> Matt, gonna have to read that a couple times plus that line Larry D provided.
> In the meantime, it sounds like two improvements that you suggest are: upgrade to true 10awg cable front to back and go to twin belt alternator
> set up. This right? Also, you don't specifically say but it sounds like you prefer 2 - 6v series in the back, yes? Thanks for all the input, very
> useful stuff.
>
> Cheers,
> Shane
Shane,
Virtually everything is a compromise, but your understanding would seem to be correct if you plan to use our coach as a stand-alone.
So much about these coaches is use/user dependent that some areas are difficult to optimize.
If you plan to upgrade the front to back cable don't bother with just upgrading to a #10AWG as that still will not get you much more and the frame
side is also a voltage loss. To really make it work, you need to do the double run of something like #6 or even #4 cable. As I often told owners
when working on a proposal, the best thing about copper is you only have to buy it once, if you don't, you may have to pay for it for ever. With the
upgrade to house bank link, the double sheave may be worth your while as you may then be able to load the alternator enough to cause belt load issues.
One problem with a pair of 12V jars is that you will be hard pressed to ever get capacity times two out of them. Just the cantankerous nature of the
beasts to not want to play nice like that. There is also the issue that if a cell in one fails, you can cut that jar out of the bank and live with
the lower capacity. That is only if you catch the bad cell before it does other damage.
If you go the pair of 6V route, and you loose a cell, you are stuck with a 10V system until you can replace them. You should still replace the pair.
If those are not answers to your questions, I am here a lot and don't mind trying again.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> In the meantime, it sounds like two improvements that you suggest are: upgrade to true 10awg cable front to back and go to twin belt alternator
> set up. This right? Also, you don't specifically say but it sounds like you prefer 2 - 6v series in the back, yes? Thanks for all the input, very
> useful stuff.
>
> Cheers,
> Shane
Shane,
Virtually everything is a compromise, but your understanding would seem to be correct if you plan to use our coach as a stand-alone.
So much about these coaches is use/user dependent that some areas are difficult to optimize.
If you plan to upgrade the front to back cable don't bother with just upgrading to a #10AWG as that still will not get you much more and the frame
side is also a voltage loss. To really make it work, you need to do the double run of something like #6 or even #4 cable. As I often told owners
when working on a proposal, the best thing about copper is you only have to buy it once, if you don't, you may have to pay for it for ever. With the
upgrade to house bank link, the double sheave may be worth your while as you may then be able to load the alternator enough to cause belt load issues.
One problem with a pair of 12V jars is that you will be hard pressed to ever get capacity times two out of them. Just the cantankerous nature of the
beasts to not want to play nice like that. There is also the issue that if a cell in one fails, you can cut that jar out of the bank and live with
the lower capacity. That is only if you catch the bad cell before it does other damage.
If you go the pair of 6V route, and you loose a cell, you are stuck with a 10V system until you can replace them. You should still replace the pair.
If those are not answers to your questions, I am here a lot and don't mind trying again.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
