Brake bleeding--new MC and rear disks

Emery, I bet I’ve spent two hours trying to find those—in stores, online,
anywhere. Searching finds copper washers for flat bolt heads and banjo
bolts. I see flare gaskets, but those are sized for tubing flares and I’m
not sure they’ll fit.

If you know of something sized for M10x1.5 bleeder screws, I’m all ears.

Rick “thinking they’ll have to be replaced at every use” Denney

On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 1:25 PM Emery Stora via Gmclist <

> You should try using one of the small conical copper washers that go
> between the casting seat and the bleeder screw. It will deform to take up
> the imperfections in the casting to allow sealing.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick CO
>
> > On Sep 16, 2019, at 10:22 AM, Richard Denney via Gmclist <

> >
> > Thanks all for the final reassurances. The feel is different but it’s
> easy
> > to get used to it. I’ll test emergency stoping once the pads are broken
> in.
> >
> > Now, to that bleeder seep. The bleeder on one of the calipers is still
> > seeping enough to wet my finger, but not enough to drip. A new bleeder
> > screw didn’t resolve it, which I sort-of expected though for two bucks it
> > was an experiment worth trying. That also eliminated the possibility of
> > dirt in the bleeder seat.
> >
> > Is replacing the caliper the only alternative? I’m thinking that’s all I
> > can do—the caliper side of the bleeder seat must be the problem. I bought
> > the brake/reaction-rod kit nearly two years ago, and it came with Centric
> > calipers, so I think I’ll get a replacement from NAPA, which seems to
> have
> > a better reputation among the commonly available choices.
> >
> > Maybe when I have the wheels off again I’ll measure runout with my dial
> > indicator. Maybe not. :)
> >
> > Rick “whose projects never seem to get finished” Denney
> >
> > On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 11:50 AM Jim Kanomata via Gmclist <

> >
> >> It is standard to have the longer stroke when one has the 6 disc system.
> >> Shops that have experience installing them will tell you that it works
> >> better after you run it in.
> >> We know lot about that system as we sell all type of system and
> personally
> >> use them on my coach.
> >>
> > --
> > '73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
> > Northern Virginia
> > Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
'73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
 
They are commonly used in the refrigeration and air conditioning trades.
You might try there.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 11:48 AM Richard Denney via Gmclist <

> Emery, I bet I’ve spent two hours trying to find those—in stores, online,
> anywhere. Searching finds copper washers for flat bolt heads and banjo
> bolts. I see flare gaskets, but those are sized for tubing flares and I’m
> not sure they’ll fit.
>
> If you know of something sized for M10x1.5 bleeder screws, I’m all ears.
>
> Rick “thinking they’ll have to be replaced at every use” Denney
>
> On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 1:25 PM Emery Stora via Gmclist <

>
> > You should try using one of the small conical copper washers that go
> > between the casting seat and the bleeder screw. It will deform to take up
> > the imperfections in the casting to allow sealing.
> >
> > Emery Stora
> > 77 Kingsley
> > Frederick CO
> >
> > > On Sep 16, 2019, at 10:22 AM, Richard Denney via Gmclist <

> > >
> > > Thanks all for the final reassurances. The feel is different but it’s
> > easy
> > > to get used to it. I’ll test emergency stoping once the pads are broken
> > in.
> > >
> > > Now, to that bleeder seep. The bleeder on one of the calipers is still
> > > seeping enough to wet my finger, but not enough to drip. A new bleeder
> > > screw didn’t resolve it, which I sort-of expected though for two bucks
> it
> > > was an experiment worth trying. That also eliminated the possibility of
> > > dirt in the bleeder seat.
> > >
> > > Is replacing the caliper the only alternative? I’m thinking that’s all
> I
> > > can do—the caliper side of the bleeder seat must be the problem. I
> bought
> > > the brake/reaction-rod kit nearly two years ago, and it came with
> Centric
> > > calipers, so I think I’ll get a replacement from NAPA, which seems to
> > have
> > > a better reputation among the commonly available choices.
> > >
> > > Maybe when I have the wheels off again I’ll measure runout with my dial
> > > indicator. Maybe not. :)
> > >
> > > Rick “whose projects never seem to get finished” Denney
> > >
> > > On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 11:50 AM Jim Kanomata via Gmclist <

