diagram of valves & new hoses to by pass the water heater?

DavidDavidson

DavidDavidson

New member
Oct 3, 2016
4
0
1
Hi,
The PO disconnected and drained every water line before the coach was stored. This will be my first winter. I'm not going to repeat that. I will use
anti-freeze. I was told to add two valves and a line to isolate the hot water tank. Does any one have a picture of this? Also, I;ve just read on a
post that the water heater drain value is on the bottom of the tank. In order to replace that old value, is there enough room to get in there with a
wrench and back it out, or do you have the take the tank out?

Tx
David
 
David,
Call our place and have Nick or Gary send you a picture off our web site or
picture of the kit.
I'm in Ohio at the GMC MI convention.

On Mon, Oct 3, 2016 at 6:39 PM, David Davidson
wrote:

> Hi,
> The PO disconnected and drained every water line before the coach was
> stored. This will be my first winter. I'm not going to repeat that. I will
> use
> anti-freeze. I was told to add two valves and a line to isolate the hot
> water tank. Does any one have a picture of this? Also, I;ve just read on a
> post that the water heater drain value is on the bottom of the tank. In
> order to replace that old value, is there enough room to get in there with a
> wrench and back it out, or do you have the take the tank out?
>
> Tx
> David
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
David,
You want to add a HW heater bypass to your Hot Water Heater. You can buy them at any RV supply store in your area or you can order them from camping world.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/quick-turn-by-pass-kit/15717

If you look at more images you can see how it is installed. You should check your HW heater to see if it was already installed.

This kit allows you to bypass the HW tank, drain the HW tank and run the pink stuff just in the water lines. In the spring fill your potable water tank flush the lines free of the antifreeze first then change the valves from bypass to normal operation and fill the HW tank before turning it on.

JR Wright
78 Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion
Michigan

>
> Hi,
> The PO disconnected and drained every water line before the coach was stored. This will be my first winter. I'm not going to repeat that. I will use
> Anti-freeze. I was told to add two valves and a line to isolate the hot water tank. Does any one have a picture of this? Also, I;ve just read on a
> post that the water heater drain value is on the bottom of the tank. In order to replace that old value, is there enough room to get in there with a
> wrench and back it out, or do you have the take the tank out?
>
> Tx
> David
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
J.R.,

I found the lines / fittings / valves that come with the kit have a smaller ID which reduced the flow / pressure.

Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of John Wright
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2016 1:53 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] diagram of valves & new hoses to by pass the water heater?

David,
You want to add a HW heater bypass to your Hot Water Heater. You can buy them at any RV supply store in your area or you can order
them from camping world.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/quick-turn-by-pass-kit/15717

If you look at more images you can see how it is installed. You should check your HW heater to see if it was already installed.

This kit allows you to bypass the HW tank, drain the HW tank and run the pink stuff just in the water lines. In the spring fill
your potable water tank flush the lines free of the antifreeze first then change the valves from bypass to normal operation and fill
the HW tank before turning it on.

JR Wright
78 Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion
Michigan

>
> Hi,
> The PO disconnected and drained every water line before the coach was stored. This will be my first winter. I'm not going to
repeat that. I will use
> Anti-freeze. I was told to add two valves and a line to isolate the hot water tank. Does any one have a picture of this? Also,
I;ve just read on a
> post that the water heater drain value is on the bottom of the tank. In order to replace that old value, is there enough room to
get in there with a
> wrench and back it out, or do you have the take the tank out?
>
> Tx
> David
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
That is an interesting observation about the flow. The valves and hose are absolutely smaller, however I guess i never paid enough attention how
they effected the pressure/flow.

I noticed the one noted above from camping world, has one valve?? Most kits I have seen use 2 valves, one on each the in and out of the water
heater. I would figure that is key for a complete bypass.

this is what i just recommended to a friend here locally on his new to him coach:
https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-P23503LFVP-Water-Heater--Pass/dp/B00HSO57LS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1475588617&sr=8-6&keywords=rv+water+heater+bypass+kit

not only for winterization, but in his case, his waterheater is shot and leaking. So he can install that to bypass the waterheater until he buys a
new one.

