Drinking the Koolaide... š
- Thread starter Tybalt39
- Start date
Random thought...
The various upgrade projects listed for this coach indicate parts (steering column) from GM trucks 1988-1993/95. A co-worker who is into these trucks indicates they are the same from 1988-1998. Apparently, in 1996 GM started using airbags for crash protection. Is this why no one uses newer steering columns? Also in 96, media controls started to appear on steering wheels. So, in theory I could use a 1996-1998 GM truck column (or up to 2000 for SUV) to fit the coach and get media controls on the steering wheel. Even if there were compatibility issues with the shaft diameter or the splines, apparently it's very common in the custom vehicle modding community to use adapter shafts to mate differing systems.
Thoughts?
The various upgrade projects listed for this coach indicate parts (steering column) from GM trucks 1988-1993/95. A co-worker who is into these trucks indicates they are the same from 1988-1998. Apparently, in 1996 GM started using airbags for crash protection. Is this why no one uses newer steering columns? Also in 96, media controls started to appear on steering wheels. So, in theory I could use a 1996-1998 GM truck column (or up to 2000 for SUV) to fit the coach and get media controls on the steering wheel. Even if there were compatibility issues with the shaft diameter or the splines, apparently it's very common in the custom vehicle modding community to use adapter shafts to mate differing systems.
Thoughts?
Getting back to the reaction arm brake system...
I have run across a how-to to upgrade the Manny reaction-arm system with larger discs. If I am reading this correctly, the upgraded system also includes a parking brake!
Anyone have experience with this system?
I have run across a how-to to upgrade the Manny reaction-arm system with larger discs. If I am reading this correctly, the upgraded system also includes a parking brake!
Anyone have experience with this system?
I'm not sure if Albert is still making anything for the Kelsey-Hayes calipers. Give him a call.
Walls:
I'm looking at using 4x8 sheets of lauan. The plan is for panels covered with sunbrella-type fabric (solid colors) with thin padding between the fabric and lauan. I'm looking at using these channels fastened onto the aluminum structural members to support/retain the fabric-covered wood panels...
The "J" channels at the top and bottom of the wall, the "Divider" at the mid-point below the windows. The wall to consist of an upper and a lower panel; complementary fabric colors on the upper and lower panels. Perhaps a layer of double-sided adhesive on the exposed center aluminum with a bit of fabric attached to allow for tucking the edges into the channel when a panel is installed to disguise the channel?
Will the tension on a bowed panel be enough to hold everything in place (the channels would be screwed into position, of course)? Perhaps a strip of butyl tape between the channel and the structure of the coach to act as a thermal barrier?
Update:
The top channel is still there! So, I only need to purchase half of the amount of J-channel. Yay! Also, the upper channel appears to be 1/4" instead of smaller. So, I guess I'll go with 1/4" all the way around, just in case it's too tight otherwise. And, Home Depot sells the aluminum for a better price and color-matched!
I'm looking at using 4x8 sheets of lauan. The plan is for panels covered with sunbrella-type fabric (solid colors) with thin padding between the fabric and lauan. I'm looking at using these channels fastened onto the aluminum structural members to support/retain the fabric-covered wood panels...
The "J" channels at the top and bottom of the wall, the "Divider" at the mid-point below the windows. The wall to consist of an upper and a lower panel; complementary fabric colors on the upper and lower panels. Perhaps a layer of double-sided adhesive on the exposed center aluminum with a bit of fabric attached to allow for tucking the edges into the channel when a panel is installed to disguise the channel?
Will the tension on a bowed panel be enough to hold everything in place (the channels would be screwed into position, of course)? Perhaps a strip of butyl tape between the channel and the structure of the coach to act as a thermal barrier?
Update:
The top channel is still there! So, I only need to purchase half of the amount of J-channel. Yay! Also, the upper channel appears to be 1/4" instead of smaller. So, I guess I'll go with 1/4" all the way around, just in case it's too tight otherwise. And, Home Depot sells the aluminum for a better price and color-matched!
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That seems to be how my parts coach was put together, I believe it was all factory. Channels were riveted down. I think it all worked pretty well until the panel rotted away.