> > >
> > >> It is standard to have the longer stroke when one has the 6 disc
> system.
> > >> Shops that have experience installing them will tell you that it works
> > >> better after you run it in.
> > >> We know lot about that system as we sell all type of system and
> > personally
> > >> use them on my coach.
> > >>
> > > --
> > > '73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
> > > Northern Virginia
> > > Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> --
> '73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
> Northern Virginia
> Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Hi Rick, refrigeration supply houses, AC parts stores, or roll your own. Flare a 3/8 or 1/4" tube and cut off with a dermal. One should last thru
many bleeding. Copper will swell and soften if heated. Push come to shove put a bleeder upside down in a vise and find a short piece of copper the
size of the fluid hole and heat one end with propane torch and drive it down on bleeder to flare. Let it cool and cut flare off.

> Emery, I bet I've spent two hours trying to find those--in stores, online,
> anywhere. Searching finds copper washers for flat bolt heads and banjo
> bolts. I see flare gaskets, but those are sized for tubing flares and I'm
> not sure they'll fit.
>
> If you know of something sized for M10x1.5 bleeder screws, I'm all ears.
>
> Rick "thinking they'll have to be replaced at every use" Denney
>
> On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 1:25 PM Emery Stora via Gmclist <

>
> > You should try using one of the small conical copper washers that go
> > between the casting seat and the bleeder screw. It will deform to take up
> > the imperfections in the casting to allow sealing.
> >
> > Emery Stora
> > 77 Kingsley
> > Frederick CO
> >

> >>
> >> Thanks all for the final reassurances. The feel is different but it's
> > easy
> >> to get used to it. I'll test emergency stoping once the pads are broken
> > in.
> >>
> >> Now, to that bleeder seep. The bleeder on one of the calipers is still
> >> seeping enough to wet my finger, but not enough to drip. A new bleeder
> >> screw didn't resolve it, which I sort-of expected though for two bucks it
> >> was an experiment worth trying. That also eliminated the possibility of
> >> dirt in the bleeder seat.
> >>
> >> Is replacing the caliper the only alternative? I'm thinking that's all I
> >> can do--the caliper side of the bleeder seat must be the problem. I bought
> >> the brake/reaction-rod kit nearly two years ago, and it came with Centric
> >> calipers, so I think I'll get a replacement from NAPA, which seems to
> > have
> >> a better reputation among the commonly available choices.
> >>
> >> Maybe when I have the wheels off again I'll measure runout with my dial
> >> indicator. Maybe not. :)
> >>
> >> Rick "whose projects never seem to get finished" Denney
> >>

> >>
> >>> It is standard to have the longer stroke when one has the 6 disc system.
> >>> Shops that have experience installing them will tell you that it works
> >>> better after you run it in.
> >>> We know lot about that system as we sell all type of system and
> > personally
> >>> use them on my coach.
> >>>
> >> --
> >> '73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
> >> Northern Virginia
> >> Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> --
> '73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
> Northern Virginia
> Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
 
> I assume you tried checking the bleeder and the seats for debris or any sort of defect that would allow fluid to escape....
>
> If you have and that's not the issue, another option is they do make these conical copper washer like things that actually fit in the tapper on
> the brake fitting, though I've never actually used them on a bleeder, I have used them on brake lines, and I'd imagine they would work the same way
> on a bleeder....
>
> Backstory on the conical washers is a while back I'd bought some stainless braided brake lines from Goodridge, and I had leak issues... Called
> their customer service and they went and sent me a set of these washers and they solved the issue....
>
> They look similar to this:
>
> http://www.aektechnology.com/airdrome/AEK_Conical_1114.pdf

This was early in the thread - http://www.aektechnology.com
--
Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
 
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4452-flare-fitting-repair-with-copper-seal.html

Ken H.

