Batteries

Thigh19

New member
Aug 4, 2019
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0
1
Okay, probably been covered, but pretty sure my batteries are ready for replacement. Question first, i have 2 6 volt golf cart batteries back by the
generator, assuming house batteries.
Under the hood i have 2 large 12 volt batteries. Are these both engine batteries? Or is one a house battery?
I plan on a battery disconnect switch, or maybe a barrel switch cause something is drawing the batteries down that i cant find.
What is the recommendation for batteries?
We’re pulling out of town middle of next week, if that matters.
Thanx
Thom High
73 GMC Sequoia
Vancouver Washington 98682
 
The 2 in the back are house batteries, and one of the batteries in the
front is a general-purpose battery that is in the house circuit. The
battery closes to the engine is probably the chassis battery. Google the
battery model numbers to make sure which one is which. The big lead
positive from the chassis battery should go to the starter.
Last time I changed batteries I got the 12 volts batteries from Wallmart
and the golf cart batteries from Costco. I hear sams club is another place
to get batteries. I put knife switches in my battery circuits to prevent
discharge or I plug the coach in an let the charging system keep them hot.

On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 10:55 PM Thom High via Gmclist <

> Okay, probably been covered, but pretty sure my batteries are ready for
> replacement. Question first, i have 2 6 volt golf cart batteries back by the
> generator, assuming house batteries.
> Under the hood i have 2 large 12 volt batteries. Are these both engine
> batteries? Or is one a house battery?
> I plan on a battery disconnect switch, or maybe a barrel switch cause
> something is drawing the batteries down that i cant find.
> What is the recommendation for batteries?
> We’re pulling out of town middle of next week, if that matters.
> Thanx
> Thom High
> 73 GMC Sequoia
> Vancouver Washington 98682
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--

*John Phillips*
 
Keep the 2 6V house batteries in back series wired as one 12V battery. Up front run just one Group 78 battery. (If the GM side terminals have been
removed by PO you will need a dual or top post engine battery). Available with 850CCA and over 1000CA there is no reason to parallel 2 engine
batteries. Paralleling creates a hazard, shortens battery life, and presents an unnecessary constant load to alternator, even when they are fully
charged.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
> Keep the 2 6V house batteries in back series wired as one 12V battery. Up front run just one Group 78 battery. (If the GM side terminals have
> been removed by PO you will need a dual or top post engine battery). Available with 850CCA and over 1000CA there is no reason to parallel 2 engine
> batteries. Paralleling creates a hazard, shortens battery life, and presents an unnecessary constant load to alternator, even when they are fully
> charged.

So do i only need one battery up front?
 
On batteries, I tend to favor Wal-Mart. With 4400 stores in the US, you are almost near one, no matter how remote you travel. I have had one fail, no
questions asked, here's your replacement. Most Lead-Acid and Sealed Lead-Acid are made by Johnson Controls. labels are changed to suit the final
vendor.
If you decide to change to one of the various LI battery families, your current charger and alternator will not properly charge these batteries.
Entirely different charging voltages and cycles.
Tom, with SLA's from Sam's
--
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
 
The second battery up front could be paralleled to either your house batteries, or your chassis battery, depending on how it is hooked up. Unless you
do a lot of dry camping or you have a large solar charging system, I would do as John L suggests and just run the two GC-2s in the back for your house
and one 12v up front for your chassis.
--
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles,
Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
 
You really only need one engine battery up front. If it goes dead and won’t start your GMC that is what the boost switch is for — to allow you to start the engine from the rear house batteries.
Some people put a second 12 volt house battery up front and run it in parallel to the rear house batteries. It is never a good idea to put 12 volt batteries in parallel.
I replace the read 12 volt battery with two 6 volts batteries in series. This gives me more life for my house battery functions. I have owned by GMC since 1981. I put in the two six volt batteries in 1984 and I only have one 12 volt battery for the engine. This has served me well for almost 40 years and I use the GMC a lot.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

