crimp vs solder

[Ron Clark]

Kinda hard to crimp to a circuit board or ceramic strip, isn't it, Jim?
Don't remember ever seeing a crimp in my 30 + years at Tektronix. Guess
TEK had it right...for them, anyway.
ronc

 

[Stu Rasmussen]

Au contraire!

Ceramic strips (which were only used in 'legacy products' when I got
hired in 1968) used solder (2% silver)

Circuit board components were either hand or flow soldered with tin/lead
solder

But the board interconnects (nicknamed 'harmonica connectors') were all
crimped, not soldered.

Ah, those were the 'good old days'

Stu

And when I got hired, even though I thought myself a pretty fair hand at
soldering, I spent a week on the production line learning how to solder
the Tek way. Ayup!

>
> Kinda hard to crimp to a circuit board or ceramic strip, isn't it, Jim?
> Don't remember ever seeing a crimp in my 30 + years at Tektronix. Guess
> TEK had it right...for them, anyway.
> ronc
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>

 

[Ron Clark]

Yep, that's me...Legacy products
500 series scopes & plug-ins till my left arm went to heck from tweaking
vertical plug-ins. then ckt boards for a while, then the lay-offs
started.



On Fri, 27 Mar 2020 11:50:12 -0700 Stu Rasmussen via Gmclist

>
> Au contraire!
>
> Ceramic strips (which were only used in 'legacy products' when I got
>
> hired in 1968) used solder (2% silver)
>
> Circuit board components were either hand or flow soldered with
> tin/lead
> solder
>
> But the board interconnects (nicknamed 'harmonica connectors') were
> all
> crimped, not soldered.
>
> Ah, those were the 'good old days'
>
> Stu
>
> And when I got hired, even though I thought myself a pretty fair
> hand at
> soldering, I spent a week on the production line learning how to
> solder
> the Tek way. Ayup!
>
>

> >
> > Kinda hard to crimp to a circuit board or ceramic strip, isn't it,
> Jim?
> > Don't remember ever seeing a crimp in my 30 + years at Tektronix.
> Guess
> > TEK had it right...for them, anyway.
> > ronc
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

 

[Ernest Dankert]

I used to be a solder guy, and was continually chastised by an ex army A+P chopper guy who said crimp was the standard. I had too many crimp fail to
convert; that is until I got a new crimping tool. I use a Southwire crimp/strip tool and it made all the difference in the world. Now use crimp and
heat shrink ends and have zero failures.
--
1977 Eleganza II
Ogden NY

 

[Matt Colie]

> Hey Ron. A vehicle running down the road will see a lot more abuse than a test instrument. Most of what I've read about soldered joints in
> vehicles speak to the solder creating a hard transition to an inflexible connection and with vibration the wire eventually gets work hardened and
> breaks.
>
> I experienced a different type of soldered connection failure. I was chasing an intermittent non-start situation that had no rhyme or reason,
> might go months without the problem showing up. Finally happened when I went to start after filling up. Opened the front hatch and the battery
> cable end was no longer in contact with the terminal lug, and it had been a soldered connection.
>
> I think the connection was borderline so it sometimes wouldn't start, then the resistance would heat up the solder enough for it to flow and
> improve the connection temporarily. Over time the cable worked its way out of the terminal lug.
>
> Richard

Richard,

That has become common these days and it is not the result of solder directly. What used to happen is the stranded cable was "pot tinned" where the
end of the cable was dipped for a given time in a solder pot. This was then sent off to have the lead connector molded on to it. When this was done
correctly and with both alloys correct, it was a very capable and durable part.

Unfortunately, with the OSHA and EPA all over lead operations (a well deserved situation), all of that got moved. First it went to Mexico and now
Pacific Rim.

The high tin alloy that tins copper best is expensive and has not been continued. The alloy for the post clamp has also been changed and this means a
lower temperature for the clamp molding and that means less bonding of the cable to the clamp. I have several times seen this so bad that the cable
could be removed from the clamp with little effort. (This does make for a puzzling "No Crank".)

