City Water Connection

S

scott nutter1

New member
Jan 5, 2015
729
0
0
I would fix the city water leak. I couldn’t operate without it. I only use the 12volt pump while on the road or as a back up. But at the same time I
always check my plumbing and always use a pressure regulator. Just my opinion and what works best for me.
Scott.
--
Scott Nutter
1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi. Alex Ferrera
installed MSD Atomic EFI
Houston, Texas
 
Me too, Scott. I've been RVing, with intermittent hiatus periods, since
'57. Never had a really serious leak inside any trailer nor motorhome.
Maybe I'm just more cautious about watching and repairing plumbing than
some. When I bought and gutted the GMC in '98, ALL the plumbing came out
and was replaced, but I'm still using some of the original tubing and
fittings.

Ken H.

On Sun, Aug 16, 2020 at 3:56 PM Scott Nutter via Gmclist <

> I would fix the city water leak. I couldn’t operate without it. I only use
> the 12volt pump while on the road or as a back up. But at the same time I
> always check my plumbing and always use a pressure regulator. Just my
> opinion and what works best for me.
> Scott.
> --
> Scott Nutter
> 1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final
> drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi. Alex Ferrera
> installed MSD Atomic EFI
> Houston, Texas
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
My first RV, an Open Road 10 1/2 foot pickup camper, had a 20 gallon
potable water tank, with a manually operated pump. Plumbing was dead
simple. Holding tank was outside the camper on the ground. Connected via a
flex hose. Easy to fix. Then came a tow behind. Battery operated water
pump, no city water connections. Simple, had a propane hot water heater and
a 25 gallon potable tank. A bit more complex, but still simple enough. Next
came a 25 foot chassis built motorhome on a Dodge Van Chassis. City water,
12 volt pump, propane hot water heater, holding tanks, 30 gallon potable
water tank, filled from either the city water or a separate hose. Pressure
operated switch worked sometimes, sometimes not. P.O.S. offshore made.
Would sometimes divert like it was supposed to and fill the potable tank,
sometimes it would pressurize the city water side, and leave the potable
tank empty. Tried a couple of times to fix it. Gave up and never used the
city water side after that. Decided right then to never use the city water
hookup on any RV that I owned. That decision has served me well for many
years. The battery pumps are as reliable as an anvil. No regrets.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Sun, Aug 16, 2020, 1:17 PM Ken Henderson via Gmclist <

> Me too, Scott. I've been RVing, with intermittent hiatus periods, since
> '57. Never had a really serious leak inside any trailer nor motorhome.
> Maybe I'm just more cautious about watching and repairing plumbing than
> some. When I bought and gutted the GMC in '98, ALL the plumbing came out
> and was replaced, but I'm still using some of the original tubing and
> fittings.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 16, 2020 at 3:56 PM Scott Nutter via Gmclist <

>
> > I would fix the city water leak. I couldn’t operate without it. I only
> use
> > the 12volt pump while on the road or as a back up. But at the same time I
> > always check my plumbing and always use a pressure regulator. Just my
> > opinion and what works best for me.
> > Scott.
> > --
> > Scott Nutter
> > 1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21
> final
> > drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi. Alex Ferrera
> > installed MSD Atomic EFI
> > Houston, Texas
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
There is an access panel in the back of the closet (wardrobe) where you can get access to the city water connection. Just take the back panel off and
it's right there.
--
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles,
Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
 
I'm with JimH... I always run off the fresh-water tank and pump.

With the city water you could have one or more tiny slow drips for years and not know it until you discover rotted wood.

With the tank and pump, if you hear the pump randomly run for a few seconds, that's your clue you have a leak somewhere... now go troubleshoot and fix
it!

--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
 
Using the tank replaces the old water with new as you use and then refill it with fresh. That’s good.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
At this point I just want to unhook the city connection and try out the 12v pump and potable tank. I an hoping when I turn on the pump, no water
charges the city connection line!!!! As soon as I feel I have an "all clear", it's back to the ONAN to try to figure my problem there of why it will
not start after replacing fuel line, rebuilding carb, new points/condenser. Was purring like a kitten until fuel line was discovered leaking and being
replaced.
--
Samuel Ferguson
Pittsfield, Illinois
(West Central Illinois)
1976 GMC Palm Beach
 
> At this point I just want to unhook the city connection and try out the 12v pump and potable tank. I an hoping when I turn on the pump, no water
> charges the city connection line!!!! As soon as I feel I have an "all clear", it's back to the ONAN to try to figure my problem there of why it will
> not start after replacing fuel line, rebuilding carb, new points/condenser. Was purring like a kitten until fuel line was discovered leaking and
> being replaced.

Sam,

If I am reading this correctly, when hooked a hose up to the city water connection, you ended up with water on the floor.

I am assuming you mean the city water connection that has a garden hose fitting. If that is not correct then the rest of what I right will be equally
wrong.
If nothing has been cobbled together too badly, that fitting where the city water hose threads in is also a check valve. The early coaches actually
had a backflow preventor there. This is different than a check valve in that it opens an air space when the pressure is the wrong way. I do not
believe that there are any surviving examples of the RV version.

The coach water pump and the city water connection both pressure feed the same plumbing, so if you got a leak with city water, you will have one when
the pump feeds the system. So, I strongly suggest that if you plan to use the potable water system for anything that you track down that leak first.
If the city water feed check valve is bad, that will be very obvious as soon as the pump is powered up.