>

>> Keep the 2 6V house batteries in back series wired as one 12V battery. Up front run just one Group 78 battery. (If the GM side terminals have
>> been removed by PO you will need a dual or top post engine battery). Available with 850CCA and over 1000CA there is no reason to parallel 2 engine
>> batteries. Paralleling creates a hazard, shortens battery life, and presents an unnecessary constant load to alternator, even when they are fully
>> charged.
>
> So do i only need one battery up front?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
> On the subject of batteries: Why would I want to have the house batteries charged by the alternator? Every place this thing gets parked has shore
> power plus I have a very nice working generator (usually used for house AC when driving). From what I get from previous threads charging the house
> batteries with the alternator puts a lot of strain on the alternator so why do it if you don't have to? Anybody here delete that option?
>
> Cheers

Shane,

I believe you will find that no owner that has traveled much would ever think disabling that part of the original system.
Ego, that is a completely rash and invalid assumption. If that were the case, why have a house bank at all? My house battery does not start the APU.

Many of us dry camp or even boondock places that there is no shore power available. If the system is properly maintained, the main engine alternator
can accommodate that extra load with little difficulty.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
It’s a bonus to have house charged and ready while you drive. That way gen can easily be started and you have a backup plan. Really isn’t that
hard on alternator unless all batteries are depleated. Then the rate tapers anyway it’s a no brainer. The real improvements are smart converter
and adding a combiner to isolator. Everything is then automatic
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
More than likely, the second battery up front is set up to be a "Boost"
battery, and is totally independent from either the other engine battery,
or the 2ea 6 volt batteries in the generator compartment. It's only
function is to start the coach when all the other batteries are discharged.
You can determine that to be the case, by checking where the cables go. If
the + cable goes to the boost switch, that is what it is used for.
If, indeed it is in parallel with the engine battery, your best bet
would be to discontinue that practice. In certain cases parallel batteries
are not safe. Not to say that is your case, but it pays to check it out.
If you have a 12 volt D.C. to 120 Volt A.C. converter connected to your
house batteries, that is a likely cause of your battery drain, as is the 12
volt circuit for your refrigerator. That is enough to keep you busy hunting
drains for a while.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020, 10:18 AM Carl Stouffer via Gmclist <

> The second battery up front could be paralleled to either your house
> batteries, or your chassis battery, depending on how it is hooked up.
> Unless you
> do a lot of dry camping or you have a large solar charging system, I would
> do as John L suggests and just run the two GC-2s in the back for your house
> and one 12v up front for your chassis.
> --
> Carl Stouffer
> '75 ex Palm Beach
> Tucson, AZ.
> Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive,
> Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American
> Eagles,
> Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
You need the house battery upfront if you are going to use the house
battery to start the engine if the chassis battery fails. My coach has
about # 10 wire between the house banks and that is not enough to start an
engine from the rear house battery.

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 9:50 AM Thom High via Gmclist <

> > Keep the 2 6V house batteries in back series wired as one 12V battery.
> Up front run just one Group 78 battery. (If the GM side terminals have
> > been removed by PO you will need a dual or top post engine battery).
> Available with 850CCA and over 1000CA there is no reason to parallel 2
> engine
> > batteries. Paralleling creates a hazard, shortens battery life, and
> presents an unnecessary constant load to alternator, even when they are
> fully
> > charged.
>
> So do i only need one battery up front?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--

*John Phillips*
 
John
That is not necessarily true. My 1977 GMC has a much larger cable to the up front boost solenoid and is more than adequate to start my engine.
What year do you have? Perhaps a prior owner modified yours.
In addition to the large factory installed wire from the rear boost solenoid to the front solenoid, I added a #10 gauge wire to the front from the smart charger that I had installed a long time ago. That wire will charge the front battery from my Statpower charger but is not used for a boost. Are you sure that you don’t have a larger wire from the rear bank to the front bank?