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[jim kanomata1]

I use to believe all connections should be soldered till couple of times
the wire fatigued next to it as the rigid solder contributed to flexing
right next to it and fatigued and broke and had heck of a time finding the
issue.
A good crimp is only as good as weather seal outside area.
There are lot of heat shrink seals to use.

On Sat, Mar 28, 2020 at 8:47 AM Matt Colie via Gmclist <

> > Hey Ron. A vehicle running down the road will see a lot more abuse than
> a test instrument. Most of what I've read about soldered joints in
> > vehicles speak to the solder creating a hard transition to an inflexible
> connection and with vibration the wire eventually gets work hardened and
> > breaks.
> >
> > I experienced a different type of soldered connection failure. I was
> chasing an intermittent non-start situation that had no rhyme or reason,
> > might go months without the problem showing up. Finally happened when I
> went to start after filling up. Opened the front hatch and the battery
> > cable end was no longer in contact with the terminal lug, and it had
> been a soldered connection.
> >
> > I think the connection was borderline so it sometimes wouldn't start,
> then the resistance would heat up the solder enough for it to flow and
> > improve the connection temporarily. Over time the cable worked its way
> out of the terminal lug.
> >
> > Richard
>
> Richard,
>
> That has become common these days and it is not the result of solder
> directly. What used to happen is the stranded cable was "pot tinned" where
> the
> end of the cable was dipped for a given time in a solder pot. This was
> then sent off to have the lead connector molded on to it. When this was
> done
> correctly and with both alloys correct, it was a very capable and durable
> part.
>
> Unfortunately, with the OSHA and EPA all over lead operations (a well
> deserved situation), all of that got moved. First it went to Mexico and now
> Pacific Rim.
>
> The high tin alloy that tins copper best is expensive and has not been
> continued. The alloy for the post clamp has also been changed and this
> means a
> lower temperature for the clamp molding and that means less bonding of
> the cable to the clamp. I have several times seen this so bad that the
> cable
> could be removed from the clamp with little effort. (This does make for a
> puzzling "No Crank".)
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.gmcrvparts.com
1-800-752-7502

 

[richshoop]

ANY crimp connection made with one of those stamped steel stripper/crimper is a joke and will fail very soon.

>
>
> I used to be a solder guy, and was continually chastised by an ex army A+P chopper guy who said crimp was the standard. I had too many crimp fail to
> convert; that is until I got a new crimping tool. I use a Southwire crimp/strip tool and it made all the difference in the world. Now use crimp and
> heat shrink ends and have zero failures.
> --
> 1977 Eleganza II
> Ogden NY
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[adolph santorine]

I’ve been using a Sta-Kon crimping tool for a while, including their terminals.

The tool makes a three part crimp that is utterly reliable.

I’m sticking with their terminals, too. They are more money. Worth it, too.

Dolph

DE AD0LF

Wheeling, West Virginia

1977 26’ ex-PalmBeach
Howell EFI & EBL, Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission

“The Aluminum and Fiberglass Mistress"

>
> ANY crimp connection made with one of those stamped steel stripper/crimper is a joke and will fail very soon.

>>
>>
>> I used to be a solder guy, and was continually chastised by an ex army A+P chopper guy who said crimp was the standard. I had too many crimp fail to
>> convert; that is until I got a new crimping tool. I use a Southwire crimp/strip tool and it made all the difference in the world. Now use crimp and
>> heat shrink ends and have zero failures.
>> --
>> 1977 Eleganza II
>> Ogden NY
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[richshoop]

Sta-kon is a very reliable supplier. Note that the lug material gets thicker as the lug size change from Red to Blue to Yellow.
3M is also a very good supplier.