There is a possibility of confusion here. Some of the coaches I have seen have a single hose thread fitting as I describe above that is usually on
the vehicle left in the area of the power cord box. Many have what I call an atmospheric fill over the propane tank. Some of these have the same
water fill that is common to trailers and such it was a big lump with a top that could b e unscrewed so water could be poured in. Many also had a hose
fitting and check valve and then there were the version that had a pressure gauge in the cap and a schrader valve so the water tank could be
pressurized. I hope we aren't including any of them. By the way, all of those that I ever saw was plated pot metal and once a few years old, opening
them was just not going to happen.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Matt,
I dont have any of the last portion you mentioned. The city water connection is located in the shore line box. After removing a few screws, I can get
the connection partially through the hole, but not enough to remove the line fitting on the bottom. I can see the back of the city water connection,
which is approximately 2 inches in diameter. The cylinder section appears to gave a gasket approximately 1/4 of the way from what appears to be a cap
fastened with 4 screws. Would this be the "check valve"?

Sam
--
Samuel Ferguson
Pittsfield, Illinois
(West Central Illinois)
1976 GMC Palm Beach
 
> Matt,
> I dont have any of the last portion you mentioned. The city water connection is located in the shore line box. After removing a few screws, I can
> get the connection partially through the hole, but not enough to remove the line fitting on the bottom. I can see the back of the city water
> connection, which is approximately 2 inches in diameter. The cylinder section appears to gave a gasket approximately 1/4 of the way from what
> appears to be a cap fastened with 4 screws. Would this be the "check valve"?
> Sam

Sam,

What you are describing is a pretty regular city water pressure connection. But, you may well have one of the very few surviving examples of the
original backflow preventors. That may also be your problem. They must have all been replaced for a reason.

That last paragraph is about a way to fill the potable tank without any direct and pressure capable connection to the potable tank.

If you go into the closet, and look for the bumped out wall section, you will find that by removing about a dozen screws you can open that up and get
at the back side. Then you will know what you need to get to attach the new city water inlet that you are going to buy to the existing water line
that you still need. My coach is all flared or sweat copper and I don't know what year they changed to other materials, so I can't help you there.

Applied has this water inlet http://https://www.gmcrvparts.com/product-p/100553.htm. And this one has a built in pressure regulator. Then you will
still need to get the parts to connect it.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Matt, that link you posted is all screwed up. it redirects to HomeImprovement.com
--
Patti & Jerry Burt Fresno, CA.
73 Gmc 26' Canyon Lands
77 Palm Beach - Parts Coach - SOLD
Members: FMCA - GMCMI - GMCWS
A truly happy person is one who can enjoy the scenery on a detour.
 
Not meaning to sidetrack the post, but once you locate the source of the leak and fix it, the first thing I would do is get a regulator and ALWAYS use
it when hooking to city water. Most of them AFAIK are 40-50 lb, such as this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Pressure-Regulator-High-Pressure-40055/dp/B003BZD08U/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1MTAGNL0ZMWC6&dchild=1&keywords=rv+water+pressure+regulator+30+psi&qid=1597977138&sprefix=rv+water+pressure+%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-5

To me it's just peace of mind.
--
Chris S. -
77 Kingsley, 3.70 FD, mostly OEM -
S.E. Michigan
 
Found the leak at city connections. Check valve and gasket located on the back of the old connection failed. Ordered a new city connection from
Applied GMC and changed out the new assembly. Everything was working fine until I checked the water tank by filling with a garden hose. Another, "Well
Hell"!!! moment introduced itself by flooding the passenger side of camper. Got water dried up, unassembled the water tank and pump. Found the water
tank to have 3" crack on the bottom of tank from where the po's neglected to winterize the water system either by draining all the water out and!/or
adding antifreeze to the system and water tank. (Another - "Well Hell" moment!!!!)
Now with two "Well Hell" moments in one day, it was time to do some internet research in finding a new water tank. Found a tank out of Indiana for a
third of the price of an OEM type tank. Tank is in and ready to be tested along with testing the city water connection. Bought me a rain suit and a 12
pack of beer for the results of the tests. Either I experience rain like experience and end up drinking a 12 pack while conduct internet some more or
everything will work as supposed to work and I can sit and sip on the 12 pack and grill a nice T-bone steak. Wish me luck!!!!
--
Samuel Ferguson
Pittsfield, Illinois
(West Central Illinois)
1976 GMC Palm Beach
 
I had split pipes from PO not winterizing the system, replaced all the pipes with PEX. I have to find a tank also, where did you find yours in Indiana.

>
> Found the leak at city connections. Check valve and gasket located on the back of the old connection failed. Ordered a new city connection from
> Applied GMC and changed out the new assembly. Everything was working fine until I checked the water tank by filling with a garden hose. Another, "Well
> Hell"!!! moment introduced itself by flooding the passenger side of camper. Got water dried up, unassembled the water tank and pump. Found the water
> tank to have 3" crack on the bottom of tank from where the po's neglected to winterize the water system either by draining all the water out and!/or
> adding antifreeze to the system and water tank. (Another - "Well Hell" moment!!!!)
> Now with two "Well Hell" moments in one day, it was time to do some internet research in finding a new water tank. Found a tank out of Indiana for a
> third of the price of an OEM type tank. Tank is in and ready to be tested along with testing the city water connection. Bought me a rain suit and a 12
> pack of beer for the results of the tests. Either I experience rain like experience and end up drinking a 12 pack while conduct internet some more or
> everything will work as supposed to work and I can sit and sip on the 12 pack and grill a nice T-bone steak. Wish me luck!!!!
> --
> Samuel Ferguson
> Pittsfield, Illinois
> (West Central Illinois)
> 1976 GMC Palm Beach
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Current coach had a split outboard one - way valve. I took it out and capped the line. I fill the pumped tank.

--johnny

--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
GMCMI Fall 2026 Rally
Applied GMC

Share this page

Share this page
Top Bottom
Back