--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
 
Rob,
I have not seen a reduction of Hot water flow using the HW heater bypass in the 3 coaches that I have owned or own. I also use a pressure tank

http://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-2-Gallon-Expansion-Pressure-Tank/1038591

Lots of volume with no pressure drop. I used this 2 gal size because I had the room in the piping layout in the stretch under the bed on the drivers side. I did use the small accumulator in the first coach and it was somewhat effective and smoothed out the pump.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/shurflo-accumulator-tank/2290

In the shower I also use a pressure balance water sense shower faucet, similar to what below, where I can set the temperature to protect the wife and myself and all my piping is .5 inch PEX. I also use the Oxygenic's Body Spa Shower Head set, cut actual water usage and is adjustable for flow.

http://www.lowes.com/pd/Moen-Adler-Spot-Resist-Brushed-Nickel-1-Handle-WaterSense-Shower-Faucet-with-Multi-Function-Showerhead/3822839
and
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pumps-water/oxygenics-body-spa.htm

Just what I have done.

Regards,

John

>
> That is an interesting observation about the flow. The valves and hose are absolutely smaller, however I guess i never paid enough attention how
> they effected the pressure/flow.
>
>
> I noticed the one noted above from camping world, has one valve?? Most kits I have seen use 2 valves, one on each the in and out of the water
> heater. I would figure that is key for a complete bypass.
>
> this is what i just recommended to a friend here locally on his new to him coach:
> https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-P23503LFVP-Water-Heater--Pass/dp/B00HSO57LS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1475588617&sr=8-6&keywords=rv+water+heater+bypass+kit
>
> not only for winterization, but in his case, his waterheater is shot and leaking. So he can install that to bypass the waterheater until he buys a
> new one.
>
>
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
another option is to use compressed air to push the water out of the water
lines. If the holding and hot water tank drains are open then the kitchen
and bath fixtures can be purged on both hot and cold circuits by blowing
through the outlet and alternating the controls for hot and cold. This will
purge the lines and the hot water tank. The holding tank can be drained by
opening the drain valve. The hot water tank can be drained as well. A
little antifreeze in the p traps and you're done.
I typically
1.open all available plumbing drains including the hot water and holding
tank drain and wait for the flow to turn to drips
2. set my air pressure regulator to a low pressure of about 25-30psi
3. close the LINE drains if any and leave the storage and heater drains open
4. close all of the plumbing fixtures
5. start from the furthest fixture from the tank which in my case is the
kitchen faucet and wrap a wet rag around the end of my air blow gun to form
a seal with the faucet outlet and blow air with the cold open at the faucet.
6. once I hear the sound of the air going into the lines change to a
constant pitch turn the cold off and open the hot and repeat.
7. close the kitchen faucet and open bath fixtures one at a time and purge
them the same way
8. Leave hot water and holding tank drains open, check that line drains are
closed.

I have not had a freeze failure using this method.

Sully
77 eleganza 2
seattle

On Mon, Oct 3, 2016 at 6:39 PM, David Davidson
wrote:

> Hi,
> The PO disconnected and drained every water line before the coach was
> stored. This will be my first winter. I'm not going to repeat that. I will
> use
> anti-freeze. I was told to add two valves and a line to isolate the hot
> water tank. Does any one have a picture of this? Also, I;ve just read on a
> post that the water heater drain value is on the bottom of the tank. In
> order to replace that old value, is there enough room to get in there with a
> wrench and back it out, or do you have the take the tank out?
>
> Tx
> David
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
David,

You do know that even if you by-pass the water heater, you still have to drain it- Don't you?
If you have a later coach, getting at the potable pump to disconnect it use it to pump antifreeze into the system can be a bear.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
'73 Glacier 23 - Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brake with Applied Control Arms
Now with both true Keyless and remote entry
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
And remember to COMPLETELY depressurize the system before removing the plug on the hot water heater, before you bypass the water heater too...

I got a shower the first time, at least it wasn't hot

----------------------------------------

>
> David,
>
> You do know that even if you by-pass the water heater, you still have to drain it- Don't you?
> If you have a later coach, getting at the potable pump to disconnect it use it to pump antifreeze into the system can be a bear.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> '73 Glacier 23 - Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brake with Applied Control Arms
> Now with both true Keyless and remote entry
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
JR,

Is this the bypass kit you installed?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAbnyEWOGJE

Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of John Wright
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2016 1:23 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] diagram of valves & new hoses to by pass the water heater?

