cv joint
- Thread starter LARRYT
- Start date
New cars you replace the whole axle. Not on a gmc.
99% of time you just need a new boot and grease.
1% of the time the cv has had damaged boot and been without grease too long, and cv itself is junk. In that case you have some possible options:
1. buy a toronado rebuilt complete axle. And swap the cv joints off the new tornado axle to the motorhome axle.
some have had bad luck and splines are not correct on new axle. Someone had good luck doing this just the other week in california.
2. Find a good axle shop and drop off the old entire axle and they will rebuild it inhouse. Or ship the entire axe to a shop. There is a shop in atlanta i think that has done some gmc cv rebuilds lately.
i would also guess sirum, applied or cinnebar can supply an entire axle.
Sounds like your mechanic is afraid of getting grease on his hands.
and you'll need a set of bolts and washers
https://www.mcmaster.com/91271A644/ and 2 - https://www.mcmaster.com/93711A700/
Important: Use Blue Locktite on the clean NEW bolts torque to 70#.
Oh, and btw, if it's making any kind of noise, swap positions with the two axles, right for left, it's a new lease on life.
C V BOOT ( O E M ) - GMC MOTORHOME
We are a major supplier of GMC Motor Home, RV Parts. Serving GMC MOTORHOME owners everywhere.
www.gmcrvparts.com
https://www.mcmaster.com/91271A644/ and 2 - https://www.mcmaster.com/93711A700/
Important: Use Blue Locktite on the clean NEW bolts torque to 70#.
Oh, and btw, if it's making any kind of noise, swap positions with the two axles, right for left, it's a new lease on life.
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OK Larry,
You are into it now.
First, find another mechanic or become one. (This will have a big payoff in the long run.)
If you are literate, and have an IQ over 80 you may be ahead of most the people you would be paying to do this.
The two joints in the drive axle are replaceable. A boot is replaceable. Replacing a boot is a nasty dirty greasy job that can save you a bunch of money. If you go this route, I or maybe many others can talk you though it.
From reading your prior postings, there is nothing here that you should be afraid of. There is no rocket surgery to these things, it just takes the doing. Having had front wheel drive cars for just a little over 40 years, this is something I have dealt with and it is never fun, but it is always rewarding when you think about the bill you didn't pay.
Buying a replacement drive axle for a Toronado may not work. Many are imported form China and spline is different and the piece as supplied is too short so you can't swap in the actual shaft.
If you are still employed, your availability of travel time will be limited so you may not do much more than 3k next season (as you have no sigfile, I don't really know what your seasons are) and that might mean that you could consider a split boot.
Just about everybody here hates split boots. I know of three on two coaches that have performed very well and sure beat fighting that drive axle. The last was actually replaced with the drive axle installed and that was three years and 7k ago.
When you buy the fasteners from McMaster Carr be sure that you have the correct size 1/2 drive 12 point socket for them.
Whatever, make sure that you have your arms around the whole project. These coaches are not an appliance car like a modern thing. They require attention and maintenance. If you treat them well, they will reward you.
Matt
You are into it now.
First, find another mechanic or become one. (This will have a big payoff in the long run.)
If you are literate, and have an IQ over 80 you may be ahead of most the people you would be paying to do this.
The two joints in the drive axle are replaceable. A boot is replaceable. Replacing a boot is a nasty dirty greasy job that can save you a bunch of money. If you go this route, I or maybe many others can talk you though it.
From reading your prior postings, there is nothing here that you should be afraid of. There is no rocket surgery to these things, it just takes the doing. Having had front wheel drive cars for just a little over 40 years, this is something I have dealt with and it is never fun, but it is always rewarding when you think about the bill you didn't pay.
Buying a replacement drive axle for a Toronado may not work. Many are imported form China and spline is different and the piece as supplied is too short so you can't swap in the actual shaft.
If you are still employed, your availability of travel time will be limited so you may not do much more than 3k next season (as you have no sigfile, I don't really know what your seasons are) and that might mean that you could consider a split boot.
Just about everybody here hates split boots. I know of three on two coaches that have performed very well and sure beat fighting that drive axle. The last was actually replaced with the drive axle installed and that was three years and 7k ago.
When you buy the fasteners from McMaster Carr be sure that you have the correct size 1/2 drive 12 point socket for them.