On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 2:48 PM Richard Denney via Gmclist <

> Emery, I bet I’ve spent two hours trying to find those—in stores, online,
> anywhere. Searching finds copper washers for flat bolt heads and banjo
> bolts. I see flare gaskets, but those are sized for tubing flares and I’m
> not sure they’ll fit.
>
> If you know of something sized for M10x1.5 bleeder screws, I’m all ears.
>
> Rick “thinking they’ll have to be replaced at every use” Denney
>
> On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 1:25 PM Emery Stora via Gmclist <

>
> > You should try using one of the small conical copper washers that go
> > between the casting seat and the bleeder screw. It will deform to take up
> > the imperfections in the casting to allow sealing.
> >
> > Emery Stora
> > 77 Kingsley
> > Frederick CO
> >
> > > On Sep 16, 2019, at 10:22 AM, Richard Denney via Gmclist <

> > >
> > > Thanks all for the final reassurances. The feel is different but it’s
> > easy
> > > to get used to it. I’ll test emergency stoping once the pads are broken
> > in.
> > >
> > > Now, to that bleeder seep. The bleeder on one of the calipers is still
> > > seeping enough to wet my finger, but not enough to drip. A new bleeder
> > > screw didn’t resolve it, which I sort-of expected though for two bucks
> it
> > > was an experiment worth trying. That also eliminated the possibility of
> > > dirt in the bleeder seat.
> > >
> > > Is replacing the caliper the only alternative? I’m thinking that’s all
> I
> > > can do—the caliper side of the bleeder seat must be the problem. I
> bought
> > > the brake/reaction-rod kit nearly two years ago, and it came with
> Centric
> > > calipers, so I think I’ll get a replacement from NAPA, which seems to
> > have
> > > a better reputation among the commonly available choices.
> > >
> > > Maybe when I have the wheels off again I’ll measure runout with my dial
> > > indicator. Maybe not. :)
> > >
> > > Rick “whose projects never seem to get finished” Denney
> > >
> > > On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 11:50 AM Jim Kanomata via Gmclist <

> > >
> > >> It is standard to have the longer stroke when one has the 6 disc
> system.
> > >> Shops that have experience installing them will tell you that it works
> > >> better after you run it in.
> > >> We know lot about that system as we sell all type of system and
> > personally
> > >> use them on my coach.
> > >>
> > > --
> > > '73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
> > > Northern Virginia
> > > Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> --
> '73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
> Northern Virginia
> Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Rick
Try McMaster- Carr on the Internet. I believe they carry them

Emery Stora

>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4452-flare-fitting-repair-with-copper-seal.html
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 2:48 PM Richard Denney via Gmclist <

>
>> Emery, I bet I’ve spent two hours trying to find those—in stores, online,
>> anywhere. Searching finds copper washers for flat bolt heads and banjo
>> bolts. I see flare gaskets, but those are sized for tubing flares and I’m
>> not sure they’ll fit.
>>
>> If you know of something sized for M10x1.5 bleeder screws, I’m all ears.
>>
>> Rick “thinking they’ll have to be replaced at every use” Denney
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 1:25 PM Emery Stora via Gmclist <

>>
>>> You should try using one of the small conical copper washers that go
>>> between the casting seat and the bleeder screw. It will deform to take up
>>> the imperfections in the casting to allow sealing.
>>>
>>> Emery Stora
>>> 77 Kingsley
>>> Frederick CO
>>>
>>>> On Sep 16, 2019, at 10:22 AM, Richard Denney via Gmclist <

