I'm thinking about getting one and moving the existing OEM instrument cluster onto the center panel . Can I just remove the existing circuit board with the gauges and telltales, mount it to an ABS panel with the appropriate cutouts, make good chassis grounds where necessary, and be good to go while saving for the new cluster? Yes, I've already lowered the steering column.
Everything else would transition to the appropriate locations on the new dash panels, so the gauges are the only question.
I realize moving the speedometer may impact the length of the speedo cable. If I loose speedometer for a while that is no hardship as my Android Auto display shows GPS speed. Or, I purchase a longer cable (I need a new one anyway as the current cable binds a little, showing a bit slower speed than reality and making a clicking noise at all times).
I plan to replace the donut and birdcage with a McNeal Supreme II dashboard with a Dakota Digital instrument cluster, but I need to save a bit before putting out the cash for that new cluster and I have nowhere to store a new dash while waiting. I'm concerned that "Mac" will age out before I am ready for the complete conversion. So, I'm thinking about getting one and moving the existing OEM instrument cluster onto the center panel . Can I just remove the existing circuit board with the gauges and telltales, mount it to an ABS panel with the appropriate cutouts, make good chassis grounds where necessary, and be good to go while saving for the new cluster? Yes, I've already lowered the steering column.
Everything else would transition to the appropriate locations on the new dash panels, so the gauges are the only question.
I realize moving the speedometer may impact the length of the speedo cable. If I loose speedometer for a while that is no hardship as my Android Auto display shows GPS speed. Or, I purchase a longer cable (I need a new one anyway as the current cable binds a little, showing a bit slower speed than reality and making a clicking noise at all times).
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The threads regarding the airbox I was thinking of belonged to @Keith V , and he refers to it as a Duramax filter. I gather he got it from a Chevy Express. I'm curious what year, as it doesn't seem the Duramax was offered in all years with the filter pictured.
I'm seeing a Wix 46573 in one of his pictures. The Wix website doesn't have application data on their website. RockAuto lists these specs:
I'm hoping that CFM rating is BS. Many times RockAuto specs are on-the-money straight from the MFG, but sometimes they have errors. I don't see any spec data on the Wix website, so maybe the info is buried in some publication from them. I'd have to dig deeper.
In any case, I can't find any application data connecting this filter to the Duramax Express. It is used on MANY Express vans (with 4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L engines), and the associated airbox looks nicely packaged and easy to install in custom applications. But is it truly big enough? I'd like to see it spec'd with a big block or a larger displacement diesel to be sure. The Duramax Express filter I was able to find was a shorter, much wider oval shape and had a completely different airbox. It's probably fine, I might be over thinking it. If it comes sized with a 4" output, it's gotta be in the ballpark.
I'm finding the 6.6L Duramax in 2006-2016 Express 3500, and all call for the following filter instead:
So maybe those cylindrical airboxes came from an HD Express with a 6.0 rather than the Duramax Express?
Didn't hear back from Paul but JimK has one and you know it'll work.
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Of course he does!!
The boot is less than $4.00 but it has harder rubber on both diameters but softer rubber in the middle. Boots can also be used for idler arms or wherever a boot is needed. Don't think it would be big enough for the lower ball joint though.
What do they mean by "blown out"? Are they actually tearing? Or are they just failing to hold the grease in at the top or bottom? All boots will allow grease to come out if over-filled. It doesn't matter how well they're made, the pressures are very high.I purchased a replacement boot last time around using a part number from the forum. It was too small and wasn't used. So I let the mechanic order the full ball-joint. $4 vs. $25 is nothing compared to the labor charge, so why sweat it.
I'm more interested in why I'm going through joints/boots so quickly....
Well now that's interesting. It almost sounds like it's been getting squeezed against the knuckle too tightly? Is it both sides? I've seen people customize steering arms with the tapered reamers, and if you go way too deep, you don't get the nominal clearance for the boot to move around. Not sure if it's feasible for something like that to happen to the ball joint, I'd have to look at it. Another possibility is just super cheap rubber parts. There are urethane tie rod and ball joint boots out there, sold universally. They should last longer, but you'd have to start by gathering all the appropriate measurements.
I just posted a video on FB showing a guy making OE looking vacuum lines with 90 degree bends, using regular lines and a short piece of shrink wrap at the bend. Hold the bend, heat the wrap and it will stay in place as it cools. I may have to try that trick and straighten out some of the tubing on top of the engine.
I purchased a replacement boot last time around using a part number from the forum. It was too small and wasn't used. So I let the mechanic order the full ball-joint. $4 vs. $25 is nothing compared to the labor charge, so why sweat it.
I'm more interested in why I'm going through joints/boots so quickly....
Seems hard to believe, b/c those ball joints were riveted in. Replacements are bolted in, so yeah it may only be 3 nuts to remove but still, it's should be easier to just slip the new boot on.
I'm liking the "refreshed" starter. Thanx for the confirmation/push Paul. 
The coach now starts IMMEDIATELY upon turning the key. EFI combined with this starter makes a HUGE difference in the drivability of the coach.
And installation wasn't difficult, other than the time to get the wheel off and liner out. And get the coach jacked-up. You know, prep was the worst part....
The coach now starts IMMEDIATELY upon turning the key. EFI combined with this starter makes a HUGE difference in the drivability of the coach.
And installation wasn't difficult, other than the time to get the wheel off and liner out. And get the coach jacked-up. You know, prep was the worst part....
For the input, I'm just going to go with a "breather".
I'll try the suggested hose and shrink-tube method to replicate the exhaust tube. Once those are installed, my EFI installation will truly be finished (until I enable ESC...
).
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That's great news! I sure hated wondering if my coach was going to restart on those hot summer trips, at the gas station. It was such a relief when that issue was finally gone. That's the worst, those gas station restarts. Just the ideal amount of time for extra heat-soak into the already unhappy old starter.
And that is exactly where I was noticing the issue; stopping for gas/groceries. Actually called AAA after a grocery run. Before they arrived I tried it once more and it started (cancelled the service call). Never want to deal with that again!