Whatever, make sure that you have your arms around the whole project. These coaches are not an appliance car like a modern thing. They require attention and maintenance. If you treat them well, they will reward you.
Matt
Jim Bounds mentioned on the phone the other day that someone was making spacers to make new Toronado half shafts work with the GMC's. Old style or new part with non-oem splines; wouldn't matter anymore . Just use the whole new part. I'm not sure who is doing it or where to get them but it might be worth looking into. Sure would be nice to grab a new part off the shelf and install it without having to do all the fiddling around with the old shaft.
Ok u all ! one more time upon inspection the old cv boot looks brand new ! although almost cut in half in the deep groove of the boot.. is it possible that when i had my brake lines, proportion valve replaced in April that some brake fluid was spilled on the boot and caused a premature failure ?? thanks for your input... larry xpb 78/455
Larry,
It is unlikely that the boot was damaged by any brake fluid. You say that you have had the coach 6 months? That could well be the OE boot and if it is, it was due to crack a few years back.
If you are not retired, then your time in the coach is limited (News Flash?), and I would suggest that you seriously consider a "split boot" or "speedy boot". As much as the purists hate these, they serve a real purpose. A GMC friend now has two and the older has over 10K and three (at least) years on it. They can be installed with little or no collateral dis-assembly. Where ever you are working, put down a tarp so you have a chance to find the little tiny screws and nuts when you drop them.
If you are retired and in search of experience and adventure, then know that both drive axles can be removed also with no further dis-assembly. It is a puzzle to get them clear of the coach and you will have to replace the inboard fasterners as they get pulled to very near their limit. Removing the drive axle makes replacing the boot a much simpler but no less greasy operation.
Matt
It is unlikely that the boot was damaged by any brake fluid. You say that you have had the coach 6 months? That could well be the OE boot and if it is, it was due to crack a few years back.
If you are not retired, then your time in the coach is limited (News Flash?), and I would suggest that you seriously consider a "split boot" or "speedy boot". As much as the purists hate these, they serve a real purpose. A GMC friend now has two and the older has over 10K and three (at least) years on it. They can be installed with little or no collateral dis-assembly. Where ever you are working, put down a tarp so you have a chance to find the little tiny screws and nuts when you drop them.
If you are retired and in search of experience and adventure, then know that both drive axles can be removed also with no further dis-assembly. It is a puzzle to get them clear of the coach and you will have to replace the inboard fasterners as they get pulled to very near their limit. Removing the drive axle makes replacing the boot a much simpler but no less greasy operation.
Matt
Matt thank you for your time .in a detailed explanation.. i am maybe a little to old to do myself .. i have a mechanic who worked on my 76 pb 10 years back he also bought it from me when it was t boned and took it apart and sold parts he knows GMC"s and is replacing the boot as we speak thanks again larry 78/455 XPB
update u all.. receipts indicate boots replaced in 2008. but who ever torn the shocks off their metal bushings needing new shocks.. replaced old kyb air adjust with new ones.. added Caspro 's to the rear and new boots both sides.. (had to pospone first real trip!) mechanic say's boot,s were CHINA rubber did not last long 12 years and 20 k miles. thought it handled OK before What a difference now! larry 78/455 xpb
Thought I'd revive this thread as I'm trying to learn about CV boots.
I just put a Dorman grey boot (614-004) on my driver's side. Someone mentioned there could be rubbing on the shock and the OE style is better for this problem. The OE style MOOG 2456 is no longer available.
Does this matter? I haven't read about rubbing or ripping boots on the shock anywhere else? Should I use the other Dorman grey boot I already have, or wait and order a OE style boot from Applied? From what I've read online they had some previously that didn't last, but the new ones are better rubber and good again.
I just put a Dorman grey boot (614-004) on my driver's side. Someone mentioned there could be rubbing on the shock and the OE style is better for this problem. The OE style MOOG 2456 is no longer available.
Does this matter? I haven't read about rubbing or ripping boots on the shock anywhere else? Should I use the other Dorman grey boot I already have, or wait and order a OE style boot from Applied? From what I've read online they had some previously that didn't last, but the new ones are better rubber and good again.
I mentioned the rubbing earlier. I read about it on the Facebook page from a guy who generally knows what he's talking about. I think if you jack up the front end and turn the wheel lock to lock while watching for interference on the shock, you'll know everything you need.
I personally haven't bothered because I'm installing a one ton front end soon.