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

>
> You need the house battery upfront if you are going to use the house
> battery to start the engine if the chassis battery fails. My coach has
> about # 10 wire between the house banks and that is not enough to start an
> engine from the rear house battery.
>
> On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 9:50 AM Thom High via Gmclist <

>

>>> Keep the 2 6V house batteries in back series wired as one 12V battery.
>> Up front run just one Group 78 battery. (If the GM side terminals have
>>> been removed by PO you will need a dual or top post engine battery).
>> Available with 850CCA and over 1000CA there is no reason to parallel 2
>> engine
>>> batteries. Paralleling creates a hazard, shortens battery life, and
>> presents an unnecessary constant load to alternator, even when they are
>> fully
>>> charged.
>>
>> So do i only need one battery up front?
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
>
> --
>
> *John Phillips*
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
The caveat with running lead-acid batteries in parallel is that they be
identical and the same age so their series resistance and open circuit
voltage will remain matched to each other - so if you replace one you
also replace the other. If they don't match then the charging voltage
and current is unbalanced between the two and one will discharge the
other when not being charged until they are both dead.

The engine battery and the house battery do not have to be identical as
the only time they are paralleled is during a 'low engine battery'
situation. Charging from the alternator is not a problem as the isolator
steers more current to the lower-voltage unit until they are
approximately balanced (disregarding the fact that the voltage regulator
only 'sees' the engine battery).

My Birchaven came with two living space batteries in parallel - one
obviously a 'factory' mount adjacent to the engine battery and another
under the driver's seat which was obviously a PO modification. I use one
or the other until I can replace both ($$$) at the same time. No room in
the rear generator compartment for a battery - and the genny is only
4KW.

As always, YMMV

Stu

> You really only need one engine battery up front. If it goes dead and
> won’t start your GMC that is what the boost switch is for — to allow
> you to start the engine from the rear house batteries.
> Some people put a second 12 volt house battery up front and run it in
> parallel to the rear house batteries. It is never a good idea to put
> 12 volt batteries in parallel.
> I replace the read 12 volt battery with two 6 volts batteries in
> series. This gives me more life for my house battery functions. I
> have owned by GMC since 1981. I put in the two six volt batteries in
> 1984 and I only have one 12 volt battery for the engine. This has
> served me well for almost 40 years and I use the GMC a lot.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
>
 
I have a 1975 Avion VIN A26000 built on a 1974 chassis. The leads to the
rear house batteries are #10 which are about 30 feet long. I do not think
the rear house batteries could start the engine without the front house
12-volt battery. The front house battery is a dual purpose battery, high
cranking amps that can start an engine and still do deep cycle.

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 12:24 PM Emery Stora via Gmclist <

> John
> That is not necessarily true. My 1977 GMC has a much larger cable to the
> up front boost solenoid and is more than adequate to start my engine.
> What year do you have? Perhaps a prior owner modified yours.
> In addition to the large factory installed wire from the rear boost
> solenoid to the front solenoid, I added a #10 gauge wire to the front from
> the smart charger that I had installed a long time ago. That wire will
> charge the front battery from my Statpower charger but is not used for a
> boost. Are you sure that you don’t have a larger wire from the rear bank
> to the front bank?
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
>
> > On Jun 24, 2020, at 12:19 PM, John Phillips via Gmclist <

> >
> > You need the house battery upfront if you are going to use the house
> > battery to start the engine if the chassis battery fails. My coach has
> > about # 10 wire between the house banks and that is not enough to start
> an
> > engine from the rear house battery.
> >
> > On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 9:50 AM Thom High via Gmclist <

> >

> >>> Keep the 2 6V house batteries in back series wired as one 12V battery.
> >> Up front run just one Group 78 battery. (If the GM side terminals have
> >>> been removed by PO you will need a dual or top post engine battery).
> >> Available with 850CCA and over 1000CA there is no reason to parallel 2
> >> engine
> >>> batteries. Paralleling creates a hazard, shortens battery life, and
> >> presents an unnecessary constant load to alternator, even when they are
> >> fully
> >>> charged.
> >>
> >> So do i only need one battery up front?
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >>
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > *John Phillips*
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--

*John Phillips*
 
I have this to say about lead acid batteries. Many, many, are very similar.
A wal-mart battery is likely made by Gould National or a similar
manufacturer. As are Auto Zone, Napa, etc.
When I went to General Motors Training, GM Delco Division still made
their batteries. Our instructor told us that the heavier the battery was,
the better it was. GM built their batteries with a higher fluid reserve
than many others. Also, their plates were attached by the shortest path
possible between cells, and they were suspended quite a ways from the
bottom of the battery case. Also as shock resistant to jarring, and
vibration as they could engineer them. They also were more expensive than
many others, which they attributed to using all virgin materials, not
recycled lead. I always thought they made a superior product. Don't know
about how they do it today.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020, 1:11 PM John Phillips via Gmclist <