>
>
> I’ve been using a Sta-Kon crimping tool. Never for a while, including their terminals.
>
> The tool makes a three part crimp that is utterly reliable.
>
> I’m sticking with their terminals, too. They are more money. Worth it, too.
>
>
> Dolph
>
> DE AD0LF
>
> Wheeling, West Virginia
>
> 1977 26’ ex-PalmBeach
> Howell EFI & EBL, Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission
>
> “The Aluminum and Fiberglass Mistress"
>

> >
> > ANY crimp connection made with one of those stamped steel stripper/crimper is a joke and will fail very soon.

> >>
> >>
> >> I used to be a solder guy, and was continually chastised by an ex army A+P chopper guy who said crimp was the standard. I had too many crimp fail to
> >> convert; that is until I got a new crimping tool. I use a Southwire crimp/strip tool and it made all the difference in the world. Now use crimp and
> >> heat shrink ends and have zero failures.
> >> --
> >> 1977 Eleganza II
> >> Ogden NY
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[powwerjon]

Hi all,
Having been in the repair, replacement and design of wiring of control
system for 40+ years I thought I might get in with my 2 cents on crimping
VS soldering, crimping mostly!

First lets talk about crimping tools. The first pic shows a series of
combo tools that crimp poorly, strip wire marginally and actually can be
used to shorten small bolts and machine screws.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/general-pictures/p61255-crimping-tools.html

The next group of pics shows a crimper from Harbor Freight that works
really well.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/general-pictures/p61250-crimping-tools.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/general-pictures/p61251-crimping-tools.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/ratcheting-crimping-tool-63708.html

And for HD wire crimping I have used this and I have found it ideal on 8 ga
and larger wires.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html

For general and all purpose crimping I have used the following Thomas-Betts
for decades and it is absolutly the best.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/general-pictures/p61248-crimping-tools.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/general-pictures/p61249-crimping-tools.html

This is a crimper sold bay HF that is just OK!
https://www.harborfreight.com/9-12-in-wire-crimping-tool-63989.html

Lets talk wire strippers. I have used this one for many years.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/general-pictures/p61252-crimping-tools.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/general-pictures/p61253-crimping-tools.html

Here is on that is sold by HF that also works.
https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-wire-stripper-and-cutter-56266.html

For smaller wires 16 thru 22 ga i like this Thomas-Betts auto stripper, but
it is too expensive if your not doing a fair amount of wiring.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/general-pictures/p61260-crimping-tools.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/general-pictures/p61261-crimping-tools.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/general-pictures/p61262-crimping-tools.html

I also have a wire striping knife which has a reverse point in the end of
the blade and is not overly sharp. It is a safety blade and it locks open.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/general-pictures/p61254-crimping-tools.html

So in the end this is what use.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/general-pictures/p61247-crimping-tools.html

I have done the soldering of wires too and find it does have a place in
wire terminations. Wiring to circuit and circuit board repair. Circuit
board in the 60's were mostly hand soldered. Soldering can be difficult is
your just an occasional solder user. When I went thru USAF electronics
tech school in 1967 we had a week of how to solder correctly. As we say
with most things practice makes perfect.

J.R. Wright
GMC Great Laker
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMC Eastern States
GMCMHI
TZE Zone Restorations
78 Buskirk Custom 29.5' Stretch
75 Avion (Under going Frame up Restoration)

On Sat, Mar 28, 2020 at 5:03 PM Dolph Santorine via Gmclist <

> I’ve been using a Sta-Kon crimping tool for a while, including their
> terminals.
>
> The tool makes a three part crimp that is utterly reliable.
>
> I’m sticking with their terminals, too. They are more money. Worth it, too.
>
>
> Dolph
>
> DE AD0LF
>
> Wheeling, West Virginia
>
> 1977 26’ ex-PalmBeach
> Howell EFI & EBL, Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission
>
> “The Aluminum and Fiberglass Mistress"
>
> > On Mar 28, 2020, at 7:29 PM, RICHARD/MARLI SHOOP via Gmclist <