A thermal break isn't a terrible idea, but I'm not sure if the gains would be significant. Maybe? Not a lot of surface area on those rails, so as far as affecting the coach goes, it's likely negligible. The biggest concern would be prevention of condensation. On a cold morning, heating a coach full of humidity (maybe you're cooking pasta too?) will give plenty of cause for condensation. It seems like the window panes would condense first though. Anyway, it can't hurt, just not sure if it would pay off.
Do I simply install an LED compatible flasher even though I have yet to install LED's into the markers/tails? Is an LED flasher going to work with incandescent bulbs until I get around to installing LEDs?
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Yes - I've done this to several older US vehicles.
Original flashers are thermal. Small strip of metal heats up, flexes and opens the circuit, then cools off enough to reconnect. Incandescent bulbs provide the correct amount of resistance. The rate of blinking might change with a burned out bulb or not work with a trailer.
LED-compatible flashers use a timer, work with both types of bulbs.
Multiple little gremlins to kill....
1. The Park/neutral switch on the column...
Where is it located? My parts book lists it, but it isn't shown on the diagram. Do I need to drop the column to access it? I think I can see it on top of the column just behind the dashboard and "above" the turn signal connector, but I'm not certain. I believe the ignition switch is closer to the floor on the column.
My reverse lights are out. The bulbs are good, the fuse is good in the glovebox, and there is power at least after the fuse (no power at the bulb socket). It sounds like I need to check the adjustment of the park/neutral switch. I found the write-up on birdfeeder, but there isn't a good description on where to find the switch.
12/3/2023 UPDATE!!
Located. Tested. Position OK; reverse test light comes on at switch. Now I have to find the issues with the wiring going back to the lights.
2. Dashboard lights (no Paradise in sight)
No lights at night. The 4A small fuse in the glove-box has no power on either side of it. Anything I should check? Or, just disconnect the battery and pull the fuse-block to look for broken connections?
12/3/2023 UPDATE!!
It was the headlight switch. Replaced it with a clone of a GM original and everything worked. Then replaced the bulbs with LEDs for more brightness. The LEDs "dim" a bit with the control, but not much. Good enough!
1. The Park/neutral switch on the column...
Where is it located? My parts book lists it, but it isn't shown on the diagram. Do I need to drop the column to access it? I think I can see it on top of the column just behind the dashboard and "above" the turn signal connector, but I'm not certain. I believe the ignition switch is closer to the floor on the column.
My reverse lights are out. The bulbs are good, the fuse is good in the glovebox, and there is power at least after the fuse (no power at the bulb socket). It sounds like I need to check the adjustment of the park/neutral switch. I found the write-up on birdfeeder, but there isn't a good description on where to find the switch.
12/3/2023 UPDATE!!
Located. Tested. Position OK; reverse test light comes on at switch. Now I have to find the issues with the wiring going back to the lights.
2. Dashboard lights (no Paradise in sight)
No lights at night. The 4A small fuse in the glove-box has no power on either side of it. Anything I should check? Or, just disconnect the battery and pull the fuse-block to look for broken connections?
12/3/2023 UPDATE!!
It was the headlight switch. Replaced it with a clone of a GM original and everything worked. Then replaced the bulbs with LEDs for more brightness. The LEDs "dim" a bit with the control, but not much. Good enough!
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I still haven't flushed the radiator. A PO had installed a temp gauge and it works! Temps are sometimes higher than I like, but acceptable for now (below 200Ā° after extended use in-town).
Other than the amount of coolant that may be required if I totally drain the hydronic water heating system too, is there any reason a regular oil-change shop that offers rad flushing couldn't handle this?
Does the water heating loop involve a heat-exchanger anywhere near the engine? If not, I may install one to close the hydronic loop closer to the engine (less coolant to change in the future).
I believe the heat exchanger is inside the water heater itself. You can probably follow the engine coolant hoses all the way back. If you tried to change over to an external heat exchanger, you'd need another circulation pump and another closed-loop fluid system with a reservoir to get the heat back to the water heater. It's probably easiest to just stick with the stock setup and have the larger coolant capacity.
Poorly installed cedar planks: GONE! (on one wall anyway). Upholstering this weekend. The same fabric will cover the lower door panel too (sunbrella over batting). Yes, I will shave the window opening a bit better before applying the fabric. 