> I have a 1975 Avion VIN A26000 built on a 1974 chassis. The leads to the
> rear house batteries are #10 which are about 30 feet long. I do not think
> the rear house batteries could start the engine without the front house
> 12-volt battery. The front house battery is a dual purpose battery, high
> cranking amps that can start an engine and still do deep cycle.
>
> On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 12:24 PM Emery Stora via Gmclist <

>
> > John
> > That is not necessarily true. My 1977 GMC has a much larger cable to the
> > up front boost solenoid and is more than adequate to start my engine.
> > What year do you have? Perhaps a prior owner modified yours.
> > In addition to the large factory installed wire from the rear boost
> > solenoid to the front solenoid, I added a #10 gauge wire to the front
> from
> > the smart charger that I had installed a long time ago. That wire will
> > charge the front battery from my Statpower charger but is not used for a
> > boost. Are you sure that you don’t have a larger wire from the rear bank
> > to the front bank?
> >
> > Emery Stora
> > 77 Kingsley
> > Frederick, CO
> >
> > > On Jun 24, 2020, at 12:19 PM, John Phillips via Gmclist <

> > >
> > > You need the house battery upfront if you are going to use the house
> > > battery to start the engine if the chassis battery fails. My coach has
> > > about # 10 wire between the house banks and that is not enough to start
> > an
> > > engine from the rear house battery.
> > >
> > > On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 9:50 AM Thom High via Gmclist <

> > >

> > >>> Keep the 2 6V house batteries in back series wired as one 12V
> battery.
> > >> Up front run just one Group 78 battery. (If the GM side terminals
> have
> > >>> been removed by PO you will need a dual or top post engine battery).
> > >> Available with 850CCA and over 1000CA there is no reason to parallel 2
> > >> engine
> > >>> batteries. Paralleling creates a hazard, shortens battery life, and
> > >> presents an unnecessary constant load to alternator, even when they
> are
> > >> fully
> > >>> charged.
> > >>
> > >> So do i only need one battery up front?
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> _______________________________________________
> > >> GMCnet mailing list
> > >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > >
> > > *John Phillips*
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
>
>
> --
>
> *John Phillips*
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
That wire is capable of handling coach battery charging only.

>
>
> I have a 1975 Avion VIN A26000 built on a 1974 chassis. The leads to the
> rear house batteries are #10 which are about 30 feet long. I do not think
> the rear house batteries could start the engine without the front house
> 12-volt battery. The front house battery is a dual purpose battery, high
> cranking amps that can start an engine and still do deep cycle.
>
> On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 12:24 PM Emery Stora via Gmclist <

>
> > John
> > That is not necessarily true. My 1977 GMC has a much larger cable to the
> > up front boost solenoid and is more than adequate to start my engine.
> > What year do you have? Perhaps a prior owner modified yours.
> > In addition to the large factory installed wire from the rear boost
> > solenoid to the front solenoid, I added a #10 gauge wire to the front from
> > the smart charger that I had installed a long time ago. That wire will
> > charge the front battery from my Statpower charger but is not used for a
> > boost. Are you sure that you don’t have a larger wire from the rear bank
> > to the front bank?
> >
> > Emery Stora
> > 77 Kingsley
> > Frederick, CO
> >
> > > On Jun 24, 2020, at 12:19 PM, John Phillips via Gmclist <

> > >
> > > You need the house battery upfront if you are going to use the house
> > > battery to start the engine if the chassis battery fails. My coach has
> > > about # 10 wire between the house banks and that is not enough to start
> > an
> > > engine from the rear house battery.
> > >
> > > On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 9:50 AM Thom High via Gmclist <