> >
> > ANY crimp connection made with one of those stamped steel
> stripper/crimper is a joke and will fail very soon.
> >> On March 28, 2020 at 8:36 AM Ernest Dankert via Gmclist <

> >>
> >>
> >> I used to be a solder guy, and was continually chastised by an ex army
> A+P chopper guy who said crimp was the standard. I had too many crimp fail
> to
> >> convert; that is until I got a new crimping tool. I use a Southwire
> crimp/strip tool and it made all the difference in the world. Now use crimp
> and
> >> heat shrink ends and have zero failures.
> >> --
> >> 1977 Eleganza II
> >> Ogden NY
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[johnny]

J.R. the top tool in the picture is a wire stripper. It should be calibrated regularly to preclude nicking the wire by closing too far. If you're
crimping things with it you're probably making a mistake. Not to run down an excellent post, but for those who aren't familiar with the right tools
to use, please don't try to crimp something with that one

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell

 

[RF_Burns]

So for my morning reading with my coffee I googled "crimping vs soldering wire terminals" to see if I could find some hard info on this.

The top search result was from Monroe Engineering LLC Inc.
https://monroeengineering.com/blog/crimping-vs-soldering-cable-connectors-which-is-best/

Third paragraph reads (after describing crimping):
"What Is Soldering?

Soldering, on the other hand, is a process that involves joining two or more objects using heated metal known as solder. Unlike with welding, the
objects -- which in this case is a cable and a connector -- is not heated. Rather, soldering only heats up the filler metal. As the filler metal, the
solder, heats up, it's applied between the wire and the connector. Once it cools, the solder hardens, thus joining the cable to the connector."

For the last 50 some years I've been heating the parts to be soldered and thought I was pretty good at soldering... now I find out I've been doing it
wrong! (sarcasm alert)

This company makes wiring harnesses and cable assemblies so I hope they only crimp.

But again, I'm not an Engineer so I could be all wrong.

BTW, When I was doing a higher current connection, I would crimp the connection as normal, but also solder were the end of the wire came through the
terminal. I figured this gave me a seal to the exposed strands but also did not have the solder wicking up the wire strands causing the strain relief
issues. JWID.

--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that

 

[adolph santorine]

Is this the oil discussion?

Dolph

DE AD0LF

Wheeling, West Virginia

1977 26’ ex-PalmBeach
Howell EFI & EBL, Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission

“The Aluminum and Fiberglass Mistress"

>
> So for my morning reading with my coffee I googled "crimping vs soldering wire terminals" to see if I could find some hard info on this.
>
> The top search result was from Monroe Engineering LLC Inc.
> https://monroeengineering.com/blog/crimping-vs-soldering-cable-connectors-which-is-best/
>
> Third paragraph reads (after describing crimping):
> "What Is Soldering?
>
> Soldering, on the other hand, is a process that involves joining two or more objects using heated metal known as solder. Unlike with welding, the
> objects -- which in this case is a cable and a connector -- is not heated. Rather, soldering only heats up the filler metal. As the filler metal, the
> solder, heats up, it's applied between the wire and the connector. Once it cools, the solder hardens, thus joining the cable to the connector."
>
> For the last 50 some years I've been heating the parts to be soldered and thought I was pretty good at soldering... now I find out I've been doing it
> wrong! (sarcasm alert)
>
> This company makes wiring harnesses and cable assemblies so I hope they only crimp.
>
> But again, I'm not an Engineer so I could be all wrong.
>
> BTW, When I was doing a higher current connection, I would crimp the connection as normal, but also solder were the end of the wire came through the
> terminal. I figured this gave me a seal to the exposed strands but also did not have the solder wicking up the wire strands causing the strain relief
> issues. JWID.
>
> --
> Bruce Hislop
> ON Canada
> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
> My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[Ken B]

> Is this the oil discussion?
>
>
> Dolph
>
> DE AD0LF

Yes it is. Are you recommending using synthetic or dino core solder? What weight?
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

 

[Ron Clark]

I was told to heat the objects to be soldered enough to melt the solder,
which would then flow between the objects to join them. Remove heat, let
the junction cool a bit, then on to the next. Never heat the solder and
let it flow onto the objects.

