Block & Crank prep

steven d. ferguson

New member
Aug 1, 1999
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Tom Wrote: NEVER use rags or paper towels of any kind on any engine
part to be rebuilt unless you want to risk engine failure.

Tom,
That's why I stated "lint free" rags and my use of them was to clean
honing contaminates out of the pores in the cylinder walls. They have a
mil spec and they are not cheap. I agree with you and should have
stated that that I have two solvent tanks. One for dirty parts and one
for final cleaning. I always use bore brushes to clean oil gallery
passages, block & crank. After I get a block back from the machine shop
I never spend less than 2-3 hours cleaning it, and whatever amount of
time it takes to deburr it. I also use scotch brite pads and clean
solvent to gently scrub the bearings prior to a final bath in laquer
thinner. All parts (except lifters) get the laquer thinner bath and
blow dry as a final cleaning.
Tom wrote: Putting the block or crank in the jet washer is a no no.
I agree, that's why I said pressure washer. Hand held with 3,000 psi
followed up with air. This is after final machine work and before the
crank or block leaves the shop. I clean it again in my "clean" solvent
tank after I get it home.
Tom wrote: Anyone know how to properly center the thrust bearing in the
block?
Yes.
Steve Ferguson
San Diego
 
Than maybe you can tell everyone how to properly center the thrust bearings
Steve. Lack of it is one of the biggest reasons for crank failure in
rebuilt engines

> Tom Wrote: NEVER use rags or paper towels of any kind on any engine
>part to be rebuilt unless you want to risk engine failure.
>
>Tom,
> That's why I stated "lint free" rags and my use of them was to clean
>honing contaminates out of the pores in the cylinder walls. They have a
>mil spec and they are not cheap. I agree with you and should have
>stated that that I have two solvent tanks. One for dirty parts and one
>for final cleaning. I always use bore brushes to clean oil gallery
>passages, block & crank. After I get a block back from the machine shop
>I never spend less than 2-3 hours cleaning it, and whatever amount of
>time it takes to deburr it. I also use scotch brite pads and clean
>solvent to gently scrub the bearings prior to a final bath in laquer
>thinner. All parts (except lifters) get the laquer thinner bath and
>blow dry as a final cleaning.
>Tom wrote: Putting the block or crank in the jet washer is a no no.
> I agree, that's why I said pressure washer. Hand held with 3,000 psi
>followed up with air. This is after final machine work and before the
>crank or block leaves the shop. I clean it again in my "clean" solvent
>tank after I get it home.
>Tom wrote: Anyone know how to properly center the thrust bearing in the
>block?
>Yes.
>Steve Ferguson
>San Diego
>
>
 
> Tom Wrote: NEVER use rags or paper towels of any kind on any engine
> part to be rebuilt unless you want to risk engine failure.
>
> Steve Ferguson
> San Diego

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I worked w/videotape machines in commercial TV broadcasting for many years.
The recommended lint free cloth to use when cleaning the heads (very
delicate & expensive) is baby diapers.
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