>>>>
>>>> Thanks all for the final reassurances. The feel is different but it’s
>>> easy
>>>> to get used to it. I’ll test emergency stoping once the pads are broken
>>> in.
>>>>
>>>> Now, to that bleeder seep. The bleeder on one of the calipers is still
>>>> seeping enough to wet my finger, but not enough to drip. A new bleeder
>>>> screw didn’t resolve it, which I sort-of expected though for two bucks
>> it
>>>> was an experiment worth trying. That also eliminated the possibility of
>>>> dirt in the bleeder seat.
>>>>
>>>> Is replacing the caliper the only alternative? I’m thinking that’s all
>> I
>>>> can do—the caliper side of the bleeder seat must be the problem. I
>> bought
>>>> the brake/reaction-rod kit nearly two years ago, and it came with
>> Centric
>>>> calipers, so I think I’ll get a replacement from NAPA, which seems to
>>> have
>>>> a better reputation among the commonly available choices.
>>>>
>>>> Maybe when I have the wheels off again I’ll measure runout with my dial
>>>> indicator. Maybe not. :)
>>>>
>>>> Rick “whose projects never seem to get finished” Denney
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 11:50 AM Jim Kanomata via Gmclist <

>>>>
>>>>> It is standard to have the longer stroke when one has the 6 disc
>> system.
>>>>> Shops that have experience installing them will tell you that it works
>>>>> better after you run it in.
>>>>> We know lot about that system as we sell all type of system and
>>> personally
>>>>> use them on my coach.
>>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> '73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
>>>> Northern Virginia
>>>> Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>
>> --
>> '73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
>> Northern Virginia
>> Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Emery, I have the McMaster app on my iPhone, I use so often. :)

But they didn’t have comical sealing washers. They DID have flat ones that
I think are the right size, and I bought a box. A bleeder screw will make
it conical, even if I have to use it as a die with a hammer behind it.

Rick “thinking a dead soft 6mm flat sealing washer will become conical
pretty easily” Denney

On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 9:28 PM Emery Stora via Gmclist <

> Rick
> Try McMaster- Carr on the Internet. I believe they carry them
>
>
> Emery Stora
>
> On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 2:48 PM Richard Denney via Gmclist <

> >
> >> Emery, I bet I’ve spent two hours trying to find those—in stores,
> online,
> >> anywhere. Searching finds copper washers for flat bolt heads and banjo
> >> bolts. I see flare gaskets, but those are sized for tubing flares and
> I’m
> >> not sure they’ll fit.
> >>
> >> If you know of something sized for M10x1.5 bleeder screws, I’m all ears.
> >>
> >> Rick “thinking they’ll have to be replaced at every use” Denney
> >>
> >> On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 1:25 PM Emery Stora via Gmclist <

> >>
> >>> You should try using one of the small conical copper washers that go
> >>> between the casting seat and the bleeder screw. It will deform to take
> up
> >>> the imperfections in the casting to allow sealing.
> >>>
> >>> Emery Stora
> >>> 77 Kingsley
> >>> Frederick CO
> >>>
>
--
'73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
 
OK, It took me a long time to find them but here is where I ordered them 10 years or so ago. I ordered a bunch of each size since they are so cheap.

Look at the last two items on this page. The pictures are swapped. You want the next to last item. Labeled "copper flare gasket"

https://portagespecialty.com/brass-flare-fittings

--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Figuring out the dimensions is no mean feat. HVAC tubing is nominal outside
diameter, I discovered, but finding the flare diameter is hard. Parker
wants my info and approval to supply a CAD drawing, but I found dimensions
here:

https://www.hydradynellc.com/images/document/FSC/3501E-N.pdf

I bought a package of 3/16 and another of 1/4 to have some choices. The 1/4
should be about the same as an M6 flat washer. But it has to fit down in
the hole—I doubt I could grind or file down the outside of that without
ruining it.