Ronc

On Sun, 29 Mar 2020 06:48:40 -0600 Bruce Hislop via Gmclist

> So for my morning reading with my coffee I googled "crimping vs
> soldering wire terminals" to see if I could find some hard info on
> this.
>
> The top search result was from Monroe Engineering LLC Inc.
>
https://monroeengineering.com/blog/crimping-vs-soldering-cable-connectors
-which-is-best/
>
> Third paragraph reads (after describing crimping):
> "What Is Soldering?
>
> Soldering, on the other hand, is a process that involves joining two
> or more objects using heated metal known as solder. Unlike with
> welding, the
> objects -- which in this case is a cable and a connector -- is not
> heated. Rather, soldering only heats up the filler metal. As the
> filler metal, the
> solder, heats up, it's applied between the wire and the connector.
> Once it cools, the solder hardens, thus joining the cable to the
> connector."
>
> For the last 50 some years I've been heating the parts to be
> soldered and thought I was pretty good at soldering... now I find
> out I've been doing it
> wrong! (sarcasm alert)
>
> This company makes wiring harnesses and cable assemblies so I hope
> they only crimp.
>
> But again, I'm not an Engineer so I could be all wrong.
>
> BTW, When I was doing a higher current connection, I would crimp the
> connection as normal, but also solder were the end of the wire came
> through the
> terminal. I figured this gave me a seal to the exposed strands but
> also did not have the solder wicking up the wire strands causing the
> strain relief
> issues. JWID.
>
> --
> Bruce Hislop
> ON Canada
> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
> My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> .org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[Jim Hupy]

Yep, that's the TEK way for sure. 70/30 Eutectic solder only. EVERYTHING
SCRUPULOUSLY CLEANED. RESIN CORE or solid, but using resin flux on every
joint. SOLDERING IRONS SHARPENED AND PROPERLY TINNED. ALWAYS, ALWAYS
meticulously cleaned up with alcohol, post soldering. All loose ends short
clipped. It better look good, as well as be electrically and mechanically
sound. Been there, done that, still do.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Sun, Mar 29, 2020, 9:38 AM rallymaster--- via Gmclist <

> I was told to heat the objects to be soldered enough to melt the solder,
> which would then flow between the objects to join them. Remove heat, let
> the junction cool a bit, then on to the next. Never heat the solder and
> let it flow onto the objects.
>
> Ronc
>
> On Sun, 29 Mar 2020 06:48:40 -0600 Bruce Hislop via Gmclist

> > So for my morning reading with my coffee I googled "crimping vs
> > soldering wire terminals" to see if I could find some hard info on
> > this.
> >
> > The top search result was from Monroe Engineering LLC Inc.
> >
> https://monroeengineering.com/blog/crimping-vs-soldering-cable-connectors
> -which-is-best/
> https://monroeengineering.com/blog/crimping-vs-soldering-cable-connectors-which-is-best/
> >
> > Third paragraph reads (after describing crimping):
> > "What Is Soldering?
> >
> > Soldering, on the other hand, is a process that involves joining two
> > or more objects using heated metal known as solder. Unlike with
> > welding, the
> > objects -- which in this case is a cable and a connector -- is not
> > heated. Rather, soldering only heats up the filler metal. As the
> > filler metal, the
> > solder, heats up, it's applied between the wire and the connector.
> > Once it cools, the solder hardens, thus joining the cable to the
> > connector."
> >
> > For the last 50 some years I've been heating the parts to be
> > soldered and thought I was pretty good at soldering... now I find
> > out I've been doing it
> > wrong! (sarcasm alert)
> >
> > This company makes wiring harnesses and cable assemblies so I hope
> > they only crimp.
> >
> > But again, I'm not an Engineer so I could be all wrong.
> >
> > BTW, When I was doing a higher current connection, I would crimp the
> > connection as normal, but also solder were the end of the wire came
> > through the
> > terminal. I figured this gave me a seal to the exposed strands but
> > also did not have the solder wicking up the wire strands causing the
> > strain relief
> > issues. JWID.
> >
> > --
> > Bruce Hislop
> > ON Canada
> > 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
> > http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
> > My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > .org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[d c *mac* macdonald]