> > >

> > >>> Keep the 2 6V house batteries in back series wired as one 12V battery.
> > >> Up front run just one Group 78 battery. (If the GM side terminals have
> > >>> been removed by PO you will need a dual or top post engine battery).
> > >> Available with 850CCA and over 1000CA there is no reason to parallel 2
> > >> engine
> > >>> batteries. Paralleling creates a hazard, shortens battery life, and
> > >> presents an unnecessary constant load to alternator, even when they are
> > >> fully
> > >>> charged.
> > >>
> > >> So do i only need one battery up front?
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> _______________________________________________
> > >> GMCnet mailing list
> > >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > >
> > > *John Phillips*
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
>
>
> --
>
> *John Phillips*
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
On the TV show How Its Made and from other sources, here's what I think I
Know about "flooded lead acid " batteries.All USA bAttery manufacturers must use
A certain percentage of recycled lead in their process to promte lead recycling.
I guess that means a manufacturer could produce premium batteries using only
Virgin lead. They said there were at the time only 7 battery manufacturers in
The USA. Feel free to add more to this. I believe the Manufacturer the TV show wAS filmed at was EXIDE
Just what I thnk I know.
G
--
DAVE KING
lurker, wannabe
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
 
> Ok, summation questions: house batteries better in front or back or "a wash"?
> 2- 6v in series or one 12v or, again, either it don't matter?
>
> Thanks,
> Cheers

Shane,

I hope that the page long thing I just posted answers the first question.

Your second question really is two parts:
How do I get more capacity in a single bank?
* Simple answer - More lead or what ever.

Is it a good idea to parallel 12V jars for more capacity?
** Short answer is No.
There are two parts here.
If you get a pair of Grp 27(100AH) jars that came off the production line sequentially and connect them so that there is minimal difference in charge
and drain, you will still not likely see your 200Ah capacity. By the end of your first weekend the will have developed enough differentiation so one
is working harder than the other. This will cause a loss of bank capacity. There is nothing that can be done about this. If you push the life of
this arrangement, you also get close to the case where one cell in one jar fails and then one of then may have a thermal runaway. That later often
results in a small explosion.
Second part is that a pair of 200Ah 6V jars may have more capacity and will keep it because all the cells have to see the same charge and drain, but
if you loose one cell, you will have a system voltage loss that cannot be corrected with replacing the bank.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
The late Gary Bunzer had a very good article regarding battery configuration that I’ve saved in the photo site. This predates the inexpensive lithium batteries we can now use, but it’s an excellent discussion of battery placement

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/miscellaneous-stuff/p51618-balance-of-power-batteries-in-a-motorhome.html

Larry Davick
1976 Palm Beach
Fremont

>

>> Ok, summation questions: house batteries better in front or back or "a wash"?
>> 2- 6v in series or one 12v or, again, either it don't matter?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Cheers
>
> Shane,
>
> I hope that the page long thing I just posted answers the first question.
>
> Your second question really is two parts:
> How do I get more capacity in a single bank?
> * Simple answer - More lead or what ever.
>
> Is it a good idea to parallel 12V jars for more capacity?
> ** Short answer is No.
> There are two parts here.
> If you get a pair of Grp 27(100AH) jars that came off the production line sequentially and connect them so that there is minimal difference in charge
> and drain, you will still not likely see your 200Ah capacity. By the end of your first weekend the will have developed enough differentiation so one
> is working harder than the other. This will cause a loss of bank capacity. There is nothing that can be done about this. If you push the life of
> this arrangement, you also get close to the case where one cell in one jar fails and then one of then may have a thermal runaway. That later often
> results in a small explosion.
> Second part is that a pair of 200Ah 6V jars may have more capacity and will keep it because all the cells have to see the same charge and drain, but
> if you loose one cell, you will have a system voltage loss that cannot be corrected with replacing the bank.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
> On batteries, I tend to favor Wal-Mart. With 4400 stores in the US, you are almost near one, no matter how remote you travel. I have had one fail,
> no questions asked, here's your replacement. Most Lead-Acid and Sealed Lead-Acid are made by Johnson Controls. labels are changed to suit the final
> vendor.
> If you decide to change to one of the various LI battery families, your current charger and alternator will not properly charge these batteries.
> Entirely different charging voltages and cycles.
> Tom, with SLA's from Sam's

I like your thinking on the Walmart.
So which Walmart battery do you recommend?