Rick “expected by Friday” Denney

On Tue, Sep 17, 2019 at 12:56 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist <

> You can also find them on ebay
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Flare+gasket+copper&_sacat=0
>
> The search term "Copper Flare Gasket" is what I used.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
'73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
 
I bought mine off the local Grainger store. They had to have them sent from the warehouse, none in stock at the time. I got the first five sizes
because I didn't know what size would fit my oozing oil cooler lines. They were cheaper'n vomit. Also, the Oil Cooler Line Guru, J.R. Slaten had a
complete kit of them in a plastic container. Might "'ast 'im" where he got it.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
 
I have to use them on my steering box because I cannot stop the drip from a line no matter how tight I make it. I even had a new line made (cost $65) and that didn’t help.

Emery Stora

>
> I bought mine off the local Grainger store. They had to have them sent from the warehouse, none in stock at the time. I got the first five sizes
> because I didn't know what size would fit my oozing oil cooler lines. They were cheaper'n vomit. Also, the Oil Cooler Line Guru, J.R. Slaten had a
> complete kit of them in a plastic container. Might "'ast 'im" where he got it.
>
> --johnny
> --
> Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Lanier Hydraulics made me a line that doesn't leak. $25 I believe, using my existing connectors - the ooze was on the line side of the connector.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
 
I ended up buying Parker 2GF-3 copper flare washers on eBay, and they were
the perfect size for brake bleeder seats.

I was also installing Performance Friction pads on the rear rear wheels.
Both bleeders on those calipers were seeping, so I put washers in both of
them. I think that addressed that.

But I was unable to fit the caliper with the PF pads over the rotor on the
starboard side, and the piston could not be retracted further by screwing
it in. I had to put the other pads back on. I truly hate parking-brake
calipers, but these are worse than most.

And my parking-brake cable is binding and won’t release fully. If I want
the mechanical parking brake to work, I’ll have to order new ones. Maybe
I’ll get around to that.

And my port-side leveling valve (the one I DIDN’T replace two years ago) is
leaking. Got a new one of those on order from JimK.

And my supplemental vacuum pump isn’t pulling much vacuum. Got a new one of
those on order, too. Expensive buggers, but this one claims to maintain
18”Hg at a minimum. The one I’m replacing only pulled 15” even when it was
working properly.

Anyway, I’ve posted an album about this year’s rear-disk-reaction-rod
project, which covers the many unexpected issues I had. I hope nobody looks
at my workarounds and tells me I’m doomed.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g7241-manny-brakes-installation.html

(Jim Hupy, I measured the runout of the rear rear rotors—.006 on one side,
more like .020 on the other. I’m not happy about it, but I don’t really
know what to do about it, either. About .005 bearing play on both side,
measured at the rim of the rotor. I should have gone with my first instinct
and not measured it.)

Rick “hoping this project is don’t for a while” Denney

On Tue, Sep 17, 2019 at 12:56 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist <

> You can also find them on ebay
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Flare+gasket+copper&_sacat=0
>
> The search term "Copper Flare Gasket" is what I used.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
'73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
 
Jeeez, Rick! What a lot of trouble you had. I thought my 1st production
run problems were a hassle, but they were very trivial compared to yours --
I hope. I HOPE, 'cause now I wonder whether I checked everything closely
enough. And after probably 50,000 miles, I'm afraid to go back and check!
:-)

By the way, looking at your combination valve mod, I'm hoping your next
project is new brake lines! :-(

Oh yeah, in the first photo, what's that sleek sorta boat-prow looking
thing on the right side?

Ken H.