Rob,
I have not seen a reduction of Hot water flow using the HW heater bypass in the 3 coaches that I have owned or own. I also use a
pressure tank

http://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-2-Gallon-Expansion-Pressure-Tank/1038591

Lots of volume with no pressure drop. I used this 2 gal size because I had the room in the piping layout in the stretch under the
bed on the drivers side. I did use the small accumulator in the first coach and it was somewhat effective and smoothed out the
pump.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/shurflo-accumulator-tank/2290

In the shower I also use a pressure balance water sense shower faucet, similar to what below, where I can set the temperature to
protect the wife and myself and all my piping is .5 inch PEX. I also use the Oxygenic's Body Spa Shower Head set, cut actual water
usage and is adjustable for flow.


and
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pumps-water/oxygenics-body-spa.htm

Just what I have done.

Regards,

John

>
> That is an interesting observation about the flow. The valves and hose are absolutely smaller, however I guess i never paid
enough attention how
> they effected the pressure/flow.
>
>
> I noticed the one noted above from camping world, has one valve?? Most kits I have seen use 2 valves, one on each the in and out
of the water
> heater. I would figure that is key for a complete bypass.
>
> this is what i just recommended to a friend here locally on his new to him coach:
>
https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-P23503LFVP-Water-Heater--Pass/dp/B00HSO57LS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1475588617&sr=8-6&keywords=rv+wat
er+heater+bypass+kit
>
> not only for winterization, but in his case, his waterheater is shot and leaking. So he can install that to bypass the
waterheater until he buys a
> new one.
>
>
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
instructions on the 310 for winterizing.

Drain Water from Toilet

1. Turn off water supply to toilet.

2. Remove water supply line from water valve.

3. Place a small container under water valve inlet to catch draining water.

*(continued on next page) *

9

Dometic Gravity-Flush Toilet Winterization and storage

4. Press flush pedal and allow water to completely drain from water valve
and vacuum breaker.

5. Leave water line disconnected until threat of freezing temperature is
past.

sully

77 eleganza 2

seattle

> if you have a sealand/dometic 310 toilet. Blowing out the lines will not
> work. Instructions on that toilet are to use antifreeze or remove toilet
> water valve.
>
>
>
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
And to add to the confusion, you can actually vacuum the water out, via the hot water tank drain valve. Used this method for five winters in Virginia,
never had a problem.
I no longer winterize the water system. Lower Alabama does not have enough freezing weather. Generally, just open the drains.
Tom, MS II
--
1975 GMC Avion
KA4CSG
 
Please expand Tom.

Sully

> And to add to the confusion, you can actually vacuum the water out, via
> the hot water tank drain valve. Used this method for five winters in
> Virginia,
> never had a problem.
> I no longer winterize the water system. Lower Alabama does not have enough
> freezing weather. Generally, just open the drains.
> Tom, MS II
> --
> 1975 GMC Avion
> KA4CSG
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
I use the venturi vacuum device from HF. It uses an air compressor to produce a vacuum. You engineers understand this method. I added fittings so I
could attach hoses between the hot water drain and the input. Attach the air compressor, place the venture outside the coach door, open the hot water
tank drain valve, open the faucets, turn on the compressor, have a cup of Joe, and no more water in the coach. You still need to drain the fresh water
tank. I did add pink antifreeze to the drains.
Tom
--
1975 GMC Avion
KA4CSG
 
The use of a automated valve to control the temperature of the HW tank that has the heater circuit has been available for a number of years from Cinnabar.
I bought one back in 2011 for our original coach, but never installed it. I checked with Atwood and the kit is no longer available.
JR Wright
Michigan

>
> I use the venturi vacuum device from HF. It uses an air compressor to produce a vacuum. You engineers understand this method. I added fittings so I
> could attach hoses between the hot water drain and the input. Attach the air compressor, place the venture outside the coach door, open the hot water
> tank drain valve, open the faucets, turn on the compressor, have a cup of Joe, and no more water in the coach. You still need to drain the fresh water
> tank. I did add pink antifreeze to the drains.
> Tom
> --
> 1975 GMC Avion
> KA4CSG
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
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