Interior colors; top medium gray, bottom charcoal gray. The floor covering will be addressed in the future; it's functional for now.
Anyone have a source for the trim to go around the front side windows?
I'll do the oposite wall next, then the ceiling. I'm stopping at the mid-point because that's where all of the plumbing starts... Next year?
Interior colors; top medium gray, bottom charcoal gray. The floor covering will be addressed in the future; it's functional for now.
Anyone have a source for the trim to go around the front side windows?
I'll do the oposite wall next, then the ceiling. I'm stopping at the mid-point because that's where all of the plumbing starts... Next year?
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Seating...
As there is no dinette (or anything else) on that side of the main living area, I'm thinking of a jack knife sofa with a center tray. Anyone have any experience with this or something similar?
68" cloth jack knife sofa
As there is no dinette (or anything else) on that side of the main living area, I'm thinking of a jack knife sofa with a center tray. Anyone have any experience with this or something similar?
68" cloth jack knife sofa
Update...Poorly installed cedar planks: GONE! (on one wall anyway). Upholstering this weekend. The same fabric will cover the lower door panel too (sunbrella over batting). Yes, I will shave the window opening a bit better before applying the fabric.
Interior colors; top medium gray, bottom charcoal gray. The floor covering will be addressed in the future; it's functional for now.
Anyone have a source for the trim to go around the front side windows?
I'll do the oposite wall next, then the ceiling. I'm stopping at the mid-point because that's where all of the plumbing starts... Next year?
View attachment 8768
Lower panel upholstered and outlet wired in. Probably finish the upper panel tomorrow.
I noticed no one answered these two questions.
The reverse/neutral-park safety switch is at the bottom of the steering column on the top side.
The fuse for the dash lights gets it's power from the light switch so there is no power to it unless the light switch is On. You could also have issues with the circuit boards on the back of the gauges being oxidized or the connector pins on the circuit boards not making connection. If your light switch is faulty, they were a common part on millions of GM vehicles so are readily available. Do not disassemble the fuse panel. The wire comes from the switch to the fuse panel and back to the dash. It does not pass through the connection block to the outside of the firewall.
A multi-meter or test lamp is your friend to troubleshoot both these problems.
Thank you for the heads-up on the 4A fuse. I'll check that circuit with the headlights on (and just the parking lights as well). Eventually, I'll be replacing the fuse panel with a newer panel that uses the newer plastic fuses anyway. Possibly pull it from a later GM vehicle to keep the function labels the same.
The rheostat internal to the light switch which controls the dash lights intensity can go bad. Sometimes just rotating the light switch knob can remove the oxide buildup and get the dash lights working again. If your headlights are working, then the light switch is getting power.
If the fuse panel is working, I wouldn't dive into replacing it. So unless there is some big issues with it or the wiring harness, I'd let a sleeping dog lie. This from a guy who has spent 50+ years working on vehicle harnesses.
But that's just me.
Here is a list of part numbers I ordered from Rock auto that has both the headlight switch and the neutral safety switch on it. Prices are in Canadian from early last year, but you just need part numbers.
DORMAN | 83211 | Rack and Sector Gear Kit (8708.94.2900) | CAD$ 10.48 | CAD$ 0.00 | 1 | CAD$ 10.48 |
GM GENUINE | D1402B | Ignition Lock Cylinder (8301.20.0000) | CAD$ 21.99 | CAD$ 0.00 | 1 | CAD$ 21.99 |
GM GENUINE | 26026564 | Steering Shaft Universal Joint (8708.94.2900) | CAD$ 10.71 | CAD$ 0.00 | 1 | CAD$ 10.71 |
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS | NS14 | Neutral Safety Switch / Range Sensor (8536.50.9090) | CAD$ 22.58 | CAD$ 0.00 | 1 | CAD$ 22.58 |
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS | DS155T | Headlamp Switch (8536.50.9090) | CAD$ 12.13 | CAD$ 0.00 | 1 | CAD$ 12.13 |
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS | PS155T | Oil Pressure Sender / Switch (8536.50.9090) | CAD$ 18.00 | CAD$ 0.00 | 1 | CAD$ 18.00 |