70/30 is NOT eutectic. Eutectic (lowest melting point alloy) is 63/37 and is what I use as it heats the device and flows the solder fastest.

73 de Mac, K2GKK/5
Since 30 Nov 1953
Oklahoma City, OK
USAF, Retired ('61-'81)
FAA, Retired ('94-'10)
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of James Hupy via Gmclist
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2020 11:53
To: gmclist
Cc: James Hupy
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] crimp vs solder

Yep, that's the TEK way for sure. 70/30 Eutectic solder only. EVERYTHING
SCRUPULOUSLY CLEANED. RESIN CORE or solid, but using resin flux on every
joint. SOLDERING IRONS SHARPENED AND PROPERLY TINNED. ALWAYS, ALWAYS
meticulously cleaned up with alcohol, post soldering. All loose ends short
clipped. It better look good, as well as be electrically and mechanically
sound. Been there, done that, still do.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Sun, Mar 29, 2020, 9:38 AM rallymaster--- via Gmclist <

> I was told to heat the objects to be soldered enough to melt the solder,
> which would then flow between the objects to join them. Remove heat, let
> the junction cool a bit, then on to the next. Never heat the solder and
> let it flow onto the objects.
>
> Ronc

 

[powwerjon]

Johnny,
You apparently did NOT READ the caption under the picture. Suggest that
you go back and read the caption under the picture! Scroll down just a
little bit and you might be surprised. Sometimes extra information is
available in the captions such as model numbers, explainations and part
numbers.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/general-pictures/p61247-crimping-tools.html

J.R. Wright
GMC Great Laker
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMC Eastern States
GMCMHI
TZE Zone Restorations
78 Buskirk Custom 29.5' Stretch
75 Avion (Under going Frame up Restoration)

On Sun, Mar 29, 2020 at 5:35 AM Johnny Bridges via Gmclist <

> J.R. the top tool in the picture is a wire stripper. It should be
> calibrated regularly to preclude nicking the wire by closing too far. If
> you're
> crimping things with it you're probably making a mistake. Not to run down
> an excellent post, but for those who aren't familiar with the right tools
> to use, please don't try to crimp something with that one
>
> --johnny
> --
> Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
> in hell
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

 

[johnny]

I stopped at 'crimping tools' NASA standard was a heat stripping tool, but you could use the one shown if you calibrated it every shift. I
haven't seen a heat stripper since that class.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell

 

[slc]

Everyone will have their favorite method.

I have had crimped ends break off, rather exciting when the brake lights stopped working.

I have improved on soldering when vibration and possible movement is involved. Actually, there should never
be any movement or vibration in wiring, but it happens.

You need to do a solid solder on the end, fold over with about an inch of wire and tape down. This makes the
solder joint so the wire won't move.

The crimps need to be done a certain way so the wire will become one from the pressure, but if done wrong it becomes
brittle.

Stay away from those crimps that cut into the insulation, they cut the wires too. over time the wire will fail where the wires were cut. I have
first hand experience on this one where the dealership installed a cruise. It took a few years but it failed at a very bad time. I think they are
called Scotch fastners, but you will recognize them, blue with a blade that you squeeze down, it cuts down on the wire trough the insulation, and some
of the wires, weakening the wire. It will break, I do not recommend them.

If you have those fastners, replace them as soon as possible with your choice of solder or crimp.
--
GatsbysCruise. \
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