On Sat, Sep 21, 2019 at 7:10 PM Richard Denney via Gmclist <

> I ended up buying Parker 2GF-3 copper flare washers on eBay, and they were
> the perfect size for brake bleeder seats.
>
> I was also installing Performance Friction pads on the rear rear wheels.
> Both bleeders on those calipers were seeping, so I put washers in both of
> them. I think that addressed that.
>
> But I was unable to fit the caliper with the PF pads over the rotor on the
> starboard side, and the piston could not be retracted further by screwing
> it in. I had to put the other pads back on. I truly hate parking-brake
> calipers, but these are worse than most.
>
> And my parking-brake cable is binding and won’t release fully. If I want
> the mechanical parking brake to work, I’ll have to order new ones. Maybe
> I’ll get around to that.
>
> And my port-side leveling valve (the one I DIDN’T replace two years ago) is
> leaking. Got a new one of those on order from JimK.
>
> And my supplemental vacuum pump isn’t pulling much vacuum. Got a new one of
> those on order, too. Expensive buggers, but this one claims to maintain
> 18”Hg at a minimum. The one I’m replacing only pulled 15” even when it was
> working properly.
>
> Anyway, I’ve posted an album about this year’s rear-disk-reaction-rod
> project, which covers the many unexpected issues I had. I hope nobody looks
> at my workarounds and tells me I’m doomed.
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g7241-manny-brakes-installation.html
>
> (Jim Hupy, I measured the runout of the rear rear rotors—.006 on one side,
> more like .020 on the other. I’m not happy about it, but I don’t really
> know what to do about it, either. About .005 bearing play on both side,
> measured at the rim of the rotor. I should have gone with my first instinct
> and not measured it.)
>
> Rick “hoping this project is don’t for a while” Denney
>
> On Tue, Sep 17, 2019 at 12:56 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist <

>
> > You can also find them on ebay
> >
> >
> >
> https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Flare+gasket+copper&_sacat=0
> >
> > The search term "Copper Flare Gasket" is what I used.
> > --
> > Ken Burton - N9KB
> > 76 Palm Beach
> > Hebron, Indiana
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> --
> '73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
> Northern Virginia
> Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Aaaaand, I still have a leaking bleeder, in the same caliper that would not
open enough to fit the Performance Friction pads. That’s it. I’m ordering
another caliper from NAPA.

This project just keeps on giving.

Rick “not happy” Denney

> I ended up buying Parker 2GF-3 copper flare washers on eBay, and they were
> the perfect size for brake bleeder seats. ...
>
--
'73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
 
In what I hope is the final installment, I am now happy. I bought a caliper
at NAPA, to get (at least) a different brand, and that caliper fell into
place very smoothly (I spent an hour installing it, including jacking the
coach up, removing the wheel, bleeding, etc. One trick I have used many
times with brake hoses in good condition—I use hose-pinching pliers to keep
the hydraulics upstream from the caliper sealed up. That keeps me from have
to bleed more than just the one caliper.

But I learned that gravity bleeding doesn’t get the air out. After all the
bubbles stopped during gravity bleeding, I still got plenty of bubbles when
I pumped the brakes. A bleeder bottle prevents air from being drawn in, so
I used JimH’s power bleeder to keep the master cylinder topped up, set up
my iPhone to video the fluid in the bleeder bottle, and then went inside
the coach and pumped the brakes. Lots of bubbles, pushed out by the extra
energy of the pumping. Pedal is high(ish) and firm.

I now think the other caliper was faulty—the parking brake didn’t want so
self-adjust and the caliper refused to retract. This one was as it should
be in that department. Plenty of room for the Performance Friction pads,
too, and then it self adjusted to keep the pads snug (or as snug as
possible given the rather generous runout in that rotor/hub combination.

Also, the bleeder seals tightly.

The pedal feels better, too.

Tomorrow, I will replace the left leveling valve, which is emptying
(through the exhaust port) the left bag in about half an hour. And I will
ponder replacing the parking-brake cables, which are just too old to move
smoothly to be fully retracted by the caliper spring. And I have a new
vacuum pump to install, too.

And then it’s time to do something with one of the pineblock derby kits
that I have. :)

Rick “who may have some Sky Blue in a spray can somewhere” Denney

> Aaaaand, I still have a leaking bleeder, in the same caliper that would
> not open enough to fit the Performance Friction pads. That’s it. I’m
> ordering another caliper from NAPA.
>
> This project just keeps on giving.
>
> Rick “not happy” Denney
>
--
'73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
 
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